Ke20 Brakes

[ke20red]

hey guys

 

A Long way down the track i will eventually i will improve my engine

power to a major increase however my ke20 just with the 4k 1.3 it doesnt brake that well

i mean pulling up has a delay which isnt that safe i don't think anyways

so was wondering wats the best way about stopping alot better. i

was browsing through the net and the website and came across

superjamie dude that says that ke70

brake with vn commodore callipers would stop the car very well..

otherwise whats the best way about stopping the car on a budget

with not alot of mechanical knowledge.. costs would be helpful too

guys on a budget..

 

Cheers

Edited September 6, 2008 by ke20red

[Raven]

Try changing your brake pads to something like Bendix GCT's :D

[Redwarf]

You have an early 20: drums or discs on the front? I ran the 30/55 upgrade for years, and they were quite adequate. They don't have a booster, so effort will be more than a boosted system, however I always liked this for the feel.

 

I can talk to you next week about the 30/55 brakes (no need to change stud pattern). At a pinch you can do it here, as there's a small bit of engineering you have to do.

[ke20red]

cheers rob yeah its a 1970 sounds like a plan nothing like free advice

[PHATKE20S]

I'd have to agree with Rob about the KE55 brakes

They do the job quite well

[Jono]

the engineer i used even passed them (with a booster) for my 4AGE conversion, and was quite impressed with how well the stopped the car. Now the turbo is on, they don't stop the car that well from 160+kmh.

Edited September 7, 2008 by Jono

[Doogs]

Redwarf, if he changes his brakes to KE30/55 items, does that mean the stud pattern

will then be 4 x 114.3 ?

 

Cheers

[Redwarf]

Ahhhh Grasshopper, this been covered many time......

 

You bolt the 30/55 rotor to you 25 hub (thus keeping 4 x 110). You use the 30/55 backing plate (which the caliper mounts to), but you have to redrill and tap the holes in the strut that the backing plate mounts to from m8 to m10x1.25 (intermediate thread). Bolt 30/55 caliper to backing plate.

 

If we do ke20red's and I'm involved I'll take piccies and do a how-to at some point.

 

Not hard to do.

Edited September 7, 2008 by Redwarf

[ke20red]

yeah guys sounds like a plan to me be great to learn it aswell

 

Cheers Matt

[Doogs]

Ahhhh Grasshopper, this been covered many time......

 

You bolt the 30/55 rotor to you 25 hub (thus keeping 4 x 110). You use the 30/55 backing plate (which the caliper mounts to), but you have to redrill and tap the holes in the strut that the backing plate mounts to from m8 to m10x1.25 (intermediate thread). Bolt 30/55 caliper to backing plate.

 

If we do ke20red's and I'm involved I'll take piccies and do a how-to at some point.

 

Not hard to do.

 

Thanks for clearing that up for me.

 

I will be keen to see how you go about it, as it might be something I do in future.

[coln72]

"to redrill and tap the holes in the strut that the backing plate mounts to from m8 to m10x1.25 (intermediate thread). Bolt 30/55 caliper to backing plate."

 

Or you could be dodgey and just use the 8mm bolts...........a certain white KE20 in the distant past had this done.

[Redwarf]

"to redrill and tap the holes in the strut that the backing plate mounts to from m8 to m10x1.25 (intermediate thread). Bolt 30/55 caliper to backing plate."

 

Or you could be dodgey and just use the 8mm bolts...........a certain white KE20 in the distant past had this done.

 

 

Or you could be undodgy and come to the house of Dwarf and get it done properly. :D

 

That wasn't Batch's was it??

[coln72]

No Kylie's (the missus at the time)

[ke20jacob]

Hi I am new to this site, and am doing a ke20 project at the moment, when you do the 30/55 conversion do you change the rear brakes and the master cylinder as well?

Also if I want to use a booster what booster do people use on the ke20 and ke25's.

 

Thanks Jacob

Edited September 13, 2008 by ke20jacob

[Redwarf]

No, on just about all accounts.

 

You just change the rotor, not the hub when you do the change over. No requirement for changing the rears or the master. I generally change the master anyway to a dual system and do away with the standard, just for safety sake.

 

Have never put a booster in, have never seen the point. The cars weigh stuff all, and pull up fine without. Have raced a 25 for years without one.

 

I'm doing the conversion on Redke20's on Tuesday, and will be doing a "how to" after, so stay tuned. :)

 

R