altezzaclub

Maybe scratch the bore if it ended up sitting on the top ring, but most likely it just went out through the exhaust valve. Look at the race cars that don't run air filters at all. I figure the wind speed is pretty hectic in the chamber, especially when driving... Blow anything away.

X2 You're past a Skyline diff too I think. You really need a diff out of a car with similar grunt, or a truck that hauls real weight... Start with a Hilux.

The RA40 rally car twisted an axle in the T-series, using the stock 18RG 2litre. That was the welded diff I reckon, it throws a lot more stress on the axles. Both had quite worn splines too. I'd say start with a T-series from a Celcia or similar as it bolts straight in, and if you do break it you at least have time to start preparing something bigger. The F will need mounts welding onto it I think, the Skyline will need shortening and mounts, as will the ultimate, the Hilux.

Offer $700 for the unrestored one on Gumtree. At least when you finish it you will know all about it and just how good it is. I can't see a KE15 being worth more than $2000, unless it was most amazing restoration to dead standard. Same with some of these guys selling $1000 Ke70s and thinking they are worth three or four grand.. They are still lying around in back yards for a few hundred dollars, or you can buy them from their elderly lady owners for under a grand.. Still, in the end they are worth what someone is willing to pay. I will say it always pays to make an offer, no matter how low, as sooner or later the car must get sold.

Leen made such a complicated solution! Nice engineering, but complicated. Niteparts- one 14mm alloy adapter plate, 4AGE on one side, J160 6-speed on the other. I'll show you how it goes when we fit it all in January.

Ok, so its going to cost you $435 plus freight. I've just ph'd Tighe's and they said $240 for the cam, $140 for the springs. So that's $380 plus freight, about $40 internally and $50 overseas, so $470 odd. More than I was expecting. I'd go for the T125, the hotter cams are fine on a race-track with close-ratio gearboxes, but you will have to pull from 3000rpm with a stock box.

They used to be around for Datsun Stanzas, they were quite sqare in outline so might suit the KE70 box look. Datsun guys or the rally crowd must still have the molds.

hmmm.... very nice... If someone runs up the back of the wife's Pulsar SSS... So many projects, so little time in life.

I hate to think what it cost, but it is sooo good to watch!!

..because you will have to do everything you would normally do to mod a motor before you turbo it... Two questions you must answer first- How big is your budget?? How much engine stripping and building can you do yourself? The answers there will determine how much power you can afford. There is stacks on this site about getting more power, it is all very obvious and typical of old motors. Better carbs, cam grind, head work, extractors and sports exhaust is the basics. Then rebore out to 5K pistons, lightened flywheel, crank balance, other things to gain the next step.

Why IRS Jamie? From what I learned rallying a Datsun 510, the IRS rear end has more grip than a live rear axle, although that was on gravel. Drifting hadn't been invented then, we were doing all the drifting there was! So do drifters nowadays want lots of grip in the rear or less grip in the rear. I find it a strange pastime, you can't measure success by who is fastest like racing. I think I could slide a KE70 rear end easier than a Datsun 1600, and easiest would be leaf springs, but maybe that's not what they're looking for...

So, doesnt use oil (or water) ... how much fuel does it use? Fill the tank right up, set the tripmeter to zero and drive it as usual to the last 10L or so. gas it right up again and work out litres/100Km. Should be around 8 or 9L/100. I'm wondering if its running rich all the time, and especially so at startup. What carbs?? using a choke? pumping the gas to get it to fire? The sooty bit at startup should be normal, it is cold so not burning efficiently, and also rich from the choke at the same time. The cold plugs won't be helping matters, but its not worth changing them if it runs smoothly. Depends how bad the soot is.

From Bosch http://apps.bosch.com.au/AAExtranet_TechSearch/docs/GeneralInformation/FrequentlyAskedQuestions.pdf Q. What is the difference between SU12 and SU12R and GT40 and GT40R? A. The ignition coils with the R suffix are designed to be used in conjunction with a Ballast resistor usually around 1.8 ohms in value. This provides current limiting for the coil. The non R suffixed coils operate on 12 Volts directly. Q. Can I use a GT40RT or similar coil on my electronic ignition system? A. No, not as a general rule. The coil is designed to operate in a contact breaker points system. These coils have a high back voltage. This high voltage can stress the driver transistor on some electronic modules. Bosch EK conversion kits are designed to handle this voltage. • Q. Can I use an electronic coil in a vehicle with points? A. No. Electronic coils have very low primary resistance around 0.4 ohms. This will cause very high current (28A) to flow through the points and associated wiring causing damage. Electronic coils require an electronic control module to control coil primary current and dwell time. Gav knows more about this than me, I just hooked the electronic dizzy up to my stock factory coil and used the ballast as normal. Maybe I'm about to blow the electronics up... This will add to the general confusion... http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42941-how-to-wire-a-5k-electronic-distributor/

damm smart! Lucky it was before the 'gross-ugly-plastic-bumper' age....

yes, igniter is there- Brown goes to coil -ve Black/white goes to ballast, ignition key side. writeup about it here- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/page__st__45 and more research ehre- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/49927-how-to-fix-your-brand-new-ke-motorsport-electronic-distributor/page__pid__511594#entry511594 good luck!

well, lots to do now- Yes, Kent are in the UK, world-famous cams for many decades. Email them & see what they say. You can get the cam followers machined at a local cam shop.

OK- Things that wear out most often are points, condensor, plugs. Less often (last for years and years), rotor, dizzy cap, leads, coil and ballast resistor. Points, did you set the gap with feeler gauges? Did you set the timing with a timing light? Did you replace the condensor as well? Did you check the gaps on the new plugs? If those are setup well then I would've measured the resistance of the leads, changed them if they weren't the same. Then cleaned the dizzy cap, scraped off the oxidation on the electrodes inside, and sprayed it with CRC or WD40. Cleaned the rotor and sanded the tip clean. Which leaves the coil and ballast resistor, and the only way I can think of testing them is to replace them. I'd do the coil first, the ballasts are pretty trouble-free. After that you find you were barking up the wrong tree completely, and the possum is in the carb! It depends on what sort of miss it is, but an electrical one is usually one cylinder at a time, a carb one is all cylinders momentarily. Maybe it goes lean when you boot it and it dies for a few milliseconds, just from dirt in the accelerator pump jet.. Try the coil next!

OK, I might be able to get Richo to shoot a spare cam off before Xmas. We could get the same cut that Tighe did for him, I'll put the specs up here when he sends them to me. That was a 3K motor with the cylinders bored to 5K pistons and a 4K head ported and skimmed on it. It runs a single 40mm DCOE Weber and extractors with a 2" exhaust. You could just as eaily work with Kent in the UK, or Auckland Cams in NZ, they will mail all around the world. Take a look at these specs and then chase them for prices & convert them in Euros. These are the upper mid-range cams of each company, they make hotter race cams and milder road cams than these. You should get a set of followers ground afresh too, so the new cam surface is running on a new follower surface. If you go over 0.4" lift (10.2mm) then the valve springs will battle, so you need springs that compress more without binding. I'm not sure exactly how much stock springs will compress without problems, cam grinders say the limit is 0.4". Richo bought Tighe's springs to suit, probably just the Holden springs everyone gets. I'd suggest anything with an advertised duration between 280 and 290deg. After that lift makes the big difference, so if there are two cams to pick from, get the higher lift. I'll leave price choices up to you.... Once I have Richard's cam spces I'll get a price fromTighe & let you know what his setup cost. OK, his has max valve lift of 0.46" (11.7mm) Duration is 296 at 10thou tappet gap & 240deg at 50thou. Lobe separation is 106deg. Its basically a 150A cut with different opening and closing times. 37-80 for the inlet, 67-50 for the exhaust. richard didn't order a catalogue cam, they said "send us what the motor has and we'll cut something for you.."

You'll find the carbs will go rich as soon as you boot it. The SUs use the dashpot on top with a piston running in oil to momentarily hold the slide down, so the increasing air velocity over the venturi richens it. A fraction of a second later the piston has pushed its way up through the oil and the air velocity is back at what it should be, and the needle taper controls the fuel richness then. I'm sure the bike carbs will have something similar. It should run around town at 12-14 as you move around in traffic, but once on the open road it should cruise lean, down at 16. Accelerating gives momentary richness then it leans back, and slowly pushing your foot down to go uphill should sit it at 14.7. So, now you'll take the sump off, then check the bearings, lighten the flywheel and before you know it you'll be rebuilding the engine! I'm going up to Woolshed Rallying next weekend, and I'll bring a cam back with me at Xmas. Sadly I won't be able to get it cut until early January as everything will be shut for the Christmas break.

we think you're mad! but you're doing a great job! I like the soundproofing, old cars are terribly noisy compared to new ones. What product is it and what was it worth? I've made sure the boot & bonnet on both my KE70s have the frame well glued to the panel, they often give up, and the blue car has a modern inulation blanket on the underside. It all helps... For oil I'd use a full synthetic 15W-40 for the turbo heat, but other guys on here run turbos an they will know.

Can't be hard to finish!! I've had a SSS for a few years now, bought for my son and he donated it back when he bought something new. They are lovely car, very toquey and smooth, and surprising grip in the nose considering the usual FWD understeer. The rear hatch rattles like shit now I think about it, but other that that they are roomy, smooth and easy-to-drive. Ive always said that the moment someone runs up the rear of it I'm putting the motor in a KE70! They take about 4 haybales and a few bits... If you have had the clutch off the motor, the problem will simply be that you haven't got the plate right in the middle of the flywheel. If its a mm or more out the gearbox spline can't slide in.

nah, can't get one cheaper in Orange Anyway, flywheel is unmarked, pressure plate is fine, thrust bearing fine, clutch plate just over 1/2 worn.. except one spring steel section within the clutch plate has broken and a piece is sticking out, so it catches on the pressure plate when they move at different speeds. Only a few scratches really, and all fresh. So, new clutch plate needed, and I expect that I can only buy a kit. I'll go and see after lunch..

OK, thanks Jono, I'll chase a few more prices. The cable was first, the leaking sump gasket had rotted the rubber bung in the clutch cable fork, which is why it suddenly had excess travel and no clutch throw. That got replaced by a cut-down sway bar rubber, but the shudder is still there in 1st. I'd bettr go and crawl underneath and get dirty...

Well, yesterday the wife had the blue car at work and The Girl had the Altezza. Wife turns up and says it wouldn't go into first gear so she turned it off, started it in 1st and drove it home w/o a clutch. The cable suddenly had a lot of slack, but when I took that up with a spacer and drove it there wa a horrific clutch shudder. So I think the pressure plate has collapsed, something I'll have to do today. I popped on here to see when we fitted it, back at the end of 2008, that's 6 years on a clutch she learnt to drive on. Damm price has gone up, from $95 then to $115 the shop quoted!! I'm amazed they have one in stock!

So it was a combination of factors? Those plugs look average, with unleaded fuel they are always black & sooty around the outside rim and only the ceramic core shows any colour. having the fused ceramic build up on the side arm is what kills them I think, it will cover the spot where the spark jumps to.