altezzaclub

Sooo.... new radiator setup then? What about oil surge too? is that a problem? It certainly solves the lack of torque in a 4K !!

What Parrot said! Make it comfortable to drive, not a hard noisy rough race car if you're doing 100km a day. See what you can do for good shocks to go with the new bushes and if there are ways of getting a tad of extra camber on the front. Toyo T1-R or whatever they do these days, I think they might be R1-R now, or Falken FK452 or something really grippy would make driving it more enjoyable. I always run my tyres in pairs so I can pick different front end handling to rear end. Chase down thicker sway bars and see if the guys that bought them reckon they are value for money. I don't know what you can do to the 4AGE, they were pretty good straight out of the factory and you don't need it with hot cams and lousy low-down pulling.

Damm that is clever! All those 4AGE conversions where you have the dizzy on the back of the motor, poking into the firewall... You've just solved all those problems! I'm running two narrow-band oxy sensors, one in #1 and one in #3 for reading each of the twin carbs. I have a switch on the display to flick from one to the other and make sure they are the same.

Obviously something from a car with over 300rwkw as stock. Walkinshaw or FPV can fix you up, but anything 4WD is too weak as they split the torque and Skylines don't make 900KW reliably. Lexus, Bugatti, Lamborghini, just check out your local wrecker...

1)-The pointy end of the screwdriver is the lever, the fat end is where the hammer works. 2)-If you're under the car and your boot can't loosen the nut when you kick the spanner, the hammer will do it. 3)-The hammer is always the answer... Volunteer to help a mechanic in your spare time. You'll be a pain in the ass for the guy, but just ask loudly at the pub is anyone is a mechanic and ply him with beers until he agrees...

I supplied a pair to Murray Cootes Suspension (the famous MCA of motorsport) and all they wanted was the casting with about 100mm of tube on it. They weld a new tube onto that bit I suppose, so I assume you don't get them out of the casting very easily at all. You could give them a call and just ask. If you look under the strut isn't there a massive weld all the way around the inside of the cup? Is the tube closed at the bottom, pressed into the casting and welded underneath?

Apart from 'low' are there other factors you want to look at, like LCAs or sway bars? I don't run mine low, just a coil chopped off the stock springs in the front and a coil & a half in the rear, but more camber at the front and more stiffness in the rear made the handling far better. I still have space between the top of the tyre and the guard.

I put my pair about chassis rail level, before the collector. getting them to fit was 'interesting'.. Even though they are heated it takes a minute of driving before they settle down and give consistant readings, they seem to need a warm-up period and need to be hot to work.

A nice rebuild, you must have done a lot of work there. We can have a Netherlands sub-section soon!

That looks a whole lot more fun than pouring it on the ground and setting fire to it!

That's a typo for 'float level', in case anyone is confused... Second of the dodgy fixes is to swap the two middle plug leads and crank it over. The massive backfires coming up the carby blow stuff backwards out of the jets... apparently!

Haha! best outcome you could have!

Well, certainly a tuneup would be the first thing. Check the plug gaps and make sure all plugs look the same. I expect it no longer has points, so just check the timing and the resistance of the leads. Check for any inlet leaks from loose bolts, broken gaskets, split rubber hoses.. Then find a carb kit for sale for that motor. You may not need it, or it may be hard to get, but at least you know where to find one. Pull the carby apart & take a look inside. If there is dirt in the bowl continue pulling it down and clean it all. I squirt it through with petrol.from a syringe. If the gaskets look dodgy then fit the carb kit. If its all clean, change the fuel filter. (where all the dirt is..) Finally run it to fully warm and set the idle mixture screw. Furthest inwards you can get for the fastest, smoothest idle.

cooked... Check for blown headgasket before chasing anything else. Do a leakdown test with a compressor because if it was leaking compression into the water system you would be losing the top tank of the rad every day. So I assume it is leaking compression between cylinders. You could first try the "start with full rad and no rad cap" and look for bubbles and overflow of water, but I don't't know if that works on a 4AGE, I haven't worked on one yet. If you get compression bubbles coming up through the radiator while the engine is cold (thermostat shut) then it is definatley head gasket goneski. If you don't get bubbles, then do the leakdown test. If it holds compression in every cylinder, change the coil/condensor whatever it is using as that would give the same symptoms of running fine on no-load but breaking down under load. Less likely I'd say as it would give a direct misfire rather that fire back up the inlet. Running lean also gives free-revving OK but spits and coughs under load. Nornally I'd look for a blocked jet in the carb, but I assume you can't have that problem...

"I want that crossmember black Soldier, and I want it black NOW!" lookin' good- massive rebuild!

Which motor?? The pathetic 21R, the pathetic 2S or the almost-just-as-pathetic injected 22R?? ..and just what does 'quite jumpy'mean?? Misfires? Surges? It sounds like a blocked jet in a carb, but our Pulsar SSS with its injected SR20 stalls on my wife a lot.

Go buy a $10 multimeter from Supercrap. The white wire going into the ignition lock is carrying power into there, if the ignition lights work then the power gets that far and the "ignition" (not 'start') part of the key is working. The black/white wire to the solenoid should be live, so unplug it off the starter motor and test that. You'll need to have someone holding the key on 'Start'. If power is getting to the solenoid but the starter isn't working, pull the starter out and test it on the bench. If power is not getting down that black wire then your suspicion is correct and the key lock is not connecting internally. It pulls apart easily enough to inspect the contacts. If you are unfortunate enough to suffer an auto, there is a shift lock switch in there too, making sure you can't start it in drive. That might be faulty.

oooh! Motor & gearbox into your Rolla! I don't know what will fit, the struts probably need the TA60 LCAs and steering knuckles to bolt onto. The motor fitment might just be a case of changing engine mounts, but it depends on how good that motor is. You'd have to remake the plate of the inlet manifold to fit the K motor. Cut the plate off the 4 pipes and angle the pipes, then weld another plate on with the inlet holes in a different place to fit the K head.

Clever! I'd like it a T-section above the round part to spread the load along the sills further, but you get what you can find.

Has the head been skimmed flat this time? Checked for flat? It looks like another head we had where someone had used a flapper wheel or some similar abrasive disc to clean the gasket off. It rounded all the edges slightly and groound a few shallow grooves into it. I wondered if this contributed to blowing the gasket. The guy that built it was no dummy- if he did the 3K head with a spacer and extractors on a stock carb he built the cheapest neat mod he could. I would've put a cam in it if it was me...

Good point! I use a trolley jack and only jack on the diff, the chassis rails by the suspension, or the engine crossmember.

Lol! That is TINY! Around 30cc is normal for 4K. Go for it, if it runs just use it. Imagine it with a DCOE Weber and extractors on a hot cam!! Then it could really breathe. The manual gearbox would make it a lot more direct and involving to drive, much more fun and it gets the power down better while using less fuel. You've still got to go through the hassle of changing it tho'.

I'd go for the front mounts of the springs, or the chassis rail there, so the springs can be lowerd to relax the shocks. Leave the jack under the diff and just lower it as far as you need. That assumes you have a little trolley jack, a vital part of any old Toyota owner's kit!

Extractors over here are about $220 new, I'm sure someone in Rollaclub could organise both for you. What about carbs?? We can get manifolds for a single DCOE Weber to fit the K motor over here, you might need one of those mailed over too. If not, the minimum would be a Weber 27/32 or whatever was used on small Euro cars back then. Volvos had twin SUs didn't they, although they would maybe be too big. The Lynx SU manifolds aren't made new anymore, they come up for sale on here now and then. Feel like quad carbs off a motobike and making your own manifold?? Don't forget fuel in this equation. More compression needs higher octane fuel or it pre-ignites. Can you get 98octane over there? There is a formula (that I have forgotten) expressing how many octane numbers you go up for every half a compression ratio. Over 9.8:1 you're probably on 98, I use 95 for just under that.

Looks great! Well worth the trouble- in 10years you'll be still looking at it and thinking "gee that looks good..."