altezzaclub

Ah true, I'd forgotten about the 4-cyl BMW motors, I thought everything was a 6-cyl now. The M42+gearbox would be a good starter, although I don't know how the prices compare.

Probably, there is one on the wiring diagram I posted up. Auto only, the manuals don't have one. Have you tried the switch on the bench with a test light or meter?? That would tel you the switch works (or not!) Then try it in the car with a meter to see if it has a circuit in neutral gear, then finally look for 12V at the switch in the car.

Not overwhelming, it just took a picture of a circle with a cross in it on the back of an envelope... Have you ever seen a K head Dan?? or shall we send one over for you to play with?? I think it would be an amazing educaton for all of us on here!

All sadly true, what Dave just said... If you're willing to look outside Toyota, then I reckon Maxda M5 is the way to go. Buy the newest motor & 6-speed you can afford and make it fit. They are sports-performance, not outright powerhouses, but that's all you need in a lightweight tin can like a KE70. In a FWD world it is getting harder and harder to find new motors in RWD format, or gearboxes that fit. With such a light body you need to keep weight down everywhere, or the handling will turn to shit. I'd go for the Ford Eco-boost if it wsa possible, or any current 1.3L turbo that weighs nothing and puts out amazing grunt.

Interesting how it drops the two small aperture volumes. Are they just the margin of error? I assume if the velocity went up then they would perform better than stock too.

Aha! That's a win! Clean it up an see if it can be repaired. Is the problem in the wires on in the switch inside?? Does it come apart?

Welcome in- I did mine last year and found stacks on here and Toymods about how to do it. Buying it.. I don't know of anywhere in particular, they come up for sale on AE86DC and Toymods every now and then, and importers have them in stock. Do you have the engine crossmember to suit one?? Out of an AE71. That and a hydraulic clutch. Hopefully the gearbox comes with a crossmember. What do you reckon the budget is? -------------------------- Two here, FWD and RWD versions. He got stuck at the hard part, the wiring and plumbing, so he's given up. https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/hackham/engine-engine-parts-transmission/1981-toyota-corolla-ke38-wagon-4age-4k/1152690831 Buy the KE38, finish the conversion in your KE70 and put your motor in the little wagon & sell it...

Jeez Banjo, how can you see anything in there! Omar, having 12V at the points arm is a definate step forward. Now we know the signal gets to the coil. The coil might be dud, or the condensor inside the dizzy might be. The condensor charges up when the points are open and discharges when closed, and a leaky condensor gives a lousy spark. If you can bridge the wires that are on the neutral switch it eliminates that from the equation. The car will start in any gear while you test it.

Are you going to do the valves as well?? Just put the stem in a drill press or a drill in a vice and use kero or WD40 and wet'n dry sandpaper. Start off with 180 and end up with 400grit, so they are polished clean. The air has to flow over that surface, critical at low valve openings. Same with the valve seats, they should blend seamlessly into the throats, and an hour with a flapper wheel will sort it out. Maybe one day Dan will do a 4K head in oldeskewltoy and we can see what really can be done! ----------------- Yeah, 50thou would be the 1mm reading. You can see how much duration is not really used, about 50deg. The last 44deg on the inlet is the important part, just when it closes as the piston is heading up on compression. If you rotate the cam to move that it gives the greatest effect- early gives more power low down, late moves the power up the rev range as it allows reversion at slower speeds. With a cam that big an adjustable wheel would be handy, I'm only using a 275deg and never worried about it.

Nah, just take it easy with the spring compressors. I find air-driven rattle guns a bit to quick & violent for something with over a ton of force compressed within it. Rear is quick 'n easy, car chassis on stands, jack under diff, wheels off, undo the shocks & lower the diff. The springs will lever out as the rubber brake line reaches its limit, so don't stretch the line. Check for the rubber seats that the spring rides in, top & bottom, and obviously the bottom of the spring has an orientation. Front is more of a job, car up, wheels off, calipers off and wired up so they don't hang on the lines, LCAs undone, two turret bolts off and the third one very loose. A crowbar to lever the LCA down and the strut pops outwards, held up by that last strut nut. Then fit the spring compressors and do them up until the spring is just coming loose. Rattle-gun the shock nut off the top and the spring lifts off. You have to take the spring compressors off that old spring and compress the new spring. Put the strut in a vice to hold it while you use a plumbers wrench to undo the giant nut holding the shock in, and if they're original the tube is full of oil. Clean the strut tube and put in the new shock, put the big nut back on and make sure the shock is held tight, then the spring and the steering stuff at the top. The shock nut goes on and the spring compressors come off. You should be able to stand on the LCA to fight the strut back onto the car, but its all a one-man job. Don't put any gripping tool on the shock shaft, you don't want any marks on there.

It looks like those two wires supply the illumination bulb under the cover. So if you don't have a switch there, what stops a KE30 being started in "drive"?? There must be a cutout on the gearbox under the floor. Here is the KE70 setup. The switch outlined in blue is the auto gear-lever lockout, the dotted line by-passing it is the manual circuit. The auto has a relay to carry the current, so starter solenoid power (green dots) goes from one of the battery fusible links through the starter relay and off to the solenoid. The relay control (blue dots) is via the ignition 'ST' position on the key and the neutral switch. That is a black & white wire leaving the ignition key setup. I don't know if a KE30 has a ballast resistor, it might have been too early. The KE70s run a 9V coil & a resistor. On the diagram you can see the ignition power at the key from ST for starting and also IG for running. The blue dots for starting by-pass the ballast resistor to feed power directly into the coil, whereas when you let the ignition key back to the 'run' position the power goes through the ballast to reduce it to 9V to suit the coil. They are a red wire for starting and a black-orange for run. You might only have one. You could pull the wire junction apart at the ignition key barrel and feed 12V into the white wire going in. Then check what coloured wire does what as it comes back out. If you have a black/white, see if it goes live when you turn to 'start'. If there is a red, see if it goes live for 'ignition'. That would eliminate problems in the key barrel. Either way, if the points are open and the key is on, you should get a voltage at the points arm. If you do, then you just jump 12V into the starter solenoid wire to crank it and see if it runs. Then chase the wiring problem. The solenoid cutout problem means lying under the car and finding that switch. If you want this wiring diagram it is here- https://www.dropbox.com/s/s0xs2udvrv9qfl2/downloadfile.jpg?dl=0 It might not be a KE30 one, but its better then nothing.

Theory is that you get this done anyway, so the new cam has new surfaces to run on. Cam grinding company should do it, $70 over here. I think there is a 'grade' of polish that they prefer these days, fine but not dead smooth. Chat to Oldskewltoy about that too...

Yeah, the electronic dizzys are meant to have the modern dry coils, although I've run my 5K dizzy on the stock 4K coil for years so far.

OK, Firefox 43.1... the start of the rot! I'll see how we go when I reply to some tech question..

Boss, I love 5year out of date software! You have so much more control over what it does! I suppose it means I have to give up my beloved XP, buy a new computer less than 10years old and update my ancient Firefox! Once I put a link in a reply it can't handle it & it stops the script working so it won't submit. "sigh".. let me start with Firefox... Firefox 12 has been such a great build...

I'm not right up on all the diffs you find in Aussie, but the two main types you find are the local BorgWarner (diff gears go in the back) and the Japanese banjo style. (diff head goes in the front). if you want a better diff for driving on, I'd say find a T-series banjo diff from a Celica or AE86 or TE72. Change the whole rear drivetrain, diff, axles, housing, brakes. The T should bolt straight in, the F can fit but I think they were all leaf spring mounted. Someone on here will know exactly. if you're going to weld it again grab a Borgie from any KE70 as they are almost free and common. 4.1 are in the manuals, 4.3 in the autos.

The usual max lift is 0.4" before you need aftermarket vavle springs, although guys on here say you can easily go higher. The 50thou comment is because some cams open and close more slowly than others, so the duration at a 50thou tappet gap gives a better idea of the working duration than the 'advertised' duration. If you don't have options for a cam supplier it just doesn't matter, but you can see it in the 5 companies cutting cams for K motors over here. You can see the diffrence here- look at the Tighe 154 two durations, and then the 609. The advertised durations are close, but the Camtech cam has a lot more at 50thou, which means more performance.

i've found the rally car but I can't find a driver! The place is full of cripples!

I'm sorry but this new forum is driving me f u c king mad!! I've written out a long reply twice but it locks up on putting in a link and I can't be f u c k ed wasting my life explaining it all again! irokin this new format is not working! Just see if you have 12V on the points arm with the battery +ve hooked up to the coil +ve and the points open.

Steve was working mornings driving a concrete truck, so we had afternoons and weekends. Each day he'd catch up with me at the Woolshed and we'd head down to the caravan. It only took a couple of days to strip the inside out and then we decided the door was too small for a big guy, so we took that out. We found a full-szed door on an old shearer's cottage, and re-skinned one side of that. With a bigger door we could fit in a full-sized kitchen unit, also courtesy of the cottage, so we cut the back at an angle to follow the front of the 'van. Then we re-did the door frame trying to make it much more rigid and strong enough to hold a fill-size "timber" door. ..and that's where I left it.. On the way to becoming a batchelor pad instead of a holiday home! In a month we'll be back into it all! (Look at that! I take one lousy photo with him in and then he takes dozens of me! He shoulda been busy!)

Ah, so much happening!! Mao is sitting in the Woolshed with no shocks, the Bilsteins are in Sydney being rebuilt. That's fine as Steve's wrist is slow to heal and he can't handle the heavy steering in there anyway. Instead we started on a stores shed to take some of the junk currently in the tank shed. Between that and the mezzanine we should be able to clear the tank shed and get a 100sqM slab poured. The shed was full of shit and some nice but old and rusty 50x50 angle & 1" steel box. We cleared all that out and found the 4 middle post had rotted at ground level. Those we ripped out, cut off the bottoms and stood them back on timber slabs. We found an old wood fire, which will be used, and a gas fire that won't. Then we bolted 4x4 rails along the top and 6x2 braces across the middle. That allowed us to put a 4x2 down the center so each sheet of iron only had to span 1.4M or so. The wind just tore the old frame's nails out of the top of the posts, so we're hoping to avoid that again. We used Tek screws on some old iron roofing, then fitted a window, fixed the hole at the back where a tree was growing through it, tightened up the walls and started on shelves. The steel will make shelf framing, a lot of ex-shop benchtop will be the shelves, and we washed out a stack of chemical containers then split them as shelf containers. We'll pile a couple of tons of things like gate hinges, bolts, screws, tynes and farming stuff. Any room left will be for KE70 parts!

Well, 6months later, its all the same. Now its winter I can see the temp runs just below the "T", where a 4K runs, and the thermostat won't let it go below that. The usual temp of running under the "E" is showing the stock rad can't quite keep it down in summer. I was going to historic rego one of them, but we're driving both as dailys until the wife finds a T31 X-Trail. So it was back up to the Woolshed in the blue Beast a fortnight back. First up was tree trimming so it didn't get the roof scratched heading for my parking spot on the verandah! Well, one tree got trimmed down to ground level & maybe the other will grow properly now. Then it was onto caravan work! Steve bought a 'van as he is determined to move out of living with his Dad, he'd rather be up at the Woolshed. That idea lasted 5minutes until he started demolishing it inside because it was too small.. I'll stick that story in the rally car thread! ..and we had a Woolshed rallying bacon & egg pie to get started! After a week and a half up there I headed back to Orange, running a neat 6.8L/100km at 110kph. Just like the KE70 they should have released in 1980 !!

Ah, but better than the #1 inlet port!

PM Oldeskewltoy! Certainly enlarge them to match them to the one-piece gasket. You'll probably gain as much by re-shaping the back of the valve & polishing it, and shaping the valve seat area. Its all in that curvy flow when the valve is part-open, as it spends much more time partly open than fully open. The cam is whatever suits your purpose, remember that it might be a dog to drive in traffic if everything is too wild. I'd save a few bucks by sticking with a cam that uses stock springs, and the adjustable cam gear shouldn't be needed until you take it off the road as a full-time racer. The compression ratio will be apparent when its all finished. The cranking compression will probably be worse, but will climb to higher figures with revs, so you'll have to see how you go with fuel octane and ignition timing.. The block work sounds fine. You could grind the block walls smooth and paint them if you were keen, anything to get oil back down. If the oil pump is in good condition you shouldn't need the washer. Put plenty of work into the ignition timing curve. Find an electronic dizzy if you haven't got one. Chat to Tommy about his KE10 motor, your ideas are similar and his is a rocket-ship.

Grrr! This new Rollaclub is pissing me off! I can't post links in my old Firefox! OK, you're right, if the timing hasn't been touched you can replace old points with new ones and it all runs like new. The timing goes back to 10deg. Now, if you buy an electronic dizzy you will have to change the springs on the advance weights under the plate that holds the modules on. They are designed for a forkhoist, so they have a really slow advance curve with a low total advance, and the car runs but has no acceleration. All about it is here-