altezzaclub

Do the head ports match the inlet manifold pipe diameter? They just look a bit smaller in that last photo, and you wouldn't want a step-down in diameter for the ingoing air to hit. Its easy to machine out the port entrance while you have the head off, just a cutting burr in a drill, as we discussed on page 8. If there was a step in the inlet wall it wold ruin the airflow and stop the cam working efficiently.

All of that is on the compliance plate on the firewall there. Take a photo of the plate if you're not sure, and tell us what country you're in. They varied aroubd the world, but I think those 2doors with T-motors were in the USA and SE Asia.

LoL! How can the seller not admit his mistake? As you say, its glaringly obvious.. The next best option is to stick it back up for sale and see if you can sell it to someone who wants it with this extra advertising.

She's laughing at the gear knob!

Well, I had a halogen bulb in my old yellow construction floodlight for years.. I mean YEARS! The best bulb I'd ever found.. Anyway, it eventually died last year and I fitted another, which died within a few months again! So I gave up the 300watt halogens that die all the time and fit in a casing that doesn't go in many places under a car, and gives off nearly all those watts as heat anyway! It was designed to illuminate a building site, I will admit. It was off to Bunnings and Jaycar... $3 for a metre of 40mm drain pipe that gets cut into 100mm lengths Four of those get drilled with 3.2mm bits for rivets. A, B, C back off the base to fix the light, 1 & 2 for wire hooks and 3 gets drilled out to 10mm for the cord. Off to Bunnings for $20 worth of 12volt 4watt LEDs, the cheapest in the shop. One rivet get a washer under it to push the bulb over a tad and hold it steady. I had leads lying around from the hospital staff running over them with the floor cleaning machines I fix, so I used 10mm leads. Far too big really, but the LED worklight in the Woolshed suffers from a tiny 12V lead that breaks, and a cigarette lighter plug on a transformer that pulls out all the time. If you can, find some in between! So the wires get soldered onto the bulb, and a grommet gets a ziptie to stop the lead pulling out. A hit with a hot-glue gun helps hold it all together. A stainless strip we pulled out of the Pulsar's wiper blades when we changed them last week makes nice hooks. I can hang it facing up or facing down. The other end of the light lead is a pain in 10mm as the jack cover can't fit over it. So out comes the heatshrink in two sizes and the male plug gets soldered on. Then I hit it with the heat... At the other end is a Jaycar kit box worth $3something and a $7 downlight transformer. I'd nailed the wife's little lunch box but got smacked for trying to steal the $8 supermarket clipseal container, so the Jaycar trip was worthwhile. The 12V output goes to mono sound jacks, and Jaycar only had two in stock so that's all I've made so far. All I had to do was put the cover back on the box and presto! Two hopefully bullet-proof worklights to throw around cars and two more to follow. With 4 bulbs its only 16watts compared to the 50watts that transformer usually runs. The jacks are $3 each, so $12, t'former was $7, LEDs $20, grommets a couple of bucks, drain tube $3 odd... Meh- $50 buys 4 lights, less than the cheapest single LED worklight I found on the web. I'll let you know how it goes...

Ballast resistors... they drop the voltage from 12V to 9V to suit the 9V coil that Corollas have. When you hit the 'start' part of the ignition key it cuts the ballast out of the circuit and feeds 12V direct to the 9V coil as the starter cranks.. This is good because the starter is dragging hundreds of amps out and the voltage has dropped to that anyway. Now your coil is working at 100% to fire the motor, instead of 75% in a non-ballasted car. As soon as you let the key back from 'start', the ignition feeds through the ballast and the coil runs on 9V while you drive around. The wire in the ballast gives the extra voltage off as heat, just like a old lightbulb used to, and that degrades the wire. Eventually they burn away and I assume the car will crank but not start. My two KE70s have resistances of 3.2 and 2.7ohms. My Haynes manual doesn't list a value for them, and in fact it doesn't even aknowledge the ballast resistor exists. it has no trouble-shooting ideas about it or listing of a possible fault in not starting! I can see it in their photos... In the Wiki it says this Jamie- Which I haven't done. I've just hooked the electronic dizzy feed to the ignition side of the ballast resistor. This means it sends 12v to the electronic dizzy when running, but only 9V when cranking as that wire is live from the coil +ve back through the ballast. It just seemed to be the handiest thing at the time! So should I hit the wrecker on Monday for a Commie one?

its easy enought o see if it has new points or not. They will be clean and shiny and not corroded across the points gap. If it has, make sure the condensor looks new too. Earth problem... I doubt it, if it starts OK. The starter pulls hundreds of amps when cranking, and if the earth can handle that then it can easily handle the few amps a motor pulls. Debris in the lines.. Sure, see if they fitted a new fuel filter in the service. If they did then its unlikely the line dirt problem. If they didn't fit a new one and see. I don't think it would be a fuel blockage because the motor uses the least amount of fuel to idle, so it would idle OK but not drive under power. If not, just take it back to whoever serviced it and say the problem is still there. They might find out what it is quite quickly.

There might be a difference in meaning between "what the car left the factory with" and "what the seller took out of a KE10". There was a good 35years or more for someone along the way to fit an AMCO to their KE10, then the car got sold several times. Looks like you're right though, not a factory one. I bought my XX KE70 with this one, genuine imitation wood. Steve reckons its aftermarket, I'm sure they all came with it stock...

Well, France has certanly bought the focus in on terrorism and the State. Once again no-one wants to talk about the obvious- the Police can only turn up afterwards, and you will still be dead. The real solution was to let the staff carry handguns and the terrorists would be dead along with the first couple of people they shot. I'm sure the clown in the cafe in Sydney would have thought tiddlywinks was a better pastime if he knew half the customers might have been armed. As the Police know very well, having a gun puts you in control only if everyone else is unarmed! The mainstream media ignored the irony of the Prime Minister telling us that "free speech is the cornerstone of our democracy" and simultaneously the medical industry was calling for the anti-vaccine campaigner to be banned from speaking. These are some quotes from the Libertarians in the UK, fairly salient at this point- --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Je suis Charlie I will repeat that this was a barbarous crime. But there seem to be barbarous crimes and barbarous crimes. Suppose the attack had not been on a cultural leftist magazine, but on the headquarters of the Front National, and the victims had been Francine le Pen and the party leadership. Would all those city squares have filled with people reciting Je suis le Front National? I hardly think so. Nor would the media have given blanket and uncritical coverage. ..... Cultural leftists have the same right not to be murdered as the rest of us. So far as the present lamentations indicate, they are seen by the directors of public opinion as having a greater right. We will Never Give up Our Right to Freedom of Speech The continuing hymn of praise to freedom of speech would sound better if it were seriously meant. I believe that the writers and cartoonists at Charlie Hebdo had the moral right to say whatever they pleased about Islam, or anything else. But I also believe that Luke O’Farrell and Garron Helm should not have been sent to prison for being rude to or about Jews. ...... Almost every day, in England alone, someone gets into trouble for opening his mouth. Where for them are the defenders of freedom of speech, now more fashionably than bravely holding up pencils or waving candles?....... Just about everyone else I have seen on the television is a hypocrite. In general, we are free to say only what the authorities want to hear. These were Cowardly Crimes The men who shot up the Charlie Hebdo offices are not cowards. They took a considerable risk, and it is generally believed that they will not let themselves be taken alive. This is part of what makes them and their like so dangerous. The Sinn Fein/IRA terrorists were cowards. Their speciality was to plant time bombs in shop toilets, and then run away before they went off. ....... To call them cowards is a comforting falsehood. These were Senseless Crimes The only senseless crime is one that has no evident purpose, or is unlikely to achieve it. The purpose of the Charlie Hebdo killings was to punish outrages against Moslem sensibilities, and to deter their repetition. Can anyone say they failed, or will fail? .....From now on, Moslems abroad and in Europe can expect a still more delicate handing of their sensibilities than is already the case. No one wants to be murdered, and one of the surest ways to avoid being murdered will be not to say anything untoward about Mohammed or his alleged teachings. I now feel obliged to comment on mass-immigration from the Third World. Anyone who said this would be other than a disaster must have been a fool or a villain. It has forced down working class incomes. It has raised housing costs for everyone. It has increased crime and welfare dependency. It has Balkanised politics and administration and law. It has been the excuse for a police state. I am not a violent or an uncharitable man. I am committed to an abstract and universalist ideology. I do not object to a certain porosity of borders. But, like most Jews in Israel, or most Chinese in China – or like most people in all times and places – I regard every square inch of my country as the birthright of my people, and do not look favourably on levels of immigration that seem likely, within the next few generations, to dispossess us of that birthright. Yet this is where we now are, in England, in France, and in many other European and European-settled countries. I have no convincing answers to the problem we face. All I can do is predict one of two outcomes: First, present trends will continue, and growing weight of numbers, and a greater willingness to resort to violence, will bring about the transformation of our societies in the image of the newcomers; Second, there will be a nativist reaction, attended by expulsion and the removal of citizenship rights for those allowed to stay, and an authoritarian political settlement. I do not look forward to either outcome. ... Anyone who can suggest a less unpleasant outcome that is other than wishful thinking will have at least my gratitude. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From http://thelibertarianalliance.com/2015/01/09/hot-air-and-the-paris-atrocities/ Politically incorrect, obnoxious to some, culturally insensitive, offensive I'm sure,... but accurate! A Govt will never be the solution to a religeous war, they will use it to remove freedoms, increase tyranny and pile on more taxes. The quote of the week goes to a Frenchman who ran across the brothers in their escape and said something like "He told me they wouldn't harm ordinary people and we were safe. He was dressed in black and wore a hood, and was carrying a machine gun. I thought he was from the police.." When you can't tell the criminals from the police (or the pigs from the farmers) then George Orwell was right.

We sent a crank/rods/pistons etc off to be balanced last year, new pistons and a replaced rod or two after SOMEONE destroyed their 18RG doing burnouts.. turned out there was 25g difference between the rods from two motors, even though they were both 18Rs, and it wasn't feasible/economic to equalise them. We ended up swapping all 4. On the other hand, Ford found testing of random heads off the production line gave a few with better flow than the carefully ported ones from the racing workshop. Maybe its all an urban myth, but the big differences in what are meant to be identical items can have strange effects. Have you ever tried the epoxy filling of ports to reshape them? I feel uneasy about having it come loose at some point later.

Yeah, that is a lovely one! Keep it that way and in twenty years you'll have all the next generation of youngsters begging you to sell it to them! You might have to heat the exhaust pipe as you do the bolts up on the extractors to let the pipe flange re-align itself paralell.

Going on the second part of the sentence, don't attempt the first part yourself... The 4AGE conversion is not simple, I have found. Anyway- take off the dizzy cap and rotor, and turn the motor with a spanner until the rubbing block of the points is on one of the 4 shoulders of the rotor cam. That makes the points gap as large as it can be. Pull the points open a tad more with a small screwdriver and check how big the volcano is on one side, as while they operate they spark and that takes metal off one side and deposits it on the other. If there is a noticeable volcano there, buy new points as it will stop a good measurement with feeler gauges. Once you have two paralell faces of metal in the points, slip in a feeler gauge. A 0.45mm would just slide in for a 4K motor, the 4AC might need a different size. So about 17-18thou, and 20thou shouldn't quite go in there. A better way is to use a dwell meter, the 4K runs on 46deg dwell, but it is fiddly as you have to run the motor to check it, stop and strip the dizzy, adjust the points and run it again to see if what you did gave the right reading. If you adjust the points at all, you move the timing, so then you need to re-set the ignition timing. It sounds like you should give it a thorough tuneup check, ignition, tappets, carb, and just catch up with things the previous owner might have missed or the garage didn't do. The spluttering could be carb, either rich or lean, rather than ignition related. I'd expect ignition to run badly, but not suddenly die and just as suddenly work again. As TRD KE70 said, fuel pump might be dying, so it goes lean, or shit may be in the jets so it goes lean, or dirt under the needle and seat in the carb would flood it rich. One of my 4Ks occasionally vapourises the fuel in the pump when I park it and the vapour pushes the fuel back down the line and empties the filter. When I restart it runs for 30seconds on the carb full but can't suck fuel from the tank fast enough & dies... Funny cars these... Start a build thread with a couple of photos and ask questions in there, they're simple cars once someone has explained it all.

Ah.. took us days and days... Reorganised stuff like the fuel system as we did it. I can't find a clear picture of the back of a K motor, but here is the gallery plug. It opens into a drilling right along the motor where the oil is pumped up from the filter below and fed to the crankshaft main bearings from the gallery. here's some info about them- http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/engines-drivetrain/83818-block-plug-basics/

That's a handful of car! It will be interesting to see how rego goes.

..and still buy them from Jax. Archilles, Maxxis, Michelin and Nexen all there. They have low-profile 155/70s too!

oohh.... the ultimate black art! We are dying to watch and learn! Have you ever done a 4K head?? Do we have to send you one....

These were the front seams on each side of the boot gutter when I took the rubber seal off and cleaned them up with a wire brush. So they are beside the hinges, just where panels are welded together.

I'm not sure.I can't see it being condensation, the amount of water from that would be very very small. The trouble is that all the water from the back window and back of the roof runs down into that boot channel, then out of that above the lights and all floods down onto the lights. So any leaks in the rubber gaskets lets in a lot of water. I don't know if the plastic lights themselves leak. What was it like when you took the boot seal off?

Recarpet it... Use the Ados F2 to glue the carpet stuff back on and it saves trying to clean it up. Brakeclean is the evaporative solvent in an aerosol can that mechanics use for spraying off brake dust. Its got a few different trade names and varying formulations, but they all just wash brake dust and oil/grease off and then evaporate away. I always have a can or two handy for cleaning parts. Check out Supercheap or Repco or any of them, same with carb cleaner.

Tojo is right- the flange on your driveshaft will not fit the T-series pinion flange, and the UJ is a different size too. You will need the rear end of a T-series driveshaft to be welded onto yours, whiich adds another $250 to the project.

...and, welcome to Toyota Corollas! The KE70s are so weak in the boot structure that the seams flex around the edge of the boot. This cracks the paint and lets water into the steel between the sheets, where it rusts away a hole in the gutter, and rain goes straight in. ... as a bonus the rubber around the tail lights rots after 30years and water pours in there, as you noticed. Take the boot rubber off and inspect the steel, let us know what its like. Look for rusty streaks running down the paint inside the boot between the tail lights. I've used Raven self-adhesive household door sealing rubber to replace the tail light gaskets and rubbed Vaseline into it before putting the tail light in.

Start with petrol and turps, try brakeclean (chlorinated hydrocarbon) then dive off to meths in one way (alcohols) and then carb cleaner in the other way. (alkenes) After that most solvents will take the paint off... The laquer thinners and similar things. You can buy Solvent N from CRC for use with Ados F2, which is likely what Toyota Aus used to stick it on with. Its a mix of naptha, acetone and toluene, some of which will be in the carb cleaner.

You might not get exactly 15W40, but there is no problem to mixing different viscosities. Try 10W30, then change to 20W50 at the oil change, then swap to the blend. If it makes a difference you will feel it. You could try 10W40 in winter and 20W50 in summer... Oh wait, the UK, it never gets hot! :laff:

Ah.. damm, now I'll wonder about my partly-wrapped ones! I put a sheet of thin stainless steel (microwave cover) glued to a sheet of Hardie's fibrolite between the starter and the extractors, and a 1mm alloy sheet between the SUs and the extractors. It still boils the petrol out of the carb when turned off after a run, you can smell it in the garage.

Yep- bought a T-series from the local wreecker for exactly that much. Came out of an RA60. Rian is right... disaster waiting to happen. Yep, but wheel stud thread pitch is different so the Toyota wheel nuts won't fit. Studs can be swapped over. Your hardest thing is finding a low enough diff ratio. Bigger cars (1.6L and over) use 3.7 and 3.9 and ratios like that. A 4K needs 4.1 or 4.3 to feel like it is going somewhere. I've tried 3.9, 4.1 and 4.3 in the KE70s, and then played with tyre sizes to get what I want... low 4.3 around town, higher 3.9 or 4.0 for trips. Find a 4.1 T-series in a Celica and run 175/60series 13" tyres at one ned, 175/70s at the other. Swap front to rear for trips or around town. We have just ponied up $1500 for a OS Giken LSD to go into the KE70 rally car, in the same T-series housing we had on the Celica. There is no dodging the high price of LSDs.