altezzaclub

It shouldn't be crucial, but I expect it will be a coarser adjustment than factory now. Make sure you clean the drillways out behind the jets too. I use a syringe (no needle) full of petrol to squirt through them, but anything that hoses solvent through will do. The cans of carb cleaner are good, and even an air-gun if you have a compressor.

The spring rates and shock rates can be copied into the stock setup, so you can have the same result with either system. The coilover spring will be softer to match the stock one. The coil-over is fractionally more efficient with the coil and shock mounted in the same place, but I reckon you'd never notice the difference. However coilovers let you change the ride height by winding the base up and down, and I'd say that's the main advantage. Thinking about it for the rally car....

If you haven't replaced the one in the dizzy, do so. That condenseor builds up the spark to fire the coil. If that doesn't fix it, check the coil resistance and the leads. As Banjo said, the coil capacitor is for radio noise suppression.

Gold! It will run fine with these jets, not as good as it absolutely can if you have non-standard parts like cut cams or extractors, but good enough though- Idle problems are somewhere else, like leaks or throttles not set up properly. OK, disconnect the two carbs, take out a linkage or something. Open the throttle maybe 1/4, and let it go. It must close on each carb with a sharp distinct clunk! If it doesn't then the throttle butterflies are not squared up on the shafts and that can give high idle. You will have to loosen the screws holding the butterflies on their shafts carefully, settle them in on a closed throttle then tighten them again. Hopefully you won't have to, but many many Webers I've sorted out have had this problem.

Take those jets out & look at the bottoms. Those are the air jets, the fuel jets are at the bottom of the emulsion tube. Sit on Google and learn about (yet ANOTHER thing to learn about on cars..) side-draught carbs! Lots of Weber stuff on the net, most of which is similar. The fuel gets sucked up through the bottom, the air gets sucked in down that 200 jet ad they mix in the emulsion tube. The air has more effect at higher revs, the emulsion tube has a lesser effect than the air & fuel jets, but all three can be changed to get the best match. What sort of gaskets between the carbs and the manifold?? There are 'soft-mounts' you can buy for that, they have rubber O-rings to absorb engine vibrations so you don't get frothing in the float bowl. They are delicate, can't be done up too tight and must be checked for leaks every now & then. here's a starting point- (which I haven't read, I must confess, I just saw the jet pictures..) http://www.ozgemini.com/forums/tech/viewtopic.php?t=19014

Education is expensive, and the better the education the more expensive it is! So by the time its running beautifully and looking great, you will have learnt more than most of us about turboe'd motors and all the other mechanical systems like cooling & gearboxes and diffs to go with them. It will make a great car when sorted! Keep it for 10years and it cost a grand a year, cheaper than a new car.

You could gusset the shock mount on the diff and plate the top mount area in the boot. ...or you could leave it like it is and see what happens! Maybe its fine just as they produced it, PROVIDING you don't lower the car enough to bottom out! Bottom out hard in a bump & I'd say you could knock the shock mount clean off the diff, although rally cars have ripped the top mount out of the boot before now.

How does it drive now? Big difference?

When you're ready to start it, put the suction-side line of the fuel pump into a jar of petrol. That eliminates a blocked filter and dirty lines. If the pump won't suck that up then take the top off it and check the valves carefully for dirt under them. If it is clear there then the problem is in the diaphram or the cam arm. You should be able to take the pump off the car and pump fuel out of a jar by working the lever with your hands. This is more-or-less what its like-. http://www.autorepairnewark.info/how-can-mechanical-and-electric-fuel-pumps-work.html

They might have had the paralell 4-link in the way Rob, somewhere down the outside edges of the diff where the shocks would come up through the floor if vertical. ...and they think that car was heavy!!!

It has a one-way ratchet on the adjuster inside the drum, so it turns one way only (The tightening way..) For the life of me I cannot remember if both wheels turn "upwards, or one goes in each direction! A flatblade screwdriver in the 'impossible to get at' slot in the back of the drum, and lots of patience. Anyway, you will need to adjust them by hand until they just touch the drums somewhere in a wheel turn, then the automatic bit can keep it there. Before you let the jack down give them a couple of pumps when you have them just touching, which may recenter the shoes and take a bit more adjustment.

Pop the carb fuel line off and put it in a jar then crank it. That will show if the fuel pump is getting fuel there, so if fuel fills the jar then the problem is probably inside the carb. However, you're trying to run a two cylinder motor if the head gasket is blown. Water getting sucked back in will sit on the plugs and stop them firing. Do a compression test before you take the head off, it will give you an idea of how good the rings and valves are, and how much money you should put into it...

Ah- Can you post up the jets sizes for us? Might be someone who knows Solexes on here. Air jet & fuel jet on the mains would be the ones, it might be really lean. ..and the 'choke' size in the venturi throat. I assume all 4 pump jets shot out fuel. For Webers we'd be running 36chokes with 170 airs and 140 fuels or thereabouts.

Lookin' good! If this motor goes like it should you will be amazed, excited and estactic with the performance, a massive change from the K.

It doesn't affect the performance of the heater, its just takes more pressure than a long rubber hose will. If you disconnect one hose at the motor, does water pour out of the hose via the heater? Have you tried putting a garden hose on one end and seeing if water pours out the other?? The problem with that test is blowing the soldered joints open on the heater, so it wouldn't pay to put too much pressure down the pipe. But if you can get water circulating through the pipes & heater & heater control valve, you've covered half the problem. The other half is as Taz says, the controls for the flaps so air is actually flowing past the heater coils into the car. In six months we'll all be trying to get the aircon working! I'll just edit this in- Its a circuit, so the water flows from the end with more pressure to the end with less pressure. On the KE70, the water pump pushes water into one hose (driver's side) and sucks from the other (passenger's). The KE30 have one hose going to the back of the head, which I think is the low-pressure end. It will work with just rubber hoses.

First, go and see if the electrical idle shut-off valve is working. It should, 'click' when someone turns the ignition on and off. If it is disconnected or broken, the car won't idle... Perhaps it was disconnected when the carby kit was put through.

Is that an air jet? If the top is wider than the thread, then the O-ring goes just under the top rim and seals against the carb body, like your left-hand picture. If the screw is straight-sided then the O-ring must seal under it, like your right-hand picture but right underneath the top screw. It should screw down firmly on something, not just sit somewhere without screwing in properly. I'm a Weber man unfortunately, so I haven't had Solexes apart.

Put some fuel in the carbs and make sure the pump jets squirt it all over the floor before you fit the carbs back on. On a Weber you can shoot a jet of fuel right across the garage. That sounds like a blocked pump jet, unless the jets are much much too small so it is very lean.

In this picture, the easiest way to make an oil pump 'bigger' is to lengthen the star gear and the ring called a rotor set, and fit the same length steel spacer around the outside of them. http://www.japan-parts.eu/EU/4/MA0427H.png So at the same revs the oil pump pushes more oil, and Toyota did this with some pumps. The pressure release valve is built in, as you can see, and on a new pump it should be dead clean. Its an odd problem.. maybe it is sucking air in, or maybe the oil is leaking out somewhere, but it obviously gets worse when the oil can flow more easiiy. If it was something like worn bearings I'm sure you'd hear them knocking. Can you get it so you can see if oil is flying around in the cams?? Take off the oil filler cap? I wondered if you are still getting flow up there when the pressure is on the red light. We had an 18RG motor where the cam grinder left the plugs out of the back of the cams, so as oil went in it just flowed straight out the back and didn't build up enough pressure to push it out of the lobes. Odd things happen.

Seduced to the dark side..... .

Is the 4M pump the same (vane) size as the 5M? You only get oil pressure when its cold as the oil is thick, so you see pressure but you won't get much flow as it is hard to pump through the oilways. Once its warmed up it flows much easier and hence the pressure drops and the flow increases, so a low pressure when warm is to be expected. So either the pump isn't pumping enough volume to give pressure when warm, or the oil is leaking out too fast to get the pressure to build up as Styler said. I assume the new pump had a new oil pressure relief valve on it?? No chance of shit under the ball?

haha! There's nothing better than a long list with lots crossed out!

Called a rear axle with one wheel jacked up and the motor idling in reverse gear...

Tackle it one system at a time & take lots of photos! The cross-member just bolts on, as you will find. I'd take the motor/box out and clean it up, check everything like electrical connections and leaks, then put it aside. Strip the donor suspension & cross-member and clean and paint it all. Get it all ready before you strip the new car so its the minimum length of time between undoing one motor and bolting up the other. Then pull it out of the new car, cleaning the engine bay when the motor is out. Pop the good stuff in and bolt it up. The back end is dead easy. Its all just simple spanner work actually.

I would say so. The diagram doesn't have any switch (such as an ignition key) between the battery and the computer etc, which is a bit of a worry. I assume the ignition key goes after the 10A fuse and before the circuit splits into the 4x15A fuses. Then the relays have to splice into the coloured wires that go into the ECU. The fuse setup itself looks weird, why have 15A fuses after a 10A, and why have more than one 15A. The ECU surely doesn't pull anywhere near 60amps... Got any other circuits that people have used??