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Son came up for Christmas with his new Fiesta XT... The 1.6L makes 240Nm of torque, so it moves the 1200kg quite quickly, and it drove up at 6L/100kph doing 120kph odd. Its all sudden grunt from 1500 to 4500, so ideal around town, and I figured that's where a 4K needs waking up, all low to mid-range without any lag.. Just a small turbo actiing as instantly as possible, with maybe water injection to help. A race car engine builder I used to work for put it on his wife's Honda Prelude back in the 80s. A really funny option would be to take the smaller 1L three cyl Ecoboost with its gearbox and turn it 90deg, then drop it into a KE70 engine bay and hook one diff side up to the driveshaft. Its a tiny motor puts out "170 N·m (125 lb·ft) from 1,400–4,500 rpm and 200 N·m (148 lb·ft) on overboost, which makes for a broad torque curve when compared to a naturally aspirated gasoline engine." according to Wiki. That's compared to the 4K's 67ft.lb... I'm not sure how to convince the ECU that there is nothing wrong when the diff is welded solid, maybe it wouldn't worry it!

You gotta be kidding Cameron! 72L/min! Holy sh*t that is the whole sump-full going through there every handful of seconds. It would be used as a coolant by the turbo and then you'd need an oil cooler for the motor... Well, now I see why people don't do it, a cute idea that needs a complete redesign of a turbo before it works. Next project!

Are we putting in these links to ads (Gumtree for me, may be different for other people) or are they encoded in from outside?? http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/70992-fs-1973-ke20-corolla-yellow-3t-gold-coast/ It would be a shame for Rollaclub to get degraded by ads within the topics.

oooh! photos! Sounds like quite a project! How do you get the oil line from outside to inside the sump & still be able to take the sump on and off?

I looked up Aerocharge, small turbos with self-contined oil systems. They run ball bearings, but not thrust -faced, and have their own oil reservoir that feeds onto the bearings. So, an injected motor with an Aerocharge turbo on its side, and maybe the bearings replaced by a thrust set. See how the shaft is set off away from the heat of the exhaust side, not in the middle like most turbos. The gains might be outweighed by.... the cost of $2200 !!

Well, I don't know what clearance we will have with the KE70, but the Celica was a low sports car and Steve's helmet sat against the roof a lot of the time. We cut the diagonal out of the cage to give him some room. I'll chase up the cage design, I was thinking of the old system where a straight bar was used to throw the corner force onto the main hoop, sort of like this.. From what I've generally seen the cages are usually so strong the interior suffers very little deformation, but the shape of cars has changed & cage design has changed to accomodate that. The extreme rake on car windscreens now has made the door 'hole' quite a different shape.

Are you going to fix it to the B pillar? I reckon it adds a lot of grunt to the roof if you do. Can you eliminate the bend in the top diagonals? That reduces their ability to keep the top of the cage square a lot. I'll have to put ours onto the front cross bar or Steve won't have enough room in the little triangle for his helmet. That was what we found with the Celica cage, a problem of being over 6 foot tall. Maybe we can start off in the front corner like you have and take it straight across to intersect with the passenger's diagonal instead of the main hoop. Not as good, but it would help. When you roll those top front corners get really pounded.

Yeah, I figured what you give up in boost you gain in instant response. Maybe the intercooler far outweighs the lag. hmm... wouldn't want carby leaks! It would be a killer when you turned the motor off, probably boil the carb dry. So, turbo sock, insulation plate, water-cooled compressor... Injected motor would be the answer!

LoL Rob... just thinking... Christmas time y'know.. Ah, so the bushes work fine still. They must have some sort of thrust face in there to stop end float on the axle. Something else to look at too...

Ah- good point. So the bushes or bearings need a thrust face. Are they all ball-bearings these days?

Looking at the piping running around a turbo'd engine bay, I wondered if you can mount them vertically. The one advantage a non-crossflow motor has is the exhaust and inlet right beside one another. Maybe redrill the oil return to sit at the bottom near the exhaust bearing so the oil doesn't pool on the seal, and I assume the whole oil gallery in the turbo is full of pressurised oil so the inlet bush doesn't starve.. Probably some single-choke downdraught carb would be neater. Just point the exhaust manifold down more until the turbo inlet lines up with the current inlet manifold and stack the carb and air cleaner on top. What am I missing??

Update- I swapped the T-series diff into the gold car sometime during this year, it had a good (non-whiny) Borgy. That gave the blue car a 4.3 to run around town in, so its very sparkly. The gold car got the 3.9 T-series for driving up to Walcha and back, needing the auto front half of the driveshaft it already had and the rear half of the modified tailshaft with its T-series coupling. The blue car kept its manual K50 front half and got a Borgy rear half from the gold car. The vibration vanished from the blue car and appeared in the gold car, so its the diff or the rear half of the tailsheft. Yiu can swap driveshaft halves without upsetting the balance. Then I put a new pinion seal in the 4.1 centre I scored from the Celica on the farm and fitted that. Didn't change the vibration so its in the rear driveshaft coupling. I figure the welding may not be exactly concentric, as the Celica driveshaft is a bigger diameter than the Ke70's. I fitted a large circlip on the front of the rear driveshaft and left it a little loose. After driving up to the farm the vibration was bad at 60kph, so driving back down through Tamworth I turned the circlip around the driveshaft a bit and the vibration almost vanished! When we build a diff for the rally KE70 I will have this one rebalanced at the same time up in Tamworth. Then I got interested in diff angles, wondering if those different mounts on the Celica diff tilted it too much in a KE70. I took a spirit level and a ruler, put the ruler on the diff flange and marked the concrete floor. Then I put the spirit level on the flange and made it vertical & marked the floor again. That way I had a right-angle triangle and could calculate the angle of the pinion face. Then I repeated it on the other KE70 sitting beside. Turns out there is no difference within the accuracy I could measure.The Celica diff is 2deg and just under 40minutes, the Borgie is 2deg and just under 30minutes. Getting the spirit level dead vertcal is the hard part, the triangle is 220mm along the vertical and only 10mm across the base. Both diffs pointing upwards, so the idea you have the pinion pointing down to compensate for horsepower climb obviously doean't apply to a KE70!! :laff: Actually, just eyeballing the driveshafts suggest they run to the back at a faintly steeper angle than that, so it does move towards paralell if it ever manages diff climb!

Ah, OK, so its a good time to get stuck into a project that is off the road. Well, see what's for sale and pick the best one. In Aussie you have to travel to get good cars, the rustfree ones are usually inland somewhere. Maybe someone on here can go and take a preliminary look at one for you.

I'm amazed that so many pople can't see that. As soon as you lose rego on a car it is basically worthless, the extra $1000 to register it just blows away the under-$1000 cars. So seeing you aready have a project car in the Festiva, keep looking around for a nicer RT132 while you fix the Festy up. There's nothing worse than having more and more dead cars half-finished lying around.

I'm in Orange, in from Sydney, and I drive up to the farm in Walcha where Steve lives to build the rally car. He was a Rona nut so there are half a dozen on the farm, but then rallying took over. This was his road car, in one of the farm sheds now- See how you go, if the body is reasonable you can handle all the mechanicals.

What Rob says is dead right, you can make a pleasant daily much cheaper than a show car. Unless you're a panel-beater/welder/spray painter or have rally good mates who are, you will need a good body to start with. Here's an overview of the project management side of it. A restoration would be just a bigger version of an engine swap. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/64432-how-to-tackle-that-engine-conversion/page__p__645057__hl__how%20that%20engine%20swap#entry645057

Well, you will no doubt get a project of one sort or another... If you don't know any panel-beating apprentices yet, how about a less rusty Toyota from inland somewhere. There is an almost rust-free RA40 coupe up on the farm that was going to be our spare rally car, but Steve said it is too original to ruin so we have gone to KE70s. It has a rust hole below the rear-drivers-side window, just where AE86s get them, & has been badly resprayed somewhere in the past so runs are visible if you look carefully. Same suspension and 18Rpoo motor, but Steve will want more than $400. This is the only photo I took of it as we drove it down from Brisbane, then stuck it in a shed on the farm. The inside is immaculate and everything works. We're meant to fix the rust hole and respray it, then sell if for a couple of grand or use it as a test bed for the 18RG motors we have to rebuild and sell.

..and also to contain the rear brake pressure limiter to stop the back brakes locking up. Don't forget the discs on the rear need more fluid than the rear drums, so the 4-wheel disc m'cyl may be different inside to provide more fluid. You might end up with odd balance from the rears working too fast with the disc m'cyl on them.

Haha! Worth MORE than your much younger Festiva?? OK, you sort out what you want to pay.. If it is RA40 underneath, get the body cleaned up and rustfree, then tackle the suspension. Check all the bushes and replace dodgy ones. You can fit Mitsi Sigma lower control arms for more negative front camber, we have some Kings springs left over from the last Celica rally car, and you can pick the shocks for your driving style. You can change the rear springs if you want to, but I wouldn't lower it much. Keep a good comfortable ride with taut handling. There are thicker rear sway bars made for RA40s, I have one in my KE70. If its running a T-series Jap diff there are several ratios you can pick from, depending if you want acceleration or cruising speed. As for 18RG motors, we have a few floating around Woolshed Rallying I'm trying to get Steve to sell, so get hold of us. I assume you will have the same W-series gearbox in there already. That would give you a fine-looking car that handles well and goes hard. I've just spent a morning working on a similar car with a 3SGE fitted, running twin Weber DCOEs. I can't remember exactly what model it was, I was under the bonnet all morning. Once that is sorted I can tell you what is needed to fit a 2L 16valve capable of 200bhp into it!

Yep, it does seem that way. How about a manual alloy radiator and use a bolt-on engine oil-cooler for the gearbox??

Don't forget the handbrake mechanism holds the brake shoes outwards in a drum brake. As the shoes wear the one-way ratchet screws the shoes outwards to make up for it. So you don't need a residual pressure in the line to hold the shoes out, in KE70s or a car with auto-adjusting drum brakes at least.

I haven't seen an auto alloy one. Is everything else in the best of condition?? The water pump, thermostat, the inside of the block not blocked...?? I'm sure they ran OK when brand new, but these days plenty of K motors are full of rust and scale, the water pumps worn and the radiators old with blocked cores.

Buy it! We can organise you an 18RG from an RA40, we have a few....

OK, I'm back online after being away doing a 4AGE conversion with someone. So, the valve spring/guides sorted?? A workshop would dip the block in solvent after taking out the oil gallery plugs, so if you are cleaning it yourself don't forget to take out the allen plugs and clean the oilways inside the block. You don't want the 40years of shit built up in there to go through your new bearings, or reduce the oil flow.

Ah- think of the horsepower you will pick up from having the carbs working properly!