altezzaclub

There is an "air gap" between the 4 spikes sitting on the shaft and the metal face of the electronic pickup. That is able to be changed slightly, I think there is a dimension for it. However that will only affect the crispness of the signal the electronic setup gets, not the ignition timing, and once set it never needs adjusting. So you have no points to touch, no condensor to worry about, and no need of the ballast resistor. Your worries are much bigger, because when the electronics fail you throw the dizzy away... as far as I know! You can buy the distributors complete from the USA, but I've never seen the two electronic packs for sale separately. Someone must be still making them. "They" say you have to use special (newer) low-impedance coils with them or you will burn the transistors out. Check that you have power going in and power coming out, and apart from that there is nothing to do to them.

Woo! That's a big step up. What does it feel like? Lift a rear wheel?

Can you make the fuel mixture thingy permantly closed?? I don't know if your gas torch will be big enough, but the manifolds can be brazed. That would be the best solution. I suppose you get the motor as hot as possible then turn it off and quickly braze it.

You might have killed it, its a 9V coil running on 12V without the resistor, but they're pretty tough and you haven't had it running for many minutes. Run through Google on how to set points, you don't need a mechanic. The rookie mistakes are- -not realising which way the dizzy shaft turns. -not setting the gap when the point's rubbing block is on the top of the dizzy shaft cam. -not assembling the points neatly so current still flows when the points are open as it leaks out some short-cicuit in the assembly. You can set the timing a rebuilder says above, that's why you need to know which way the dizzy turns. The points fire as they open when the dizzy shaft cam pushes on the rubbing block, and that is when you see the spark. So, make sure you have a new condensor, points gap correct on dizzy cam tip, timing set to 10deg, 12V at the points when they are open and you should be right.

Ah, OK! Do it neatly, as you'll have to modify cables and mounts and everything. A lot of guys never get things running nicely or don't get full throttle as they are too rough in their engineering. It will be a baseline for a great motor, do the cam and exhaust later on..

Is the manifold for the CBR carbs or have you fitted them already and want to change? How does the motor run now? The carbs by themselves won't make much difference, but they will help with a better cam & exhaust system, and some head work.

I reckon its a worn oil pump or bearings, and you've done the bearings The red light works at 7psi in theory, an arbitrary figure that just tells you enough oil is circulationg to lubricate the motor as it idles with no load. When the pump wears and oil leaks back past the impellors the pressure drops, but its only noticeable at idle when the pump is rotating at its slowest and the oil is thin. Ignore it until you get the gauges... turn the idle speed up if you don't want to chase it down with lots of money and time. I don't know if we can get uprated K pumps with longer impellors. I know you can for Celicas, so they raise the minimum oil pressure by pumping a larger flow. The maximum stays the same as it is bled out by the ball valve.

So, was it running OK when you bought it and before you did the carb conversion?? Started easily and ran smoothly?? Have you changed the ignition system? If it is stock, check that you have 12V at the coil while cranking. Remember they have two ignition circuits to power the coil, one that by-passes the ballast resistor for starting and another through the ballasr for running. Sometimes one will work and the other not. The ballasts do break down. Anyway, after that check the points gap. If the points are burned with a volcano on one side and a hollow on the other, set the gap without going over the volcano with the feeler gauges. Just use the tips. . plenty of people have made them too wide by doing that. If you alter them, check the timing again. Your manual method is fine, but make sure you know which way the rotor turns. No good setting the points timing on the following shoulder instead of the advancing shoulder.. You can check the coil while you're in there by having the points open and sticking a screwdriver across them. The points should spark and the coil fire. If the coil doesn't, make sure there is 12V at the points. If there is, then the condensor is toast, as that is where the electricity for the coil is "stored". A leaking condensor will not store enough electricity to collapse the coil field fast enough, and give a weak spark. So, points set, timing set, coil sparking.. it should start with the right fuel/air ratio.

You should replace the condenser when you do the points, because if it fails then things are very hard to diagnose. Did you put a spot of grease on the cam tip for the point's rubbing block? Otherwise they wear shut faster. It wouldn't hurt to check the points gap right on the cam tip, then re-check the timing. The 20deg of advance means either the points are too wide now or they were nearly shut before you changed them. I put a bit of white paint on the right mark of the pulley and timing cover to make timing easy. if you use the coil lead as a trigger it will flash for every cyl, which gives you an idea of how worn the dizzy is if the timing jumps around. At least you've got it running so now its just a tuning trick.

Do the full throttle bit- You want the maximum air jammed in the cylinder & the highest rpm you can get. About 5 turns will do it, but the guy holding the comp gauge will see it tail off. Make sure the rubber bung on the gauge doesn't leak, the screw-in ones are more time-consuming but better.

just to keep your enthusiasm going-

That's a pretty serious project- I think someone who had a hand in building Lloyd's car was on here, you might find the odd topic and be able to contact them to find out what they used. The front bit was a Lexus 1UZ, but the rest might be interesting for you. I'm with Littleredspirit in that you want the lightest gear that will just handle the power. Even replacing the 4K with a 4AGE upsets the light steering and handling a stock KE70 has. Ah- here's some info for you.

Yep- Write out a plan for what you eventually want to do to the whole car, then work out what you need.. T-series diff, LSD, T50 gearbox, driveshaft to suit, 4AGE motor, and stuff, and start looking for parts. It will take a while to assemble everything you need.

Yep- Youngsters these days have no idea of the world before the internet and how hard (and expensive!) it was gathering knowledge. You had to buy weekly or monthly magazines for news about your car enthusiasm, and more importantly to see the ads of things like BOOKS about you car! There was no fast way to solve problems or modify your car unless you formed a real car club like Toymods and went along to meetings. Already massive amounts of knowledge have vanished, photos taken down, links broken, and if it all ends up as Facebook then this golden internet age will be just a flash in the pan. Mind you, with people saying petrol-driven cars will be gone in a couple of decades, maybe it won't be important. Just how many petrol stations will stay in business when you charge your electric car while you're at the supermarket?

To put it back to stock means welding/drilling a barb into the base of the air filter and putting the front hose onto that, not a big job at all. Then screwing a barb into the inlet manifold somewhere (there should be a hole already for it, with some threaded plug in it) that the rear hose goes onto with a PCV valve fitted in it. So at idle the high inlet vac closes the PCV valve off and the little blowby you have goes out the front hose to the air cleaner and gets burnt. Then when you are accelerating & there is lower inlet vac the PCV valve opens and the inlet vacuum sucks the greater blowby into the rear hose and burns it. The idea is that when the motor is not working you don't get much blowby so you don't need to vacuum out the block. When the motor is working hard you get lots of blowby and the inlet vacuum sucks it all out and burns it. At that stage fresh air is admitted in through the front hose via the air filter. As Rob says, get a compression test done and see what it reads. 130psi is just OK, 150 is fine and anything higher is great. You will also work out how much oil it is burning after a while.. half a litre per 1000km or whatever.

K40 and S302 it looks like. Now you know your starting point...

Nope, it shouldn't. The 4K motor fits onto a K40 or K50 box. The A series motors, the 4A-C and 4A-GE fit the T-50, unless someone found a rare K-T bell housing. Check it out and see, the K box has a steel plate at the bottom to access the gears, the T series splits the whole box in half. The K box is slick, light and quick to use, the T box is heavy and solid and clunky. They have different output shafts, so the front of the driveshafts are different. The Borgie and T-series diffs are also different, and a custom driveshaft costs $250-$300. google image the diffs and gearboxes.

Yes- check out the build thread, I made mounts for the cable, had an airbox made, bought a twin cable choke cable, lots of little things... SUs are fun, but old carbs nowadays. I'd use bike quads if I was to do it again in a serious way. Another option would be a single DCOE Weber, a great setup but the manifold is expensive. Twin Webers are not worth it for road use I reckon.

Twin SU carbs- The usual extractors, inch & 3/4 exhaust, skimmed head, the Crow 606 cam. Keeps up with the traffic, but nothing like its stablemate with a 4AGE. build is here-

Then find out what you have and if there are LSDs for it. Australia got stuck with cast-iron Borgies because of local content laws. Japan released KE70s with pressed steel T-series and there are world-wide options for those. I took a T-series out of an RA60 Celica and bolted it straight in with a modified rear flange on the driveshaft. This is the biggest problem with a KE70- you can up the 4K power, drop in a 5K or even a 7K, or a 4AGE, but there is no solution to the Borgy diff.

I ended up with a Crow that gave the fastest opening, the greatest lift at 50thou without having to change valve springs by going over 0.4" total. Cost $170 incl followers. I'd say 270-280 advertised degrees would run with a stock carb, but bigger cams are wasted without twin DCOEs.

17mm rear sway bar. The stiffer the rear end the easier it slides. Difficult to do, the ride in a drift car won't be very comfortable for daily driving, and it will be lethal when it rains. If it has a Borg-Warner diff, get a T-series, or an F and put on the 5-link mounts. There is no way to put a limited slip into a borgie.

Its just very retarded, its burning the fuel in the exhaust.. That's why it won't go. All you need is a timing light and all be fixed..

Take the wires off the fuel sender unit on the tank. Short the guage wire to earth and turn on the key, the gauge should go to 'full'. If it doesn't, the problem is not the unit. If it does go to 'full' the problem is in the tank unit. Take it out of the tank and put your $10 multimeter on the contact for the fuel level arm and move the arm, it should show a changing resistance. If it doesn't then the problem is in the arm resistance winding. They are pretty dodgy, I think they work occasionally but that is enough to keep the heavily damped gauge needle in place. I'd expect it to be a bad contact or a broken wire rather than in the tank.

How many Km has it done?? I'm wondering how worn the dizzy drive on the cam is.. Finding the noise should be easy, you can get a long screwdriver or any metal rod and hold it against your ear while touching various parts of the motor while its running and rattling. You can buy little mechanic's stethoscopes for exactly that job. Check how much play there is on the rotor when you turn it back and forth. Poor idle can come from a lot of slop in the timing. Rotor in good condition? Dizzy cap not damaged? Grab a timing light and put it on the coil HT lead, so it reads all 4cyls and see how much the ignition mark jumps around. That also tells you how good the dizzy drive is. The flat spots will be harder- fuel supply, air leaks, carb problems, and then the whole igniton and dizzy setup again, so find the noise first and see if it is important.