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Super Jamie

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Super Jamie last won the day on August 5 2012

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    Brisbane, QLD
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  1. Yellow KE26, in Northgate and in Taigum. Really neat little pano. Anyone here?
  2. Ahhhh! Many thanks for the writeup, that's super useful, I will include that for sure! I would hey. I've heard oil coils work for a while, but eventually burn the ignitor out, then you're up for a new ignitor. I am pretty sure the Bosch HEC716 (Commodore coil) is the same thing as the Bosch HEC715, except the 715 has a socket so you don't have to change the center plug lead. Looking on eBay the HEC715 comes from: - Sept 1985 to Sept 1987 Ford Telstar AS 2.0 TX5 EFI and EFI Turbo - June 1983 to Jan 1985 Nissan Bluebird 2.0 L20B - Also for use with Microtech direct fire LT series ECUs - Common upgrade for 13B rotary engines with electronic distributors and twin coils I just learnt about this HEC715 coil this arvo but it seems to be a good choice too. The ausrotary thread on the HEI coils says the terminals are not marked positive/negative, but apparently it doesn't matter which way you wire them? If you get one, let us know how you go plugging it in. If the wrecker wants heaps for one, there's a VS V8 coil on eBay for 10 bucks at the moment. There's also various OEM replacements for $30 to $90. Microtech sell a set of 4 coils for $250. Oh, and I don't think you need the ballast resistor at all with a HEI coil. These are all 12V ignition parts.
  3. I'm getting into the wiki again and it's gotten a bit messier from when it was the old FAQ. I'd like to tidy it up and take the chance to include even more knowledge while I'm at it. We currently have three pages for distributors and ignition: http://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/K_Series/Distributor'>http://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/K_Series/Distributor - this is pictures and part numbers of internal and external ignitors http://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/K_Series/Electronic_distributor - this one i tidied, rewrote, and added to today http://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/K_Series/Distrib - this one is just denso part numbers I'll combine these into one page. If anyone has anything at all they'd like to add on the topic of dizzys/ignition/coils/spark, please note it down in this thread, I'm happy to organise it all into a nice wiki article. Some things I can already think to add: Talk about Denso and Bosch points distributors, list differences (Denso adjuster screw) and cap/rotor part numbers List coil wire lengths and plug types, I have this in a picture I saved off eBay Talk about how lower resistance of plug wires is the most important factor in wires, not shielding thickness Upgrading oil-type coils, from stock to Bosch GT40 to MSD Blaster II Talk about having distributors regraphed to suit different cams, give props to PEI in Nunawading, Vic List stock spark plug numbers and gap Talk about the need to run cooler plugs in a worked K motor or your tappets heat up and unwind clack clack clack :P Things I can think I'd like others advice on: Ballast resistors, wtf they even do, how they seem to be common problems, how to diagnose a faulty one Where did the elec dizzy with external ignitor come from? Late or import KE70? 5K vans? Other? Any experience on running fancy $200 spark plugs in K motors? Worth it or waste of money? If you'd like to talk to any of these points, or corrent me, or can think of stuff I've missed please do go for it!
  4. I always like having a big battery in my cars. If you ever run into carby troubles you can easily flatten a small standard battery trying to start it, or if your alternator or wiring isn't fantastic then it can give you a bit of extra juice before you go flat. It's also handy for the times you build an engine and crank it without ignition to get oil through it. I measured up the battery tray and room available in my KE30, went down to Autobarn and looked at what they had on the shelf. I went from a standard MF43 battery (238Wx138Dx186H) with 360CCA to a SuperCharge MF52 (237Wx171Dx182H) with 650CCA. Fits perfectly with a new 7" battery clamp. I started a new page on the wiki for batteries: http://www.rollaclub..._Series/Battery (inb4 someone criticises me for adding 4.5kg of sprung weight to the front of my car)
  5. I find http://www.imgur.com/ to be easiest. As you upload photos, it will give you a direct link to pictures, or BBCode which lets you just paste it into the forum here.
  6. You might also want to look at the rear windscreen seal. I have this exact problem in my KE30. A new windscreen seal is $130 posted from Phils Rotaries, and Novus will charge you about $155 labour to put it in.
  7. I had the above KE55 round-headlight grille in mine and I hate it. I found myself an early KE30 grille like the second pic of the white car. I think those ones look the best. But that's just my opinion. I re-iterate my point, why does it matter what a bunch of people on the internet think? I don't own your car, nor do I work on it, nor do I drive it, nor do I look at it lovingly on the driveway. None of us do. You do all those things to your car. We do those things to our own cars. Make your car how you want it to look.
  8. These are reliable cars. If you're paying a mechanic, they'll cost the same to service as any other regular standard car. The thing with these old Corollas is, they're so simple you can work on them yourself and save a fair bit of money. Services are pretty much an oil change ($60), spark plugs ($5 each), and half a day to adjust tappets or maybe re-grease a bearing or something like that. That being said, I would not pay $5500 for that car. The wheels stick out past the body which is illegal. If this guy's selling the car registered, he needs to get a roadworthy here in Qld. If a mechanic will pass that car for roadworthy then they're giving him a dodgy roadworthy, so the rest of the car could be rooted and you'd never know. It's only got a standard 4K motor, nothing special. It probably has a too-noisy exhaust. The deep dish steering wheel is wrong, these cars need a flat wheel, you'd need to reach forward to turn the indicators or wipers on. It's got small 13" wheels which are too wide, with crap tyres. I expect the odometer reads 22,849km however these odometers only have 5 digits so it's either 122,849km or 222,849km. Given everything else about the car, I expect the carburettor is oversized for the engine which would lead to poor fuel economy and poor driving, as it would probably bog down when you mash your foot. It's got a fully sick stereo in it, which tells you a lot. In my experience, people who put stereos in old cars tend to not maintain the cars properly and drive them into the ground. These old Corollas are great cars, but this particular one is a project car where you'd have to undo a bunch of dodgy crap someone else has done before it's a really "nice" car. If you go see this car, check all over for rust. Check under the body, along the underside of the doors, at the bottom of the front guards where the front door joins, and at the bottom of the boot corners. Look for crumpling or bending inside the engine bay, along the guards and the rails, and under the car chassis rails, which would indicate the car has been in a crash. Sit with the hose on the front and rear windscreen for 5 minutes each. Check if any water ends up in the front footwells (dropping down behind the dash) or in the boot (getting in the boot seal or the rear windscreen). Do the same to the side windows, those side window seals on the hardtop are hard to find so not many people replace them, but they suck when they leak. Take a philips head screwdriver and take the panel off where the wiper arms are, and put your arm in there and feel around the bottom left and right corners. It's common for these to be full of leaves and dirt and crap, and they rust there. If you want a project car, and this thing is not full of rust or been crashed, offer this bloke $2500 and don't pay more than $3000. If it has rust, don't bother, a KE35 isn't worth it. Maybe in 10 years it will be, but not now. If you want a reliable car to get you from A to B and pay someone else to service it and never worry about it, this is not the car for you. You'd probably be better to buy something about 20 years newer. You can get small cars like 1990s Corollas or Excels or Pulsars for your budget of $5500. Sorry to rain on your parade, but I've bought dodgy cars before and it's really soul-crushing, especially if you're spending a heap of money and it's something which means a lot like your first car. This ad and pictures set off all the warning bells to me. It's overpriced, has had visibly wrong things done to it, so I assume the worst for the rest of the car. Honestly I would not even bother going to see it. Keep looking, the car for you is out there!
  9. I am also a Pennzoil fan. I was running 15W40 or 15W50 semi-synthetic. The blowby in these old motors would ruin the oil after 5000km so you'll be changing oil often. Buy shares in an oil company :P I tried 5W40. It sure revved quickly but it was too thin so the tappets rattled like crazy. I also tried straight 30W mineral oil, which also worked fine, though the engine didn't rev as fast. In a tired old K motor I'd use 30W or 50W mineral oil.
  10. You might be able to get off-the-shelf lowered springs for the front, but they might not go that low. The KE1x has a transverse leaf in the front, but you want to leave this in, the suspension gets pretty weird if you just take it out. If I remember correctly, Felix had KE70 front springs in his KE15 and had taken the transverse leaf out, but also had fitted a Datsun front swaybar to do the job of the leaf. It still wasn't very low. You could get your existing shocks made into coilovers. If you go really low, you'll need to have your struts shortened and use shorter stroke shocks. I'm not sure what shortened shock fits in a KE1x but a shop making you coilovers should be able to source something. For the rears, get the leaves reset and an extra leaf added in. If a shop suggests lowering blocks, politely say no thank you and walk away. Lowering blocks are dodgy and ruin your suspension angles, so the diff twists more under load. Get the front done first, or get both done together. Just don't do the back first. You want to match the front stance so the car sits flat or slightly lower in the front.
  11. Fuel pump, thermostat housing, timing cover, gearbox dust shield - I'll buy these
  12. Thanks for the excellent pics, though I'll pass on the bumper. Mine's about that good but I'm looking for a totally perfect one.
  13. Is the rear bumper perfectly straight, or has it had a bend? If it's straight I'll take it.
  14. If you want to measure backspacing, it's very easy to work out offset from there.
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