altezzaclub

Ok, the 4K started at 28 and that one-piece gasket was about 4mm larger in diameter. So I took the ports out to 32mm at the entrance and let them taper back to normal along their length. Its a black art. I have access to a cracked head, but I don't have a way to slice it!

We get two-piece gaskets as stock over here, and replace them with a one-piece. That has larger holes as I recall.

Well, another trip up there.. This time the caravan was in place so we organised some poly pipe for drainage.. Except the ground is like rock and it will need digging in after some rain! We swiped a pump off a well that hadn't been used for years and hooked that up to a tank, so the van has pressurised water and someday a drainage system! A complicated brotherly swap saw us get the red AE71 back. Steve's little bro dailyed on the 4AC and he cut the rust out of the boot area, but then found other stuff to do. Into the shed with the other dozen KE70s! We needed to paint the van door before it rotted out, so we hung a temporary curtain over the doorway. Now, that morning we'd driven about the paddocks in Mao to see how many calfs had been born, and when we saw one lying flat on the ground we drove over. The one beside it got up and moved away, but this little white one stayed dead still until Steve got out and nudged it. Then, POW! it was off and running! We let it go while we checked the rest, & assumed it got back to Mum. That night stacks of moths slipped in around the tarp until Steve couldn't stand it and went to bed, listening to the wind bang the alloy bar on the awning against the van. Late at night there's an enormous "MOOO.. " at the door, so he staggers up to get a torch and there's the white calf.. Of course it took one look, realised "Arrgh, there's the human who wants to eat me", and POW, it was off again! Like a good farmer he found his shoes and some rope, and went off across the paddocks to one-handedly lasso the calf then drag it back to the right paddock half a Km away! Life's never dull at Woolshed rallying!

Another trip up and back without a hitch. We ran up at 7.2l/100km, and back at 6.7! The difference being the shape of the hills, my wife reckons, but also going up was United's 95octane with 10% ethanol, which lowers the energy content, and coming back was on Caltex 98. Different route too, going up was over the flat inland country through Wellington & Coola, back was the mountains of Bylong Valley. The trip back had 660km on, I ran it around Walcha a bit before I left, and it took under 45L. If I ran the extra 5L out they'll do over 700Km on a tank. Having fun at over 100kph, it can't get any better! This time I put the alloy radiator in the boot, I'll get started on that before the weather gets too hot and see what differences it makes. All the lucky numbers came up too!

"I wonder how many are hanging around in barnes forgotten and unloved in Australia" I was in Cairns fixing up my rental house, drove up in the KE70. I ran into an old farmer at the supermarket with one, he'd had it since brand new & no-one drove it these days since he & his wife had 4WDs. He'd only bought it into town as his landcruiser was in being serviced. I'd only just bought the KE70 and didn't think it was worth chasing...

The exhaust won't help, I reckon free-flow pipes make it difficult for a motor to idle smoothly. Mind you, that usually goes with the cam grind people use with big exhausts. Carb sounds like its rich at idle, but 2minutes on a mixture meter will tell you. Ask your local tune-up garage how much to check mixture & timing. Check out the work I did on The Girls KE70 electronic dizzy to get it to work, it was very flat and slow before I did it. You can muck around and do it for free, or pay those guys in Melb $120 odd to do it properly.

Nice! You're getting quite a collection! What was it worth in $US??

Haha.. yep, if you have a mate who knows about it all, then things are much better! Buying things like torque wrenches, verniers, compression gauges is OK as they will last you a lifetime, or at least until petrol cars have been banned!

Ok, that sounds like the timing is sorted out... Time for a compression test! Any idea of cyl pressures? I'm thinking of this- That says that cyl 3 is doing all the work. If they all have spark at the right time, is it the only cyl with good compression??

No, once you're sure its #1 cyl coming up to firing on TDC, just put the crank on 8deg BTDC and work with that. I think you can see the inlet valve through the oil filler hole, the exhaust rocker is too far forward. So as the crank timing mark comes through the last 90deg before TDC the inlet rocker should be stationary. If the inlet rocker is coming up (closing the valve) then its #4 that is firing at that TDC & you have to turn the motor over one more turn. With the crank pulley on 8deg BTDC, you now want to fire the spark plug. If its like my 5K dizzy, there are 4 little extensions on the dizzy shaft that replace the 4 corners on the old system. One of these extensions will wipe past the electronic pickup to fire the coil. The easiest, now I think of it, is to turn the dizzy so that extension aims straight at the metal bar in the electronic pickup. If the vac advance unit hits the head then you'll have to take the dizzy out and move it a tooth. While that's not quite as accurate as having it fire the spark plug, the amount it is out is not worth worrying about. After that you just tighten the dizzy and make sure the rotor points to #1 plug lead. Clockwise they will be #3, #4, and #2 from there.

Sure, take a look through The Girls KE70 here. I wanted a reliable quickish car for my daughter to learn on, without spending money. There's still more you can do to the K engine, guys on here are discovering more all the time.

Yeah, that's a lot of bucks really, there is still a lot to do with a FWD to make it work. Is the gearbox a T50? Have you worked out a list & a budget yet? The crossmember, pedal box, hydraulic clutch, driveshaft, radiator & electric fan, COR relay box, ..oh, and a motor and gearbox! Steve just paid $1000 for a rusty AE71 today, and we discussed how he saw $1000 in it.. seems the pedal box is $250-$300 alone, the crossmember $150-$200, the T50 $350-$450, then the tacho dash and the flat-front panels it has been converted to made it well over that price. I did mine last year, the wiring had me working hard, but it would be much easier now I've done one. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/

1342 is the only one that will work, the hiccup is timing not right. Really, you need a timing light, the only way to sort it quickly and easily. If not, then take out the oil cap and watch a valve on #1 cyl as you turn the crank with a spanner. That will let you work out if it is #1 or #4 that is coming up to TDC. I expect your timing is close enough for you to see that anyway. Put the crank on 8deg BTDC and take out #1 spark plug, leave it on its lead and lie it on the head so it earths out. Turn the dizzy clockwise a little then back, and as you go over the firing point the spark plug should fire. Get it so it has just fired as you turn anticlockwise and lock it there.

Which way does the rotor turn?? How do you determine which is cyl 1 TDC? I don't think your firing order was wrong to start with, it just wouldn't run if it was wrong. If cyl 3 kills it, that's the one that is running best. I've seen people with the wrong firing order, people thinking the dizzy rotates the other way, people setting timing on the wrong side of the dizzy lobe, people picking cyl 4 as cyl 1 and probably a few more ways to make a mistake,

Prise it up gently with a screwdriver or any odd tool you want to make for it. The steel clips grip the door seam with a couple of one-way teeth.

Well, the boss at Great Western Wreckers, an absolute gem if ever I came across one, loaned me both brake setups. Then the light-bulb went off in my head! The Girl attends trade shows sporadically, selling Tiertime UP Mini 3D printers for 3D Printing Systems Lts, one of which is beside her desk.. So it took me a morning to learn how to use an online CAD program enough to draw the two spacers needed and off we went this afternoon- The machine started with this- It produced this... Which fitted perfectly to centralise the disc to the hub. They need the mounting holes re-drilled. So copy the plastic ring to steel, weld it in place and re-drill. The backing plate spacer is drawn up, but I have to wait until after DOTA-time to get it printed!

That is ALWAYS the problem! If its not an 8second soundbite or a 30second speech they have no interest in it. So it suits politicians and advertisers, but no-one gets to learn anything. I'm sure the whole electric car debacle is politically driven, but I can't see why. Tesla wouldn't exist without Govt subsidies, and I'm sure the major manufacturers are selling electric cars at a loss. The whole electricity industry is doing illogical things that we have no rational explanations for. Don't these clowns know that solar stops when the sun goes down? Someone was moaning this morning that we need to upgrade infrastructure to bring excess power from North Queensland to NSW and VIC. Apart from transmission losses I reckon they thought QLD had more sunshine because of daylight saving!

I will believe there is a serious need to stop using ICE when the American Army and Air force move to electric! Until then its just the peasants getting kicked into place so those in charge can keep their toys...

The swept area is noticeably bigger, the KE70 is quite inefficient with how much pad area they use, so I expect they will stop much better. Trawled the DBA, nothing much of a better fit, the change from rear-mounting the disc on the hub to front-mounting stops a lot of good diameters. There is a Suzuki Swift down there that was my original choice, I might pop that apart and check it. Mind you, hot day today, shorts & T-shirt, snow forecast tomorrow..

Power generators are dead ducks as soon as we get decent batteries. Suddenly solar power will make sense when you can use it through the night, and then we can all get off the grid. I'm amazed in Orange, only 40,000 people, stacks of land, new houses for $400k, yet they're building gigantic 4 or 5 bedroom, multibathroom monstrosities on tiny sections with no garden or grass to speak of. Its a good thing new cars don't need work on them, there's nowhere to do it. The one thing that puzzles me is why aren't smart phone covered in solar cells on the back. You put it on your desk or whatever and it charges all the time. Even my dad's gold watch was action wound, so as you moved it wound itself up. Put that in a phone instead..

All over.. Faceplant killed the forum, and Photobucket kicked it in the head while it lay dying.. Possibly intelligent people will get over their fascination with F'book and the instant idiocy then drift back to forums. Possibly Photobucket will change their mind and put all our photos back up, but until then I think all forums are dying. Certainly all the car ones I look at are, and they're all Sth hemisphere.

Ok, back to the wrecker today- I took the backing plates off and fitted the Move plate & caliper to the KE70. Fits fine, but the center hole needs spacing down to the KE70 hub diameter. Fitting the disc showed everything cleared, although without the spacer ring its not held in exactly the right place. Then I put a Rolla wheel over it. Seems the different thickness & larger diameter gets taken up no problem. OK, so its good enough to think about the machining involved. The 3mm spacer ring for the disc to hub is simple, as is the central ring for the bolts on the backing plate. Moving the four boltholes 2mm in the hub to match the disc... not so simple. The correct way to do it would be to fill the holes in the hub with weld and re-drill them, or fill the holes in the disc and re-drill then re-thread them partway into the spacer disc. Really, its a simple conversion compared to many!

A nice article. The whole renewable electricty industry only exists because of Govt subsidy and politics. That means the best and most efficient decisions will never be made, we will end up with politically expedient ones. So yes, we will get forced into electric cars, yes there will be disasters with power supplies, but its all for your own good as you get forced to live in apartments and use public transport.. That has been on the UN's agenda for a decade! I see no shortage of oil yet, and no reason to stop using the ICE, but... politics and control... As for self-drive cars, the cars we use have killed millions, right from when they first appeared, so a few accidents while we iron out self-drivers are quite acceptable. They don't have to be perfect, they only have to be as good as current drivers. That's not hard...!

Can't be worse that factory.. They were also on the earlier Great Wall with a Y motor, so the agents should have them too.

Do you still have a distributor in the car? or is that the one you have taken out? Do you want to fit that one?? The big trick is to get the teeth on the bottom gear meshing with the camshaft at the right place, and also getting that slot at the very bottom into the oil pump drive.. As you can see, the camshaft drives the distributor and the oil pump from that one gear. If you have the points inside the dizzy just as they were on a running car, turn the engine to number one cyl top dead center and turn the rotor to line up with number one cyl spark plug. Usually the vac advance diaphram more-or-less faces the front of the car. Slide the dizzy in and give the rotor a wiggle. It should drop right to the bottom of the locking plate, so the O-ring is down in the block. If it doesn't, don't force it, but take it out and carefully turn the shaft about one tooth, then try again. If it doesn't go right in, move it a couple of teeth in the other direction. You can see the oil pump drive down the hole, but the slope on the gears means the shaft turns as you put it in, so you have to start with the slot off to one side. When that it in, turn the dizzy so the points are just opening with the rotor on number one plug lead. Then its easy, once you have number one sorted the rotor fires number 3 next, the 4 then 2, moving clockwise. The middle lead goes to the coil. You might have to swap leads around, so although their firing order stays the same, the starting point for number one cyl might be in a different hole in the cap. It depends on who set the dizzy up last. Mine looks like this-