altezzaclub

Is the arm coming out of the gearbox right at the front of the hole if you pull it forward?? That would mean a problem inside if the cable couldn't pull it any further. Does the cable hold the arm up against the flywheel when you set the cable up?? You should have the pedal up high so as soon as you push it you can feel the pressure of the pressure plate. Then it is up to the pressure plate and the clutch plate to do their work. My circlip used to pop out of the cable groove at the firewall until I put a circlip in front of it and screwed it up. The cable has stretched enough for me to need a platic spacer washer in there too.

You can have a couple of Kg skimmed off on a lathe, its pretty common and makes a difference you can feel in the lower gears. This is mine after it was skimmed when we swapped out the auto box. 66NM for flywheel bolts torque. I haven't got a bolt lying around to measure at home, I can check in a week at the Woolshed when I'm up there.

That's an interesting one, we didn't get diesels in Aussie as far as I know. How is the fuel economy??

Make sure you take the jets out and spray solvent and/or compressed air through the passageways behind them. I use a syringe full of petrol to hose them out.

Were the holes in the flywheel a perfect fit for the new bolts, or were the holes hammered out of shape when the flywheel got loose?? That was the start of the problem- Now, has it caused some thread damage, or was THAT problem itself caused by something in the crank or the flywheel being wrong. Those bolts are high-tensile steel, so you may not have got the right grade bolts from the shop. They don't need lockwashers, they are done up to the specified torque that stretches the steel just the right amount. So you need to find the right bolts and use a torque wrench to get them right. Meantime, plan for a new flywheel. If you are going to hammer the car in motorsport you need something lighter than the stock flywheel, and that may cure your loosening problem.

Run it on manifold vac. You will still set the idle advance to 8-10deg without vac, then set the idle speed when you connect the vac up. (adding vac will increase the idle speed) If it pinks at all just retard the timing until it doesn't. Manifold vac adds about 5deg more advance than ported vac when driving, but obviously 10deg more at idle when the ported vac is closed off. The figures I measured are all in my topic about fitting an electronic dizzy and changing the spring rates to make it work. I've run on manifold vac, ported vac and both at once at different times.

If you need that much sideways I reckon you're so deep in the shit you're not getting out! It will lose the self-centering at that angle won't it?? Might not want to come back straight with weight on it. It will lock up if the inner steering arm goes past 180deg, you will be pushing the steering arm into the LCA notch instead of pushing it away from it. The drag on the wheel at that angle will jam the steering arm into the notch too. Should be educational anyway!

All good then- The difference in the vacuum is that ported vac on the carb is blocked off at idle, then the moment you open the throttle a touch it gives a signal. With throttle wide open the signal dies. With manifold vacuum the signal is strongest at idle, so it gives lots of advance then. On part throttle it gives less advance, and gives no advance at full throttle. It was all designed to add advance when cruising, as such small throttle applications meant little fuel being burned and more advance gives it time to scavenge the pockets of fuel in the cylinder & reduce emissions. If you boot the car to overtake someone the advance falls off to stop it knocking under full load. Manufacturers usually call for timing to be set without vac connected, and at idle the weights are not working either, so it is a real baseline figure you set it to. Then vac advances it at idle or just above, and the weights take over at about 1200rpm to advance it up to 2500rpm or so. You can set it to suit the fuel and the altitude you drive with. If you measure some accleration times and accurately check your L/100Km you might end up with more advance than factory. The 4K runs happily on 18deg or more at idle, but then it won't like 50deg max advance.

..and that's why it lost performance. As it lost spark advance it doesn't run as well, and it will run hot. Fit the new points and condensor, and make the gap 0.45mm when the points rubbing block is on top of one of the shoulders of the shaft. That is the maximum opening, the time when you set the gap. You will have to rotate the motor with a spanner to get it sitting right. Lots on the web about how to set points. Make sure you are working on cylinder one firing, so take off the oil cap and watch the rockers for #1 as you turn the spanner. When the #1 exhaust closes you have started the compression stroke and the next time the timing mark comes up it is firing #1. The rotor will turn towards the #1 plug lead as you do this. Stop when the pulley notch gets to 15deg or so. Then turn the keys onto ignition and rotate the motor with a spanner until the pulley timing mark comes up to the 10deg mark on the timing cover. Turn the dizzy until the points spark and you will see them start to open. Turn it back and slowly forward until you have it just firing at 10deg and the rotor points to #1 cyl lead. It rotates clockwise, so retarding timing is turning the dizzy clockwise, advancing is turning the dizzy anti-clockwise. Too bad if you've only ever seen digital clocks! That is your ignition timing and it should be at the 10deg mark. Mark the pulley notch with white paint so it is easy to see, and mark the 10deg & zero on the cover. If you can get it right then re-assemble it, run it and check it with the timing light. 10deg at idle, no vac tube on. If you can't rotate the dizzy enough, you'll have to rotate it a tooth. Let us know if you have to do that & we can tell you how.

Ah, you should have set the timing correctly when you had the light, then you could check it now & see if it has moved. So, factory set is 8deg at idle with vac disconnected and blocked. In reality the vac should make no difference at idle anyway. Then if you rev it the timing will max out at 36deg by 3000rpm. Now if it was running fine when you put it back together something has changed. Check the points, are the tight enough or were they left a bit loose. The screws just have to hold the plate in place, not very tight, but check the gap to see if it has shrunk. They were new points I assume, and you always replace the condenser when you fit new points. Is the dizzy tight?? Same thing, that 12mm bolt head just has to lightly grip the dizzy enough to make sure it doesn't move. Did they put a touch of grease on the points rubbing block so it doesn't wear away by running dry on the dizzy cam?? Usually that takes a few months. Is the ballast resistor correctly wired up?? Did you have it disconnected during the work? It knocks the "run" ignition feed down to 9volts for the 9volt coil, and it gets by-passed when you crank the motor on "start' so it lets the full 12V to the coil. It gets hard to start without it doing that. Grab that light again and check the idle timing then watch the light when you raise the revs a bit. Pull the vac line off at about 1500-2000rpm and see if the timing retards so you know the vac advance is working. Grab a compression gauge and check the compressions, and grab that R10 Chinese electric test meter and see if all the leads have the same resistance. Inspect the dizzy cap for cracks or carbon trails, unless it came new with your dizzy. Coils are harder to test, maybe somenoe has a bench tester to see. It sounds like it is misfiring under load at low revs, then clears when it really gets going. I reckon electrical rather than fuel, but who knows? Once you have solved all the problems you have learned so much you never need to pay a mechanic!

maybe... Take the black wire off and make sure 12V comes out of it when you turn the key. If that is fine then the problem is inside the starter/solenoid. Did you fit new carbon brushes? I'm not sure if you fitted new brass bushes to carry the armature or new carbon brushes. If it worked on the bench it must be a simple problem.

Probably the best carb is the newst one! Old worn carb bleed air in and get inefficient, but you have to use what you can find. Twin Weber side-draught DCOE I reckon give most power, but will cost a fortune to buy and to run. Don't forget you will have to buy chokes and jets on top of the carb price to get it right. Great for racing or rallying. A single DCOE will do the job just fine, as you can see from the image. SUs are cheaper to run, as you can see from my build threads. I could make the car quicker with bigger carbs, but under 7L/100km is nice. Newer carbs are on motorbikes, quads Mikuni or Kehins seem to work really well. Check out Tommys KE10. Don't use a carb that is too big, they need a good flow velocity at low speed to mix the fuel correctly, and it is a pain to drive a car that bogs down every time you push the accelerator. Having great power over 5000rpm is no good if it dies down at 2000, which is where you take off from robots and stop signs. The stock cams can help overcome the poor airflow at low revs, but if you re-cam it later then the bottom end gets really bad. The carb should be at maximum flow at your peak revs, and a lot of people have carbs that are probably only at 50% then. That means all the potential of the carb is wasted and they have lost a lot of performance in the low and mid range.

Like this- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/68673-how-to-fit-an-electric-fan/ Don't be fussed about which fan to use, whatever fits, and its much easier to use a new exteral relay instead of putting it inside the fusebox like I did. Power the relay from the ignition & earth it through the thermoswitch, so it turns the fan on at 95deg.

haha- which part of South Africa ISN'T a high-risk area?? Even a new KE70 would be easy to steal. They break in, smash the steering lock, cut the key wires off with side-cutters and jump the ignition & starter then drive away. Or once inside they could open the bonnet & run jump wires to coil and staeter activator wires if they wanted to. The rotor is the best idea, even just the coil high-tension wire. How about a motorsports kill switch on the battery & you take the key paddle with you?? Its cleaner than mucking around in an oily dizzy. You just have to make sure the wires can't be bridged, but I can't see car thieves taking time to disconnect your kill switch. Run the earth from down on the chassis up to the switch then to the battery. Cover the bare terminals in epoxy so they can't be bridged or unbolted, but then you will have that problem in the future. Maybe painted black & mounted in the grill somewhere so you don't have to open the bonnet to get it. The problem there is some smart-arse might steal the kill switch paddle when you park anywhere, so don't make it noticeable. Chain through the steering wheel?? Big wheel lock bar??

Yeah, I would've been up there but the tenant in my rental here told me she was leaving & I'm buried in house renos atm. Taken a couple of weeks after lifting the carpet & realising the house has wonderful T&G flooring underneath to get this far. I'll do the hallway myself and get new carpet in the rest, its just so much sanding!. Steve has a couple of operations on his wrist to recover from, it wasn't healing straight, but we'll be right in a month. This coming week is WRC so I've finally accepted Pete's invitation to go up and watch it from his chopper. Its the last rally for VW, after this the world champion is out of a job!

It could be the water pump packing up or a metal fan blade cracked, so yes, take off the fan belt and see if the noise is still there. With the belt off you might feel some play in the fan or the pump shaft. Time to convert to electric fan if it is. A loose timing chain makes a real rattle sound usually, maimly at idle & starting up as the tensioner relies on oil pressure. Not just some metal plate on the exhaust or somewhere??

I can't see one. The cars are very similar apart from the upper body shell, the KE70 came out with the 4A-C motor over here as the AE71, and the AE86 motor drops straight in to the 4-door body. For us the KE70s are far far cheaper to buy, so you would have to be really keen to use an AE86. Over there they may be cheaper to buy. I'm with LittleRedSpirit, the big six will ruin the quick agile handling the KE70 has.

Well, the T motor wasn't so common over here, but what you plan is fine. Exhaust, a cam grind, a porting job and a single side draught carb will do the job, or twin 40 Webers/Dellortos if you think fuel is cheap. I wouldn't worry about conrods etc unless you are going to race it. Lighten the flywheel certainly, that does help acceleration. I don't know what they rev to, but the design is like the 18RG tractor motor we used to rally on, rather than the high-reving low torque 4AGE we use now. Design it to use the torque to pull cleanly from low down, rather than concentrate it all at the top end. So keep the carbs & exhaust smaller rather than larger. I'd settle for a 2.25" exhaust, as larger will get more noisey but not any more 'muscular.' The best thing you could get would be a limited slip diff, preferably OS Giken or a Kazz etc if you can't afford it. Find a 17mm rear sway bar if you can, or an 18mm. Chase RA60 Celicas, the last T-series live axles, at the wreckers if you can find any, their sway bars are a start. You can buy a new 4.8 crown wheel and pinion for acceleration and drifting, but it will be tiring at 100kph, the usual trade-off. You should be able to find a 4.3 ratio in the auto version or somewhere. It will work on the stock suspension & brakes, unless you're a Kappie and love those mountain passes! Then its time for bigger struts to take bigger front discs. Chop a coil and a bit off the springs, like you're not meant to but everyone does, or buy coil-overs. Are you in with the Box Boys??

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/OSK-TIMING-CHAIN-TENSIONER-GEAR-KIT-FOR-TOYOTA-K-3K-DOUBLE-ROW-Corolla-KE-/301974908288?hash=item464f1b6d80:g:fVIAAOSwnFZXUs52&vxp=mtr

Its hard to say from the photos, but they look fine. They may not have negative camber, but they are close to zero. I've seen KE70s with more positive camber than those. Its not hard to check, all you need is a spirit level and verniers.. Even a smartphone with a straight piece of timber and a good ruler. Just get the spirit level vertical up against the tyre, or a length of wood with a 'level' app on your phone, and measure to the rim top and bottom. There will be a few mm difference, and if you measure across the rim you can draw a triangle on paper then find the camber angle of the rim. Fitting cambertops or longer LCAs will make it better, but it may be fine just like it is.

Yes, that's the angle that is under discussion. You can alter camber also with longer lower control arms from an XT Corona or even longer from a Mitsi Sigma. With RA40 struts you will run into steering arm fitment problems, the bolt centers are different. Then if you use the Celica steering arms as well as struts the arms are longer and it reduces your steering lock. We're using RA40 struts with AE86 power steering arms now. With the car lowered so much you can expect to run into bump steer problems, which is where the spacers come into play. Whatever you use, get a wheel alignment on it and see what has happened. The seat mount needs to be considerable heavier than that, it has to withstand 12G as I remember, before you go racing. He has it sitting on the floor rather than on the cross-bar like factory. We built the rally car seats on the cross-bar and turreted it up to the height we wanted. Sort out what height you want and build something solid up to it. Like this- although you won't be able to go back to the stock seat... http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/69126-how-to-build-a-rally-car/page__st__15

Well, you'll never have any trouble roll-starting with that driveway! makes you wonder how dents get in a roof.. apart from hail damage that is, so many cars with repainted roofs & boot & bonnets!

That is a big improvement! Sounds like its worth pulling the manifolds off and fitting a one-piece gasket instead of the factory-style two piece. Take the opportunity to check all the holes for dirt and bad threads, clean up the bolts, measure the manifold thicknesses and sort out the half washers. Watch for where nuts do up on the sholder of the welds of the extractors too, they're not that good a quality in manufacture.

Take the carpet out and leave it to dry, and the bare floor will show you where it comes in. Once you have a drip trail you can follow that up to the leak. You could put newspaper over it all when it rains next, that will show drip lines. Does it leak parked uphill and downhill, or just one way. Absolutely only when it rains, no chance of it being the heater leaking??

Haha! Well gosh, I wonder why you need a new gearbox! It must fly now!