altezzaclub

Go the Whiteline 18mm rear sway. I'm running an aftermarket Celcia one which takes it up around that. Someone on here had a run of 19mm ones made, maybe he has one left. Corona front LCAs for getting rid of the positive camber, makes it pretty much zero. Toyos I prefer, used them for years on the Altezza, T1Rs. Hopefully Superlite live up to their name, you want the lughtest rims/tyres you can get. I'm not sure if castor bushes will do much, they don't work that hard. LCA bushes yes, and check the outer balljoint of the LCA carefully. They can be replaced easily. Remove the lower washer of the top front sway bush and put a couple of springs in there. That allows the front to roll a little to get initial turn-in, then the springs make the sway bar work. File out the washer hole so it floats up and down. Find a banjo style T-series diff & start saving for an LSD !

That's what I find, the outer edge is easy to seal with RTV or similar.

You would feel the balancing problem before the leak happened. Old motors leak because the original seal wears a groove in the crank, and the new seal runs in that groove without the help of the dirt and tar that kept the old seal working. I'd worry about the punch because it would cause a local distortion that would leak further around. Overall I have no magic answers, my 4K leaked too! I think they leak to start with then settle down after a few months, either to continue to drip or to seal up.

Well, got the rental finished enough to rent and headed back up to the Woolshed.. Finished fitting a new heater to the Hoonicorn KE70 and swapped that for the Girls KE70 as a daily. Back to a 4K from a 4AGE.. We finished the mezzanine, loaded the shelves with timber and packed a few more KE70s in there. Then the next distraction was the car trailer that Pete had bought for us. It suffered bad design from the day it was built in someone's back yard, and also suffered bad engineering from someone learning how to weld as they built it! Anyway, we chopped and changed it and re-welded bits of it, and its rego's and in use. Its up for sale, $1500 rego's with new tyres, as we want to swap a trailer that will carry a landcruiser for a trailer that will only carry KE70s, so maybe 1200kg max load. Torn between buying something that will do the job, or building something that will be superb at that one job.. I'm back in Orange for a month, then hoping to hit the farm in mid-Jan. Steve has the last cast on his wrist so things will accelerate!

FatCatMotorsports are talked about a lot for gymkhana/autocross work with their progressive bumpstops. This sort of thing- https://forum.miata....ad.php?t=401320 They look like this- and work as part of the suspension setup like this- See what you can find...

Good for another 40years! Its a shame it took another decade to make car bodies that are so rustproof. You just don't see rusty cars in the newer stuff at the wreckers.

Can you hear them rattle when you start up?? I had to do it on the Girls KE70 after we bought it, purely becasue someone had fitted an oil filter with no non-return valve. Every time you turned the motor off the oil would drain back to the sump, and then it would take 5seconds to get oil pressure when you started. The sump job was impossible in the KE70, it was easier to take the motor out and do a head job at the same time. With the head off I scraped all the scale out of the block coolant galleries. It surprised me how two handfuls of rusty flakes could hide in there. I had the crank cleaned and fitted new bearings, but never took the pistons out. Its never run hot since then. You can buy hi-flow thermostats too, so they control temperature when cold as usual, but flow 30% more water when open.

I wander around a wreckers yard for bump stops. There is an MX5 site that gets right into custom bump stops and their effects, it is quite fascinating. The Celica we rallied had Falcon front ones fitted in the rear... Longer and softer than stock, so they started to add to the spring rate earlier and then had time to decelerate the chassis before full compression.

How fast are you driving?? Crawling over rocks at walking pace will certainly keep it hotter than a 100kph cruise. Does the oil pressure light flicker at idle? Drop the oil into a clean container and replace it with some cheap stuff and see if that is the difference. You can get Castrol GTX 15W-50 at Supercheap.

The stock shock will work fine. As Little Red Spirit said, 30mm is no problem. ....unless you drive over bumpy roads at speed with a full load. Being stiffer springs even that shouldn't bottom anything out. You might want to work out what happens first, the spring coil-binds or the shock bottoms out before then. If the coil binds first then the shock won't bottom out ever. You can always fit bump stops in there too, so they take up the last 30mm of travel. You're doing it very correctly! Most guys just reach for a grinder to get 30mm...!

If you're never going to have four people and their luggage in the car you can remove a leaf or two. That will soften and lower the car, so you will need softer, progressive bump stops and shocks with stronger resistance to compression.

will you have to turret the rear shocks if it is that low and you've already cut the floor for the diff?? Re-setting the springs is the best way to lower the car.

that is sad! but true.... I use 15W-40, the 4K, the 4AGE, the SR20 and the 3SGE.. Makes life simple. I've used thicker and thinner oils without any gains.

yeah, that's why they dance on undulating gravel roads.. but the traction coming out of a corner is way ahead of a live rear axle. Do you get understeer? I used to cut the top seat off the front roll bar uprights & put a couple of valve springs in there. It lets it roll a little iinitially to get turned in, then the springs take up and hold it as flat as usual. How's the Alfa de-dion plan going?? I've been thinking about it for the rally car, it gets more weight to the rear with an Alfetta rear gearbox. ...and for 1L/100km more you're getting over three times the power of a 4AGE !

Thanks for that- I saw the GPI ones on there. Something to watch out for. I'm going to weigh a few different ones, then fill them and weigh them again. Should be interesting. I've got the Worley one, for simplicity with the 4AGE. Both outlets on the same side. I haven't checked what we have for the rally car, its probably the same. They're both in cardboard boxes on the top shelf in the Woolshed. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-alloy-radiator-for-Toyota-Corolla-AE71-AE72-/180952023204?hash=item2a2194c0a4:g:4RkAAOxydlFSsV-b&vxp=mtr

Finally finished that off in Christmas week & bought it back home. Fully converted to non-A/C, so if anyone wants to buy the factory aircon setup it is all in the Woolshed. With the eyeball vents sealed from outside air the plastic tubes under the dash are all different. Nice to drive again, I ran through the mountains around Sofala behind a keen ute at 110-120kph and we kept up OK, which it would never have done stock. The stock suspension handles well and is very predictable, so some careful work will make it a great surprise for some people on tarmac.

Well, I drove the Hoonicorn for a couple of months, then I swapped them back as the Hoonicorn developed a leaking heater. I drove the Beast for 6weeks then took it back up while we remade the car trailer we had inherited and then left it up there. Next job is an alloy rad from Ebay, I've finally decided to bite the bullet and buy one. The stock one has worked well, but a hot day trip to the coast and back showed it really battled to drop the temperature around town in traffic. Still no red fuel light and still a treacherous idle when warm, but I'll get around to it!

Autos don't have a flywheel, just a very thin flex plate to carry the torque converter. You'll need a manual flywheel. Electric windows... I think you'll have to try that one yourself.

Its just a drop & swap.. Luckily Toyota kept most things the same and just slipped another gear into the tail-end housing of the gearbox, not really :"inside." When all the other work is done, get the dizzy recurved. The guys that do it are in Melb, their name escapes me atm, and tell them what you have done to the car and what you intend to use it for. 0.4" is the usual max lift before you need new valve springs, so many cams are designed around that. Some of the guys on here are running the Tighe 104 with stock springs, its only 23thou more lift. Get the followers ground by the cam company so the cam runs on a new surface. The head work isn't hard, you could do it yourself as an education, but otherwise it will be some racing car outfit who can do it all for you.

That is very strange. They should be able skim it straight and balance it, but it depends on how bent it is. Just ask a machine shop that does engine machining. They might have to make up a dummy crankshaft end to be sure the centre where it bolts on is the true center of balance. It depends on how it is warped. It might cost more than a new one, certainly another 2nd-hand one. Still, nice to know why it was coming loose.

The motor is common, all the SSS pulsars have them, but the RWD gearbox setup means finding one from the 200SX style cars. They're getting pretty old and worn-out now, the last one was made 15years ago. We have a SSS as a run-about and I think about it now and then, the torque is great and the power delivery smooth, but the 4AGE I dropped into one of the KE70s was a simpler process. The Mazda MX5 drive-train is newer and probably just as easy (or difficult) to fit. Other than that its difficult to find modern light-weight RWD set-ups.

Search through my content and you will find a topic about the KE70 wiring diagram. In there you will find a link to a large-scale copy someone nicely hosted for us. If I attach it here it will get reduced in size.

Now it is running like it should. The choke creates drag in the incoming air, hence a larger vacuum in the inlet maniold when running and that sucks more fuel through the jets. That richer mixture can afford to lose fuel as it condenses out on the cold metal walls and still leave enough to run the motor. It also raise the idle speed with the choke screw, which you can adjust usually. When you push the choke in things all return to 'warm motor' settings', and I find I might need to pull the choke out again a little if I have to stop in the first minute or so of driving, but actually driving along is fine. A dirty air filter richens the mixture, but it has to be very dirty to have than effect.

I don't know the weight of a 3T flywheel, but a 4K is about 8kg I think. I took a couple of kg off, which is pretty normal, as they are cast steel, not forged. If you want to get below 6kg you'll be buying an aftermarket forged flywheel that is manufactured to be light. There is a limit as to how much you can take off a cast one without it flying to pieces, especially under the stress you are talking about. This sort of thing- http://www.brdracing.com/t50_t40_w50_drivetrain.htm http://www.blingfactory.fi/Flywheel-Toyota-2T-3T-725-clutch

The pressure plate pushes the arm back until the thrust bearing just touches the fingers, and that is what moves the lever back & pulls the cable down. Its normal to have lots of play behind the arm until you adjust the cable tight. Tthen as you pull the arm backwards you're trying to lift the clutch pedal higher than its stop, and when you push the arm forwards you're trying to push the pressure plate in. Grab the cable under the bonnet and pull it away from the firewall towards the front. It should move 10-15mm at the most. That decides where the clutch pedal takes up, and it gets adjusted with the circlip. I'm worried that it might just be wrongly adjusted on your car and there's nothing else wrong. Anyway, new clutch time- Make sure you drain the g'box before pulling it out, otherwise its oil on the floor time! I'd waterblast underneath at the local DiY carwash if you can, working on a dirty greasy oily car is not nice. Battery off, clutch cable, reverse lights wires & speedo cable off, driveshaft & gearlever out, starter off, bell-housing cover plate off, jack under the g'box to take its weight & undo the last bell-housing bolts. Read lexsmaz' post above.. buy a torque wrench & clutch centering tool before you start. Over here the clutch kit is not guaranteed unless you get the flywheel skimmed. Often it doesn't need it, but if you do pull it off to have it skimmed, get it lighened at the same time. Make sure you wash everything in petrol or degreaser before you put it all back. Pour 2.5L (for the 5-speed) of gearbox oil into the gearlever hole as the last job.