altezzaclub

Its not hard, and the hammer doesn't have to be really big.. You could make a tool to knock the outer out, it just has to be the right width to neatly fit both sides of the bearing race and go past the hub. Obviously the outer bearing is a smaller diameter than the inner, so you have to use a punch to knock the inner one backwards. You could cut a brick chisel down to the right width for the outer one, and the inner one you bang lightly with a punch on one side then the other. Push the new races in by putting the old races on them, so you smack the old race with the tools. Then just knock them out leaving the new races in place. The workshop press is nice, maybe you could pull the hubs off and take them to a mechanic's shop and have him do them while you watch.

So, the Golden Girl is a dead stock KE70. Sometimes I jump in, it fires up, runs for 30seconds to a minute and dies. About as long as it takes to empty a carb bowl full of fuel. It won't restart. The fuel filter is empty, so is the pump. Solution is to put the filter inlet line into a jar of petrol, pour some down the carb and refil the carb, pump and filter. It makes a shopping trip into an anxious gamble.. It can be fine for a month or two, then do it. After running around town for a while I park it, lift the bonnet and see the fuel filer filling up more. Then bubbles come from the outlet end into the filter. The fuel filter is filling up because it is upside down. When it is right-way up the vapour comes in the top and pushes all the fuel out the bottom and back along the line to the tank. Then the pump struggles to suck it all back before the battery goes flat. The fuel pump looks new, so I think the previous owner was chasing this problem. It seems to look and work OK, but I don't know if it is correct for the car. Its hard to see if it has an insulating block as the car has aircon and the bracket covers the pump. That extra heat sink after 20minutes of running won't be helping either. Current solutions are- mount the filter higher as a tiny surge tank, or make a little surge tank up on the firewall., or stick in an electric pump. I'm not getting too carried away as I'm changing the motor earlyish next year, but I wondered if vapour-lock was a problem in K motors.

Love it! You'd be at home in The Woolshed, we can always use a mechanic like that!

Well, I had to sign in just to say I'm loving the build!

You'll have to check wires for power as I haven't found a reliable wiring diagram for each Corolla. I have several diagrams that vary from each other. Brown should be power coming in for ignition & running. White should be power coming in for everything else. Blue/red is accessories Ignition to run the motor through the ballast is red/orange Starter motor solenoid is black/white Ballast bypass to start the motor is what is left. I can't read the colour... The "start" part of the key feed both those circuits at once. The brown comes from one fusible link by itself and feeds the ignition circuit and ballast resistor to keep the motor running through red/orange The white is from another fusible link and feeds other circuits as well as the starter motor and ballast bypass direct to coil +ve for cranking.

Nice! Love to see the 4AGE knowledge gathered in one place and carefully arranged clearly. Its always fascinating how manufacturers change things in a production run.

That's a shame- The only thing to remember is to use a long tool for big areas. Even a long piece of wood about 100mm wide (could be down to 50mm) by 20mm thick by 300mm long. You could glue/nail some thin rubber (tyre inner tube) to one side so it is slightly softer. Hold sandpaper wrapped around it and sand away. You could make handles for it or buy the tools from panel-beating shops, but any flat surface that holds sandpaper does the job. Make a shorter one for tighter curves. It is easiest to work on doors off the car, but guards get floppy when taken off.

You can reduce the compression by cutting back around the valves. Lay a head gasket on it and draw circles where it touches, then cut the alloy out to meet the circle. That will also unshroud the valves and allow better flow. If you are running a non-stock inlet manifold for better carbs, it could do with porting too. Take the ports out to the diameter of the inlet gasket. It could do with twin DCOEs, a hot cam and extractors! If the rings/bore is getting tired, bore it out to 5K piston size and fit shallow-dish 5K pistons, that will also drop the compression a bit. Certainly run it on 98octane only...

What Jono says is right... Not a 3K head by any chance?? Measure the combustion chamber volume before you put it back on. Then you can work out the combustion ratio with one gasket and with two gaskets. You can grind a bit out of each combustion chamber to lower the compression if its over 10 to 1. It will also tell you what fuel to use to stop detonation, which destroys head gaskets... Having two gaskets leads to more blown gaskets than having one. Also, timing can't be as advanced as normal with very high compression or it leads to detonation too.

Yes, as they did to allow for the low profile tyres over the last 20years. Driving 1980 Corollas makes it obvious how much better newer cars ride over sharp bumps in the roads, the spring/shock ratios are quite different. Their suspension has to soak up all the small hard knocks that 70series tyres used to absorb in their sidewalls. Tall sidewalls will make ride comfort easier, but handling aspects will have to change. People will have become used to sharp turn-in & direct steering feel, something that older tall tyres lack. It will get rid of the problem of the wide tyres suffering from negative camber wear though.

Pull out the box and strip it. Broken selector fork probably, but you'll only know when it is stripped.

They are a two-piece hose, held in at that bracket. You can hacksaw vertically down into the bracket, bend the metal aside and take out/put in brake lines without taking them in half or remove the strut from the car and leave the caliper there. I'm sure you can buy one-piece braided lines to replace them too.

My Weber list says- Corolla 1200 (3K I assume) 1x40 DCOE with 27mm chokes Celica 1600 1x45 DCOE with 28mm chokes Celica 1600 2x42 DCOE with 27mm chokes Corolla 2TC 1x40 DCOE with 30mm chokes Corolla 1600 (probably 4AGE) 2x40 DCOE with 27mm chokes So feeding 1600cc they recommend two barrels with 28-30mm chokes, or 4 barrels with 27mm chokes. One Weber 32/36 easily feeds a 2L engine, and someone on here who tried different chokes said the 27mm worked best. Larger chokes kill air velocity at lower revs so it won't suck fuel out of the jets. If you're modding stuff madly then a DCOE will be better than the downdraughts, apart from the look. Richo has a single DCOE 40mm on his 5K with balanced bottom end and 290deg cam, it seems to pull fine right through the rev range. I think he's using 28mm chokes. If you want to use twin Aisans, read this- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/44694-3k-twin-aisan-carby-setup/

We haven't finished yet, but we used the RA40 LCA to get more camber. The RA40 steering arm was necessary as the RA40 strut bottom bolts are a different distance apart to the KE70's. The RA40 top mount has different bolt spacings to that of the KE70 strut tower so we have a KE70 top on the same RA40 strut, & Bilstein that we rallied on. As the RA40 spring doesn't fit inside the turret, we have KE70 tops, KE70 spring retainers and KE70 springs. Steve just told me today he has new cambertops that will fit the tower, as the KE70 has an odd asymmetrical bolt pattern. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/69126-how-to-build-a-rally-car/page__st__30 The RA40 LCA is the same as the Corona's, I'm not sure about the 'Rona strut though. Someone on here must know. So the bottom end and strut can be changed, giving bigger brakes now I think about it, but the top must be KE70. In that photo the top strut, the black one, is from the RA40 & is sporting KE70 springs and retainers, and the lower strut with no spring on is the KE70 one. You can see the spring diameter difference.

oooohh... Nice! A Leen Altezza conversion that makes any motor go better!

more or less.... Most Toyotas of similar age used similar setups, but the details will vary. Ignition light is the top bulb on the right-hand side of that diagram, its circuit goes to the alternator instead of to earth.

RA40s had a hole up in the firewall on each side for the wiring to pass through, then up through the bottom of the chassis rail and along inside that, and finally across the front under the radiator. Black will radiate far more heat than white, so I wouldn't expect any heat reduction. You could wrap them if you're keen, which does make a big difference.

I don't think they have found a reducton in traction from narrower tyres as they rely on the larger circumferential footprint from a larger tyre So we're working on a similar footprint area but the tyre diameter is larger for a fixed rim size. So new diff ratio needed. I don't think many people suffer from lack of traction normally, but I suppose when its an emergency braking situation it becomes important! What didn't get mentioned was the change in handling from the taller sidewalls flexing, one of the big selling points for low sidewall ratios. The other side of that being a better ride from the tall sidewalls as they soak up the potholes, and tall tyres do more Km than tyres with small sidewalls. Tall tyres soaking up potholes also means far fewer bent rims too. As an aside, I see some tyre pressures are going up with people talking about running 38psi now. That won't help the ride quality!

http://www.drive.com.au/motor-news/skinny-tyres-the-new-fashion-20141004-10qelg.html?utm_source=outbrain&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=outbrain_amplify Tyre design is blasting back to the future with car makers set to adopt larger diameter wheels with significantly skinnier tyres than most cars are running today. Despite decades of tyres getting bigger and wider, there is a new trend towards narrower tyres with a large diameter. The emerging trend towards skinnier tyres is being driven by a desire to reduce fuel use and carbon dioxide emissions. Tyre companies, including Michelin (pictured) are experimenting with taller, narrower rubber. "This is the new future," said Damien Hallez, Michelin's head of technical communications. "It helps to improve the energy efficiency [and use less fuel]." Hallez said every centimetre a tyre increases in diameter there is roughly a 1 per cent reduction in rolling resistance (all things being equal), which is the tyres internal resistance that slows it as it rolls across the ground. So increasing a tyre's diameter by 2 inches (tyre diameters are measured in inches, not centimetres) would reduce that rolling friction by about 5 per cent. Having less rubber width also brings improves aerodynamics and further reduces rolling resistance. "Increasing the diameter we gain in rolling resistance without losing all the security aspects of wet and dry grip," said Hallez. "There's less deformation of the tyre in the compact patch [the part of the tyre that is touching the road at any time] and less deformation in the side walls so that helps to gain in energy efficiency." He also said skinnier tyres were better suited to dissipating water, therefore reducing the chance of aquaplaning, or skipping across the surface of the water. "It's like a boat, it's much more efficient [at going through water]." Renault design boss Laurens van den Acker agreed wheel and tyre designs would continue to get larger in diameter but with skinnier, more energy efficient tyres. "It is one of those things that is the best of both worlds," said van den Acker. "The designers want big wheel and the engineers and aerodynamicists want narrow wheels. "It gives you good comfort, it's good for CO2 … because it has less resistance." Van den Acker said the only potential negative was in braking performance, something that had to be monitored. But he said the benefits far outweighed the negatives, particularly when it came to aesthetics. "If the choice was between having large tyres that are a bit skinny or small tyres that are a bit fat I would still go for the large ones because from the side view it is undoubtedly better," he said. However, because the skinny tyres are still relatively new – despite being similar widths to tyres sold 40 or 50 years ago – van den Acker said there were issues with supply of replacements. "What's stopping us is not technology, what's stopping us is tyre manufacturers who are just happy to supply the same tyre and the clients who are feeling more comfortable that the tyre can be bought anywhere, so you have to create a market for these special tyres," said van den Acker. BMW is one of the first manufacturers to use the new breed of skinny tyres in a production car with its upcoming i3 electric car. The bulbous carbon-fibre-bodied hatchback gets wheels that are 19 inches in diameter – commensurate to the diameter of wheels used on many performance and luxury cars – but the tyres are almost half as wide as some tyres. At the front the BMW i3's tyres are just 155mm wide, while the rears are 175mm wide. By comparison the popular BMW 3-Series has tyres that are between 225mm and 255mm wide, while the Holden Commodore tyres range from 225mm and 275mm. Various concept cars have also used the larger diameter skinny tyres, while Citroen's C4 Cactus uses 18-inch tyres that are just 155mm wide. Michelin's Hallez said in many cases the contact patch of rubber on the road was similar to a smaller diameter, wider tyre, so grip levels were often not compromised.

hmmm.. I'd have to measure one day, but the RA40 runs larger struts than the KE70, and the Bilstein people in Sydney machined those struts out to a larger diam again to take the Bilsteins we run. As it is, they fit on the KE70 with Celica steering arms and LCAs. (same as RT Corona LCAs) Is it worth worrying about the AE86 struts Luke? Can you find something else from the Toyota lineup to do the job?

I did some stuff that actually made a difference..

Blzbub is likely right if you have had new tyres balanced and a wheel alignment done. Either you had a buckled rim on the back and they fitted it to the front with the new tyres, or maybe a wheel weight fell off, which is a polite excuse for some guy who did a lousy balance job. Hold a screwdriver on a solid object like a concrete block beside a jacked-up wheel and rotate the rim past the screwdriver. Watch to see if the rim moves closer and further away. Do inside and outside of each front wheel. If you find one that is 5mm or more out swap it to the back. If they both check out OK go back to the wheel balance people and ask them to check both wheels. While you have each wheels jacked up try to wobble them vertically (wheel bearings) and horizontally (steering knuckles) as Banjo said. Any play will need investigating. The more you do yourself, the less you have to pay someone else to do.

Yeah, those compressions aren't that brilliant, just run it for a year and see if they get worse. Sort out everything else and then investigate if its rings or valves, & by then you will have a better idea about everything.

Surely that's all they have? The carbs themselves are crap, the 'twin' aspect is cute but in the end they are downdraughts and not sideies, and a single DCOE will blitz them in a modded motor as you can buy a wide range of jets and chokes. ..or are you saying I should go and get that pair that are sitting in the wreckers every time I walked past for the last few years because no-one wanted them ...

..and an alignment when you get the balance done. Did you get either done when you lowered it and fitted the new tyres?