altezzaclub

If you haven't solved the trailing arm bush problem yet let me know. I'm planning a trip up to the Woolshed in a month or two & I know we have them lying around up there.

yep- I think you'll find you need the timing chain cover on before the head, so be careful not to drop the chain (or anything else) down the hole. I kept a length of wire through the chain links when I had it open. Ours leaked between the head and the timing chain cover before we had it apart, so use sealant around there. Also, put a rag in the hole to catch the joining link if you have to take it off to move a cam gear. You'll need the cams and chains organised such that the joining link is accessible at the top. We had on the edge of the exhaust cam gear. Our valve spring compressor was similar, but we mounted it an old drill press for extra leverage. You will see how similar the motors are, 18RG & 2TG. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/69126-how-to-build-a-rally-car/page__st__30

Good for another 30years !!

Ouch! Someone missed something important there!

Looks identical to the 18RG really. So, don't skim the head unless you really have to for a small warp, the compression is all done with different pistons. Don't mix TG and C rods. We used mixed rods and they couldn't be balanced as the weights were so different. Get it all balanced if you can. The 18RG was a growly tractor motor that didn't like to rev easily so we had it all balanced. One pair of G cams didn't have the plugs in the rear, so didn't build up oil pressure as they should. Some cam grinder forgot to put them back in. The sump is prone to oil surge (which is how Steve spun the bearing & wrecked the motor) so overfill the oil as a lot gets left up in the head when its running. We changed the dipstick setup to read full with an extra half a litre in after we had checked how deep the crank dips into the sump. You can weld extra baffles in the sump if you're going to thrash it on tarmac, gravel doesn't build up a lot of lateral G forces.. No drifting or doughnuts on tar! Some guys measure the tappet gaps without any shims in, put in the ones they can and then have the valves ground at the top to get the right gap. The official way is to order exactly the right size shim to give the right gap. As you grind the valves you will make the gaps smaller. Setting up the cam chains will drive you mad the first time- just keep practicing & make sure the cam timing is right. We had adjustable gears on the 18RG. If something doesn't seem dead right then do the plasticine check on top of the pistons to see how well the valves clear. The oil pump should have longer vanes in it to pump a greater flow. I can't see why you wouldn't use it on the road. It will be good to see how you go. A massive step up from the K motor! Solex twin carb Tuning Tips.pdf

Ah, isn't that typical! Always just before RWC.....

Without the weldy it would make a lovely daily..... That body looks very smart. Any idea on the paint code for the engine bay/boot etc?? I've got the same colour and I can only find the metallic gold code, not the sort of khaki the rest of the car is. Is yours an '83, the last of the flatties?

Ah, I see. I asked the question in the other topic, and here is the answer. Jeez, how much oil did you use? If there is about 30ml in the combustion chamber at TDC then more than a few ml will be raising the compression ratio. It certainly looks good with all 4 at 200psi. How long has it sat for?? I've only had rings seize once, and that was a motor that had sat for 4years. Mind you, it wouldn't turn over either! Can you tow start it? Once the motor is running at a couple of thousand rpm the compressions are much better.

How bad were the readings? 130psi would run OK, even 110psi would drive alright, just slow. ----------------------------------- Ah- found the other post in the TEO's thread!

Arrgh! That's no good! What do you reckon? Warped head?

Ah- a new project! like this?

If you do the 4link & coilovers, how much more work would it be to use IRS and have the diff bolted to the body? Is it a competition car only, not on the road at all?

The really really funny thing is that the 450bhp Renault V6 is actually from Nissan, the Maxima motor!! Their joint venture work had Nissan supply them and when the contract ended the renault race cars went to V8s.

or one of the Mazda MX5 motors and the same 6-speed box. Getting the most modern 4-cyl motor in RWD format would be the most practical route, something cheap on fuel and reliable & the RWD format makes it all easier.

What Kiwis do when the TV is broken... the only bit of actual Peugeot in the car is the roof. The last ones explain it all- I dunno how he learnt so much so young! ...and where he found the cash!

Sounds like wiring, so just start at the bulbs and test each wire, then work your way back to the indicator switch, which is where I reckon the problem will be.

Depends which 5K you had. The deep "D" dish piston has a head wih no combustion chamber really, the shallow "O" dish pistons ran with a combustion chamber about the same as a 4K I think, about 31cc. if you put a 4K head on top of the D-dish pistons you will drop the compression, and on top of the O-dish it stays about the same. The O-dish itself contains 6cc, which drops the compression compared to the 4K's flat top pistons. You'll have to measure, or find the volume online, of the 5K head you had. Then you can use an online compression ratio calculator to compare the 4K and 5K heads. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/70614-5k-head-4k-block/

Wow! That's a lot of work! What did you do to upright it? How does the gearlever look? I thought the carbs ran with the fuel bowl seam horizontal, so a lot less vertical than you have them. That would give you shorter intakes and more room.

I use 95 from United all the time, everything from the untouched KE70, the higher comp & cam KE70, the Pulsar SSS and the Altezza. The only way to check your ideas about fuel consumption is to be very scientific about it. You have to fill the tank every time to the same amount. (I fill until the pump clicks off, then pull it again to make sure it clicks off again almost instantly) You have to drive the same route, more or less. I use trips from Orange to Walcha, 550Km each way, one way is always better. You have to do it several times. The more times you check it the more accurate your figures are. I know- 98octane gives more Km per tank, but not enough to cover the extra cost. Larger diameter tyres or a taller diff ratio cuts back the rpm at 100kph but uses slightly more fuel. Driving at the coast uses less fuel than driving at altitude. SU carbs use less fuel than stock Aisan carbs.

It sounds like the heater has been disconnected. Trace the heater hoses around the motor and see if they just go out from the water pump and back into the motor. Have they just been blanked off with bolts even?

Weren't they usually described as "a Falcon with a different body"? I can't see them being any lighter than a Falcon, and I assume they are as quick as any factory hot version of our local product. I've always figured American car technology as a decade behind the rest of the world, so maybe they've got rid of the cart springs by now. They have cheap fuel and a culture of large cars for straight roads. A quick google shows them to weigh 1630Kg.

So they could forge a set of correctly sized pistons with over-sized unfinished crowns for you to finish as you wished? These are great threads, I'm sure a lot of guys just starting on motors are realising how straight-forward head work is and what can be done. A 4K benefits from the same work, a motor is a motor until you're down to the last few percent of extra bhp.

Can't fit a V6 in there somehow?

This I saw pop up a couple of years back and I also didn't think any sane person could believe in it. Seems I forgot most people IN the psychiatric field are not sane! http://atlasshrugs2000.typepad.com/pamela_geller/2015/01/obamas-new-psychiatric-diagnosis-targets-internet-conspiracy-theorists-for-gun-ineligibility.html#more

Think about the options to seam welding. Sure its the easiest and most common way of strengthening a car, but it defeats the very reason spotwelds were used. A row of spot welds allows flex to dissipate stress, something that makes the metal last longer but upsets race car drivers. You replace that with a straight welded seam and all the stress gets concentrated along the weld edge, asking for it to crack. An option is to double the number of spot welds by drilling through one layer and hitting the hole with a Mig. The problem is the sealant between the layers making a mess of the weld. Worth trying... Anothe one is to use studs, so you drill between every spotweld and put in a stud rivet. The strengthens the seam but allows some flex without concentrating the movement down a weld. After all, they rivet aircraft together, they don't weld them!