altezzaclub

Check the thicknesses of the manifold flanges too. If there is a difference between the inlet and exhaust you will have to pack the washers on the manifold bolts. If you just do it up the thicker manifold will get all the pressure and the thinner one will leak. A bit of slightly thicker wire inserted under the washer will do, or use half-washers that you can glue onto the full washers.

You been out practicing?? hang on, maybe it was here.. These Rallyrollas are everywhere!

Bearing is destroyed, all the white metal worn off it I'll bet. Motor out, crank out check the mains and big end bearings. Get the crank ground if it needs it (which it will after the tac tac tac noise) and buy undersized bearings. Put it all back together... Option B is the big rebuild- head off, pistons out as well as crank, check everything and hopefully just give it a hone and new rings as well as new bearings.

Easiest is to grind away the inlet manifold, its only alloy. Bending the extractors might just put a tiny twist in them and they will never seal properly.

Its just such a giant job and saps any enthusiasm you have after a few months. Keeping in mind the stunning looking car when done is difficult. Maybe some big posters of immaculate show cars on the walls will do it! One of my KE70s should have a complete respray, and as I know what a soul-destroying grind it is I don't want to start!

Do you still have the oil pressure problem? Is this the next sign of a 5K on the way out? Does it smoke under acceleration or burn oil? I'm wondering if the tac tac tac noise was a broken ring and now that cylinder is fouling the plug. Pull the plugs out and see if they are all the same colour. When its idling poorly you could pull plug leads off one by one and se if you can find the weak cylinder. If they are all equal it must be something general like gav says, an air leak somewhere, dirt in the carb... Its likely something that has been disturbed while you were working on the motor doing something else, but these intermittant problems can be hard to find. I've seen a wire broken so it just rests on the coil, then comes off, then goes back on.. a leaf in a fuel tank that covers the outlet, then as soon as the motor stops it floats off until it gets sucked on again.. If the weights dry out and jam the dizzy will not advance. That can be checked by taking the cap off and seeing if the rotor & shaft can be turned a few degrees by twisting it.back & forth. You can inspect them by just popping the base plate out of the dizzy.

Just remember you have to get in and out over that diagonal in the doorway.. and the girfriend wearing a dress!

I haven't heard of water leak issues with side-drafts, and fitting twin DCOEs is pretty common. The manifolds for Webers or Dellortos will be the hardest part. For the $1000 cost of twin carbs I don't think you will get a good result without a cam grind, some head porting and a new exhaust system. The you have spent far too much on a cheap motor when you could put those extra thousands into your 4AGE. How about the Weber 32/36 or 27/36? Probably easy to find in the UK and better than stock, even if not as good as twin DCOEs. The next step up would be a single DCOE40, providing you can find the manifold.

Do a compression test and put the results up here. If its over 150psi over all 4, then I reckon the carb jetting might be the problem. A stock dizzy should pull 5000rpm, and if it does it in one gear it will do it in all. The difference of changing gears is just calling for more power from the motor, so the problem is just pumping air and fuel in and out.

..and as a further option, I picked up a Mirage alloy/plastic rad with two fans for $20 at the wreckers. It has both outlets on the driver's side, like the 4AGE. However its 700 wide while the stock one is 500odd, so I will have to cut the radiator hole much wider, like a modern car. I'll try the stock rad first and chop the car up later if I need to.

Was it between cyl 2 & 3? Can you tell if it was a failure of the gasket due to pressure or the head lifting off it due to the alloy flexing or the bolts stretching?? One soluton is to cut a groove in the block around the top of the cyls and fit a copper compression ring in it. That was the 1970s-80s idea.

Ah, maybe it was Tojo2! We're never sure what he drives in the snow!

That's right. In the KE70 that retractable part goes down inside the B-pillar panel, so there is only a metal loop at the top above your shoulder to feed it up and down. The fixed lap part just bolts on to the bottom of the B-pillar and to the tunnel by the handbrake. If the car was designed for them it will have captive nuts in those locations. If it wasn't you can drill holes through the floot anywhere it suits you and put steel plates underneath. The mounts are usually about in line with the back of the seat.

So you reckon the 4AGE will bring on some anti-tramp rods to hold the leaf springs in place? The disadvantage of the wagon is the Roman cart-spring instead of a 5-link. Rims look good! 13s are so much more natural-looking than 15s.

Nice! Did you go and have a beer and sit there thinking how good it is? That really is a great improvement over a high-performance stock casting.

Well, it runs as good as the Beast ever did, I took the inlet vac off the dizzy and left the ported vac on. Later I'll get a second charcoal canister off something newer and hook the carb overflows up to it. Still doesn't leak oil from anywhere, I'm surprised! Melbourne for a couple of weeks on Thursday, 800km odd so a full day of driving. Should be up to it, 38-40deg they reckon..... & I took the aircon out!

Like hot cams and other mods, you lose the bottom end as the air velocity is slower through a larger cross-section port. Once the air is moving faster the flow picks up more and more. What is amazing is how much faster an opening valve gains flow. At small openngs it is doubling the flow as the opening doubles, but at the top end it is not adding such a large percentage. 050=44 2X050=2X44 3X050=3X44 minus a few but 7X050=only 4X44 plus 30 8X050=4X44 plus 36 So a cam & port that gets the valve really working as it opens can add a lot of extra air. On a sort-of related topic... Why have auto engineers managed 30 years of such stunning advances in flow using swirl techiques etc, but over 100years plumbing engineers still can't design a bloody toilet that flushes properly every time!

have you been practicing??

With this much bodywork I'd be too scared to race it! Much too nice!

Do you have a moveable pitot so you can measure flow velocity at different points around the valve edge?? How much worse is it around 'A', right beside the bore??

It has an ECU, but only a couple of the plugs fit the loom that came with it. I grabbed the needed one from an old Camry and I'll tackle it all later in the summer, when I'll need your technical experience more than anything!!

You can see the feet on it, they bolted onto box sections welded to the floor & sill. We had welded captive nuts inside the boxes as we built them. The pipes slide into the next-diameter-up stubs with two bolts holding them together. All past by CAMS. More in here- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/69126-how-to-build-a-rally-car/page__st__30

Then I chased the gearbox. After a lot of excuses they said "its rooted, and we don't want to put it back together" That was a shock as we'd been driving The Girl's Beast around for 5years or so and the box never worried me! Sure it had worn-out synchros but it wasn't noisy at all. Anyway, they said the hardening was worn off the shafts and blah blah blah.. So I gave up and grabbed the last one out of our spare KE70s.. That cleaned up OK and I could put the motor and box into the Hoonicorn- Finally Hoonicorn things were sorted and it fired up. Runs just like the Beast, very grumpy at idle and pulls well to 5000, and after that it doesn't worry me. The trip back to Orange showed a bad driveline vibration. An annoying slight one had been there ever since the engineer welded the Celica diff flange onto the K50 tailshaft, but it was much worse. It sprayed gearbox oil all over the underside of the car, so much I got worried and bought a bottle of g'box oil after a few hundred Km then stopped to put it in. Of course it didn't have a tube or spout in the bottle, so getting the oil into the box was impossible. Once home I bought a new g'box seal, then found the one we pulled out was almost new! Some careful inspection showed me the driveshaft center bearing was in backwards, and although it looks quite symmetrical its not, and it moves the driveshaft sideways. I dropped it down from the body by the thickness of an extra washer too, and re-aligned the UJs along the shaft. That all got the vibration back to what it used to be like, annoying at 50-60kph and nowhere else, and since then I've put a circlip around it on the front of the rear shaft, and turned that until the vibration has almost vanished. Steve bought a pair of the headlight relay kits off Fleabay and I fitted one to the Hoonicorn. The Beast still has the original relay setup I made, and these factory-made ones are much neater. Next job was the faint washing-machine sound out of the Celica diff. We were given a free stove by a workmate of Mrs Altezzaclub, and I took that up to the farm in the N14 Pulsar hatch, along with the Hoonicorn's Celica axles, diff center and a pair of wheel bearings. The stove replaced one considerably more ancient, and the diff man in Walcha fitted new axle bearings and went over the CW/pinion setup. Murphy arrived and said "did you notice the two bearing kits they supplied have different shrink rings inside?" So I drove back with the axles and diff, and my mate Rob fitted the shrink rings last night. Now its back on the road, and I need to go over the ignition timing. This motor seems more susceptible to running up rpm at idle, and its the SUs working against the timing weights. I have the weight springs to play with, the inlet vacuum advance, the ported vac advance and the carbs dashpot oil, all of which affect idle. I also need to get down to Melbourne with it in November to paint my son's house, and finally back up to the Woolshed to do something about the Beast sitting there with a 4AGE & T50 in the engine bay, but no air filter/exhaust/radiator/driveshaft/ECU... plenty to learn about there!!

The two 4Ks were stripped with the blocks on stands. I tipped the Hoonicorn block over and cleaned out the rust and scale inside, getting a handful out of the area around the #4 cyl before going home one evening. The Beast's head, complete with carbs and extractors was swapped onto the Hoonicorn's block, which had 10psi more compression across all 4 cyls. The cam went in as well, and the electronic dizzy, even the radiator. The remaining 4K bits were stored in the Woolshed, and all I needed was the box back. Somewhere along the way I noticed the passenger-side engine mount rubber was split, and the same on the Beast's, and even the same on MAO's original 4K. So the rotation when dropping the clutch must be a bit much for that rubber. Anyway, I made a metal plate that slipped under the mount and hooked over the top to limit its lift to a couple of mm.

With that ready I could start on the cars- First, both steering columns and both dashboards came out, along with both pedalboxes. I'm getting pretty damm good at dashes & pedalboxes now! The Golden Hoonicorn lost its aircon system too, and both motors with their gearboxes came out. That gave me a massive pile of bits to sort and clean, and I added an AE71 crossmember & hydraulic pedalbox.. All cleaned and painted, and I tackled the clutch holes. New cable clutch hole in the Hoonicorn and a hydraulic master cyl hole in the Blue Beast. Then slowly over the next week parts were cleaned and assembled. The K50 showed a sign of leaking from the front seal, so for about a $100 I sent off to the gearbox shop. While I waited the pedalboxes were fitted and the steering back in place, and both dashes replaced. Holes were cut in both floors, one auto to K50 gearlever and the other K50 to T50.