altezzaclub

I haven't got conrod dimensions, but remember that if a short conrod doesn't hit the head at TDC because it is short, it will pull the pistons even further out of the cyl at BDC. In this picture you can see the 20% increase in stroke, both TDC and BDC in red. The piston skirt sticks out the bottom already, as shown in blue, and it will be 20% further out with the 7K crank. I'm not sure if it will stand that. Also, don't forget your piston speed will be much higher, which is why they increase bore rather than stroke.

Ah, My computer & Rollaclub don't talk to each other very well these days. "The connection to the server was reset while th page was loading" So I get double posts trying to reply !

Hell no! I'm running twin 30mm SU carbs quite happily, although I would change to quad 30s if I had the chance! Its been done a lot of times so if you PM some of the guys who have them in their build you will get help. Tommy's KE11 springs to mind...

I don't know, but find it unlikely as the 4K stroke is 73mm, while the 7K is 87. That means it describes a circle 14mm larger in diameter, so take a look inside a 4K and see if there is that distance between the crank and the bottom of the cylinders or the sump. Can it swing past the sides of the block? Of course it also pulls the piston down an extra 14mm, so they drop out the bottom of the block, and it pushes them 14mm further up, into the head. What sort of piston would have a 14mm shorter distance between the gudgeon pin and the top?? There would be no room for the rings. It would be a major re-engineering job, if possible at all.

Which is the bubble Corolla?? I assume the one wheel locks up when you hit the brakes. Did everything look fine when you changed brake pads? We've just had this problem on an old Corona when we put new shoes in the front drums, and the solution was to get the drums ground. Maybe your discs need a skim to clean them up and match the new pads.

..and it has a computer!! No fuel injection, but it has a computer... The aircon models have them for adjusting temp I suppose... it sits on the side of the aircon unit.

A bigger K motor would have to be the easiest, and the 4AGE the most common. A better bet is the 3SGE nowdays. I'm not sure a 4AGE would be any cheaper if you were to pay your local mechanic, but ask a hot-rod builder. They could drop in a wide range of motors for the same price. From driving a Pulsar SR20 SSS as a daily I'd say they make a great candidate if you want to go further out. For getting a post-2005 or newer motor I reckon an MX5 motor and box would be the best. There is a great lack of modern, small RWD options now, so most K & 4AGE motors & boxes you get will be worn out.

Well, the time slips by so fast these days... I've been swapping them over as I go up and down to the farm, the Hoonicorn is at home & the Beast up in the tractor shed at this time. The other day I drove away and noticed... So I started pulling it all apart! Fan unit first, then aircon unit out, then dash apart and finally wriggle the heater unit out. Pull that apart and the core has been fixed already in the past & is rotted in one spot. That tube is quite blown too. Option A was to fix it- radiator man confirmed it could be done but would blow out somewhere else. Option B was grab another from the cars at the farm, 5 of which will never need a heater again. Problem is they're probably all 30years old too. Option C is a new one, they can be bought for $200 odd Option D is a 300W electric one mounted where the aircon unit was. Option D looked good as they're only $30-$40, but then I read some reviews... "best described as a warmer, not a heater" was the general idea. So I'm going back up this weekend to swap cars over and I'll see how good the cores are up on the farm, and if not I'll buy a new one. I don't know what we'll do when they are no longer made! This will improve the ventilation in the car, as the aircon models have the eye-level vents in the dash blocked off and all incoming air has to go through the aircon radiator. Now I can open up the two dash vents and the main airflow will have the big plastic tube beside the fan at the passenger's feet instead of an aircon unit with a lot of airflow drag.

Well, that will tow the caravan up to Jyväskylä nicely... I think I'd be quite happy to drive around with 200RWKW, never mind the extra boost! Well done!

A coil is a coil, the main difference being the resistanc inside. You'll need one with the same impedance, but most injected cars of that age should work if you can get the right plug lead fitting.

haha! You wish! I'm sure they're way ahead of their dads.. Any old Toyotas on the streets?? Stacks of models not found over here?? What's the driving like?? What do young hoons drive?? Facinating culture, my daughter is planning a trip over there.

Sad.... welcome to the brave new world of Police States and Corporations. Its like buying a car and being told you cannot touch the computer under pain of 10years jail for software violation. It could be anywhere the installer put it, like any alarm system, and it could be quite small as a radio transmitter that just chirps wouldn't need much of a ciruit at all. Google images shows them smaller than a matchbox. A car thief would be a good guy to ask, or some auto-sparkie that installs them. You're not the only one either.. He posted a photo here- http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1082455-Has-anybody-removed-a-LoJack

Rings and valve stem seals show different symptoms. Rings smoke under acceleration at a constant rate. Stem seals let oil down the inlet vavle stems at idle (under high vacuum) and that burns as you drive away from the traffic lights. Then it stops until you idle again and it builds up. If you muck around with a compressor hose and fit it to a drilled-out spark plug you can pressurise a cylinder while you take the vlave springs off & change the seal. Another idea is to put a length of rope down the plug hole as you wind the piston up. If you drop a valve into a cylinder its 'head-off' time, so its worthwhile trying to do them with just the rocker shaft out. Only the inlets smoke as the exhausts aren't under vacuum.

Damm man!1 So sweet, absolutely gorgeous! Well done!

OK, so compression is good, it should go like a rocket. I don't know what differences there are in the carbs, but I'm sure they didn't stay exactly the same for 15years. You might find the jets have numbers stamped on them, but as they were never designed to be changed Aisin might not have bothered. In that case it would be good to find different small wires from electrical cables and a pair of verniers to measure the diameters of the jet holes. In the end the numbers don't really matter, you just need to get it performing at its best.

...and city driving is always worse, whereas I do most of my driving on trips. That 8L/100 would be at 100kph out in the country, down to 7.3 or so with a manual box. 12 is pretty thirsty. If you can find stock jets just replace the first throat and see how it goes, that's the one you drive on most of the time I reckon. If you get stuck, PM me as I'm sure there are carbs lying around the Woolshed with jets in, but I'm sure there's some in Perth. You'd see any leaks except the pump leaking into the sump, so I doubt its a leak now. What's the chance of getting a mixture meter up the exhaust and just checking how rich it is?? Some friendly local mech with one that you can take a zip around the block with.. The other question would be compression.. Can you run a compression meter over all 4 cyls and see what they are. I'm just wondering which 5K head it is and if the compression is up at 9.5 to one, which should give 150psi. If you have low compression that would make it inefficient.

haha! yep! But if you persevere and get it out you will know for next time. Otherwise the mechanic will be emptying your wallet many times over! Have you got those nice new ratchet ring spanners? A socket set with a universal joint in it?? It is possible, (every time you take the gearbox out for a clutch you'll have to do it..) but you'll just have to get the tools that suit the way you want to do it.

Lol- You're right I think.. Although we did look at the rally car!! just looked... We just got the mezzanine decks tidied up before I had to head back home, so Steve can continue to clean up in there and start loading stuff back on it. Then to empty the 'tank shed' into this one, wait 'til you see the photos of that place! That middle stump in the front we pulled out completely & chopped a longer one off one of the big beams. When we dug the hole out it was sopping wet, you could dig the soil with your hands. I think this really wet winter is causing a ground-water problem, and a few of these in the last 50years has done the damage we see. Plus farming stuff getting heavier as more steel gets used and the loading on the mezzanine got way way past its design limits.

Just make sure the click is coming from the solenoid that sits on the starter motor. Then it looks like its a starter problem, as the solenoid should be providing 12V to the starter when you hear that click. Maybe it was a starter problem that prompted you to replace the battery? Lean under the exhaust and see if the main wire from the battery to the starter is tight. If it is & the battery terminals are OK then its time to pull the starter out. Its in the worst place possible to get at of course!

We'll just clear the shit off the mezzanine that is out of the picture to the right of all those cars, get rid of the rubbish and move stuff in from the OTHER shed we want as a new workshop. What could go wrong..?? We'll have to cut the first section off and level it... 3rd section... not so hot ! 5days later, we have seen all the problems of a 50+ year-old farm building.. We're about at the very worst point now, so it is all re-buiding from now on! Rally car?? Dream on!

(Next time you're in Glen Innes make yourself known at the New England Motor Lodge in the center of town. Either Steve will be manager if its a weekend, or little bro Richard will have his KE30 parked there if its a weekday. Demand a Rollaclub discount in the restaurant!)

arrgh! All day pushing cars across paddocks, washing the bird poop off them and then pushing them into the tractor shed! Not something I need to do every week! So we have the 2-door Escort to sell as well as the Celica, which should make some room and buy us an extra set of tyres! That damm Cedric wagon can go too, even though Steve thinks it is wonderful.. its the size of a battleship and although a whole KE70 would fit inside I can't see us needing it as a service wagon! Another couple of KE70s could be cleaned up and sold, he's got 22cars in sheds now! We might get Murray Cootes suspension then!

nice! Most the ones I see these days are already 4AGE converted. Unusual to be a flat-front too.

Does it smoke?? I used to use 20W-50, but these days all my cars share 15W-40 as a compromise. 10W-30 is a bit thin for here, but Norway is below zero degrees a lot so you should be right. I don't think the K motors care!

The T-series fits with the unicorn bellhousing, the K-to-T one. They exist, but very rare. Other than that we will be going back to fitting autos as the K manuals all die from worn bearings and no replacements. Unless someone finds bearings that fit somewhere in China, or bearings that are close enough so we can machine a shaft down to fit, as the cageless rollers in there are just no longer made.