altezzaclub

Found it- I knew I had it in Altezzaclub somewhere.. G1 - 1998 - 2001 3SGE 6MT G2 - 1998 - 2001 3SGE 5AT G3 - 2001 - 2005 3SGE 6MT G4 - 2001 - 2005 3SGE 5AT So not engine age only, also gearbox type. The auto & manual motors have differences or the manual to rev better. That's a pretty average price for the setup, it will make a great KE70. Check out Altezzaclub if you need odd parts.

Take the head off and strip it. Have the valves ground (or do them yourself) and skim the head 10-20thou. Port the head out to the diameter of the one-piece manifold gasket and have your inlet manifold made to that diameter. Just let the ports smoothly return to stock diameter as they curve around the valve guide, unless you really want to get into stage two mods. Get a cam cut to 275-280deg duration. You won't need 2" exhaust pipe, inch & 3/4 will do. Put a big resonator in it and some sports rear muffler but not a hot dog. I used 2" pipe to the 2" resonator, then inch & 3/4 to the rear. Fit an electric fan. The linkage will be easy, but you will need a choke setup I expect. (no pump jets...) Check out The Girls KE70 in my sig if you haven't already. Those were all simple mods we did that made it nicely quicker without making it a dog to drive in traffic.

nice- It should have G1 or G2 or similar in yellow on the cambelt cover below the head. That will tell you how old it is. (two generations of Altezza motors) Did you get all the loomb, wiring, computer, alty, aircon with it? or will it be carbs and an aftermarket tuneable ECU? How much did you pay for the motor? Got the 6-speed too??

Spend money- Check that the KE15 d'shaft fits in the K50 g'box properly. Otherwise see if a KE70 g'box front yoke will fit your d'shaft., but expect the length to be wrong. If so, measure exactly how many mm long it needs to be and give it all to a driveshaft shop. They might have to cut the whole KE15 yoke off at the right length and weld on a KE70 one. Mine cost $225 or so to shorten 8mm.

There's topic about this within the last two weeks somewhere. Are you going to run a heat shield between exhaust and carbs? Don't forget your manifold will need ports for the dizzy vac, the charcoal canister, the brake booster and the PCV valve. Have you taken a walk around a wrecker looking for air boxes? I haven't done it, but maybe next year if I get some free time.

Nice bit of home engineering there! Do you think here is a downside of running an oil cooler? Extra drag on the flow resulting in less flow or pressure? Can you get a larger oil pump if needed? The rear bumper is nice, we're going to do the same with the rally car. It improved the look of the Celcia a lot.

Don't spend a dollar over $1000. They are 40-50yr old cheaply built pieces of shit that were worth sweet fkall when new. These are not Datsun 280Zs or Porche 911s we are talking about, these are mass-produced cheap runarounds from a country that was the newest on the car scene, just like China is today. Spend time, not money. If it takes 6months to find that unmolested granny-spec one you actually buy from a granny, that is great. Be prepared to travel. Steve and I decided to rally a KE70 after he wrote off the Celica in about March this year. Within 4months he had about 6 KE70s of various conditions, including two immaculate ones. One did literally come from a little old lady who bought it new! Leave a note on any you like, or find out who owns it and write to them. My immaculate KE70 XX came just that way... I left a note on a car in the street in some small town we were driving through. $3000??!! You'd be a sucker!

Why not have it under the accelerator? Just hit it hard enough and it comes straight on.

Ah, one great advantage you have over us... we have an accelerator, a brake booster, a brake master cyl, a steering column and a clutch m'cyl all crammed in there on your passenger's side...

yes Yes! Oh God Yes! Put it on the front roll bar at the w'screen, not back inside the car, or even outside on the B pillar. All too often you can't really see the road from the main hoop and then occasionally along comes a great video with the camera somewhere else.

The best way to go 100kph on a hot day is with no fan at all, so there are other problems in your cooling system. The fan and shroud only get in the way of airflow and make the radiator less efficient at speed. However when sitting in traffic or crawling along they are only way to get the radiator cooled, so they are a vital compromise. KE70s have a conical plastic shroud as stock on the slantys, you can probably find one of those. I think they came out with the silicon-clutch fans (the thermo-fan) so you should be able to find one. Otherwise make one up like Jamie said, but make it conical to come back to the fan blades. My '83 slanty had the thermo fan and the shroud & my '83 flat-front had a solid fan and no shroud. I fitted an electric fan to the slanty and moved its thermofan to the flat-front as that had a worn waterpump when I bought it. The slanty is modded with cam and everything , yet never runs hot and the fan only comes on after sitting and idling for 5minutes or more. The thermo-switch I bought is a 90deg one. The dead stock flatfront runs warm all the time and you can see the temp go up in the hills. The difference is that although I've had both heads off, I took the motor out of the slanty and cleaned all the rust and scale out of the water-jackets in the block. It was bridging the cylinders in places and I was surprised how much was in there. So, as Rian said, you need to make sure the rest of the cooling system is as good as new before buying a new rad and finding it makes no difference. Along with checking the pump and the t'stat, try some radiator flush stuff and hose the block out with the pump and t'stat housing off. That's the best compromise I can think of rather than pulling out the motor and cleaning the water jackets out properly.

Pull the stocking out after a week and bin it. Its done its work by then. What valve train are you swapping?? If its a 3K you just get a 3K head to replace yours. Only if you swap to a 4K or 5K head on your 3K motor will it be a problem. You re-use all your valve gear, pushrods, rockers etc and adjust the tappets to suit. Is that head of yours really useless? Have you had it looked at by a head shop?

Hey hey- Not so fast! We expect results, action photos and details of dramas! Topics can only be started, not finished! Damm, that looks nice!

No seat belt for the driver and a big spike sticking out of the steering wheel centre... Of course there will! They will put speakers under the bonnet to broadcast the right noise! ..and the safety car will still come out within the last 5 laps! ....anyway, Tander 'nearly won' in complete silence yesterday! Just how bad would he feel, same as Whincup at Bathurst.

Ah, all that work... Still in a KE70?? Can you transfer stuff across?

Absolutely! Don't take the pistons out, but get the waterways scraped out and the crankcase cleaned as much as you can. Pop the oil pump out and check it, and strip the oil filter housing and clean it, including the relief valve. I would epoxy-fill that corrosion at the back of the block, just to support the head gasket. Put a suitable bolt or dowel to plug the hole, epoxy around where it has corroded away then sand it back flat. As you noticed, the water holes near the front are not used, so water is forced to circulate through the back of the block, the furthest from the pump. You can do a lot that takes time but not money and makes it trouble-free in the future. When it all goes back together, put a lady's stocking across the top radiator pipe and put the hose over that. It will filter out the crap dislodged for the first few weeks that would otherwise block the core tubes of your newly cleaned radiator.

Moare awsome slides!

They have interested me for a long time. Keihins and Mikunis.. There are different models within the range too. You get one carb throat per cylinder, like twin Webers, and they have a "demand-regulated' slide like SU carbs. They have rubber diaphrams in them to do this, like Solexes but unlike the SU's mechanical vacuum slide. The rubbers wear and perish, so need replacing at some time. Hunt around for the prices of a rebuild kit, you can expect to need one. I assume they don't have pump jets, also like an SU, so will have a different feel when you boot them, and seeing they run needles instead of fixed jets you can reshape the needles to get the mixtures you want. I did that for the SU's in The Girl's KE70, take a read of it from my sig below. I'd expect bike carbs to be a lot cheaper to run that DCOEs. You'll have to make the inlet manifold, a plate of steel cut to suit the head and 4 exhaust tube curves welded onto it. Then four rubber hoses to clamp the carbs on at the right angle, they point upwards quite steeply. The fuel bowl seam should be horizontal. Air cleaners next, the original setup from the bike would be nice, but that would take just as much fabrication to fit as making up something completely new. I think they run quite low fuel pressures, so you will need a pressure restrictor in the pump line. I use a $50 adjustable one on the SU's, they run anywhere from 1psi to 3 with no noticeable difference. A vacuum line for the dizzy, another for the brake booster, two lines for the 4K PCV system, one into the manifold and one into the air cleaner box. The throttle setup witll need making from scratch I expect. It would take a while, well, a month or two for me to do it, but I'd do it all myself and would sort tuning and everything. Anything custom like this costs a fortune when you take it to a mechanic, most of them can only change stock part for stock part. Jono, what were the hard parts of your conversion? Have you got it written up somewhere? Supporting mods? Well, to make them work you'll need extractors and a free-flow exhaust, a cam grind, porting the head and skimming for more compression. That would be the minimum to make it worthwhile, you can do more over time and end up like Filfrederick with his twincam 4K! If your bottom end is still strong then its all head work, otherwise start on the carbs using a spare head and swap it over when you are ready to rebore and rebuild everything. Here's a couple of pictures from my "awaiting projects" file... dreams for the future! The red car is Tommy's, the 'car of the year' on here. You can see they made a whole inlet plate that bolts onto the head, then the exhaust manifold bolts onto that again. The other motor has the carbs set too steeply, they are bolted onto a Weber DCOE manifold by the look of it..

Definately a nice clean car! I also haven't heard that one cracked head leads to another.. The chances are high the head is not cracked at all, but you need to find out why the motor overheated and warped the head. If you find a new thermostat in there its a clue, or a new water pump, or either of those items ruined. Does the rad leak at all? If everything checks out OK then maybe it is just blocked up. We lifted the motor out to do head work, but while I had the block out I tipped it on its side and cleaned out piles and piles of rust scale from the waterways. We've never had it heat up since then. Too many people didn't use antifreeze. Take a look through here- You might want to include other odd mods while you have the head off, and make sure you get a one-piece manifold gasket. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/

Can they still get synchros for it?? Let us know the details and the damage when you get it back.

Take a look through what we did- All simple mods and not expensive. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/

Yeah, if you've replaced the points/coil/condensor/plugs/leads/rotor/cap.... that's pretty well all the ignition system. A dropping voltage feeding that could be the problem, although the motor only draws a couple of amps. Certainly the rear demister shouldn't bring on the charge light and that extra missing with it on suggests a voltage problem. What does it start like?? Voltage supplied to the coil would be low with the starter cranking.

I don't know, I've haven't kept track of that. I think it happened the other night (after a couple of months being fine) because we parked it on a steep sideways slope, passenger side down. Yep, both KE70s in the garage do, both being '83s but one is a flatfront XX and one a slanty CS. The return line comes off the pressure side of the pump and when the car is running it returns fuel to the tank.. well, at idle anyway!

The Girl said her blue beast does "over 140", which astounded me a bit. I never knew she drove that fast (no parent ever does!) and I've never had it over about 115 or 120, it feels fine at those speeds.

It does hiss, but I can't tell if its pressure or vacuum in the tank. The Girls KE70 has no problems like this, and it also hisses when you take the cap off the tank. Do the tanks go under partial vacuum when running?? so the tank sucks the fuel back along the line? or are they pressurised by the return line from the pump?? Possibly in the charcoal filter line. Watch your filter after you turn the car off and see if fuel gets pushed back by the pump. Once mine is running its fine, its not a blockage causing it I don't think. The fact that bubbles come back into the filter is interesting, if they were vapourised petrol you would expect them to collapse when they meet cooler liquid fuel. Well, I wondered if its not a stock unit and not designed for the car. Maybe the inlet valve is not sealing correctly and letting fuel leak backwards That would also explain why it can't suck fuel very well when there is air in the suction chamber. Well, I knew that, but that's part of wondering if this is a stock pump. Did they find the "best fit" pump that runs OK but doesn't have any insulation... nah, just paranoia! Yep- OK, I'll pop the pump off sometime and check it out carefully. Then I'll just check the lines to the tank and make sure the tank can breathe OK. Maybe change the filter, run it w/o a cap on the tank for a while.... But first I have to get the wife's SSS N14 running, it just died last week and there are no engine codes showing up on the SR20!