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Big_Valven

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  1. Wow, lots of attitude from both sides, that's nice. TRD is right, with the level you're building at it's got nothing to do with what car the parts came off if you make them work together. cutting and re welding the knuckles at a different angle will be your solution, the only way to know when it's right for your particular setup will be on a jig or with an aligner. If you work out the ackerman you need on the arms you could make a jig to weld them off the car probably. You'll probably want to consider bump steer while you're making measurements.
  2. Some simple diagnosis should help rule out a few things. Check voltage at the battery with the heater fan off versus on for voltage drop over the entire system. Check voltage drop between the negative battery post and the chassis & block Check for voltage drop at the fuel sender / tank earth and the gauge relative to chassis Check the sender voltage with a full and empty tank to see if you get full output. Unfortunately visual inspection and half-truths really don't go far with electricity, but there are very few variables in cars as simple as this so with proper measurement you'll narrow it down pretty quickly.
  3. Oh cheapest by far - these cars are far better for it than big Aussie tanks. And I just love the character, the personality my 55 and this 70 brings to motoring abuse. In the video above you might have spotted the steering wheel - Repco were selling plastic Autotechnica wheels out for $30 a pop back in the day, so I had to pick one up. No boss = no worries, no one needed the standard ship's wheel anyway! *Test fit before paint and tightening Bewm. And more vids. This car spends most of it's time on scrub tracks, but on wet clover it's possible to have a lot of fun without lasting ruination of crops... It certainly encourages car control! Would you believe it hasn't ever met a tree this way...
  4. Hehe, so true. I'd not have cut the springs, but we got the car with them, and haven't gone as far as to find stockos to put in. Sadly with the rear end it's a 50/50 between bump stops and rear tyre fitment scraping. Believe me everyone, it's NOT how I'd run a street car, or a competitive off roader. :) This is a video from around that time, before we had GoPro cameras... Tripod strapped into the back of the car with a Handycam on it! *Please don't use video as any real assessment of my driving skill!* :pirate: Well as much as I said interior was next, I did put some driving lights on first. (Very) used Cibie Oscars. Fused and relay switched with high beams, and of course a bypass switch Comparisons at fixed camera settings; low, high and driving lights!
  5. I've been browsing build logs on here thinking what a pity it is that we often don't get to see builds progress, life changes and sometimes people move corollas on... I'm not one of those people! This thing is still going 100% solid as ever. this is a video I made from the first weekend we had it on dirt; while it still had an exhaust and an open diff. Because it was wet, much fun ensued. I've done some simple mods to make it way more ghetto rally car, but tried to do them somewhat properly. I hope you all like. First of all was the driveline. I wouldn't drive a weldy on the road but we're looking to make maximum sideways with minimum torque, so this is the answer. We cleaned it up and did it properly, heating the spider gears before welding to get as much penetration as we could with the MIG. The centre back in the car. Sadly, this wasn't the end of proceedings. The welds have held up fantastically - with stock power and dirt to drive on, there really isn't much to put them at risk. The sheetmetal cover on the salisbury diff is another matter, and after many scrapes, it unknowingly let all it's oil out. That led to an epic siezure at around 100km/h, and the car went on the forklift back to the workshop. Carnage! I sourced a complete replacement axle but decided to be lazy and swap the rotating bits, it's held up brilliantly, since I was careful to wash out all the metal from the deceased bits. We MIG'd a 5mm mild steel plate on to the bottom of the housing to avoid future issues. It's on a rib to give clearance to fit the cover - which was straightened and fitted with a new gasket - but will take any abuse without the cover peeling off again. More 3rd gear slides ensued! Up next: Interior :)
  6. Timing chain link? That's just a guess...
  7. This car seemed creepy familiar as I read through the thread, then I realised I was drooling over it for about an hour at the AGR Burger Meet. It's a lovely car, you should give yourself more credit for the paint job :) Hopefully I can bring a KE20 to an AGR meet in coming... Years...
  8. I hope the ride height doesn't remind you of a 4wd... lol The flares aren't really to keep the wheels in anyway, more for mud guards than anything. :D
  9. Some newer pics. Diff is getting leaky so it's going to need some freshening up next time I'm working on it. :yes:
  10. Hehehe thanks but no thanks... I'm still trying to sell the interior but I'm getting no-one but tyre-kickers! Have had a bit of fun with this over the weekend, it's awesome on clay trails, very responsive and plain fast! Also been playing with the engine a bit, fixed the timing by feel (crank pulley's not indicating the right TDC angle :( ,) the points needed to be reset, but it's having trouble with spark on the rear two cylinders. :( I am considering a bit of an ignition overhaul, new coil, dizzy cap (current one isn't bad but can't hurt,) and new plugs, but also considering building an electronic ignition for it with Commodore coil packs or something similar. I can't work out which one's going to be most effort / benefit at the moment. I've had a lot of fun getting my hands dirty, but I am itching to sort out this interior ASAP... still considering rebuilding the front seats myself if no-one's keen on buying the complete interior.
  11. I've had a quick squiz and also done a slight variation on your method by testing with a multimeter for continuity on the points to adjust static timing with the engine off, but it would seem that the rotor in the dizzy is indeed still about 30 deg off for the engine to run properly - anything less and it just starts dying and won't rev freely, or under load. It would also seem that TDC is at the rearmost cylinder at the moment, is this correct? At it's current setting (basically where it started to rev freely and not bog down, about 30 deg,) it's running brilliantly to drive and low down power is better with no backfiring. but traditional methods tell me it's not set properly.
  12. I live in Adelaide but I'm working on the car 3 1/2 hours north east of Adelaide in the Riverland...
  13. I'm trying to set the timing properly on my 4K (not hi cam, KE70 though.) I have had issues with it backfiring into the carby and a lack of power at low RPM. I haven't done it before but I roughly understand the process. Timing light on cylinder 1 (front cyl,) timing should be around 8 deg as indicated with vacuum advance line disconnected from distributor. When I first connected the timing light, it indicated at least 30 degrees!? I loosened the distributor but as I adjust it back towards 8 degrees, the engine starts to hesitate and eventually stalls. Even back near 20 deg, the engine will idle but hesitate badly as I try to free rev it. I have tried adjusting idle control which helps the idle, but obviously still hesitates when I try to rev it. I have just put it back to a point where it will free rev properly, but it still seems to be around 30 deg. It is running better at low revs now though so it must be set a few degrees differently now. If anyone can think of anything I'm doing wrong or anything else I can try, let me know. ;)
  14. Hey all, posting a thread up for my Rolla now that I have the right forum. :D KE70 XX flat front sedan Metallic Poo Brown 275,000kms Standard 4K engine, 4 speed manual Cut springs and new shocks 13 inch meshies with 175 rubber Beige interior Tacho dash Genie "Turbo" exhaust Done so far: Stripped interior Fixed wiring & headlights Battery wiring redone Fixed horns Chrome Skull gear knob (from my old KE55) Straightened bumpers Drift numberplate relocation & rego sticker relocation Garden edging wheel arch flares / mud flaps To do: Racing buckets Lock diff Hose-off rubber floor mats Spotlights Train horns (in my cupboard) Steering wheel Sheet metal door trims & seal off rear seat & shelf Long term: half cage & strut braces Extractors & side pipes SC12 until the engine goes then solid N/A cammed build This is my bucket of fun. I bought it unreg'd and defected so it's not going to be a streeter anymore, that said it's a keeper for offroad use and I'm going to be having some DIY fun with it on the cheap. I'm a keen TIG welder with a workshop setup so I hope to have some fun with building the half cage, strut braces and exhaust. Progress will likely be slow but it's all in the interests of fun.
  15. Good to hear its all sorted; did you clean the plugs and try again? There may be a tune issue fouling the spark plugs? If you put new plugs in and this was the case, the new ones would foul up and you'd get the same problem.
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