altezzaclub

While we're here, Steve bought a pair of those kits and I fitted one to the Hoonicorn, so both my KE70s have great headlights now. He's putting his kit on Mao. Well worth the money!

Ford..?? Isn't that just the badge and its really a Mazdas 626?? All I've heard is that they run up gigantic mileages if you treat them nicely.

I LIKE that idea! One of the few under-2L motors still made in RWD format, I reckon the 1.6L with a 5spd would make a great package. Go for it! Put up a build thread!

Read The Girls KE70... we've already done all that. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/ Straight-forward and simple mods. Take a read and ask questions. I like the idea of getting another 4K motor and building it up so it is ready to drop in. They aren't expensive, and there are a few lying around on the farm at Walcha.... only 1500Km from you! An SE20 is a nice idea, I have an N14 SSS, but I wouldn't worry about the turbo. KE70 suspension and brakes aren't that good and the costs will soon be far far greater than you will ever get back. Also, they are just coke cans in a crash, so don't expect to survive an SR20 turbo sized crash in one pice, or at all.

That's what we used on The Girl's KE70 when we found tiny rust spiderwebs starting to show through. Get the strongest, most environmentally unfriendly one you can, preferably with perchloroethylene in. The 'green' ones are pretty wimpy. It wasn't difficult to get it back to steel and then we used the rust-converting phosphate chemicals on it before painting. Its worked so far.. coming up 6years.

I've got a stock KE70 one in the Girl's KE70, but it hasn't run the 4AGE yet. If that won't do it I might try the much wider Lancer one I picked up at the wrecker, a modern twin-fan thin but very wide alloy one. The option is the Ebay alloy ones, which Steve has in Mao and it works just fine.

Only if you can find a K to T bell-housing. They were made for a few years and second-hand ones are still around occasionally. They allow you to put a K gearbox behind any 4A block, as far as I know.

Well damm! I never thought of Facebook for buying them. I wondered why there werre none for sale. ..and I was two days into making that set when Rob came around and told me about the ones pictured above, so I could've bought those! Anyway, I finished them today, hand-carving some 10mm plate into the last clamp and boxing in the heat shield. When I've done the rest of the exhaust I'll pull it all out for testing and final assembly. Next was fuel tank out and a look at replacing the 6mm KE70 feed line under the car with an 8mm one. Seems to be a pain, and as the bit sticking in the tank stays at 6mm, maybe fitting an 8mm line doens't really do much. Anyone suffered fuel starvation from the lines being too small?? Oh- the KE70s DO have baffles in the tank! Maybe the surge tank story is not gospel either!

Ah, so I'm a couple of weeks ahead of you in The Girls KE70! Exhaust pipes currently- I suppose you're going to start with extractors, which will make it easier to do the rest of the system. When I've finished that I'll probably do fuel lines and pumps. What radiator have you got lined up?? I picked up a twin-fan Mitsi Lancer one with inlet and outlet on the same side, but it is quite wide and would mean cutting out the front panel. Still undecided on that.

Ah, back into it... So, it is not easy to find the 2-into-one pipes that go from the stock bigport manifold to the exhaust under the floor.. The 4AGE was never sold here in RWD, so they aren't an item at the wrecker. Extractors are a nice idea, but they're also getting thin on the ground and carry $500 upwards price tags. The option was to trailer it off to an exhaust shop and have a custom piece made, but that would cost the same. So for $10 I grabbed a VL Commodore set from the wrecker and got out the hacksaw! I chopped them into 7 pieces and reorganised the bits. It took a lot of pissing around under the car but they were tacked together and fitted without stress. I figured on taking them to a mate up here with a Mig, then thought I'd just weld the bits where the pipes were close with the stick welder.... then thought.. "might as well keep going..", and the result is ready to be tested for sealing. Not sure how to do that yet, today will be spent chopping up stray pipes to make the rest of the system and working out how to bolt it to the cast flange- The Toyota and the Holden methods are quite different..

Ah- there is an original Subaru Leone up on the farm with the same problem. I took some heavy cloth-reinforced gaffer tape, folded it in half on itself and put it up the frame over that rubber. Took a couple of layers to make it stiff enough to seal against the window, and on one side I made a little thin sheetmetal flap that pushes it outwards against the glass. Works fine, stopped the wind noise. I assume the door is only half-shut in that photo, it should close up more than that. Nice car! It would be lovely to have them here in Oz.

First up, tell us about the car. Did you change the motor or change anything on the motor before this happened? Did it just happen one day after running fine for the last year? Were there any problems popping up before this? Have you checked for fault codes? Do these motors have a limp mode, it sounds just like what it is doing. You've covered the major probabilities aready, the fuel, spark and ECU. It must be something quite odd.

Woo! Nice shed! This should be easy in there!

Start a new thread, this will be hopeless to find in the future. Put a link in here to it. As Parrot says, tell us about the motor and where you got it from. Did you see it running before you fitted it? What did you do in the conversion?

What! I thought Norway was an honest country! Did they leave footprints in the snow? Have you got an asylum center in the town? Time to fit some secret wiring and cutout switches....

That has some advatages- It doesn't have to look good, its only going to get smashed up. So buying a dirt cheap wreck is always a good way to go, weld on some steel sheet and vaguely bog it into shape.. The cage structure replaces the body for strength, so you can modify the design of the cage to add strength where the body is weak. You can't do that on a road car. Guards, boot and bonnet can be made of fibreglass, so repair those panels once and make yourself a set of molds, then make new f'glass panels every time you ruin them. Rally cars can have a lot of shit taken out of them, you need the bare minimum to make it roadworthy. So if the indicators in the bumpers are broken, you just screw them on somewhere else. Rally cars get stripped back to a bare shell when being built, so fixing a bad shell is much easier then. Got any photos?

I've got one on the Hoonicorn, with a manual over-ride for sitting at long roaworks traffic lights... The sensor needs to be earthing at 90deg, so check if its normally open or normally closed. You're right, some have two wires, some one, and I use a single. The Tridon catalogue is very good- http://www.tridon.com.au/databank/documents/CAT079-Switch.pdf I use a TFS111 or similar, on page 189. Single wire, normally open, closes at 90deg so current flows and the fan comes on. I can't remember if it has the correct thread there, or if its a similar one with the metric thread. I put a dashboard switch going to earth into the relay line that goes to the sensor, so I can earth the relay and start the fan before 90deg. The fan was $10 at the wrecker, the relay about the same, and the sensor was about $30 I think. It makes the motor much quieter and obviously wastes less power when driving. It never comes on when moving, its only when idling at the lights after driving.

Big ends look like they've been replaced. Mains look worn right out. Is that what you see? If so, get the crank measured and cleaned, and if its not worn then fit new bearings and away you go. If you don't get it cleaned the tar on the edges may sieze the new bearings... had it happen to me! Oil pump washer, about 3mm. I don't think its important.

So nice to get something simple! I've forgotten it myself in the past, that's how I knew.

haha! Nice story! I don't know if it works or not, but I think you won't see 5psi difference! You will end up with a big mess though. The oil pumps have specs listed, both clearance around the tips and end plate float. Pop them apart first and look for grooves worn into the tips and the plate from dirt in the oil, and then measure them with feeler gauges. Outer rotor to body 0.10-0.16mm Inner rotor tip to outer rotor 0.04-0.16mm Rotor endfloat across body 0.03-0.09mm

You forgot to put the circlip on the bottom of the cable where it goes through the block/bell housing...

A very telling photograph. Such a difference!

Yes-Rocker gear off, pushrods out, then lifters out as tasRx said. Radiator out & crank pulley off, that can be difficult. Then timing chain cover off, timing chain and cam gear off, and finally cam out. UNLESS you can't remove it with the oil pump and dizzy in place, as they drive off the cam. Anyway, its a pain unless the motor is on the bench. Now, the movement you felt.. That is the 'end float' in the crank and is controlled by the thrust bearing in the middle web, part of the main bearing there. It keeps the cranks in place when you push the clutch down. Measure the end float first up. The crank movement is between 0.04mm to 0.24mm with a maximum of 0.3mm. Easy to check with feeler gauges at that center thrust bearing. Then I reckon you should pop the main bearing shells out and check them. You can measure their clearances with Plastigauge too. If all the bearings have correct clearances then your low oil pressure is from somewhere else and you can keep chasing it.

You can check the main bearings in the caps easily enough, they just come off, but the timing chain will hold the crank in and make it difficut to get the block side bearings out. That's quite suprising looking at those bearings. Even if the bolts were loose the movement would still mark the white metal. There is something not right here...

Yes, nowhere near as bad as I expected. Does the one that was loose look worse than the others? I expected one that knocks to be down to the copper layer. The crank should be fine if that is the problem. You should measure the clearances with Plastigauge. Google it- I'd link it but.... The Administrator Does Not Allow Links To This Website...