altezzaclub

Is the 4M pump the same (vane) size as the 5M? You only get oil pressure when its cold as the oil is thick, so you see pressure but you won't get much flow as it is hard to pump through the oilways. Once its warmed up it flows much easier and hence the pressure drops and the flow increases, so a low pressure when warm is to be expected. So either the pump isn't pumping enough volume to give pressure when warm, or the oil is leaking out too fast to get the pressure to build up as Styler said. I assume the new pump had a new oil pressure relief valve on it?? No chance of shit under the ball?

haha! There's nothing better than a long list with lots crossed out!

Called a rear axle with one wheel jacked up and the motor idling in reverse gear...

Tackle it one system at a time & take lots of photos! The cross-member just bolts on, as you will find. I'd take the motor/box out and clean it up, check everything like electrical connections and leaks, then put it aside. Strip the donor suspension & cross-member and clean and paint it all. Get it all ready before you strip the new car so its the minimum length of time between undoing one motor and bolting up the other. Then pull it out of the new car, cleaning the engine bay when the motor is out. Pop the good stuff in and bolt it up. The back end is dead easy. Its all just simple spanner work actually.

I would say so. The diagram doesn't have any switch (such as an ignition key) between the battery and the computer etc, which is a bit of a worry. I assume the ignition key goes after the 10A fuse and before the circuit splits into the 4x15A fuses. Then the relays have to splice into the coloured wires that go into the ECU. The fuse setup itself looks weird, why have 15A fuses after a 10A, and why have more than one 15A. The ECU surely doesn't pull anywhere near 60amps... Got any other circuits that people have used??

Time to start learning about your new car... I'd drain the fuel out the bottom of the tank and see what it looks like. If its got rust in it you might have to seal the tank to start with. Check the fuel filter, and the pump. The filter will impede flow if its full of crap, and the pump will behave badly if it has shit under a valve. The top of the pump should unscrew to show the valves. The needle & seat in the carb may have a bit of crap in it, pop it out and clean it. By then you'll have the fuel feed to the carb pretty clean. As Dave said, vac leaks could be the cause, some split in a rubber hose somewhere. That will take a while to check over them all. More likely a fuel issue than an electrical one from sitting, I've had to clean out the jets AND the drilled channels iin the carb before now, the fuel dries to tar and the dirt blocks the tunnels. The electrical options would include the weights seizing up under the dizzy plate and not advancing/retarding correctly sometimes, so that is a strip & a clean too.

I haven't tried to buy sills for a few decades, but they turned up from the manufacturer or from someone making copies at one time. Option B is to cut them out of a good shell at the wrecker and weld them in. Option C is to get an engineer to fold a pair up, remembering you don't need the whole shape as some of yours will still be fine. The factory steel folds upwards at the B pillar, while you can cut straight across the bottom of that.

If the ignition light is on then the alty shouldn't be charging. This might help- Both alty styles are shown.

Ah, I see Taz, thanks. So they run the KE70 in the opposite direction. It must be under the dash then.

WoW! That's a REAL airbox! Do you have a support bracket under the carbs? If not, watch for cracks appearing in the manifold from the weight pounding up and down. I had one from the engine mount bolt to a T-bar under the Webers, using the trumpet bolts underneath. The other spot is around the holes in the airbox where it bolts onto the carbs. Using alloy might be more flexible than the sheet steel I used. I could see the air pressure difference in mine, the rear carb runs leaner than the front, and I put a pressure release vent in it later. The air pressure builds up with speed, so if its fine at low speed it leans out at 100kph.. The mixture display I have was invaluable in sorting it out, & I run an oxy sensor for each carb with a switch on the dash.. All in "The Girls KE70"

I think your combination setup might have killed the circulation of the heater water. I've never looked at a KE30 closely, and I know you can have heater hoses taking hot water off the back of the head, but you have two hot pressure feeds. The KE70 has the dizzy side pipe with the copper tube as the pressure feed to the heater. It starts under the thermostat where the water pump is pushing hot water into the top of the radiator. After going through the heater the KE70 return pipe down the exhuast side feeds the water back into the suction side of the water pmp, where the lower radiator hose is feeding cold water back into the motor. Your return pipe goes to the back of the head, which is also under pressure just like your feed pipe from under the thrermostat. So both pipes have equal pressure and you won't get flow. Block off the outlet in the back of the head and take that hose all the way to the pump. It goes in where your bypass is on the water pump. Make sense?

You'll be waiting..... if you look under his avatar you will see he was last online on 5th Oct 2012, and hasn't signed in since. I wonder about his RA40 Celica.

Ah, so now you know where the problem is- That heater valve should have gone from cold to hot when on one end or the other. You did try driving it with the valve in both positions didn't you? So, either the valve is blocked/jammed internally and stops water flow all the time, or the hoses are blocked somewhere else. The copper heater pipes that stick through the firewall are delicate, so if you pull those hoses off do it carefully. Before you pull the heater out and check it all, you could drain the coolant into a bucket & stick a garden hose in the hose at the water pump, and take the rad cap off so it can overflow. ....or take both heater hoses off and see if you can get water to flow through them. If you take the hoses off at the water pump & head it means you don't have to touch the copper ones on the firewall.

KE70 looks lke this-

How did that happen? I thought these modern motors were bullet-proof!

Gets quite complex very quickly- Motor, plus sump conversion, plus steering conversion, then more parts to hook up to the struts, with new brakes, and wheels... Never mind the driveline, electronics & heater/AC/radiator. Should be great when its finished!

....and you can always extend the thread on a lathe for extra castor.

Now THAT's a nice tray-

Take a strut apart and see what is inside the tube. If its an insert you just have the choice of whatever inserts you can buy for them. If its an original wet strut you can modify the valving yourself to whatever ride you want. Do a bit of internet research and you'll find its straight-forward to alter the shock's feeling both over bumps and rolling in corners. We've done the "cut the spring base & reweld lower" as well, and the next cheapest is the threaded tube welded onto the stock strut. Its all a matter of how much money you want to spend. Somewhere along the way you will realise a limited slip diff is the biggest improvement, but also the most expensive. That's the one thing you just can't get around on the cheap.

Not a lot of room for air cleaners with the wide heads! Those clutch screws look pretty weak. Usually the are 8mm bolts.

Got photos of the engine bay? I'm interested in what makes a good or bad conversion.... The rear sway will make a larger difference than the front strut brace, so if you're making up a priority list fit the rear sway first. Have you checked the condition of the rubber bushes front & rear?? They rarely break up but its no use doing up the rest of it if the bushes are flogged.

yep- hope somebody scraps the old one or rebuilds it properly. Mind you, neither of my KE70s would pass that test... no oil leaks! But, its an old corolla! You should weld some steel into those boot rust holes, the KE70s are really weak around there. At the least get a layer of fibreglass cloth on both sides of the remains of the metal. Great rims, the new car could turn out to be really nice.

So where do the hoses go?? Straight into the back of the heater? Does the control cable go anywhere? I'd think the heater would be on hot all the time, so something must be stopping the water circulating.

Nice and clean! What part of the world are you from? There are little differences that aren't in Australia.

We fitted a mechanical gauge to the Celica that had an adjustable alarm on it, so it sounded a buzzer at whatever temp you set. It also turned on the big shift light that was the oil pressure light. I've forgotten the name of the brand, but it looked like any old Smith gauge with an extra arm on it and few wires out the back. We put the sensor in the back of the block, maybe it was an old heater hose outlet. its on this page- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/64027-how-not-to-build-a-rally-car/page__st__195