altezzaclub

I think a lot of these rear main seals are more to do with the groove worn in the crankshaft rather than any sealing aound the outside edge on the block. So replacing the seal does almost nothing as a faintly worn seal stops sealing. The 345K is suffering he same problem, and I think it might be blowby that is exacerbating it, a hone that doesn't match the chrome rings well. I know the crank had a groove worn in it... What was the blue goo called for measuring piston/head clearance? That looks a great idea.

The Torana XU-1 ran 36chokes with 150 mains and 190 air, so yours would be leaner if anything, but they are big chokes to run. The bottom end of the rev range might struggle. There is a Ford 122E full race motor listed with twin DCOEs on 36 chokes, they run 135mains and 160airs, so that would stay rich. The Lotus Cortina/Elan ran 36chokes too, with 140 and 160jets. I think the chokes will be far too big for a non-racing motor, even a single DCOE with those parts would run a 2L. Try what you have but expect to go down in choke sizes & jets to something like Corollaarts.

On the lower radiator hose as it goes into the block. A pain, the 4A motors are unusual in having the thermostat on the lower hose and not on the upper one at the head.

Yes, but not related to the stalling I think. it will wear the motor faster. Pop it out and put it in a pan of water and boil it. You should see it open right up and close as it cools. It may be working but your sensor or gauge might be not working so you can't see it reading. Check the t'stat, check the gauge by shorting it out, & check the sensor with a multimeter to read the ohms resistance in it. cheers

Unlikely... You could disconnect it and try. I hooked a mixture display up to our SR20 recently and found the oxy sensor wasn't working at all. A new sensor read correctly but didn't change the performance of the motor in any noticeable way. Check around the inlet gasket for leaks with an aerosol of 'engine start' or some oil, or listen with a plastic hose in one ear. That would be important to sort out, but a pain if you had to take it off to check and re-seal. A dyno run might be the only way to check the mixture under load.

Oh, now THAT might earn you brownie points! Speaking of driveshafts, we bought an AE71 as a spare rally parts car, and dragged the driveshaft out of it 6months later to fit a T50 on Steve's car. It wasn't actually fitted up in the car, so we hauled it off to Steve's car. It wouldn't fit! We went mad for half an hour checking all sorts of KE70s and decided that it was NEVER hooked up in the car, it was a K-series d'shaft, and someone in the past had taken the T-series shaft and wired a K one up in its place behind the T-series gearbox....

Arrgh! OK, was the water warm when it boiled over? I see the temp gauge hasn't moved. I would expect quite a lot to boil over with big bubbles, maybe an eggcup to half a teacup in the first minute while it is still cold if the head gasket was leaking. The tiny little foamy ones are Ok. It is normal for it to fill right up or overflow a little at idle, then have the level go down when you accelerate, & then come back up when you take your foot off. So hopefully the gasket is fine. That is Ok so long as your temp gauge shows its warm. The motor should warm up in a couple of minutes if your themostat is doing its job. You can check your gauge by earthing out the lead from the sensor with the ignition on. The gauge should read full hot when it goes to earth. Then in normal running it should read about 1/3 up the dial. The radiator will be at 80deg or more in normal running, so you can't keep your hand on it. Now, fuel- Something is stopping fuel getting into the carb. So, it starts in the tank, which is clean, and I assume you blew the fuel lines out too. New fuel filter so that isn't blocked, and the fuel gets to the pump. The pump has to suck correctly, and quite separately it has to pump correctly, there is a chamber and a valve for each function inside the pump. If either valve is leaking from a little dirt under it the pump will work but perform badly. Swapping pumps will tell. You can find how much fuel the pump should put out at cranking speed in mls/minute somewhere if you're lucky, and measure that. The same with a fuel pressure gauge like TRDKE70 said, that will tell you how well the pump is working. If another pump doesn't solve it then there is only one thing left. The last component is the carb. There is a fuel level control that accepts the fuel from the pump and stops it at a certain level, the needle and seat arrangement. Take the top off the carb and check the needle and seat again, making sure it can't get stuck upwards and it has the right height setting when the needle closes. I haven't overhauled an Aisin, but for Weber DCOEs there is a distance (10mm odd) between the float and the top of the carb when the needle closes, and a maximum distance it is allowed to drop. It would give you your problem if the needle was jamming shut for some reason. I thought it might have had dirt under it and was flooding the carb, but you have just watched it empty itself. While you are there, see if there is a little gauze filter where the fuel goes into the carb. If there is make sure it is clean. Webers have them. I'm suspicious of the pump....

Seeing it will be rich during cold start, it suggests the problem is that it is lean when warm. Lurching also suggsts it is lean, so check for air leaks on the inlet side again... Can you have the mixture checked when running, either on a dyno or with a mixture display meter that hooks into the oxy sensor. If you're in a capitol city see if you can borrow a mixture meter for an afternoon off someone. If it is lean and no leaks, then chase the sensors. Water temp, air temp, injector cycle, whatever else it reads before deciding how much fuel to inject. Also check the fuel rail pressure, as the cycle time might be OK but the fuel volume low if the pressure isn't there. Anyway, first is mixture. Did it do this before you connected the thermistor?? Maybe it was running a cold start cycle permanently.

Sorry, it was hard to describe in words- Here is where you slice the side of a large nut, and then it forms a spacer so you can adjust the cable more.

Take a large steel nut with a hole large enough to fit over the outer cable and cut a few mm out of its wall. The you can slip the nut over the cable wire and put the outer cable though it. That will act as a spacer between the firewall fitting and the cable circlip. If that spacing changes the clutch pickup correctly you know the cable is too long. The terrible option is that something has slipped off inside the bell housing, the thrust bearing or its arm being the most likely.

Don't forget to only ever turn the motor forwards. If you go past a mark don't turn the crank backwards, you have to go right around again. But chase that slack down also, it shouldn't be there.

Bosch BiC 702 fits most Toyotas around that time. http://au.bosch-automotive-shop.com/en/products/details/-/productdetails/F005X11771 I'll find one at the local wrecker.

One morning take the radiator cap off and fill it right up, then start it & leave it sitting there idling while you watch. If the compression is leaking into the water jackets you will see the water overflow and bubbles come up before the thermostat opens. Once the 'stat opens it will settle down with a low water level in the rad and run OK. The other syptom is being hard to start in the morning, maybe on 3cyl for a few seconds, then fine to start all day. That's from water condensing in the middle cylinders and getting on the spark plug tips overnight, but is fine once it burns off. However the head gasket won't make it die as you drive away or while you're driving to work. The other one is to take the rad cap off and drive it around the block, then put a 105deg thermometer in the radiator water and see what it reads. You could just take the cap off, put in the thermometer and fire it up to leave it idling, it just takes longer to warm up. We did it a couple of days back checking the gauge on Steve's 4AGE. The 'stat opened at 80odd degrees and running temp was about 85, just as it should be. However his gauge only showed 1/4 up at that temp. A thermometer is a good investment.

I think its pretty common- I have a 10mm plastic spacer behind that washer at the firewall, partly to get the clutch grip where I want it, and partly because the little grooves in the alloy casing get smashed and then the circlip doesn't grip. I've used a hose-clamp, as blzbub suggested. Is the lower circlip at the bottom of the block in correctly? You can just grab the cable under the bonnet and pull it away from the firewall to see how much freeplay you have. Mine is about 8mm.

True- We can pull them both out and put them in a pot of water and measure resistances.

ohh- that is clever! Digital thermometer and controller in one. Dave, I'll chase it down in the next week when I'm up at the farm. The Tridon catalogue lists the same size for 4K & 4A AE82, but a small diameter for the 4AGE AE92. I think that's the one he has, although the dash and the motor came from the same 4AGE converted KE70, so it should have all worked. Otherwise we will chase down a resistor that converts what he has to fit the gauge. It is working on about 1/2 the scale and the cold resistance of his sender is 375ohms, while my KE70s are both around 660ohms. I'm wondering if a 300ohm resistor will extend the gauge scale to the usual 1/3 at running temp, 2/3 at hot.

I know there is a couple of fellow-Aucklanders on here, so I figure its worth a try. I'm flying back to NZ for my mum's 90th birthday in Rotorua. Which means landing in AKL and hiring a car for two weeks or so. (there is ALWAYS work that needs doing on the house...) Sadly Mum 's birthday is April 1st, so this year the time will cover Easter, when I'm sure nearly everyone will be out in their pride 'n joy. Anyway, I couldn't see the point of paying $40/day to some car hire place when maybe someone had a handy rolla sitting around. Anything reliable will do, Starlet, K-series, Rona... Just make sure it comes with a full toolbox!

WoW! Very nice, and some lovely machinery in there.

old-fashioned large sensor in M16x1.5 thread Newer smaller style with 1/8 Gas thread..... If Blzbub can swap the clusters we should be able to, so we will see if a KE70 & AE71 gauges read the same, we have them both. Maybe its just a gauge cluster problem.

-while it obviously isn't under the bonnet. So the 4AGE sensor doesn't suit the KE70 tacho dash resistance, which means the AE71 dashes must be different to KE70s... I'll solve it over the next week, but I wondered if anyone had come across this. You fit the 4AGE and the temp gauge never goes up to the 1/3 mark. The radiator water is at 80+ degrees acccording to a thermometer.

This is the number 2 big problem of going rallying in a Corolla. (The number one being a lack of a cheap limited slip diff). There is no cheap gas shock that fits and has the right valving. The biggest change in the Celica rally car (in my signature here) was from gas road inserts and stock spring heights to Bilstein gas and higher spring perches. This was the gap between running on the 20-somthings to running in the top 10 on a rally. So those Monroes, like all the commercial inserts, will be easy to go down and hard to come up. That gives a comfy ride and keep the car low for tarmac handling, but is the opposite of what you need on gravel. So, you could modify the internals of a stock strut. They aren't gas, so they won't handle a gravel pounding as good as a Bilstein, but the originals were 'adjustable' wet struts, where the oil was poured into the strut. These have holes in the foot valve that the oil gets pushed through in each direction, and little spring steel shims that cover them. Adjusting the size of the holes and the spring pressure of the shim plate alters how easily the oil flows, and hence the shock rate. They gas pressurise shocks to stop the oil foaming and getting air trapped in it, as that drops the viscosity. Still, you can do it in your garage if you still have original shocks on the car. Most people replaced them with inserts like those Monroes over the years, and you can't open them up. Next best option is to chat to everyone you can find near your home about shocks, and find some one who can revalve an insert for motorsport. That is the Bilstein route over here as Sydney Shocks absorbers supply all four of them for about $1500. Koni will do the same, so chase your local Koni agent too. Most cheap mass-produced inserts are crimped at the factory and cannot be taken apart, while you need one that is screwed in at the top and can be dismantled. Lots to read on the net- http://www.tpub.com/basae/11011_files/image740.jpg http://www.gkn.com/sintermetals/products/body-and-chassis/shock-absorber-components/Pages/default.aspx http://www.drivegreen.com/Auto_Service_13_MacPherson_Struts.htm http://fatcatmotorsports.com/FCM_app_guide.htm

No, you don't want stiff springs... you want springs that will hold the car at the height you want it, (tall) and then shocks that are stiff going downwards to stop the car from bottoming out. Then the shocks need to come up easily so the car doesn't get dragged down low and held there as it crashes into all the bumps and rocks. This is the opposite to what road shocks do, which is why they are no good on dirt cars. This is why Bilisteins are so popular. They are tipped upside down so the main body of the shock sticks up out of the strut and the larger diameter is stronger. Meanwhile the thinner shock shaft is tucked away down inside the strut so it can't bend. They are easy to get re-valved if you don't like the characteristics they had when you bought them In use, the springs should not be badly marked from coil-binding when the struts compress all the way down, but showing a few marks from it is good. That means you are using all the travel you have. The shock must never bottom out before the springs coilbind or you will smash the shock internally. Then you need a long preogressive bumpstop to absorb the force just before the coils bind. The ride height should be higher than normal to give you lots of downwards travel when you land after a yump. A static height of 2/3 up the strut travel. The front needs longer LCAs or adjustble cambertops to get negative camber to make it bite and turn in too. If the springs are stiff the car will skate across the surface of the gravel. You need body roll to throw weight onto the outside wheel and make it bite in. So you need long soft springs and strong shocks. You need it overall softer in the back, as the squat you get from the nose lifting and the tail sitting down will give better traction under acceleration. The rear doesn't hit yumps and hollows like the front does. Get long soft progressive rear bump stops too, and use all the rear travel you can. The rear springs are softer than stock too. That will keep you busy!

Yep, that's the one. Not the best design in the world, but it is made to fit a lot of different cars. I made my own linkage setup from scrap around the shed, although I bought the brass djustable arm. It wan't hard & I haven't touched it in the 4years since I did it- The quadrant that rotates on the end of the cable came off some carb lying around, I just had it welded onto a long bolt.. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/

You will probably have to modify a Redline kit- http://www.redlineauto.com.au/s-272-linkage-components.aspx http://www.redlineweber.com/carb-kits/auto/toyota/

LoL! Classic!