aidanmyles

Hey Parrot, where did you get the part number from?

Thanks guys you're both legends, I'll look into both options and talk to my mechanics.

Done that, my engineering performance shop that just finished reconditioning the engine and weren't able to help me. My first option is to find a set of bolts (preferred), second is contact ARP if these bolts are the same as any other main bearing bolts, third and lastly get the bolt made.

Any ideas on where I can buy new main bearing bolts for a 3K block/crankshaft? Struggling to find anything online. Cheers!

Hey guys, I need some advice on things that might cause the engine to stall when applying throttle or choke. Context: had year old fuel in the car from about a year of sitting around while body work and paint was being done. Car wouldn't run without stalling after about 12months, so we drained fuel tanks and refurbished carby. Now the thing starts and idles beautifully but any choke or throttle causes it to stall. The fuel pump seems to definitely be working because I disconnected inlet into the carburetor while the engine was running and it was flowing a tonne of fuel. The engine sounds like it might be misfiring a bit, but I don't know how to diagnose that. The vacuum gauge says I'm getting 16-20in at idle. Vacuum coming an outlet at the back under the throttle.

Ohhh sorry, that's more clear and your first message means the same thing. Sorry for the confusion, I'm learning about this as I go. Thanks a lot for your patience and help Taz!

Hey Taz, just checked them out, they're symmetrical in design, swapping them from left to right doesn't change how far they protrude. It also means the bleed nipple gets flipped to the bottom of the piston housing. Does the ke30 or ke55 steering arm fit the ke20?

Here's exactly what it looks like. The wiki makes it out to be a straight swap, I can't understand why mine's different. They're apparently ke30 rotors and calipers, maybe the struts are different now from the suspension upgrade.

The control arm is hitting the back of the caliper; the caliper assembly/cylinder body. I think that describes it? Does that sound correct?

I guess that write up never got done?

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Hey guys, I need your expertise! The KE20 is at the mechanic's getting roadworthy (or trying too) and it's not passing because of a front brake issue. The previous owner did a KE30 brake upgrade to the front, to change the stud pattern I guess. Also had adjustable coils put into the front. Issue now is that the steering arm is pressing up against the back for the disc brakes, not allowing enough movement in the brakes to get them to compress firmly - I.E. BRAKES ARE SHIT, and always was a concern for me since buying and getting ready for roadworthy. Mechanics suggested solution is to replace the complete strut back to original KE20 OR find smaller brakes. I don't really want to go back to the old stud pattern and dislike the idea of wasting $3k suspension, especially if I intend on doing a 4age change in the future. Any suggestions? I wish I took a photo to help explain the issue better.

Thanks for all the advice guys - problem solved. 100% overlooked (as usual)!! The positive for my starter was a black wire and I had connected it to my negative post instead of positive. Thank god I didnt go past disconnecting my carb, I would've been so F'een pissed. I did order new gaskets for once I got the manifold off, but meh. They'll come in handy one day.

Hey guys, I need some advice - I really want to get my hands on a centre console to fit my KE20. I'm in North Queensland, any ideas on what models I should be looking for (ke20/25/te27), and any recommendations of where to search online? I also have no idea what cost I should be looking for. Cheers chaps.

Jesus, I can't believe how hard it is to get to this ******* starter! Taking it to the mechanic.