altezzaclub

The KE70 strut before I pulled it off looked like this. The red lines are the center of the disc vertically and the center of the hub horizontally. Then I fitted the FWD strut on, using one bolt at the top as they don't have the strange KE70 non-circular bolt pattern at the turret top. The balljoint was much too low for the KE70 LCA so I moved the hub up on its two bolts on the strut. Seeing I couldn't get the KE70's LCA balljoint out I took the FWD one off, and spaced it off the LCA with two nuts you can see sitting there. The red lines are the same, disc center and hub center. Here are the photos superimposed. I lined up the KE70 cross-member and LCA, & the plastic guard shield to get the photos in the same place. So the FWD hub is further out, as expected. In the photo the horizontal line showing the FWD hub center is higher, but that is because I have hung it on its top bolt to get the LCAs lined up. In reality it would have the hub axles in the same place (as the wheel would be on the road and the bolts in their normal place, but the LCA balljoint would be lower than a normal KE70. Then I tried a 13" wheel, which didn't fit, and hunted around for a 14". As I climbed up to see in the boot of a car on top Jase saw me and whistled... "We're going home and letting the dogs out..." Junkyard dogs!! So I decided to leave the rest of it until Monday!

So, back to Great Western. I'd selected the nuts and went to see Jase. I asked him how much and he said "you'll be right mate!"... which I really can't argue with! I then shot a few photos of one of the new Rollas in there- Then I pulled a strut off an early 2000s Avante and a KE70- The FWD is sitting on its balljoint, so it has the disc off the ground and it's hub center is higher. Other than that they are very similar lengths. Its a 51mm tube, same as the Celica.

So I'm looking at these WRC cars and thinking.."They bear no resemblance to stock models, the tyres sit halfway out of the guards which makes life soo much more stable!" ..and it popped into my head again as I sat at Great Western Wreckers going though seven 20 drums containing thousands of wheel nuts.. "Why", I hear you ask. Because when you have alloys with flat faces they need shank nuts. ..and 90% of the world runs 18.4mm diameter shanks on their wheels, but my 6x14" Cheviot mags I bought there a year or two back have 17.4mm shanks!! Not only are they like hen's teeth to find, but half the 17.4mm nuts have the fine Nissan pitch, not the coarse Toyota pitch!! ..and you lose more of what seem like the only fitting nuts because someone made them imperial and the actual stud diameter is a fraction of a mm smaller so the nut is loose on a Toyota thread!!! So this is trying to avoid buying a $36 new set from some guy in Melbourne... I did find three 13" Cheviot alloys on an old Mitsi Galant wagon which gave up their nuts, so if you want old school Cheviots in 13" they are there. After many hours I took a look over the newer Corollas he has in there. A tape measure showed that their FWD struts were about the same length from top to stub axle, and the steering arms were about the same length. So I started on Google.. Our RWD struts look like this- I had to hack it a little as the stub was not where they usually are, so I hope this looks like what you see. We have discs mounted on the back of the wheel hub so it sits close to the strut, the LCA balljoint is just under the bottom of the strut tube (blue line) and the steering axis from the top mount through the ball joint ends up inside of (towards the car) the mid-point of the tyre so the steering is light. Then we have the FWD version. With a driveshaft running through the centre of it, the LCA balljoint gets mounted lower. Actually, they are bolted onto the LCA in the newer Corollas. The steering axis goes through that balljoint, and hits the road in the middle of the tyre, giving zero scrub radius and that is why they have power steering on small cars if they are FWD. What you really see is a giant ventilated disc and a wheel mounted waaayy outside of the strut base! If you were after camber it is all there at the bottom two bolts, and if you want wider track you just make the LCA longer without having the camber ruined like we do currently. If you just cut off the driveshaft at the hub it would be easy... So I superimposed the two diagrams making sure the stub axles were at the same height. The LCA height is quite different, lower in the FWD case which is great if you are lowering the car. The disc and hub is much further out and if you ran RWD style wheels they would be waaayy out there! Then I hit the wrecker again...

No it doesnt!! You sure? They will suck air through nearly all the radiator when they come on (hardly ever!), and a shroud will only ruin the airflow when you're driving. My miserable 4K runs a single electric with no shroud, and I can't ever think of a time it has come on. The nearest would be getting interrupted on a 100kph trip to sit at roadworks waiting for those fking abysmal temporary traffic lights!!! It gets up to halfway after a couple of minutes but doesn't get the fan on.

Ah! Thats good! Now we know what the problem is, and you only have to find out where it lies. So its not leaning out from a leak, its flooding from somewhere. Usual culprit would be the needle and seat of course. How's the fuel filter, and any shit in the bottom of the carb bowl?? Nothing worse than some degraded plastic fibre or silicon getting through a broken filter and under the pump valves so it has no fuel pressure and runs lean, and then under the needle seat and it floods and runs rich. Other options are hard to find- too much pump pressure..? Unlikely I expect. Wrong jets in the carb?? Also unlikely, but maybe someone was fiddling with it... Is there a difference in the plug colour after idling/running at 2000rpm in neutral for a couple of minutes, and the plugs when its dying under drive on the road?? I just wondered where it is rich, low down, under load, or both???

Did you take the inlet or exhaust manifolds off?? Check the nuts being up tight? Still sounds like carb... how about fuel pump not delivering anough to keep the float level up. Fuel pump not working on the cam correctly, that insulating spacer is important. Can you take it for a run and when it dies switch it off immediately, then take the carb top off and check how high the fuel is?? Not a very definative test, but if it is low or too high its a clue. Another option would be to ride it in the dying spot then turn it off and pull all 4 plugs on the roadside. See if they show signs of over-rich or lean. I'm planning exactly the same for my two KE70s in a week, head and everything off one onto the block in the other.... this is not sounding good! 0.4mm is 16thou, about right isn't it Clapped Out?.

Sounds like carb. Too lean for some reason, an air leak or an open vac line or a blocked pump jet. Does it run better if you pull the choke out? The ignition side of it looks OK.

Welcome in! It looks very neat 'n tidy. Paint code is on the build plate on the firewall. If you've got a race car then you'll have some great ideas for the KE70.

Ouch!! So just cut that cross-member right out and replace it with a box section, not too hard. Although it will end up as motor out, radiator panel cut off, crossmember off, suspension off and then chassis arms pushed outwards that little bit that they have been pulled in. Still, when you look at the rally crash videos.....

You don't have enough bulbs in the circuit. The greater the resistance, the slower it blinks. Are the indicators in the guards blinking as well as the ones in the bumper?? Are the back ones working properly? Right wattage bulbs?? The brake lights have a bulb in backwards. They have two pins sticking out from the stem, and in a single -element bulb like an indicator the pins are opposite each other. In a twin-filament bulb like a brake/tail bulb, the pins are not opposite one is high & one is low. If you are not careful when you put them in you can squeeze them in the wrong way around so you feed tail and brake at the same time. So you're more than halfway there, just go over the brake light bulbs and wiring carefully, especially earth wiring, and check out the total wattage in the indicator circuit.

You could measure it after you have calculated what you want like this- You have the length and width of the KE70 so you set it up in a garage with some string and chalk. Disconnect the steering arms, turn the wheels to where they should be and make the steering arms fit. You will need to weight the nose to the normal ride height you will be using. That will give you normal Ackerman steering, but if you're going to use it for motorsport you will want something more sophisticated. There is stacks on the web about it-

Arrrgh! I see what you mean! It was giant when I loaded it, but of course its been down-sized for server space. I just found it in Goolge when I looked for it yesterday, but today the only one there is this one! If I find the original again I will PM you. ---------------------------------------------- Rian had a copy on here back in 2012 Try this- Its 3493x938 http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v396/Beserker99/Random/T18WiringDiagramSmall.jpg

Nice! I wish I'd known about it when I did mine!

Well, to me this says there is nothing wrong with the igniter or the coil. Its a wiring problem supplying power to the ignition from the key. There must be a burned-out wire in the ignition setup somewhere, or in the key boss contacts. I think these were invented after 1982. It takes more power to make a spark jump a gap under compression, so if you add advance and the fuel mix is less compressed when you fire it, you can run a wider gap. Whether it makes a difference in real life I don't know, 10degrees of timing near TDC is a very small amount of compressing. Give it a try and see if it missfires under wide open throttle. You can see from the wiring diagram that the red dots (actually a red wire) feeds the coil power while cranking and also feeds the starter motor. (black & white wire) If this is broken you may be able to crank it but there will be no power to the coil while cranking. The green dots are the coil supply while the car is running and not on 'crank'. If this is broken then the car will fire when cranking but die as soon as you let the key off. Your American model might be different, seeing it has an igniter, but the car still needs wiring to do the same job, so check the wires from the key to the coil.

Take a look- whip the air cleaner off and watch as someone slowly pulls the choke out. It should close the flap over half the carb & lift the accelerator off the idle stop at the same time. You can adjust those I think (its been a while) so you can have the idle speed increasing before the flap closes over. That way you can keep a slightly higher idle without making it richer.

Have we got an emoticon for "Grammar Fail"? I'm worried that if I offer advice, it would take too long to decipher the replies...

So I phone up Auto Surplus for a full gasket set, I have plans for the Girl's Blue Beast... He asks me what year?.. 1983. Early or late?? Ah, well, I want to mix a motor of each, one a flatty, one a slanty. Two different gasket set numbers, so he goes and gets the books and compares the lists of the gaskets inside and the only difference is the sump gasket! So slantys have a different sump gasket to flattys! The early one is the 4K-C, the later one is just 4K. Anyone come across this?? BTW, Bursons said $190 for the full kit, I bought it from Auto Surplaus for $70, a Permaseal kit. It arrived 10minutes ago in Orange from Melbourne, and I only bought it yesterday. Get them while they're going!

Nice work on the rear end. That will make a big change.

Mike's right, I can't see why not- the best diff is the lightest and the cheapest in the best condition. Isn't the Skyline the most common replacement? The Hilux takes more grunt, but is heavier, so it depends on how much power you're after. If you have to shorten them it will up the price of some of them, and you'll have to get the driveshaft modified to suit the UJ coupling. Brakes and handbrake... it all gets quite complex really.

...and we need a topic on how to dismantle the K50 and replace the seal! You did take photos of course....

Damm its nice being an engineer!!! I'm surprised you didn't use a circle instead of a triangle as the spherical ball mount and drill holes all around the edge to get some adjustability. ...or does the spring hit the turret if you move it around?

Single DCOE Weber if there is a manifold for it. Otherwise you might make a manifold out of exhaust pipe and a plate.. if you don't want side-draught then maybe twin down-draughts like a 3K-B. Best would be twin DCOEs, for which there are manifolds, or quad Mikunis off a bike if you're keen. It depends on what you can find and how much room there is down that side of the engine. The T motors went to the USA and South Africa rather than here in Aussie, so any parts will be over there. At least with the pushrods you can have your cam re-cut for power, you can't do that with DOHC. You have to calculate the compression ratio for skimming the head, so learn up about using burettes and graph paper. You will end up with a figure of "x-thou skimmed off raises the compression by y-times". Just get it running sweetly and use it while you make a list of what you want to do, then start finding parts. Number one is to do a compression test, write it down then put a bit of oil in each cylinder and repeat it. That will give you an idea of how worn the rings are. Then work on the list... A spare head would be great, it means you can prepare everything and just swap it one weekend. I assume the easiest way to do a cam swap is by pulling the motor out, you might want to check up on that. Get the carbs and manifolds you want, match all the ports, then grind the head ports to suit Grind the valves in then de-shroud around them and finally get it skimmed as much as you want. You'll be stuck if you want your cam cut, but if you find a grinder that will supply one on deposit and you send your one back to him later, then do it. Buy a gasket set and away you go... Don't forget things like timing chain wear and tensioner wear... There is a lot to say for having the motor out for a week and getting the block cleaned and de-scaled. That would also be the time you checked the bearings for wear, its no good putting a hot head on a worn crank. With the block stripped you can measure the bore and see how worn the rings are, and if its pretty good a hone and new rings would give it extra power.. On that list is also to check the oil pump for wear. If you're pushed for time just do the head. Have the block water blasted out in the galleries and the radiator flushed and tested, as there is nothing worse than overheating a new hot motor and blowing the head gasket because there was 30years of rust scale stuck inside. Put a thermometer in the radiator cap hole and check what temperature the electric fan turns on at, it would be a shame if the sensor didn't work or the fan relay was blown. There's lots more, but that's enough to keep you busy!

Find out what other cars use that igniter and get one from a wrecker. If you can find out the coil resistance get one from a car that has a similar resistance. The last one I bought came with an electronic coil and cost $10. Your timing expanation isn't clear to me, you might need to get a timing light and read actual degrees before TDC. More important than the total timing advance is the rate at which it advances, and an electronic controller to do that would be a great step forward. If not, once you have it running nicely you can play with the springs on the dizzy weights to increase the curve..

Sounds like a bad contact somewhere. If I had the car in front of me I could fix it, but I have't been back to Kaapstad for a few years now... On the lights, power is fed from the relay via the red/black wire to the bulbs, then each filament feeds back to the dipswitch through red/green & red/yellow. The dipswitch earths one of the other, or both for flashing the lights. You need to get a cheap multimeter and see that you have the circuit from the relay, through the light bulb and up to the steering column plug. You could rig up a 12V test light and two longish lengths of wire to feed 12V from the battery into the R/G wire and pick it up at the column plug where you earth it through the test light. Get a needle or something as a probe to stick into the ends of the plugs and put an alligator clips onto the needle. Its really just a matter of doing that for the circuits that aren't working properly. There will be bad connections somewhere, adn from the list of things that aren't working there is more than one problem.. Here is how the dipswitch works, you may have problems in the steering column that will affect lights/indicators/horn/wipers, they all go up there through a couple of plugs. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/58878-how-to-fix-your-abysmal-headlights/page__st__30 Work your way through your wiring diagram checking that each wire does carry power to your test light/meter at the other end.

Well done! There's nothing better than a giant job that works when you finish it! Did they give you a dyno graph perhaps.....?