altezzaclub

No, that might short out something and set the wiring on fire.. Find out what is powering the negative side of the coil, remembering that the power flows through the coil from +ve to -ve then down to the igniter and off to earth. So if you take the wire off the -ve, you will have power at the -ve terminal when the +ve has power, but the -ve wire should be dead. Check out Parrot's wiring diagram here http://files.aeu86.org/manuals/ewd-ae86-1983-eu_au-parrot.pdf 6bar is pretty high, I thought they ran on 3-4bar. The pump I've just bought has no brand name and no specs at all of course...

About 10mm per side. A handy amount on a KE35, but too much on a KE70.

Certainly the richness will help it resist pinking, but 4Ks will carry a lot of advance without knocking at all. Just see how it goes. You might find it is too advanced at low revs. Once it is running OK get a timing light and mark the pulley with white ink out to 40deg. Generate a timing curve up to 3000rpm, then take a spring out of the dizzy base and replace it with a lighter one. That will allow you to retard the idle advance back to 10deg and still have it advance up to 35deg in the first few thousand rpm. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/49927-how-to-fix-your-brand-new-ke-motorsport-electronic-distributor/page__pid__511594#entry511594

One of those two- The ballast gets used on "run" and bypassed on "start", so a dud ballast will do what is happening. The ignition block has a contact for each position, so if the contact burns out in the "run" side of the ignition key it will do the same. Its more likely the ballast, but so long as you bypassed the ballast correctly it must be the ignition block behind the key.

The KE70 steering arm won't fit the Celcia strut holes. The Celica steering arm is miles longer and you will lose a lot of lock. Start chasing AE86 ones.

The 5K is not common, but they do come up now and then. The 4AGE needs a cert, in NSW anyway but I'm sure all of Aussie will be the same. The 3SGE would be the other one, a nice motor but tall, it gets you out to 2L and come swith a 6speed J160 box. Builds on here for that too. You could turn a newer FWD engine around, but that's a lot of work. Easier to get an Altezza motor and 6-speed and drop the whole lot in.

DYING for testing and results!! A work of art on such a worrisome head full of tar and gunk.

Ask a windscreen repair place. We did and bought a couple of tubes of the correct stuff for fitting the rally car windscreen, but I can't remember what its called. Specific for the job anyway.

I'm sure you're quite right- The original 4K pump sucks from the tank, so less than zero psi, and puts out about 7psi. I don't know what the VL intank pump runs at, but the main pump must run at 50psi or so. You can feel the injection hose is thicker and stiffer.

Lovely! Did the diff setup cost more than the car??

Was that the mount that lifts when you drop the clutch?? I think all of them split.

Haha! Yeah right! As far as I can see they don't exist as Toyota used an unusual size for the needle bearings on 1st, 5th and the layshaft ends. These are way out of production and no-one can find them. Naturally all the boxes are wearing out together, and when I put a box in for a new front seal recently they said the bearings were rooted and it can't be fixed. Unless we are willing to run out of manual boxes in a few years, we need some bright ideas on how to modify the shafts and housings to take a closely-sized common bearing. Keep this in mind when you're having a beer with someone from a bearing shop or a gearbox place, and post ideas up here. T50s on the 4AGEs won't be far behind, they're already out of stock at Transmission Components...

The Beast is awaiting me getting back up to the Woolshed, maybe mid-Feb after the grape harvest down here. The Girl has got me tied up some Uni research she is doing for grape yield prediction. I've got the new fuel pmmps for the 4AGE. Coming back, the instrument fuse blew as I got to Tamworth. The spare lasted 5minutes, so it wasn't an instant short. I mucked around casually for day or two, the car drives without it, and found it yesterday. I hadn't hooked up the reversing lights as the auto to manual is a pain, "I'll do that later..." The live feed wire from the gearstick temporally ran forward through the firewall to join wires above the bellhousing, but it wasn't hooked up. So it dangled on the extractors until it melted through and shorted out occasionally.. Now I need to replace the wire AND hook the reverse lights up! It ran at 6.9L/100 for about 500Km on the way back.

You reckon that was a rubber hose problem?? I'll get high-pressure lines and clamps for them all I reckon.

Carb needle and seat valve on the float.. The float goes up as the carb fills and pushes the little cone-shaped needle into its seat to stop petrol coming in. All you need is a bit of dirt on the seat and petrol will keep pouring in and flood everything. Pull the carb top off and look in there carefully. The seat tube unscrews to check it. Crank the motor and flush the fuel into a can & look for dirt in it. If the needle point is worn, get a new one. Adjustments will do nothing, the only adjustment for mixture is the idle screw, which doesn't affect mixture when driving. An inlet/exhaust valve in the head (if that's what he means) won't affect mixture either. Do it yourself, and check the points and timing yourself too, its no use paying people to screw your car up when you can do it yourself!! :D

LoL! That's why it would be hard to explain from the symptoms!

Depends on where the relay is Greenmac. For some strange reason Toyota put a relay in the switch line of the KE70 so the switch doesn't have to carry much current, but then they earth the fabulous relay line through the light switch, which stops the current flow! Just check and see how the Crown is wired.

The clutch came from Orange Brake and Clutch, and I went back yesterday to have a moan. He said he could send it to Sydney, who would send it to melb to get its clamp pressure tested, and they would say it was within spec. He has a pressure tester at his home but no-one ever uses them, they just import Exedys or whatever & retail them on. Maybe I should've got one off Fleabay!

Good question! I can only answer based on my Armstrong Siddeley, but yes, they can jam from dirt & sludge. They have an outer cylinder, like a pistol cartridge, an inner piston that held the pushrod end in a hollow cup, and a hole in the side for oil. Meh- Wiki can explain it-. The car was burnt-out when I bought it (at 15 years old) and it took four years to get it on the road. In that time the sludge in the tappets had solidified (as had the piston rings!) and they didn't work until stripped and cleaned. To set them I had to slowly lever the pushrods down with a big screwdriver. That pushed the oil out and you started with a gap of 90thou just like setting tappets normally. When you fired the motor up it rattled like mad until they filled with oil, then you never touched them again. So you might find the same- someone with a 5K will know if you can push the pushrods down to show the piston slides inside the cyl. I expect they cannot jam in a way to hold a valve open, but they could jam in a way to not open it as much.

OK, an 1800km run to Melb and back, the only worry was a slip of the clutch a couple of times. Damm thing is only a year or so old.. Then off to Walcha on Dec 30th to start on The Girl's Beast and its 4AGE again. I swapped the diffs between them once again, so the 4.3borgie and original tailshaft is in the Hoonicorn. The Beast has the Celica diff and the custom shaft that vibrates, which I had checked in melb by Knox Driveshafts. He said its got run-out on it that he can't eliminate, but it is better than it was. I'll get him to do the next one. Then I pulled the gearbox out and checked the clutch. A smear of oil on the plate, maybe from the g'box front seal, but it shouldn't be slipping.. So I pulled a couple of other clutches out and made a rig to test them. Its just a 2Kg weight hanging on a pole off the drill press arm, and you just move the weight along until it manages to push the pressure plate over its 'cam'. Some big differences- Two PBR 2038 pressure plate from a pair of KE70s read 1035 & 930 The new Exedy from the Hoonicorn read 650 ! Actually, the steel fingers in the old PBRs are 2.2mm thick, and the Exedy is only 2.0mm. Progress.... So I wiped the clutch plate with petrol and fitted the 1035 pressure plate. Back to Orange and its fine so far!

Unlikely... You would see the valve & pushrod as a tappet gap being wrong. The crack in the head would have to 'not lead' to oil or water systems or you would see it, and if it led to the cylinder next door it would affect both. Check the tappet gaps after you've done the compression test and let us know. A bent pushrod or bent valve will make it too big but still have good compression. A loose tappet adjuster will also have compression and a big gap. A burnt valve will have low compression but good tappet gap.

Fair enough, none of that would cause #3 to drop out. The cam chain being a tooth out would affect all 4 cyl. If the motor is shaking badly it suggests #3 will have compression, so its a spark problem most likely. See what you find- check the dizzy cap where the #3 lead meets the rotor in case there is a crack draining the spark away. Swap #3 plug with #2 and see what happens. Some small problem you will have forgotten about in a year, but the motor will be much better with the new bearings in.

Good thing you left the clamps on! I took mine out of the car by removing the clamps and they were a dog to get reassembled!

What did you do between "it used to run" and "it now runs on 3 cyls??" What did you take apart?? Maybe a tappet has no gap? Maybe a lead has died? Tell us what you did and we can pin it down. The compression test would be good, in case a valve is not opening or closing. What is the ignition timing at idle, and how did you set it??

or is this one the hotbox joint where the inlet bolts onto the exhaust manifold?? Pull it all off the motor. Put a steel ruler along the manifold faces, both inlet and exhaust, to see if they are lined up nicely. If they are not (common) you could try to loosen the hotbox nuts at the bottom of the carb and realign the two manifolds. Buy a one-piece gasket and put it back together. Make sure the bolts and studs have clean holes and threads. Check the bolts in a couple of weeks, they seem to loosen over time. I did it in here- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/27374-one-piece-manifold-gasket-who-makes-them-4k/