altezzaclub

Fair enough- Don't be afraid to strip and clean them then reassemble them, they are every simple inside. Look for wear and grooves on the tips of the vanes, you can google a measurement for feeler gauges between the vane tips and the rotor itself, and between the rotor side and the housing. The other area that wears and lets oil slip backwards is between the end plate and the rotating parts. There will be a measurement for this endplay as well, but you can easily see worn pump parts from high mileage or from dirty oil.

""Holy cap what a difference a GOOOD wheel alignment can do. Feels fantastic now."' 'cos a pretty average one can leave it feeling quite wrong... stodgy or dodgy. Damm it looks good now!

nope- only within the tube, then the pressure would drop more as soon as the oil flowed around the engine. The bigger tube would allow more flow, which would turn into pressure when contrained in the bearings. Anyway, are the gears the same height in all the pumps? The gear housing on the mid sump 5mge from ms123 in the left of the photo seems to be higher than the others. Are the gears larger? Pop the three pumps apart and check inside for wear anyway, and measure the lobes against one another.

If you run into problems its $50 for an adjustable fuel pressure regulator.

part of an explanation here- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/62830-ke30-55-efi-in-tank-fuel-pump/ Now many pipes do you have in the tank?

Do it! Great package so just beat him down to what you can afford then make him help you with it! :P

Easy enough. Just have a think about what you want to do with the motor over the next couple of years. If the bottom end is strong then just whip the head off and either have an engineering shop cut the valves and seats or grind them yourself. You can also open the ports up and have the head skimmed for more compression... which leads onto extractors, sports exhaust, round cam, Weber carb... The stuff I did on the girls KE70. How fast do you want to go and how much to spend? For the price of a couple of gaskets and a new valve you could do it yourself dead cheap without adding any improvements..

Yep- that's the problem we ran into with Celcia struts on the KE70. We ended up getting AE86 tapered coils off Kings Springs for them.

Surely its just simple engineering... Cut the spring base off the KE70 strut and re-weld it on, just like we did on the rally car. If you want to lower it 50mm, weld it on 50mm lower. Cut 50mm out of the strut tube and reweld it. Then shorten the shock shaft by the same amount. Just cut it near the top, grind to points and re-weld. If you're not a welder then pay an engineer to do it. That lowers the whole system by 50mm and retains all the factory relationships. If you want it stiffer learn about the wet struts and close up or stiffen the valves that the oil passes through. You could cut the springs and move the spring base upwards to keep the same low ride height, but the spring will be stiffer. Cars raced in Formulae One with shocks like those for decades!

Is that the manifold gasket on the head or just a pattern to work from?? What's it made of?

Fair enough- You'll feel the difference!

I don't know which brand Richo bought for the 345K, but I'm sure we got 6cc. Measure it up when you've got it all, it will be interesting to see how it works out. Someone used 80mm flat-top VW pistons apparently, but I've never managed to find them. Anyway, if you're skimming from 35 to 30 it will make a tremendous difference. He went from 4K to 5K bore, dropped some compression from the dish, then skimmed 20thou off the head. It was chalk and cheese from before...

The diff drain/fill plugs often don't have gaskets or washers at all. I re-use sump washers regularly without any problem. If you pull the whole cover off you can just silicon it back on. I clean the surfaces up with brake-clean and try to use as little silicon as possible.

You might be 2cc light on that piston dish, I thought they were 6cc. ..and the head gasket is also around 7cc depending on how thin you reckon it gets. I measured the last one I took off as 1.5mm thick. That would make the TDC volume 45 going into 428, a lot lower at 9.5 .... I thought 30-31cc was about normal for a combustion chamber, and I know when you put the 5K pistons in a 4K you don't get any increase in compression even tho' they're bigger. The increase in compression from that is taken out by the dish.

...and understeer around this corner, and ooops, understeer around this corner, and gosh, understeer around THIS corner, and running really wide here... until the tail steps out and you're a passenger! Excel is probably faster tho'....

Forgot to mention- At idle with a warm motor the vacuum in the inlet manifold pulls oil down the inlnet valve stems past the seals. As soon as you drive away the oil burns out as blue smoke and stops as there is no vacuum in the manifold under throttle. So you just get one cloud then nothing. In contrast, worn rings let oil up to be burned under acceleration, and that smoke doesn't stop coming out as you drive. So you get a continuous cloud behind you. How are the compression readings? Maybe all the rings are worn...

Which carbs?? Doesn't matter, just get in it and drive over to Rollake10's place so you can both spend this weekend in the Finnish forests with the WRC!! Only 1000km each way..... but what an experience!

The noise is a pain, the pump has to be really seperated from the chassis. It has to sit in a tube of foam where no part of the pump touches any part of the body. That setup should work OK, just get the hoses in the right order so it always stays full of fuel.

The revs often mask the problem, such as a head gasket blown. Do a compression test to make sure the valves are OK in #2 cyl. Look for traces of oil in the radiator, water under the oil filler cap, and difficulty starting in the morning but OK after that to get an idea on the head gasket. Another way is to fill the radiator to overflowing one morning before starting it, then fire it up and leave it idling until the water in the rad gets warm. If it overflows with bubbles coming out before the thermostat opens then the head gasket is leaking. Swap plugs and see if the missfire follows the #2 plug. Then swap two leads for the same test in case its a lead. Check the dizzy cap inside and out for black dirt lines around the #2 socket, it may have a crack. Take off the manifolds, clean up the manifold faces and the head, and make sure all the nuts and studs have clean threads and go right to the end of the threads. Then fit a one-piece gasket, not from Toyota.. This one- http://www.rollaclub...-makes-them-4k/

Look over The girls KE70 in my sig below, what we did cost very little and was very educational. Any questions, post 'em up... it all depends on what you want to do with the car. If it hasn't got a K50 5-speed gearbox I'd do that first. Then do a compression test on both motors and pick the best for a better carb & exhaust system. Compare the front and rear shocks on both cars you have and pick the stiffest too.

You could assume that by the time you pull a 50x75 plate through the parcel shelf the G-forces would have killed you... Seeing you're pulling paralell to the parcel shelf plane the leverage the parcel shelf has is immense. But if you want extra safety you could just bolt a 100x150x3mm plate on the harness bolt under the parcel shelf with an extra nut. That way if the 50x75 pulls through the shelf the 100x150 will then jam against the underside of the shelf. At least it keeps the corpse in the car! I'm a great believer in spreading the load, so letting something fail and give a little before the next thing kicks in. The other point that always amuses me is the strength of seat mounts. If the seat mount fails the harness holds you and the seat in place. If the harness fails you exit via the window and the seat doesn't help at all. I haven't looked at how CAMS logs track/hillclimb stuff. We have had the rally rego passed this last year so the whole car gets a rego inspection by a "super-scrutineer" once, then checks at each event. That was the first attempt to get all scrutineering the same, as some guys would allow something and others wouldn't. Phone the scrutineer for the event you want to enter from last year's supplementary regs and ask him just to make sure.

Parrot you're a star! Steve ph'd last night to say the 4AGE had died 50km out of Tamworth with no spark, so he had to truck it back home on the Mothership. ...and this morning the whole 4AGE manual appears on Rollaclub! Sorry Luke, back to the Blue Thing....

Good ldea! Looks great now!

We have a Supercrap gun and it is terrible! It doesn't have an air supply pressure control on the gun at all, and the fan spread control doesn't work. The front cone doesn't seal against the gun body either. I put wire into each of the fan nozzles to cut down the size of the fan and lessen the overspray, but we're using plain white enamel designed for spraying steel & thinned with turps! (its cheapest...) Find yourself a new gun after reading a stack of "how to spray cars" on the net and talking to a couple of spray painters. Just keep adding thinners until it looks like milk, and if you drop the pressure you won't get so much overspray. The only way is to try it out, like you say. Why not ... Ah, I know why, you have a wagon and your boot floor is a different shape to a sedan, so I suppose you don't have a little corner on the driver's side behind the diff where you can hide the surge tank! Just by the panhard rod mount.

You don't think the shroud cuts off too much of the normal air flow?? The fans will never come on unless you're stopped at the lights after a good hard run up the mountain.. Even then that's unlikely in Tassie! We're just running one fan and it never comes on. What psi are you painting at? Its really all to do with how good the spraygun is, but I usually spray at about 30psi or less, just enough to atomise the paint well. How is the surge tank going?? Is it in the engine bay or under the car at the back? I figure the front is fine, the lift pump can push a lot of fuel at low pressure up here and the injection pump can boost it to 60psi right next to the motor. Damm nice work, I'll have to get you up to the Woolshed sometime, we really need someone who is fanatical about getting it clean and just right!