altezzaclub

Buy the Mustang! Fit the motor-box-diff to the KE70, throw the rest away! ..and always drive all the options before even thinkiong about making a decision in life!

So if you take the plugs out and turn it to a few mm past top dead centre you could put a piece of dowell wood in the plug hole and see if you can push the piston down. If you find one piston with more movement than the other three you know its a damaged small end. It will only be a mm or less, more than that would be even noisier! The sexy test would be to mount a dial gauge down the plug hole and measure at now many degrees each piston moves downwards. If you don't find a bad piston you can't eliminate them, but it may be something else as well..

Sadly I don't think so. The times we have stripped an 18R I've seen the crank doesn't leave much room for one of those big pistons to fit past.

I can't use Youtube with my pathetic Telstra 256K, but an important question would be- Did you take the pistons out? A broken ring or a cracked piston would make a rattley noise that quietens down as the piston heats up and expands faster than the steel block. If they finally fix my net next week I will check the video.

You'll have to put the Malpassi in instead of the stock FPR, not after it, If you have high pressure now with the stock one it just can't flow enough fuel through to drop the pressure, or its not working correctly. So if you leave it in place you will still have that high fuel pressure pumping into the injectors. Definately fit a pressure gauge while you set it up. Tried the brakes?? You might have to go to the gym to build up big leg muscles! You'll need nearly 30% more push to get the same braking.

Ah... the country of Telstra, where ALL phone lines go, to be answered by $2/hr Asians with no training in telecomunication equipment or in speaking colloquial Australian! Having been trying to get my internet re-connected for a week I can see why you get wound up about the place.

Noo! Not only a lovely Crown bent but the neighbours will be upset too! That's bad luck!

Well, for $100 the engineer made me a tool and we screwed the round plate further down. That seems to have solved the idle problem, although it is further down than stock as it doesn't idle at 2000rpm as soon as you start it. Then I tackled the 'cutting out and dying when hot' problem that has surfaced recently. It just leans out when idling and dies, and sometimes when driving. I popped the hose off the feed end of the main pump to drain the surge tank into a jar, and nothing came pouring out! It trickled and trickled after a moment, until I realised it was siphoning from the fuel tank. Then I had The Girl run the lift pump while I got underneath with the jar and pulled the hose from the tank off the fuel line... nothing agian! Yet I could hear the pump running! The next step was to take the sender unit out in the boot and look inside the tank, and as I couldn't see a lift pump at all I had to drop the tank! Finally I could see the problem! So it is all back together again with screw clips instead of clamps, and we will see how it goes tomorrow. If nothing else, it shows that the main pump can suck from the boot to the front, just not very well!

Seems like your problem is there. So that is taking the dizzy wire off the coil -ve and running your multimeter down the coil wire and across to earth. Which means the power is shorting out when the points are open Which means you have broken points that are shorting out, or a broken wire that is shorting out, or a condenser that is shorting out, or the points wiring assembled incorrectly so it shorts out or... With points open that coil-ve wire shouldn't go to earth.

That is what it should be, the ballast resistor knocks the 12V down to 9V so the 9V coil can run all day. You should get that 9V at coil +ve with the ignition turned on. When you turn the key to crank another wire bypasses the resistor and takes ignition 12V straight to the coil +ve. You only get 9V anyway because of the current drain of the starter motor. So your last post is correct, the coil gets 9V cranking and 'running'. So the ballast resistor is OK, but the condensor should have been one of the first things to change. Bad leads give odd misfires, the coil you can check with a multimeter, and the dizzy cap you can spray with WD40 to overcome most cracks. If you use a multimeter on 'ohms' you should get no circuit from the coil -ve to earth when the points are open, and a circuit of an ohm or two when the points are closed. This is with the ignition off, the tacho wire taken off the coil, and you turn the motor with a spanner. That will tell you if the points are opening and closing and carrying electricity. There could be a broken wire inside the dizzy, it is unusual for all spark to vanish at once. Wiring diagram is here if you need one- https://www.dropbox.com/s/s0xs2udvrv9qfl2/downloadfile.jpg?dl=0

I would've done number 1, pulse from coil -ve to the tacho and then to earth. It works in the Hoonicorn with the 5K electronic ignition, and the Girls KE70 is the same with the 4AGE. You've checked the wire from the coil to the tacho is OK?

The vacuum diaphram pretends to be an accelerator pump on the stock motor, so it has a lot to do with response. When you have high vac it sucks the regulator open and lowers fuel pressure. When you boot it and the vcacuum collapses it closes the diaphram exit and the high fuel pressure puts extra fuel through the injectors. If you put in a much more powerful pump it will over-whelm the regulator. You'll need to measure the fuel pressure really, the stock setup figures are around on web, something like 50psi. I'm not sure the usual VL pump setup is working like the AE86 original, no-one seems to measure it and everyone just uses it. See if you can find flow rate for the Bosch pump and compare it to yours.

Love the spray booth! Well done!

Like this- They keep the leaf spring but locate it in place.

nope- look in a KE70 and see how they re-inforced the body where the springs push the force to. Sme with the link arms, they need to spread the force into the floor so they don't tear out. Nce idea though. You wouldn't settle for just the bottom arms being fitted onto the leafs?

Nooo ..!! Banjo has made a complete programmable igntion system for the K dizzy, but it used one of those as its core! That was on my long-term list!

I haven't heard of oil caps being blown off! Take a look under the tappet cover vent inside the cover. If the plate leading to the vent is 90% blocked with shit it would explain your problem. Do you want to drill a second vent into the oil cap itself? Make a 1/2" hole and fit a hose barb to it, run both to a catch tank. The best solution would be a dry-sump scavenge pump! It must be blowing oil vapour past the crank seals too, so it will eventually slip the clutch. If you hunt the web enough you'll find a figure for how much blowby you should have in a car, measured by fitting a hose to the tappet cover vent and leading it under a jar in a tub of water. Its a few litres/min, but I can't remember the figure. Like a compression test, its a bit meaningless as the blowby when the car is stationary, even at 3000rpm, is nothing compared to full throttle when driving. No tapping sound of a broken ring?? It doesn't sound like normal ring wear to me.

Very nice! A 300k trip through the mountains? KE or JZX?... easy decision!

Photographs, diagram and an explanation! Might as well get it all in this thread for the future.

Jeez!! You hit every part of the whole style there! http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=115592 What did it drive like? Would your auntie or your granny like it?

I reckon its as good as you can expect. I have a slightly hotter cam than you with twin SUs carbs and I don't worry about anything over 5500rpm. In the end its a non-crossflow pushrod ancient 1.3L, so don't expect much. You can make it fun around town, but its nothing going up hills at 100kph. You can get a DCOE carb and a hotter cam for 7000rpm, but it will be harder to drive around town in the 2000-3000rpm range. I've put your cam on the bottom of this chart, I have the Crow one marked. The important figures are the durations at 50thou, the lifts max out at 0.4" as they reckon you need new valves springs with more lift than that. I don't think any of these cams would rev easily to 6500, but other things like carbs and port design would make a big difference. You should have a dyno run with an oxy sensor to see if it is rich or lean in the rev range. Then again, you could go for a drive with a plug spanner, run it up to whatever revs with wide open throttle then turn the key off & push in the clutch. Pop the plugs out and they will show you what it is running like at those revs. Check the maximum advance too, maybe a bit more advance will allow it to rev further. What fuel do you use?? 95 or 98? Using a 4.3 diff wakes it up a little over the 4.1, and don't rush for larger tyres on 15" rims... The smaller the tyre diameter the quicker the acceleration.

Front roll bar on a FWD... They must have a lot of rear power bias to stop the understeer! I think they just love building neat clean beautiful bits of steel together, I reckon they'll never really drive it!

I don't know if they would fit, but remember you don't have power steering. Even 14x6 zero-offsets were heavy in the steering when we used them, and you have a lot more tyre sticking to the road. Do you have a motor big enough to turn them? Also, get a weight of tyre and rim and compare them to what you are using. There might be a lot more weight pounding up and down on the suspension. I ruined my Lotus Europa with a set of Dunlops many years ago, compared to the Pirellis I took off they were banging on the steering over every bump and rattled the car body all the time. 205/50 would be close to stock, but by the time you get to 225/50 it is pushing the diff ratio up by over 5% Still, it will look pretty good if you can get them on!

Thought I'd tackle the high and varying idle before engineering. Its fine when cold, terribly high when warm, which suggests the waxstat cylinder in the cold idle air control. It is small when cold and lets extra air into the TB, then as the water warms up the wax expands and closes off the bleed hole, which it stops doing after 20years. You can put your finger over the bleed hole in the TB when the motor is warm and suddenly the idle speed drops. Nippon Denso haven't made the units for decades, and the ones for sale in the USA are $US250-$US300. Of course Alibaba have them for under $10 if you buy 200... As a distraction I re-filed the hole in the TPS actuator, as someone had fitted a TPS off another car & it sat at 90deg to what it should. Now it doesn't have a flatted circle to grip the flatted shaft, but I figure it takes such little force to turn the actual TPS piece, the clamping grip of the nut will be enough to hold the actuator in place. If I'm wrong I'll lose open throttle position slowly and have to fix it properly! Then off with the TB and take the idle control off that. A run through water of varying temperature showed it does expand and close down the hole, but I can't tell if it seals it. It has that size hole when the motor is cold, then should close up like this. A guy in the MR2 forums did a brilliant bit of work on his and explained the whole system. He made a tool to adjust the end plate that the waxstat seals against so he could screw it further in. This sorts out the problem that plagues nearly all the 1980s 4AGEs by now. I knocked up a wooden one out of a stray bit of hardwood, but that disc has aged in there tight! That was a complete fail, as was trying to hammer it around with a cut-down allen key! So I might have to talk to my local engineer about making an 8-pronged cylindrical tool for this. Anyone have one??

That is a very serious restoration! It even looked so good when you bought it.. I wouldn't worry about lowering it until its finished, the suspension side of things is much simpler than what you are doing. Isn't that a Mk2 Cortina sitting beside it, just waiting for its cream paint, green Lotus stripe and a BDA??