altezzaclub

A friend came round when I was wiring the 4AGE and gave me a thick book of Japanese car wiring diagrams. Here's the KE70 one. I'll do the KE30/55 next. Its 6144x2060 by 2.28Meg, I hope it doesn't get re-sized on the server. Fail... turns into 93Kb... can't see a thing. Photochop does the same. Send me a PM if you'd like the real size, or if you have a server that won't re-size it. A poor wiring diagram is just not worth having.

Not at all- I'm confident these small surge tanks hold enough fuel for general driving, while no surge tank makes them undriveable with less than half a tank. There's no reason to use the common pots that hold over a litre, but they are the only tanks that ever get considered. The forum is quietly dying like all of them, its just the change in social media.

Good idea.. looks just like the Girl's KE70 now.

Drove mine home today, and thought somewhere along the 550Km.." the surge tank is just fine, a Subaru fuel filter that I gutted and welded a couple of outlets onto. Why do you need a litre or more?" So you do only need 100ml or so, up and down hills and around corners.. The only piece of high-pressure line in mine is 30mm between the main pump and the filter, under the inlet manifold. From the filter it goes into the stock flexible hose, and before the main pump everything is low pressure. I'm just waiting for the posts labelled "wiring..."

OK! It runs and its just driven the 550km home!! Not dead right, a few teething problems, but it is just the way the car SHOULD have been produced! Toyota would have sold millions of them. It doesn't feel particularly fast unless the revs are up over 4500, but it is effortless in climbing hills. The temperature sits at the halfway mark, between the "e" and the "m" and doesn't move. Maybe the thermostat is set that way. It heats up sitting at roadworks and I'll get the fan thermoswitch fitted when it arrives. Slightly heavier in the steering, it doesn't dance around like it used to. Still a great car to drive in hilly country and once you turn the steering at the beginning of the corner you can hold the wheel still and change direction with the accelerator. The clutch is heavier, as is the gearlever. The T50 is not as nice and slick as a K50. Its noisy from the exhaust, I think 2" is bigger than it needs to be. You wouldn't think so living in Sydney perhaps, but after 5 or 6hours you don't want it. The cat converter has Nissan on it, and a 3" pipe into it, so its off something like a Maxima and plenty big enough for a 4AGE. Not as economical as the 4K, it does 7.9L/100 instead of 6.9. The difference is the extra 10 kph in speed and better hill work. The idle is erratic, sometimes sticking at 1500rpm, sometimes dying right back and stalling. It suffers from over-run snatch too, just touching the throttle when cruising around town where you just have your foot off. That very slight delicate transition seems to be difficult, the same with the SU carbs. Probably both problems are air leak ones. So, it would be much easier the next time around, I'll write up a new topic on how I did it. This would be one of the cheapest conversions ever done- excluding the motor and gearbox, the rest came from the wrecker or random cars around the farm. Exhaust headers- Commodore VL or VK, can't remember. Exhaust pipe & cross-member, some keen AE71 owner who had a 1.25" stock pipe across the car into a 2" system. Air filter box- Daewoo EFi/COR relay box- Daihatsu Radiator fan- Mitsi Mirage (got the radiator and the other fan too, didn't use them) Catalytic converter- some Nissan Surge tank- Subaru fuel filter Wiring plugs and wiring- Celica and Camry Fuel pumps- Holden ones The wrecker probably cost me under $200, the fuel pumps were new from Melbourne for $130, & I just stole the rest from Steve's cars at the Woolshed! I think everyone who has a KE70 should do it!

Well, it runs! Haven't driven it yet as I can't get the gearbox filler plug out and I don't know if it has g'box oil in. The T50 has the world's worst designed g'box filler!! The worst option is to drain it and fill it through the gearlever, but the trim is all re-installed so I'd have to be desperate. I've been starting it just to check systems... such as hours spent checking my wiring because the charge light stays on, only to find the solution was to change alternators! I'll have to wait until I get back home to find enough time to write an update, I need to get things finished tomorrow as I need to catch it all before my 3month rego overdue period runs out.

True- Its annoying when you're hunting down a similar problem and all the suggestions come in, but no-one tells you what happened!! C'mon Rian, what did you find??

LoL! No reason why not I suppose, but it is a one-way street! Emulsion tube next!

Ha! Another addict starts down the path to poverty! Nice score! Even an uncracked dash! Look after this one!

OK, the wiring drove me made for a week, and on the day I put up a help topic to sort out the plug problem, I realised how to get power into the system. Because it came off a guy's race car I thought everything was there, and everything that was there ran the motor.. Once I saw that you just chop the odd plug off and run fresh wires to the ECU, it was less than a day's work. I ran the wires for the 'COR box to ECU' under the rad with the alty wires, and joined them into the 4AGE loom using some wires hanging off the front by the dizzy that aren't used. That meant I could go to the footwell and have those wires right at the computer, I just had to move them over to the right pins. That's the BF, the Fc, and the STA (being power for injectors, signal to keep the fuel pumps on, and a 'start'signal) The only other wires needed were permanent 12V and ignition 12V, and there are wires doing that in the footwell loom where the wiper relay box is. So tomorrow I need to buy another set of joiners for the last wires, and see if that unobtainable outlet can be welded. The final bits are the ign 12V to the ECU, the fan thermoswitch (haven't bought one yet) and the LED for engine diagnosis. Then get it running and THEN tidy it all up and put tubes on the looms! The KE70 loom fits in nicely with the COR box and the 4AGE loom. The stock B/O and purple wires are on both sides of the bay, so one carries ign to the 4AGE coil relay (was the fuel shutoff solenoid) and the other carries the tacho signal back to the driver's pickup wire. That ign also lights up the COR relay box. The alty powers the COR box and runs under the rad to the stock KE70 setup, and the stock wires run the starter. When I get time I'll draw up a wiring diagram of it all. AND, today a very nice man dropped in a thick book called "Wiring Diagrams for Japanese Cars and said-"here, you can keep this.." !! Inside is a pristine KE70 wiring page, which I will get scanned in the highest resolution possible!! Here's the general layout-

This man wins the chicken! I chopped the squarish plug off and threw it away. Then I chopped the plugs off the unused wires hanging off the front of the 4AGE by the dizzy. Then ran new wires from the COR box on the driver's side under the rad and joined them to the 4AGE wires, giving me the inj feed to the Bf pin, the EFi relay to the Fc pin and the COR to the STA pin. That only used one pin on the whole Camry 14pin plug. The last three were +12V permanent, which came off a white wire in the kick panel to +B1 and B.... and then I RAN OUT OF JUNCTIONS!! One more wire to do, the Ign 12V from another wire in the kick panel to the BATT pin. We bought the engine from a guy who had it in his race car.... So, not really stock I expect. The mechanics of doing it are dead simple, once I realsied what the hell was going on with the plugs. However... I'll believe it if nothing catches fire!! I'll stick some photos up in The Girls KE70 topic. Thanks guys!

Well, onto it today- ignore the 14pin plug completely. Run a mini-loom of 4 wires from my Daihatsu relay box, under the radiator with the alty wires and they can connect into the plugs that terminate by the coil. Those plugs carry wires that are not needed, so I will use them to carry power back through the firewall to the ECU. Being cheap I'm using old wiring from the Celica rally car, but it gives me a chance to keep colours about right. This solves the EFi relay to injector power on the ECU, the start signal from the KE70 wire plus the Daihatsu relay box go to STA on the ECU, and the Fc fuel pump data goes from the relay box to Fc on the ECU. This way I don't need new wires running through the firewall. I will use both permanent 12V and ignition 12V from the wiper relay box just beside the ECU, so just a couple of short wires there.. Of coure it will turn to shit if one of the dead-end wires I'm using goes somewhere else as well !! That's these ones- http://www.rollaclub...ttach_id=124000 --------------------------------------- Thanks Frosty- I've got that, along with stacks of stuff from many hours on the next over the last week! Cheers

...aannd this is one option! Although the plug they show has the same shape, it has lots of multicoloured blue wires in it. Having this plug on the engine loom is a common problem for noobs, but no-one seems to have lots of black wires going ... somewhere...

Yep- read that Nikkojoe one too. Another one that seemed likely was this one- http://club4ag.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=4906 Same plug, but the 20V had all the colours different. Google images shows some bigports with that loom arm shorter than the other two, some with all three the same. RWD, FWD, Kouki, Senki..

No, that plug is one of the three on the 4AGE loom. Yep- that plug doesn't fit the ECU, but I do have a 14pin Camry one from the wrecker that does. So I need to find the right wires and solder them onto the Camry plug to give the ECU what it wants.. Gold! Thankyou Sir, some real information. So its bigport all through, but no-one sells the little loom that goes from that plug to the ECU?? It must be a body loom that goes in there. ...or do they just usually plug straight in and I've got a mismatched bigport loom and bigport ECU?? That is plan A, and I assume everyone does that. Hey, its only Walcha... I'll do beers for you! :D MAP. As far as I can see the loom is unmolested, it would all be great if there was a body loom that bought in power etc and plugged into both that plug and the ECU. How did you get your body loom to talk to the ECU loom?? Lemee go search Google images with more "Error 404" and "Image not found" for pictures of bigport looms!

Yep, I've seen that page. I figured as they say, none of the plugs are important, and they can vanish if it all runs OK. Now onto ECU wiring problems....

that's on the 4AGE motor loom. Its meant to go in the empty spot here-

OK, I've finally had to start on wiring the computer into the KE70. As far as I know its a big-port motor and loom, and a smallport ECU, all melded into a KE70 body loom and a Daihatsu Charade relay box. Sounds easy.. After a month I still couldn't understand where power went into the wiring loom, all the pins in the computer were taken and the loom looked like it had never been hacked. A closed circuit. There is NOTHING on the internet about it except "hack into blah blah and put it into pin so & so.." Only this afternoon I realised the plug I need to chop off is 6" shorter than the other two because Toyota must have made a 6" long T-piece body loom, one that supplied power and stuff for the instruments to the ECU AND down the engine loom. So, now I realise I have to chop the plug off and put some of those wires into a new loom that goes in via my Camry plug that fits the smallport ECU. I was going to pull power and ign from the wiper relay box in the footwell but might as well make up a little loom from the EFI relay & COR box up front, past the ignition key to pick up power & ign, and across the dash to the ECU. However, I don't know which wires are which in the 14pin loom. The colours don't agree with any of the wiring diagrams I've found, and some of these I will need in the computer. There are- Black-yellow White Black Green-White Yellow-Green, water temp sender Brown w black spots Yellow-black, oil pressure sender Two blacks that are joined together. Those two senders I can stick a meter on and see they come out under the bonnet. The rest should include permanent 12V, two ignition 12V, error code LED, Fc to COR to keep the fuel pumps running. What do I need to hook up from that plug to the ECU?? Does power go down any of those wires to anything important, apart from the Fc line?? The oil & water are already on the KE70 loom. I assume power goes FROM the ECU to the LED light then earths. Any clues??

I did get a relay set up for the ignition power to coil +ve. The B/O wire that powers the 4K ignition runs right around the bay and appears on the passenger's side, the ideal feed for the relay signal. I assume it was the fuel solenoid cutoff. The purple wire that runs with the B/O is on both sides too, and I'd like to use it to take the coil -ve tacho feed back to the 4K tacho wire. Does anyone know what that purple wire is for?? Its not on the flat-fronts, so they must have added something to the slanty. The oil and water sensors were pretty easy, extend one and shorten the other, and run them over the injector valley. There are three plugs on the 4AGE engine loom I don't know about. Do we need these?? Anyone know what they do? I've found a wiring diagram that tells me red is for VSV1, B/Y for STA etc, but that doesn't tell me if that particular plug is involved.

Yeah, the best ones are those that say "The photos show which wire to connect to .." "Photos moved or deleted. Discover Photobucket now" Anyway, good news and bad news.. The place is full of mudwasps now its autumn, there being a size of mudwasp for every size of bolthole. These ones do 4-6mm holes, so they buzz around your head looking in your ears and nose. This one checked out the undersie of the kettle. Then it went all over the bonnet checking out the small holes. Meanwhile, I was changing the water temp sensor and broke off the thread!! These are unobtainable, and unless someone has one lying around to sell me I'll try to get the little rim welded back on. Plan B is to drill the hole right into the channel and thread it further. But having taken that off I found the next size up mudwasp had blocked off the bleed to the waterpump completely!

Hold the driveshaft steady and turn one wheel. Usually the other wheel turns backwards, but with an LSD it will try to turn it forwards and turn the driveshaft too. If you hold one wheel and not the drivehaft, it will take a bit of grunt to force one wheel to turn against the one being held. Mind you, the best is to take the back off and look inside, while you check for bits of metal in the bottom and chipped teeth! This is getting to be a pretty serious rebuild! It will be too nice to drive on gravel when you finish!

Probably the idle jet is blocked, or a blockage anywhere in the idle circuit. As Banjo says, pull it off and clean the whole carb thoroughly. I use a small syringe without a needle on to hose petrol through alll the drillings and passages.

Well, I was wondering about this COR thing and the talk of Main EFi Fuses, and I wandered over to the spares pile.. the 20-odd cars cars lying around the farm. one was this, a demolition derby "survivor" Steve had used years ago... and under the bonnet I found this- A couple of hours spent checking each wire and relay with a multi-meter and I had an idea of the circuitry. Another hour and it was mounted like it was factory.. Now I've run out of other things to do and have to actually start chasing and joining wires! I'm amazed how uninformative or unfinished or generally useless a lot of the advice on the web is when it comes to wiring a 4AGE into a KE70! We will see how we go...

Injection and not Mikunis?? http://www.hachiroku.com.au/2009/07/why-you-should-keep-your-4a-c/ How much can you fabricate to fit the 4AGE setup onto it?? Mainly its the junction between your head ports and the 4AGE inlets, all you really are need the throttle body and the injectors while the rest is pretty plastic as to how you organise it.

Well, I thought of a gentle increase in speed as you accelerate, then it dies momentarily, then picks up, then dies again.. Dad's HQ with the small V8 used to do it, and Holden just said "they all do.." When I drove the 4AGE wagon uphill and it surged, it was violent and savage! Something would have broken in the drivline if you didn't lift off back to where it didn't surge and jerk, and just crawled up the hill. You couldn't accelerate if you wanted to. Try the lift pump on your current main pump first, that will tell you if suction is the problem.