altezzaclub

You don't think the shroud cuts off too much of the normal air flow?? The fans will never come on unless you're stopped at the lights after a good hard run up the mountain.. Even then that's unlikely in Tassie! We're just running one fan and it never comes on. What psi are you painting at? Its really all to do with how good the spraygun is, but I usually spray at about 30psi or less, just enough to atomise the paint well. How is the surge tank going?? Is it in the engine bay or under the car at the back? I figure the front is fine, the lift pump can push a lot of fuel at low pressure up here and the injection pump can boost it to 60psi right next to the motor. Damm nice work, I'll have to get you up to the Woolshed sometime, we really need someone who is fanatical about getting it clean and just right!

Well, put the car on stands and take out the shocks and springs. That's only half an hour. Put in the coilovers without their springs on and jack the diff right up. See if the diff hits the bumpstops before the coilovers bottom out. If that happens then you won't bottom the coilovers out when driving and it should be fine to use them. If the coilovers bottom out first then its not going to work, you'll bend a shock shaft or punch them up through the boot floor, or rip the shock mount off the diff... It may be fine for the times you're in it by yourself, but the day you have three mates in, or someone asks you to deliver a heavy load in the boot... then it will all fall apart! The AE86 guys use them all the time. They should just bolt sraight on, but I'd check that they won't crash out if I were you.

When you next turn it off from warm watch the fuel filter for five minutes. One of my KE70s boils the fuel from the residual heat in the motor and pushes the petrol back out of the pump, out of the filter and back down the line. Then the dry pump can't suck fuel until it has all cooled down and vacuumed the fuel back along the line. An alternative is to pull the fuel line to the carb off the pump and crank the motor over to see if fuel is being delivered at the next time it won't start. ...or take the aircleaner lid off and look down the throat while you open the throttle on the carb. The pump jet shold squirt a jet of fuel down the carb throat while you watch. These will tell you if there is fuel in the carb, in which case the problem is elsewhere. Sometimes coils or condensors can break down from heat, but that is pretty rare.

Well, its all just tuning. What are the tappet gaps on the valves? They are not crucial for power, although if you lose 5thou in the gap it is 5thou less the valve opens. More of an effect would be the change in cam timing from the wrong tappet gap, making the valve open too late or close too early.. Cam timing IS crucial, so that needs to be checked carefully. The Datsuns used holes in the cam gear and a pin on the cam to locate the timing, & we used to drill extra holes to get a wider range of options. Ignition is vital, so make sure the spark timing is advancing as the revs go up and maxs out where it should. About 35deg I expect. Then its all up to fuel and carbs. Does it pull up to 6000rpm? Does it pull all the way up there smoothly, or has flat spots? Does it splutter if you boot it quickly? ..and the idle... all to do with carbs. Do all throats sound the same if you listen with a plastic tube in one ear? That balance between all four throats is important. Ah.. so much to go wrong!

You could re-machine it so it screws in further to touch the seat, if it is long enough. There must be hundreds lying around, I gave my stock carb to a mate when I fitted the SUs, and I think its lying in his shed. I'll ask him if I remember. My auto was also a pain going from either too high an idle speed in neutral, or stalling when put in drive, especially when cold, which is most of the time. My solution is to fit a 4AGE, or option B is to hot the motor up with cam and quad carbs.... Set the idle speed to idle in gear when warm, which is what I did. I think it was about 800rpm, but then it goes up to over 1000 in neutral.

30" of mercury is a full vacuum, and that would be correct as at idle as the throttle plate is shut and the inlet manifold under max vacuun. My AFR moves up and down from 14.7 to 18, that being a mix of the SU carb characteristics and the cam makig idle grumpy. 16-18 is lean, but I cruise at 100kph at that and go up slight hills until I push the throttle down. With adjustable jets on the SUs I have set them to be that lean at idle. Your leaness might be from the groove in the idle needle, it lets in too much air no matter what you do with it, or maybe a tiny leak somewhere. Being lean like that makes the electroics work hard as its harder to fire a plug. So spark plugs, leads, dizzy components ... any weakness will show then, apart from a leak, as you say. Thne again, its a 35year old motor, a miss at idle is not much to worry about!

It shouldn't be crucial, but I expect it will be a coarser adjustment than factory now. Make sure you clean the drillways out behind the jets too. I use a syringe (no needle) full of petrol to squirt through them, but anything that hoses solvent through will do. The cans of carb cleaner are good, and even an air-gun if you have a compressor.

The spring rates and shock rates can be copied into the stock setup, so you can have the same result with either system. The coilover spring will be softer to match the stock one. The coil-over is fractionally more efficient with the coil and shock mounted in the same place, but I reckon you'd never notice the difference. However coilovers let you change the ride height by winding the base up and down, and I'd say that's the main advantage. Thinking about it for the rally car....

If you haven't replaced the one in the dizzy, do so. That condenseor builds up the spark to fire the coil. If that doesn't fix it, check the coil resistance and the leads. As Banjo said, the coil capacitor is for radio noise suppression.

Gold! It will run fine with these jets, not as good as it absolutely can if you have non-standard parts like cut cams or extractors, but good enough though- Idle problems are somewhere else, like leaks or throttles not set up properly. OK, disconnect the two carbs, take out a linkage or something. Open the throttle maybe 1/4, and let it go. It must close on each carb with a sharp distinct clunk! If it doesn't then the throttle butterflies are not squared up on the shafts and that can give high idle. You will have to loosen the screws holding the butterflies on their shafts carefully, settle them in on a closed throttle then tighten them again. Hopefully you won't have to, but many many Webers I've sorted out have had this problem.

Take those jets out & look at the bottoms. Those are the air jets, the fuel jets are at the bottom of the emulsion tube. Sit on Google and learn about (yet ANOTHER thing to learn about on cars..) side-draught carbs! Lots of Weber stuff on the net, most of which is similar. The fuel gets sucked up through the bottom, the air gets sucked in down that 200 jet ad they mix in the emulsion tube. The air has more effect at higher revs, the emulsion tube has a lesser effect than the air & fuel jets, but all three can be changed to get the best match. What sort of gaskets between the carbs and the manifold?? There are 'soft-mounts' you can buy for that, they have rubber O-rings to absorb engine vibrations so you don't get frothing in the float bowl. They are delicate, can't be done up too tight and must be checked for leaks every now & then. here's a starting point- (which I haven't read, I must confess, I just saw the jet pictures..) http://www.ozgemini.com/forums/tech/viewtopic.php?t=19014

Education is expensive, and the better the education the more expensive it is! So by the time its running beautifully and looking great, you will have learnt more than most of us about turboe'd motors and all the other mechanical systems like cooling & gearboxes and diffs to go with them. It will make a great car when sorted! Keep it for 10years and it cost a grand a year, cheaper than a new car.

You could gusset the shock mount on the diff and plate the top mount area in the boot. ...or you could leave it like it is and see what happens! Maybe its fine just as they produced it, PROVIDING you don't lower the car enough to bottom out! Bottom out hard in a bump & I'd say you could knock the shock mount clean off the diff, although rally cars have ripped the top mount out of the boot before now.

How does it drive now? Big difference?

When you're ready to start it, put the suction-side line of the fuel pump into a jar of petrol. That eliminates a blocked filter and dirty lines. If the pump won't suck that up then take the top off it and check the valves carefully for dirt under them. If it is clear there then the problem is in the diaphram or the cam arm. You should be able to take the pump off the car and pump fuel out of a jar by working the lever with your hands. This is more-or-less what its like-. http://www.autorepairnewark.info/how-can-mechanical-and-electric-fuel-pumps-work.html

They might have had the paralell 4-link in the way Rob, somewhere down the outside edges of the diff where the shocks would come up through the floor if vertical. ...and they think that car was heavy!!!

It has a one-way ratchet on the adjuster inside the drum, so it turns one way only (The tightening way..) For the life of me I cannot remember if both wheels turn "upwards, or one goes in each direction! A flatblade screwdriver in the 'impossible to get at' slot in the back of the drum, and lots of patience. Anyway, you will need to adjust them by hand until they just touch the drums somewhere in a wheel turn, then the automatic bit can keep it there. Before you let the jack down give them a couple of pumps when you have them just touching, which may recenter the shoes and take a bit more adjustment.

Pop the carb fuel line off and put it in a jar then crank it. That will show if the fuel pump is getting fuel there, so if fuel fills the jar then the problem is probably inside the carb. However, you're trying to run a two cylinder motor if the head gasket is blown. Water getting sucked back in will sit on the plugs and stop them firing. Do a compression test before you take the head off, it will give you an idea of how good the rings and valves are, and how much money you should put into it...

Ah- Can you post up the jets sizes for us? Might be someone who knows Solexes on here. Air jet & fuel jet on the mains would be the ones, it might be really lean. ..and the 'choke' size in the venturi throat. I assume all 4 pump jets shot out fuel. For Webers we'd be running 36chokes with 170 airs and 140 fuels or thereabouts.

Lookin' good! If this motor goes like it should you will be amazed, excited and estactic with the performance, a massive change from the K.

It doesn't affect the performance of the heater, its just takes more pressure than a long rubber hose will. If you disconnect one hose at the motor, does water pour out of the hose via the heater? Have you tried putting a garden hose on one end and seeing if water pours out the other?? The problem with that test is blowing the soldered joints open on the heater, so it wouldn't pay to put too much pressure down the pipe. But if you can get water circulating through the pipes & heater & heater control valve, you've covered half the problem. The other half is as Taz says, the controls for the flaps so air is actually flowing past the heater coils into the car. In six months we'll all be trying to get the aircon working! I'll just edit this in- Its a circuit, so the water flows from the end with more pressure to the end with less pressure. On the KE70, the water pump pushes water into one hose (driver's side) and sucks from the other (passenger's). The KE30 have one hose going to the back of the head, which I think is the low-pressure end. It will work with just rubber hoses.

First, go and see if the electrical idle shut-off valve is working. It should, 'click' when someone turns the ignition on and off. If it is disconnected or broken, the car won't idle... Perhaps it was disconnected when the carby kit was put through.

Is that an air jet? If the top is wider than the thread, then the O-ring goes just under the top rim and seals against the carb body, like your left-hand picture. If the screw is straight-sided then the O-ring must seal under it, like your right-hand picture but right underneath the top screw. It should screw down firmly on something, not just sit somewhere without screwing in properly. I'm a Weber man unfortunately, so I haven't had Solexes apart.

Put some fuel in the carbs and make sure the pump jets squirt it all over the floor before you fit the carbs back on. On a Weber you can shoot a jet of fuel right across the garage. That sounds like a blocked pump jet, unless the jets are much much too small so it is very lean.

In this picture, the easiest way to make an oil pump 'bigger' is to lengthen the star gear and the ring called a rotor set, and fit the same length steel spacer around the outside of them. http://www.japan-parts.eu/EU/4/MA0427H.png So at the same revs the oil pump pushes more oil, and Toyota did this with some pumps. The pressure release valve is built in, as you can see, and on a new pump it should be dead clean. Its an odd problem.. maybe it is sucking air in, or maybe the oil is leaking out somewhere, but it obviously gets worse when the oil can flow more easiiy. If it was something like worn bearings I'm sure you'd hear them knocking. Can you get it so you can see if oil is flying around in the cams?? Take off the oil filler cap? I wondered if you are still getting flow up there when the pressure is on the red light. We had an 18RG motor where the cam grinder left the plugs out of the back of the cams, so as oil went in it just flowed straight out the back and didn't build up enough pressure to push it out of the lobes. Odd things happen.