altezzaclub

Did you take the inlet or exhaust manifolds off?? Check the nuts being up tight? Still sounds like carb... how about fuel pump not delivering anough to keep the float level up. Fuel pump not working on the cam correctly, that insulating spacer is important. Can you take it for a run and when it dies switch it off immediately, then take the carb top off and check how high the fuel is?? Not a very definative test, but if it is low or too high its a clue. Another option would be to ride it in the dying spot then turn it off and pull all 4 plugs on the roadside. See if they show signs of over-rich or lean. I'm planning exactly the same for my two KE70s in a week, head and everything off one onto the block in the other.... this is not sounding good! 0.4mm is 16thou, about right isn't it Clapped Out?.

Sounds like carb. Too lean for some reason, an air leak or an open vac line or a blocked pump jet. Does it run better if you pull the choke out? The ignition side of it looks OK.

Welcome in! It looks very neat 'n tidy. Paint code is on the build plate on the firewall. If you've got a race car then you'll have some great ideas for the KE70.

Ouch!! So just cut that cross-member right out and replace it with a box section, not too hard. Although it will end up as motor out, radiator panel cut off, crossmember off, suspension off and then chassis arms pushed outwards that little bit that they have been pulled in. Still, when you look at the rally crash videos.....

You don't have enough bulbs in the circuit. The greater the resistance, the slower it blinks. Are the indicators in the guards blinking as well as the ones in the bumper?? Are the back ones working properly? Right wattage bulbs?? The brake lights have a bulb in backwards. They have two pins sticking out from the stem, and in a single -element bulb like an indicator the pins are opposite each other. In a twin-filament bulb like a brake/tail bulb, the pins are not opposite one is high & one is low. If you are not careful when you put them in you can squeeze them in the wrong way around so you feed tail and brake at the same time. So you're more than halfway there, just go over the brake light bulbs and wiring carefully, especially earth wiring, and check out the total wattage in the indicator circuit.

You could measure it after you have calculated what you want like this- You have the length and width of the KE70 so you set it up in a garage with some string and chalk. Disconnect the steering arms, turn the wheels to where they should be and make the steering arms fit. You will need to weight the nose to the normal ride height you will be using. That will give you normal Ackerman steering, but if you're going to use it for motorsport you will want something more sophisticated. There is stacks on the web about it-

Arrrgh! I see what you mean! It was giant when I loaded it, but of course its been down-sized for server space. I just found it in Goolge when I looked for it yesterday, but today the only one there is this one! If I find the original again I will PM you. ---------------------------------------------- Rian had a copy on here back in 2012 Try this- Its 3493x938 http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v396/Beserker99/Random/T18WiringDiagramSmall.jpg

Nice! I wish I'd known about it when I did mine!

Well, to me this says there is nothing wrong with the igniter or the coil. Its a wiring problem supplying power to the ignition from the key. There must be a burned-out wire in the ignition setup somewhere, or in the key boss contacts. I think these were invented after 1982. It takes more power to make a spark jump a gap under compression, so if you add advance and the fuel mix is less compressed when you fire it, you can run a wider gap. Whether it makes a difference in real life I don't know, 10degrees of timing near TDC is a very small amount of compressing. Give it a try and see if it missfires under wide open throttle. You can see from the wiring diagram that the red dots (actually a red wire) feeds the coil power while cranking and also feeds the starter motor. (black & white wire) If this is broken you may be able to crank it but there will be no power to the coil while cranking. The green dots are the coil supply while the car is running and not on 'crank'. If this is broken then the car will fire when cranking but die as soon as you let the key off. Your American model might be different, seeing it has an igniter, but the car still needs wiring to do the same job, so check the wires from the key to the coil.

Take a look- whip the air cleaner off and watch as someone slowly pulls the choke out. It should close the flap over half the carb & lift the accelerator off the idle stop at the same time. You can adjust those I think (its been a while) so you can have the idle speed increasing before the flap closes over. That way you can keep a slightly higher idle without making it richer.

Have we got an emoticon for "Grammar Fail"? I'm worried that if I offer advice, it would take too long to decipher the replies...

So I phone up Auto Surplus for a full gasket set, I have plans for the Girl's Blue Beast... He asks me what year?.. 1983. Early or late?? Ah, well, I want to mix a motor of each, one a flatty, one a slanty. Two different gasket set numbers, so he goes and gets the books and compares the lists of the gaskets inside and the only difference is the sump gasket! So slantys have a different sump gasket to flattys! The early one is the 4K-C, the later one is just 4K. Anyone come across this?? BTW, Bursons said $190 for the full kit, I bought it from Auto Surplaus for $70, a Permaseal kit. It arrived 10minutes ago in Orange from Melbourne, and I only bought it yesterday. Get them while they're going!

Nice work on the rear end. That will make a big change.

Mike's right, I can't see why not- the best diff is the lightest and the cheapest in the best condition. Isn't the Skyline the most common replacement? The Hilux takes more grunt, but is heavier, so it depends on how much power you're after. If you have to shorten them it will up the price of some of them, and you'll have to get the driveshaft modified to suit the UJ coupling. Brakes and handbrake... it all gets quite complex really.

...and we need a topic on how to dismantle the K50 and replace the seal! You did take photos of course....

Damm its nice being an engineer!!! I'm surprised you didn't use a circle instead of a triangle as the spherical ball mount and drill holes all around the edge to get some adjustability. ...or does the spring hit the turret if you move it around?

Single DCOE Weber if there is a manifold for it. Otherwise you might make a manifold out of exhaust pipe and a plate.. if you don't want side-draught then maybe twin down-draughts like a 3K-B. Best would be twin DCOEs, for which there are manifolds, or quad Mikunis off a bike if you're keen. It depends on what you can find and how much room there is down that side of the engine. The T motors went to the USA and South Africa rather than here in Aussie, so any parts will be over there. At least with the pushrods you can have your cam re-cut for power, you can't do that with DOHC. You have to calculate the compression ratio for skimming the head, so learn up about using burettes and graph paper. You will end up with a figure of "x-thou skimmed off raises the compression by y-times". Just get it running sweetly and use it while you make a list of what you want to do, then start finding parts. Number one is to do a compression test, write it down then put a bit of oil in each cylinder and repeat it. That will give you an idea of how worn the rings are. Then work on the list... A spare head would be great, it means you can prepare everything and just swap it one weekend. I assume the easiest way to do a cam swap is by pulling the motor out, you might want to check up on that. Get the carbs and manifolds you want, match all the ports, then grind the head ports to suit Grind the valves in then de-shroud around them and finally get it skimmed as much as you want. You'll be stuck if you want your cam cut, but if you find a grinder that will supply one on deposit and you send your one back to him later, then do it. Buy a gasket set and away you go... Don't forget things like timing chain wear and tensioner wear... There is a lot to say for having the motor out for a week and getting the block cleaned and de-scaled. That would also be the time you checked the bearings for wear, its no good putting a hot head on a worn crank. With the block stripped you can measure the bore and see how worn the rings are, and if its pretty good a hone and new rings would give it extra power.. On that list is also to check the oil pump for wear. If you're pushed for time just do the head. Have the block water blasted out in the galleries and the radiator flushed and tested, as there is nothing worse than overheating a new hot motor and blowing the head gasket because there was 30years of rust scale stuck inside. Put a thermometer in the radiator cap hole and check what temperature the electric fan turns on at, it would be a shame if the sensor didn't work or the fan relay was blown. There's lots more, but that's enough to keep you busy!

Find out what other cars use that igniter and get one from a wrecker. If you can find out the coil resistance get one from a car that has a similar resistance. The last one I bought came with an electronic coil and cost $10. Your timing expanation isn't clear to me, you might need to get a timing light and read actual degrees before TDC. More important than the total timing advance is the rate at which it advances, and an electronic controller to do that would be a great step forward. If not, once you have it running nicely you can play with the springs on the dizzy weights to increase the curve..

Sounds like a bad contact somewhere. If I had the car in front of me I could fix it, but I have't been back to Kaapstad for a few years now... On the lights, power is fed from the relay via the red/black wire to the bulbs, then each filament feeds back to the dipswitch through red/green & red/yellow. The dipswitch earths one of the other, or both for flashing the lights. You need to get a cheap multimeter and see that you have the circuit from the relay, through the light bulb and up to the steering column plug. You could rig up a 12V test light and two longish lengths of wire to feed 12V from the battery into the R/G wire and pick it up at the column plug where you earth it through the test light. Get a needle or something as a probe to stick into the ends of the plugs and put an alligator clips onto the needle. Its really just a matter of doing that for the circuits that aren't working properly. There will be bad connections somewhere, adn from the list of things that aren't working there is more than one problem.. Here is how the dipswitch works, you may have problems in the steering column that will affect lights/indicators/horn/wipers, they all go up there through a couple of plugs. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/58878-how-to-fix-your-abysmal-headlights/page__st__30 Work your way through your wiring diagram checking that each wire does carry power to your test light/meter at the other end.

Well done! There's nothing better than a giant job that works when you finish it! Did they give you a dyno graph perhaps.....?

I don't see any big rocks in the photos.. were you one the road when you hit it?? ..or was it a wombat that then walked away?? :laff: That seems to be the favourite excuse in Australia, wombats or kangaroos!

Ah, education is expensive! Doesn't look too bad?

Damm, this thing will go! I wonder if you could run a rev-limited clutch on the SC so it disconnected at 5000 and let the motor become NA at the top of the rev range. Will the SC survive at the sort of revs the motor will pull high up??

Well,, that explains why it was such an odd problem! Aren't those M motors famous for BHGs, somethng about the factory toque figures were not high enough??

I can't imagine which way you going to bend them to make them captive. Being captive depends on the shock extension length, and if you're fitting short stroke shocks then they should hold shorter springs in. Option two would be to get "top hat" plastic spacers made to fit at the top of the spring and move them down 20mm, that 's how we did a 'tarmac conversion' on the rally car! I'd use stockies, the Falcon is heavier so they are stiffer already and they're probably free at any wrecker. I haven't used them so I don't know how well the diameters fit. Don't rush into cutting them until you have the shocks on the car, then take a bit off at a time. (haha!! Who am I kidding... get some mates around, sink lots of piss, do some skids then at 2am hack the hell out of it until its ruined! Everyone does!) If you make it stiff at the back and stock at the front it will step out sideways suddenly. It will also pick up the inside rear wheel and single-spin you all over the place. Take the rear sway bar off & try it without first..