altezzaclub

Well, if you want help on how to do it- http://www.rollaclub...t +engine +swap Skim the forum build threads just to see how many get finished, and what goes wrong or how far the failed ones get. Try to identify the biggest pitfalls beforehand so you can plan to push through them and not let them stop the project dead. There are plenty of examples of people who attacked the wrong part of a project and when the real problems hit they were overwhelmed. Start a build thread and we will do what we can. -------------------------------- Here's one, although not quite aimed at the same as yours. You can Google Cool Lloyd for more. My Ke70 engine bay is 750mm square, so you know a V8 fits in that. I measured from radiator mounts to the firewall, and between the chassis rails. Your's will be a bit smaller. http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=431244&st=0 and....

hiro is right.. If you haven't done this before you might as well just give $10,000 to the local homeless, at least you keep the car.. You will buy the parts, pay a lot for people to do odd bits of the fabrication, lose interest and money, it will sit outside in the weather for a year or two, then you'll try to sell the whole lot and no-one will want it. You will end up with no car, no V8 and no money! Be realistic, you are a clown who will fail... Alternatively, you could modify the engine, then modify the brakes and suspension and do what you like to the body. Over a year you will learn stacks about those systems and know all about the car. Even if you turbo'd a 2L in there it would be a nice car for a simpler job. Over that time you investigate the costs and problems of a V8 swap, and if you're still keen you might be able to pull it off. Probably joining a local hod-rod club would be the answer, get in with guys who chop bodies and chassis up to fit unusual motors and transmissions. Even with Mexicans doing the work you'll still have to spend over $20,000 at a shop. I'd reckon the diff end would cost more than the motor end. this is why you need to be a fabricator, a welder, an engineer..

That looks fine- just wrap the exhaust for the first 200mm and it should be OK. Yeah, 18:1 is lean, but the moment you lift off the accelerator the injected cars show that. They go back to 14.5:1 as you accelerate again. The SUs I have had going up slight inclines at 16.7:1, ones where you just ease on the throttle very slightly at 100kph cruise. That makes them hot I'm sure, but the airflow at 100kph gets rid of the heat. You will find the same with the quads, they will need the mixtures changing to suit your engine.

Well, eventually they will get to be 30years old.. or maybe not, if the something-or-other packs up on all of them! The bodies are better than the Ke70s I am sure, the rust problems have been solved. The plastic should last longer too, but there are so many electrical systems to go wrong... ..not that I would be rushing to get enthusiastic over a FWD!

They spalled where the 4pipes get close and run paralell before they join. At that point the pipes are radiating heat into the pipes beside, and I had wrapped around all four together, as I couldn't get the fibreglass in between each pipe. The metal just flaked off from the surface. The photos are in The Girls KE70. It was hauling up steep (2nd gear) hills in a forest with 5 adults in the car that really nailed them, I spent an afternoon up and down the same bit of road ferrying people up aand down. So the next set I just wrapped around each pipe at the engine end and left the 4 pipes together bare, then filmed it. Even cruising at 100kph they glow gently red. I blamed the SU carbs running at 18 to 1 fuel mixture, as being lean means being hot, but now I've run the mixture display on the Altezza and the SR20 Pulsar, & they do the same. You are right, its the challenge of making an old car better, and solving the problems along the way that stops us from buying newer cars that you just get in and drive.

Silicon can take quite high temps. Its only when you do this work you realise how stupid having the inlet & exhaust on the same side really is! The 2T was much better. Those silicon hoses will suffer, I'm waiting to see if they survive. I had Lexan plastic gaskets in the SUs and they hardened up and melted. maybe you can wrap the exhaust in fibreglass at the top. Extractors have a bit more room there as they start off as pipes, and the steel is thinner than the cast iron you have to work around. The extractors on The Girls KE70 get red hot and glow. The spare set in the garage are ruined because they melted and softened, & a piece blew out down between the pipes.

Done! You can always smear them with some filler/adhesive if there are cracks. "No-more-nails" building adhesive or "Maniseal" exhaust sealant, they will fill tiny holes. Welding galv steel is bad, that smoke from the zinc atttacks your nerves and kills them, so you get brain damage eventually. I think that has already happened to people who spend their life working on old cars when they could just go out and buy a newer one then spend better time watching TV. Can you find a thin metal sheet to put under the carb and above the exhaust to act as a heat shieId? have a sheet of 1mm aluminium on mine to try and limit the heat from the extractors getting in and vapourising the fuel in the carbs. Also to stop fuel dripping on the exhaust when the carbs overflow.... SU carbs are kown for that problem, alhough this pair are good.

Can you make the extractors? Cut the same sort of plate you did for the inlets, weld a bar along it to hold it in shape like the Hurricanes have, and then tack-weld curves together to make the shape. I saw a guy doing just that for a V8 he put into an Altezza, he had a lot of short curves he mixed an matched then had it all welded up. Here's what they look like http://www.hurricaneheaders.com.au/hurricane/products_main.php?txt1=Headers%20/%20Manifolds%3Cbr%3E/%20Turbo%20Exhausts&txt2=Headers%20/%20Extractors&txt3=TOYOTA&txt4=COROLLA%20&txt5=4%20CYL&lvl1=1&lvl2=5&lvl3=29&lvl4=169&lvl5=1694# https://www.bestmufflers.com/bshop/images/hu077st2.jpg http://www.performanceexhaust.com.au/ebay/HU077ST_1.jpg I've got an old set in the shed if you want detailed photos. K motors don't produce horsepower, they just sound different!

Depends on the size, but this video reckons there is not much in it, the Keihins are tad better at flowing. The Weber has the usual 36mm choke and the Yamaha carb is a 40mm. I'd say webers give more instant throttle response with their pump jets, but they use a lot more fuel around town because of that.

That was quick! Looks good! Can you make them shorter?? Pull 30mm out of the steel manifold and the rubber hoses so you get more room at the brake cylinder. Now I do see the disadvantage of left-hand drive. Are you going to make a plate to cover the hole in the exhaust, and just weld it over the three bolts? Then braize around the edge to seal it. Another way would be to put a larger plate inside with 3 bolts welded to it, and a plate on top to clamp it and sandwich the manifold between the two. There may not be a flat surface inside for that to work. Of course the correct way is to drill out those three bolts a clean the threads up before replacing them, but that is always difficult to align. Mind you, the best way is to throw the original exhaust away and get extractors! I am negotiating for a cam for you...

True, you should diconnect the two carbs so they are independent and see how it idles. If it still idles high then take the carbs off and look at the butterflies carefully. I've had to undo the screws in the throttle plates to let the butterflies relax then do them up again. I think it comes from the shafts being over-stressed when people don't set up the throttle-stop on the cable/pedal, so the force of the foot acts directly on the poor little throttle shaft.

Damm they're big wheels! Got a real grip on the ground.

Here is a picture of what your ports should look like! The 3K bigport picture. http://www.rollaclub...400#entry691400 With this photo note the way the combustion chamber is sunk into the head a little, maybe a mm or so. There is that ridge running around where the head gasket sits. It makes me wonder if your head is a 3K that has been skimmed, or not a 3K but a 4K, as they are a flat head. Do the liquid measure again carefully and see what you get. At least you have the Mikunis sorted, I thought your Dad would either know all about them or have a good mechanic locally. I think they sit with the seam of the float bowl horizontal, so the body still sticks upwards. I don't know how bad it is for mixture if they are at completely the wrong angle, but they were designed to be leaned over sideways and still work! This photo is from Tommy's car of the year- Anyway, find a set in a bike or something still factory-fitted and see how they hang. There is another guy on here looking at Mikunis on a 2T, maybe you could sell him your manifold. here's a set-

Well, I expect to find they don't fit with the extractors around the studs, and I'm not usually disappointed. Once you get them to fit beside one another neatly you sort out the flange thickness. Then you tackle the alignment of the manifold holes with the ports on the head, so eventually the holes are the same size and line up. Then clean the casting marks out of the inside of the manifold and polish the walls up, and finally check the alignemnt of the Webers with the manifold. Same with extractors, and it pays to shine a torch up to where the pipes join. I've seen them roll-cut and not cleaned up so the metal protrudes down into the airway. If the torch won'r show the joins, then you cut the cone in half to look inside. This is not just Redline, the Lynx SU manifolds need the same tinkering. The Hurricane extractors for the 4K usually have welds that foul the washers of the stud nuts too. They need grinding back, either welds or washers.

Love it !! Every kid should learn to drive doing that!

You can expect to have to modify the manifolds, they just aren't made well enough. We overcame the flange height difference with half-washers tack-welded onto full washers. Another way is to insert pieces of soft wire behind the washers on the skinny side. There's always grinding and filing to be done to make the inlet fit between the extractors too. The main thing is to have both manifods bolt up cleanly and smoothly, then fit the exhaust pipe and carbs afterwards. Taking the extractors off and putting them on with the exhaust pipe on just leads to leaks. What are you using between carbs and inlet manifold?? Some of those Redline rubber O-rings are hopeless. Nuts on the carb studs?? They should have Thackery washers under them to give them limited movement to soak up vibration and stop fuel from foaming, but most guys just bolt them up tight.

Well, coincidentally there is a Mikuni-2T manifold sitting here- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/66759-1975-ke20-rally-rolla/page__pid__691385__st__120#entry691385 Make an offer!

That's what I like in a car! I can't stand these sacked-out POS bumping and grinding down the road with no ride quality and equally bad handling, all to be 70mm off the deck. Love the CAD! That's how I always work too.

That's a nice change. Now you have a 3K head lying around to modify before you fit it on the 4K block to make it all faster! The K50 is that little bit better out on the highways.

...aaaannd now its all ground to a halt you can clean the engine bay! Then that will need a coat of paint, so you'll strip all the brake lines and wiring out and..and.. Funny how a project never ever gets smaller, only bigger!

OK, you just change the 4K stroke in the maths to your 3K stroke. So the cylinder volume is smaller, but the head gasket volume & the combustion chamber area stays the same. I would expect the combustion chamber volume to be about 27ml, I think that is what Richard got for his 3K head on the 345K we built. However, his 3K head had the whole combustion chamber sunk into the head a mm or so, giving a circular ridge all the way around where the head gasket sits. Maybe someone else on here can explain that. I reckon 0.75mm off will give you 10.0 to 1 but you can check that using your cyl volume of 291ml and chamber of 27ml. You can measure the Mikuni's diameter with calipers. They'll be somewhere between 36 and 40mm I expect. See the one slide that is not sitting equal with the others? Make sure they all move up and down in synchrony. Best thing is, search the net for everything you can, or find a mechanic locally who knows about them, and strip them down & clean them. Check the diaphrams and gaskets for leaks, the jets for dirt and see what can be lubricated.. The size of the carb exit into the manifold will tell you the manifold tube size to use, and that should match up with your inlet ports on the head. I'm sure they will work on your K motor, they just won't get fully exercised! You will need some curved manifold tube to allow for the sloping K motor, you want to end up with the Mikuni fuel bowl horizontal. Grab a mixture display meter if you come across one, I found it invaluable in setting up the twin SUs. They use needles like your Mikunis, so you can sand the needles to change their shape in different rev ranges. If you get one, have a nut for an oxy sensor welded into your extractors before you fit them. The option is a dyno for air/fuel mixture readings, but that might take quite a few runs and get expensive.

loL- cheapest fun you can have! I remember Steve's dad watching the paddock bashers saying "ruining my pasture those boys, ruining my pasture..." You can see why they use Cibies in rallying.

Ah, so the cams were already weakened. This must make for some real fun at traffic lights...

ooohh...nice workshop! 27ml is less than I expect, unless its a 3K head (or one of the 5K variants). The sheet of plastic makes it much more accurate as it fill up evenly to the hole you make in it. My 4K had 31cc and the graph paper added up to 30sqcm. So for me- Head volume 31ml Gasket volume = Pi X radius X radius X thickness= 3.14x3.95x3.95x0.15= 7.35ml Cylinder volume = 322ml compression ratio 322+31+7.35 to 31+7.35 which is 9.4 to 1. Skim 1mm off, you will remove (chamber area X 0.1)ml whch is 30Sqcmx0.1=3ml Now you have 322+(31-3)+7.35 to (31-3)+7.35 which is 9.86 to 1. So you can see how you use the head area from the graph paper to calculate how much to skim off to give you any compression ratio. If you really have 27ml in the chamber your figures would be 322+27+7.35 to 27+7.35, which is 10.4 to 1, before you skim it! The valves could do with a spin in the drill with sandpaper to clean all the carbon off the back of them. Keep the seats nice and cleanly cut like you have them. Think of how small the gap is between the back of the valve and the edge of the valve seat, and all your airflow has to go through that few mm. So anything to make the back of the valve smooth and polished helps. That is why they cut valve seats in three or more angles, to maximise that flow through the narrowest gap. If you look at a cam graph you realise that most airflow goes through a much smaller gap than at max lift, as the valve is only at max lift for a millisecond. Its why unshrouding the valve area by cutting back the combustion chamber wall also helps, if you look at an inlet in the head you see most of the airflow area has a wall right in front of it. Changing that is the major advantage of 4valve heads. Here's some random reading I found loking for a diagram- http://www.s26261265...drews/heads.htm You can see how the area close around the valve does not flow as cleanly as the open side. The combustion chamber wall blocks it, and then the cylinder wall is too close. Its a black art! In the '70s Ford found some of their heads straight off the production line flowed better than highly modified ones they had spents hours porting.

The next time you break the diff, don't weld the gears together, fill in the gaps between two teeth. That will give it a little open diff movement (about 1/4turn) and give better turn in. Put the stock springs back in, its far too low for dirt & you'll just smash the udeneath to bits. Look at the springs for marks of them being coil-bound, and check the bump stops for marks of them being hit. You want the car to just not quite coil bind and just touch the bump stops on the worst bumps. We tossed out the stock bump stops and got softer more progressive ones. Once it hits the stops or coil binds the stress goes on the sidewalls and the tyres instantly lose grip. Read "How not to build a rally car" to see how bad it can get. Same problem with the shocks, you end up pulling the car down into the dirt all the time unless you can find front shocks the go down stiffly and go up faster. Corona LCAs for more front camber... So much fun, so simple and cheap!