altezzaclub

Grab it Ollie, I bought a VL Commodore intank and external pump from my wrecker last week. Got a photo blzbub?

uh-oh... I had the panels on my Datsun 1600 stripped years ago, then it sat in the garage waiting for me to do something about painting it. It was a handy shelf for light stuff.. When the painter got hold of it he said "boot's flked, it has taken a shallow dent right across it from somethng being left on it.".!

I'll know when I have one in my hands, but I'm planning up on the firewall somewhere. The tank return at the top would keep it full, and the outlet to the main pump would be the bottom one. You just need 4 outlets, some high some low, so it ahould do it. We ran the 2L 18RG rally car on a 300ml one without a problem, I reckon a 1litre or 2litre just takes up too much room. A litre would be 13Km worth of winding road!!

Do nothing... they don't do much of the braking. If you get a bigger diff like a T-series from a Celica they will come with larger diameter shoes and bigger slave cylinders. I looked around the wreckers a few days back for small ventilated front discs and the best contenders were from a Suzuki Swift or a Mirage, the late 80s early 90s sort of era. Both of them would take some machining to get the discs to fit, and then the calipers would need mounting. The problem is the change in design for FWD that happened soon after the KE70s. I'll look into it more as having something that works better but is light and small would be nice, rather than going for heavier struts to carry heavier hubs and heavier discs that take heavier calipers and the whole unsprung weight gets out of hand.

I'll be interested to see how it looks, owning a slanty and a flatty. I'm planning on trimming the plastic ones shorter to tuck up against the body like a chrome one. This is the surge tank I'm planning on using. Cheap enough, just need to swap fitings to suit, and takes up no room. Maybe I'll get the square one the same size.

Its a lovely dream, but sadly I usually find whines come from worn bearings or teeth. An LSD should be just as silent as a stock one. Jack up one wheel and see if it spins, or just drop the clutch on some gravel. Good luck!

Get Celica or Corona or any of the larger Toyotas with macpherson struts from about the same age. AE86 will do if you can afford them. You can convert them to adjustable coil-over design or just lower the spring seat to get the car low enough, but at least you have 52mm shock tubes that will take a wide range of inserts. The 65 series will give you shorter struts and ventilated discs. Mitsi Sigma lower control arms should widen the track and give negative camber. Camber tops are available too. The rear end would benefit from a sway bar, a couple of paralell links and a panhard rod, all of which you'll need to fabricate onto the shell. If you find a Celica/Corona to get parts from, get the diff too as it will be wider & can take an LSD. You could get stuff sent from here, but it may be easier to buy modern coil-overs over there.

No-one would bother, just get another pair or something else that fits. The bend will be really small, but you won't know until you strip them and check one against the other. If you're keen then strip it to bare, put the bearing nut on, put a metre of pipe over the nut & stub axle and heat the strut tube up in a vice. Lean on the pipe until it reaches some mark you made on the bench when you had the good strut in there. That's all we used to do on the cheap-arse rally car before we could afford decent stuff. That's also where we learned we couldn't get a weld to stick to the cast stub body, but maybe a professional welder can. You'll have to get them pretty exact, it would be a disaster to get positive camber! ...and don't smash it through potholes or up kerbs, or bottom the strut out, which is probably what happened to it!

Use a completely different diff from another car.... You might find something in Japan if you have enough money, but it would have been hand-made at TRD 40years ago I expect. The most likely one would be a T-series out of a later Corolla or Celica or whatever which would need the mounts changed. Then $1500 for an OS-Giken LSD. Here's our T-series http://www.ae86drivi...eries-diff-info Good luck- PS- do the cheap man's method, weld fill a couple of teeth in the spider gears and run that. If you don't weld the teeth together like most people do it will give you a 1/4turn before it locks, enough to help it turn in.

Yeah, bent strut. You might see a tiny bulge right where the tube goes into the cup. That's where the green arrow points. Stand the bare struts side by side on a brick on a flat bench so the stubs ends hang over the side and measure from the stub axle to the bench. Only a mm or two on the stub will make 5mm difference on where the tyre rubs. Alternatively get a wheel aligment and see what camber you have. You could strip the strut, heat it up to red hot with a gas axe down by the cup and bend it straight, but it will tend to deform back again unless you reinforce it with a gusset. Then the problem becomes welding a gusset onto a cast stub cup.... That's the red line.

Does unsprung weight play a part in this? You will be getting a lot more Kg banging up and down on the end of the strut in the same weight car. Moreso if you fid larger rims and tyres. I was wandering around the wreckers looking for light, small ventilated discs to use on stock struts yesterday. Suzy Swift or Lancer seem the most likely, something we can still fit behind 13" or 14" wheels with stockish calipers. Sadly the FWD designs are so different to an old Corolla now.

We loaded the Slodeo up as a mobile workbench and headed for the hangar on the other farm Gramps, his immaculate old Corona, was up for rego, but just like Grumpy had been for years before the rebuild, it blew oil and vapour out everywhere. The plan was to chuck in 40-70 oil and take it for a pink slip as rego was due and it hardly gets driven. But we did a compression test... and got zero on #4! Seeing rego was due and we didn't want to pull the head off that motor, we figured we would get The Big Girl's Celica 18RG out of hourable retirement and swap that in. It meant changing sumps & oil pickups, so the rally 18RG went up on the crane. Then Gramp's motor, but when Steve took the sump off there was strange stuff inside! So THAT motor was retired to the Wheelbarrow of Waiting and parked with the other 5 18RGs in the spares shed, all of which require rebuilds! The rally car motor dropped into Gramps the next day and was pretty well all done by afternoon, the different throttle connection meaning we needed to swap the Solexes back on instead of Webers and we didn't get time. The next morning we had the cambelt kit & MAO came alive. Within a hour or two I was in the Blue Beast and heading back to Orange, leaving Steve to finish off Gramps & get it through rego. All a rush, but that's what life is all about!

Well, while Steve has been trying to earn money working on farms (apart from working for Pete, his dad) he's actually been breaking cars faster than he can fix them! The 4AGE KE70 daily, MAO, died a couple of weeks back, leaving no error codes. Then Steve came down to Orange in Grumpy, the rat road Corona with the pink 18RG, and didn't make it home. Seeing I'd built that engine I figured it was time for a trip up there again. We pushed the rally car outside and started on MAO. The lack of error codes had turned out to be a lack of error code light, so once Steve had a bulb in one hand and two wires in the other he was reading 22 and 12. Turns out the thermosensor was not working. We cleared the wiring and found the weight of the loomb across the back of the motor had torn a wire off, so we had to pull the plug apart and solder the wire back on, all very fiddly. With the error codes gone it still wouldn't start, until I notice the engine didn't rock as he spun it. No compression.... 5 minutes showed no cam belt turning, and then no teeth on the bottom of the belt! Luckily they're not interference motors and we ordered one for the Monday. So we pushed MAO out and pulled in Grumpy, and lifted out the pink 18RG. Unsurprisingly, taking the head off showed a lot of ring damage in the head, and a big piece burnt out of #3 piston, the cylinder that had the groove around the bore that the engine shop said would be fine... It probably would be fine in a stock 18RG, but not a high-compression one. More worrying was one broken compression ring in every other cylinder, which means detonation. That was that, push Grumpy outside and start on the next!

..and Steve had a thermo-sensor error and a "no-spark" error code up, so we spent a couple of hours on that. Once we had fixed the broken wire that was causing the thermo-sensor error the "no-spark" code vanished too. Then when he was trying to start it I notice the engine didn't rock. A quick check showed the cam gears weren't turning... and the cam belt had stripped teeth down on the crank! A new cambelt kit and its up and going! Damm error codes! We should have started with "Does it have fuel, spark and compression..?" Still, the manual was fascinating.

Don't get too carried away! Its not a show car and you need to be driving it!

So does this count as the mark3 version, or the mark4 one?? "The 3K Rallyrolla", the 2TG Rallyrolla"... "the 3T-C Rallyrolla" At least now you know every nut and bolt on the car!

With great difficulty! Although my XX has a woodgrain auto shifter top, something that Steve swears is not factory. I reckon it is, part of the XX mistique...

Get the 4AGE diagnostic manual off the net, or send me a PM with your email address and I can send you a copy. Its 6Meg so I can't post it here. It is the proper Toyota manual for their agent's workshops. Work your way through and sort out why #1 is not firing, or overfuelling. Do you get any error codes? (Don't thank me, thank Parrot, who gave it to me!)

Good thing California doesn't have roads like NSW, the potholes here would've torn the suspension off! So, motor out, guard off and a long of panel steel...

I've just spoken to two engineers about this- First one said all it needs is a sliding-plate brake test to make sure the brakes are up to the increase in power. $700 odd Second one said all it needs is an emissions test to make sure the new motor is cleaner than the old. $1000 odd

Fair enough- Don't be afraid to strip and clean them then reassemble them, they are every simple inside. Look for wear and grooves on the tips of the vanes, you can google a measurement for feeler gauges between the vane tips and the rotor itself, and between the rotor side and the housing. The other area that wears and lets oil slip backwards is between the end plate and the rotating parts. There will be a measurement for this endplay as well, but you can easily see worn pump parts from high mileage or from dirty oil.

""Holy cap what a difference a GOOOD wheel alignment can do. Feels fantastic now."' 'cos a pretty average one can leave it feeling quite wrong... stodgy or dodgy. Damm it looks good now!

nope- only within the tube, then the pressure would drop more as soon as the oil flowed around the engine. The bigger tube would allow more flow, which would turn into pressure when contrained in the bearings. Anyway, are the gears the same height in all the pumps? The gear housing on the mid sump 5mge from ms123 in the left of the photo seems to be higher than the others. Are the gears larger? Pop the three pumps apart and check inside for wear anyway, and measure the lobes against one another.

If you run into problems its $50 for an adjustable fuel pressure regulator.

part of an explanation here- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/62830-ke30-55-efi-in-tank-fuel-pump/ Now many pipes do you have in the tank?