altezzaclub

Ah, isn't that typical! Always just before RWC.....

Without the weldy it would make a lovely daily..... That body looks very smart. Any idea on the paint code for the engine bay/boot etc?? I've got the same colour and I can only find the metallic gold code, not the sort of khaki the rest of the car is. Is yours an '83, the last of the flatties?

Ah, I see. I asked the question in the other topic, and here is the answer. Jeez, how much oil did you use? If there is about 30ml in the combustion chamber at TDC then more than a few ml will be raising the compression ratio. It certainly looks good with all 4 at 200psi. How long has it sat for?? I've only had rings seize once, and that was a motor that had sat for 4years. Mind you, it wouldn't turn over either! Can you tow start it? Once the motor is running at a couple of thousand rpm the compressions are much better.

How bad were the readings? 130psi would run OK, even 110psi would drive alright, just slow. ----------------------------------- Ah- found the other post in the TEO's thread!

Arrgh! That's no good! What do you reckon? Warped head?

Ah- a new project! like this?

If you do the 4link & coilovers, how much more work would it be to use IRS and have the diff bolted to the body? Is it a competition car only, not on the road at all?

The really really funny thing is that the 450bhp Renault V6 is actually from Nissan, the Maxima motor!! Their joint venture work had Nissan supply them and when the contract ended the renault race cars went to V8s.

or one of the Mazda MX5 motors and the same 6-speed box. Getting the most modern 4-cyl motor in RWD format would be the most practical route, something cheap on fuel and reliable & the RWD format makes it all easier.

What Kiwis do when the TV is broken... the only bit of actual Peugeot in the car is the roof. The last ones explain it all- I dunno how he learnt so much so young! ...and where he found the cash!

Sounds like wiring, so just start at the bulbs and test each wire, then work your way back to the indicator switch, which is where I reckon the problem will be.

Depends which 5K you had. The deep "D" dish piston has a head wih no combustion chamber really, the shallow "O" dish pistons ran with a combustion chamber about the same as a 4K I think, about 31cc. if you put a 4K head on top of the D-dish pistons you will drop the compression, and on top of the O-dish it stays about the same. The O-dish itself contains 6cc, which drops the compression compared to the 4K's flat top pistons. You'll have to measure, or find the volume online, of the 5K head you had. Then you can use an online compression ratio calculator to compare the 4K and 5K heads. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/70614-5k-head-4k-block/

Wow! That's a lot of work! What did you do to upright it? How does the gearlever look? I thought the carbs ran with the fuel bowl seam horizontal, so a lot less vertical than you have them. That would give you shorter intakes and more room.

I use 95 from United all the time, everything from the untouched KE70, the higher comp & cam KE70, the Pulsar SSS and the Altezza. The only way to check your ideas about fuel consumption is to be very scientific about it. You have to fill the tank every time to the same amount. (I fill until the pump clicks off, then pull it again to make sure it clicks off again almost instantly) You have to drive the same route, more or less. I use trips from Orange to Walcha, 550Km each way, one way is always better. You have to do it several times. The more times you check it the more accurate your figures are. I know- 98octane gives more Km per tank, but not enough to cover the extra cost. Larger diameter tyres or a taller diff ratio cuts back the rpm at 100kph but uses slightly more fuel. Driving at the coast uses less fuel than driving at altitude. SU carbs use less fuel than stock Aisan carbs.

It sounds like the heater has been disconnected. Trace the heater hoses around the motor and see if they just go out from the water pump and back into the motor. Have they just been blanked off with bolts even?

Weren't they usually described as "a Falcon with a different body"? I can't see them being any lighter than a Falcon, and I assume they are as quick as any factory hot version of our local product. I've always figured American car technology as a decade behind the rest of the world, so maybe they've got rid of the cart springs by now. They have cheap fuel and a culture of large cars for straight roads. A quick google shows them to weigh 1630Kg.

So they could forge a set of correctly sized pistons with over-sized unfinished crowns for you to finish as you wished? These are great threads, I'm sure a lot of guys just starting on motors are realising how straight-forward head work is and what can be done. A 4K benefits from the same work, a motor is a motor until you're down to the last few percent of extra bhp.

Can't fit a V6 in there somehow?

This I saw pop up a couple of years back and I also didn't think any sane person could believe in it. Seems I forgot most people IN the psychiatric field are not sane! http://atlasshrugs2000.typepad.com/pamela_geller/2015/01/obamas-new-psychiatric-diagnosis-targets-internet-conspiracy-theorists-for-gun-ineligibility.html#more

Think about the options to seam welding. Sure its the easiest and most common way of strengthening a car, but it defeats the very reason spotwelds were used. A row of spot welds allows flex to dissipate stress, something that makes the metal last longer but upsets race car drivers. You replace that with a straight welded seam and all the stress gets concentrated along the weld edge, asking for it to crack. An option is to double the number of spot welds by drilling through one layer and hitting the hole with a Mig. The problem is the sealant between the layers making a mess of the weld. Worth trying... Anothe one is to use studs, so you drill between every spotweld and put in a stud rivet. The strengthens the seam but allows some flex without concentrating the movement down a weld. After all, they rivet aircraft together, they don't weld them!

Ah, that's bad news about the head- too bad to be welded?? I suppose there are enough of those heads around now to get another. How do you feel about welding a new outlet in the bottom of the fuel tank?? Unlike the KE70, it wouldn't be in any danger of being knocked off by a stone and it would simplify the fuel system considerably..

Why spend $50K on some fat, overweight, souless, plastic box that you cannot feel is your 'own' as you did nothing to build it?? You buy new cars to get from A to B, not to enjoy or get any feeleing of love for. Build the KE70 into something you want, it doesn't matter what it costs if you enjoy doing it, owning it and driving it. I'd build a pair, one really nicely restored one as a daily and one roughie that you can drift without worrying if you bend it. Start on small projects, doing it up except the SR20 which you do last. I've got an SR20 in the Pulsar SSS and its a great torquey motor. Do that part last is it is the most complicated and expensive, and by the time you have done the body and suspension you'll be comfortable with a complex project rather than rushing in and selling it as a half-done project. The seams between the metal panels around the boot rust and let water through, as do the rubber seals around the tail lights. Easy to fix and the best way to stop it is a garage or carport, and always park it in the rain facing uphill!

Don't get too fixed with that idea, there's a lot of tuning that can be done with different tyres front & rear.... My first modern car was a 1964 Mini Cooper with front tyres much wider than the rears. That had adjustable LCAs and no understeer now I think about it.

I don't know the details of the differences, but there's always a strong argument for sticking to plan A. You have the silvertop so fit it, then modify or change it further down the track once you have had some fun and decided how much more money you want to put into the project.

Hard to say from the photo, got a closeup? I can't see the shape of it. Could be a delay valve, which stops the timing advancing until the vac is higher. I had one on mine (fitted by the guy who dyno-tuned it back in the early days) but when I fitted an electronic dizzy I had to run a drill through it to get a decent advance curve. nope- that wouldn't be on the t'stat housing. They go inline to the dizy. There is a temp sensitive vacuum valve (a BVSV)on the Ke70s t'stat housing, so it allows vac above a certain temperature. I think it opens the exhaust gas recirculation.