altezzaclub

Can't be hard to finish!! I've had a SSS for a few years now, bought for my son and he donated it back when he bought something new. They are lovely car, very toquey and smooth, and surprising grip in the nose considering the usual FWD understeer. The rear hatch rattles like shit now I think about it, but other that that they are roomy, smooth and easy-to-drive. Ive always said that the moment someone runs up the rear of it I'm putting the motor in a KE70! They take about 4 haybales and a few bits... If you have had the clutch off the motor, the problem will simply be that you haven't got the plate right in the middle of the flywheel. If its a mm or more out the gearbox spline can't slide in.

nah, can't get one cheaper in Orange Anyway, flywheel is unmarked, pressure plate is fine, thrust bearing fine, clutch plate just over 1/2 worn.. except one spring steel section within the clutch plate has broken and a piece is sticking out, so it catches on the pressure plate when they move at different speeds. Only a few scratches really, and all fresh. So, new clutch plate needed, and I expect that I can only buy a kit. I'll go and see after lunch..

OK, thanks Jono, I'll chase a few more prices. The cable was first, the leaking sump gasket had rotted the rubber bung in the clutch cable fork, which is why it suddenly had excess travel and no clutch throw. That got replaced by a cut-down sway bar rubber, but the shudder is still there in 1st. I'd bettr go and crawl underneath and get dirty...

Well, yesterday the wife had the blue car at work and The Girl had the Altezza. Wife turns up and says it wouldn't go into first gear so she turned it off, started it in 1st and drove it home w/o a clutch. The cable suddenly had a lot of slack, but when I took that up with a spacer and drove it there wa a horrific clutch shudder. So I think the pressure plate has collapsed, something I'll have to do today. I popped on here to see when we fitted it, back at the end of 2008, that's 6 years on a clutch she learnt to drive on. Damm price has gone up, from $95 then to $115 the shop quoted!! I'm amazed they have one in stock!

So it was a combination of factors? Those plugs look average, with unleaded fuel they are always black & sooty around the outside rim and only the ceramic core shows any colour. having the fused ceramic build up on the side arm is what kills them I think, it will cover the spot where the spark jumps to.

Well, if you want help on how to do it- http://www.rollaclub...t +engine +swap Skim the forum build threads just to see how many get finished, and what goes wrong or how far the failed ones get. Try to identify the biggest pitfalls beforehand so you can plan to push through them and not let them stop the project dead. There are plenty of examples of people who attacked the wrong part of a project and when the real problems hit they were overwhelmed. Start a build thread and we will do what we can. -------------------------------- Here's one, although not quite aimed at the same as yours. You can Google Cool Lloyd for more. My Ke70 engine bay is 750mm square, so you know a V8 fits in that. I measured from radiator mounts to the firewall, and between the chassis rails. Your's will be a bit smaller. http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=431244&st=0 and....

hiro is right.. If you haven't done this before you might as well just give $10,000 to the local homeless, at least you keep the car.. You will buy the parts, pay a lot for people to do odd bits of the fabrication, lose interest and money, it will sit outside in the weather for a year or two, then you'll try to sell the whole lot and no-one will want it. You will end up with no car, no V8 and no money! Be realistic, you are a clown who will fail... Alternatively, you could modify the engine, then modify the brakes and suspension and do what you like to the body. Over a year you will learn stacks about those systems and know all about the car. Even if you turbo'd a 2L in there it would be a nice car for a simpler job. Over that time you investigate the costs and problems of a V8 swap, and if you're still keen you might be able to pull it off. Probably joining a local hod-rod club would be the answer, get in with guys who chop bodies and chassis up to fit unusual motors and transmissions. Even with Mexicans doing the work you'll still have to spend over $20,000 at a shop. I'd reckon the diff end would cost more than the motor end. this is why you need to be a fabricator, a welder, an engineer..

That looks fine- just wrap the exhaust for the first 200mm and it should be OK. Yeah, 18:1 is lean, but the moment you lift off the accelerator the injected cars show that. They go back to 14.5:1 as you accelerate again. The SUs I have had going up slight inclines at 16.7:1, ones where you just ease on the throttle very slightly at 100kph cruise. That makes them hot I'm sure, but the airflow at 100kph gets rid of the heat. You will find the same with the quads, they will need the mixtures changing to suit your engine.

Well, eventually they will get to be 30years old.. or maybe not, if the something-or-other packs up on all of them! The bodies are better than the Ke70s I am sure, the rust problems have been solved. The plastic should last longer too, but there are so many electrical systems to go wrong... ..not that I would be rushing to get enthusiastic over a FWD!

They spalled where the 4pipes get close and run paralell before they join. At that point the pipes are radiating heat into the pipes beside, and I had wrapped around all four together, as I couldn't get the fibreglass in between each pipe. The metal just flaked off from the surface. The photos are in The Girls KE70. It was hauling up steep (2nd gear) hills in a forest with 5 adults in the car that really nailed them, I spent an afternoon up and down the same bit of road ferrying people up aand down. So the next set I just wrapped around each pipe at the engine end and left the 4 pipes together bare, then filmed it. Even cruising at 100kph they glow gently red. I blamed the SU carbs running at 18 to 1 fuel mixture, as being lean means being hot, but now I've run the mixture display on the Altezza and the SR20 Pulsar, & they do the same. You are right, its the challenge of making an old car better, and solving the problems along the way that stops us from buying newer cars that you just get in and drive.

Silicon can take quite high temps. Its only when you do this work you realise how stupid having the inlet & exhaust on the same side really is! The 2T was much better. Those silicon hoses will suffer, I'm waiting to see if they survive. I had Lexan plastic gaskets in the SUs and they hardened up and melted. maybe you can wrap the exhaust in fibreglass at the top. Extractors have a bit more room there as they start off as pipes, and the steel is thinner than the cast iron you have to work around. The extractors on The Girls KE70 get red hot and glow. The spare set in the garage are ruined because they melted and softened, & a piece blew out down between the pipes.

Done! You can always smear them with some filler/adhesive if there are cracks. "No-more-nails" building adhesive or "Maniseal" exhaust sealant, they will fill tiny holes. Welding galv steel is bad, that smoke from the zinc atttacks your nerves and kills them, so you get brain damage eventually. I think that has already happened to people who spend their life working on old cars when they could just go out and buy a newer one then spend better time watching TV. Can you find a thin metal sheet to put under the carb and above the exhaust to act as a heat shieId? have a sheet of 1mm aluminium on mine to try and limit the heat from the extractors getting in and vapourising the fuel in the carbs. Also to stop fuel dripping on the exhaust when the carbs overflow.... SU carbs are kown for that problem, alhough this pair are good.

Can you make the extractors? Cut the same sort of plate you did for the inlets, weld a bar along it to hold it in shape like the Hurricanes have, and then tack-weld curves together to make the shape. I saw a guy doing just that for a V8 he put into an Altezza, he had a lot of short curves he mixed an matched then had it all welded up. Here's what they look like http://www.hurricaneheaders.com.au/hurricane/products_main.php?txt1=Headers%20/%20Manifolds%3Cbr%3E/%20Turbo%20Exhausts&txt2=Headers%20/%20Extractors&txt3=TOYOTA&txt4=COROLLA%20&txt5=4%20CYL&lvl1=1&lvl2=5&lvl3=29&lvl4=169&lvl5=1694# https://www.bestmufflers.com/bshop/images/hu077st2.jpg http://www.performanceexhaust.com.au/ebay/HU077ST_1.jpg I've got an old set in the shed if you want detailed photos. K motors don't produce horsepower, they just sound different!

Depends on the size, but this video reckons there is not much in it, the Keihins are tad better at flowing. The Weber has the usual 36mm choke and the Yamaha carb is a 40mm. I'd say webers give more instant throttle response with their pump jets, but they use a lot more fuel around town because of that.

That was quick! Looks good! Can you make them shorter?? Pull 30mm out of the steel manifold and the rubber hoses so you get more room at the brake cylinder. Now I do see the disadvantage of left-hand drive. Are you going to make a plate to cover the hole in the exhaust, and just weld it over the three bolts? Then braize around the edge to seal it. Another way would be to put a larger plate inside with 3 bolts welded to it, and a plate on top to clamp it and sandwich the manifold between the two. There may not be a flat surface inside for that to work. Of course the correct way is to drill out those three bolts a clean the threads up before replacing them, but that is always difficult to align. Mind you, the best way is to throw the original exhaust away and get extractors! I am negotiating for a cam for you...

True, you should diconnect the two carbs so they are independent and see how it idles. If it still idles high then take the carbs off and look at the butterflies carefully. I've had to undo the screws in the throttle plates to let the butterflies relax then do them up again. I think it comes from the shafts being over-stressed when people don't set up the throttle-stop on the cable/pedal, so the force of the foot acts directly on the poor little throttle shaft.

Damm they're big wheels! Got a real grip on the ground.

Here is a picture of what your ports should look like! The 3K bigport picture. http://www.rollaclub...400#entry691400 With this photo note the way the combustion chamber is sunk into the head a little, maybe a mm or so. There is that ridge running around where the head gasket sits. It makes me wonder if your head is a 3K that has been skimmed, or not a 3K but a 4K, as they are a flat head. Do the liquid measure again carefully and see what you get. At least you have the Mikunis sorted, I thought your Dad would either know all about them or have a good mechanic locally. I think they sit with the seam of the float bowl horizontal, so the body still sticks upwards. I don't know how bad it is for mixture if they are at completely the wrong angle, but they were designed to be leaned over sideways and still work! This photo is from Tommy's car of the year- Anyway, find a set in a bike or something still factory-fitted and see how they hang. There is another guy on here looking at Mikunis on a 2T, maybe you could sell him your manifold. here's a set-

Well, I expect to find they don't fit with the extractors around the studs, and I'm not usually disappointed. Once you get them to fit beside one another neatly you sort out the flange thickness. Then you tackle the alignment of the manifold holes with the ports on the head, so eventually the holes are the same size and line up. Then clean the casting marks out of the inside of the manifold and polish the walls up, and finally check the alignemnt of the Webers with the manifold. Same with extractors, and it pays to shine a torch up to where the pipes join. I've seen them roll-cut and not cleaned up so the metal protrudes down into the airway. If the torch won'r show the joins, then you cut the cone in half to look inside. This is not just Redline, the Lynx SU manifolds need the same tinkering. The Hurricane extractors for the 4K usually have welds that foul the washers of the stud nuts too. They need grinding back, either welds or washers.

Love it !! Every kid should learn to drive doing that!

You can expect to have to modify the manifolds, they just aren't made well enough. We overcame the flange height difference with half-washers tack-welded onto full washers. Another way is to insert pieces of soft wire behind the washers on the skinny side. There's always grinding and filing to be done to make the inlet fit between the extractors too. The main thing is to have both manifods bolt up cleanly and smoothly, then fit the exhaust pipe and carbs afterwards. Taking the extractors off and putting them on with the exhaust pipe on just leads to leaks. What are you using between carbs and inlet manifold?? Some of those Redline rubber O-rings are hopeless. Nuts on the carb studs?? They should have Thackery washers under them to give them limited movement to soak up vibration and stop fuel from foaming, but most guys just bolt them up tight.

Well, coincidentally there is a Mikuni-2T manifold sitting here- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/66759-1975-ke20-rally-rolla/page__pid__691385__st__120#entry691385 Make an offer!

That's what I like in a car! I can't stand these sacked-out POS bumping and grinding down the road with no ride quality and equally bad handling, all to be 70mm off the deck. Love the CAD! That's how I always work too.

That's a nice change. Now you have a 3K head lying around to modify before you fit it on the 4K block to make it all faster! The K50 is that little bit better out on the highways.

...aaaannd now its all ground to a halt you can clean the engine bay! Then that will need a coat of paint, so you'll strip all the brake lines and wiring out and..and.. Funny how a project never ever gets smaller, only bigger!