altezzaclub

Don't forget rim offset and tyres also play a part here, so if you have non-stock wheels and wider tyres it will be heavier. Wheel alignment too- if someone has wound up the castor the steering will be heavy, extra camber not so much. Put a jack under the outside of each lower control arm and lift the tyres just off the ground and see what the steering feels like. That will tell you about the friction in the rack, which should be zero unless it has been badly adjusted.

Nope, 'cos then it won't accelerate! Lol.. Just the idle screw should be 1.5 to 2 turns out to start with. Actually, you set the idle speed according to ignition timing and mixture, as both affect idle. So sort the points and the timing and get it idling with the idle speed screw, then screw the mixture screw out and in until you get the maximum idle speed. You might have to play with the idle speed and mixture together to get a smooth idle that pulls cleanly. The idle jet affects the acceleration up to a couple of thousand rpm, its doesn't just do zero throttle work. The choke adjusting screw gives idle speed with the choke out, so you set that when its cold one morning. When the choke is pushed back in it does nothing.

I used some bathroom silicon from Bunnings that I had around the house, just taped it on for a few days. In reality the chrome strip should grip the gutter itself, but once they have been off they really don't want to go back on properly. Far too delicate to remove after 30years, and irreplaceable now.

Yeah, go back and check it all... I assume you have the leads correct or it wouldn't want to run at all. It wouldn't hurt to check which way the dizzy turns and which is number one cyl firing... What is the points gap? What is the ignition timing? The increase in idle is from opening up the points gap, which advances the timing, so check both again. If it is massively advanced you might get the spark before the inlet valve closes and allows the flame up the carb, but that's pretty crazy. If that is all you have altered then it is probably in there somewhere. If you're unlucky and its nothing to do with points gap or timing, then start hunting down the fuel mixture, but I'd make sure ignition is perfect first.

...because ultimately the T-series banjo style with a proper LSD will be what you want. Research the T-series diffs, I used one out of an RA60 Celcia. You need the banjo style to fit a limited slip setup, there aren't any for the stock Borgies.

You can just change the diff itself, but I'd swap the whole rear end if I were you. The whole diff and bearings are liable to be full of metal fragments from welding the diff, from using a welded diff, and from the sort of driving a person who welds a diff does. They aren't hard to find as a stock item, there are several at our local wreckers, and if you want to upgrade from the stock Borg-Warner, get a T-series banjo rear end from a Celica, TE72, AE86 or similar.

I can't think of an 8-valve motor that makes more power than a 16-valve the same size. Take a modern belt-driven twin-cam with small lightweight valves over an old-fashioned side-cam motor with large heavy valves that still can't flow as much. If you want it for the cool retro factor, go for it, but its another version of the tractor motor 18RG we used in the rally car... torquey but you could recognise it coming for a Km because it just never revved. If its just for everyday driving, go for it, you don't need the extra performance of a -GE 16valve every day and it stacks more reps than the usual 4AGE.

Just to catch up- It turns over fine without spark plugs in now, but doesn't start?? So the starter is working fine anyway. What happens with everything connected and cranking??

Shot peening is blasting the components with shotgun pellets, well, these days I'm sure they make special pellets for it. It smashes the surface down to increase the density and make it tougher. Another method is cryo-treating and a third is nitriding. Knife edged cranks have the counter-weight webs machined away on each side so its not a blunt surface hitting the oil in the sump. It lightens the crank, like lightening the flywheel. Google image it. Nice toys for race cars.

You'll have to rely on the head shop, they should have a flow bench & a plan to port to whatever bhp you're looking for. generally the exhasits can be smaller and more shrouded than the inlets, and 1mm on the inlets isn't a lot. Have a read of Ost's work on here, he's got a few head porting topics up-

Yep! So long as you're happy to spend the money and time to restore it as a hobby and entertainment, then you end up with a fine little classic run-around. I've certainly seen worse!

Take the fuel level float out of the tank, a 2minute job, and look inside the hole with a good torch. You might decide to drop the tank out and clean it out, also not a big job & it saves any blockages re-occuring.

When you say "contact point connection" does that mean it goes to the distributor? In that case it might be for a tacho if KE20 ever had them as an option. Are there any gauges or warning lights in the dial with the speedo? Y/G wires in KE70s are for the temperature gauge.

I'd go lighter in the engine oil to 15W-40, I'd expect the Redline would be fine for the gearbox & grab an 80weight for the diff. I run at 33psi in tyres, the standard these days now that fuel efficiency has become a concern over the ride quality of 24psi. See if you can feel the difference of 30 to 33, I don't reckon I can. Just keep a monthly eye on the tread wear pattern, the 185s are pretty wide for a 5" rim.

OK, Mao finished, more or less, John Deere 140amp alty drop straight in, new rad and electric fan with better air flow and a general straighten up of the front end. The Cruiser is filling up the workshop and we're learning how to pull out rear axles..

Such optimism! Of course we're buried in distractions as usual, and the more time goes past the more different cars need work! We did up both Coronas and redied them for sale. Last weekend it was off to the Moonbi Swap Meet for a test run and they both went great! If you want a nice RT throw a couple of grand our way! Then because Steve had aquired another AE71 wagon we needed shed space, so the Cedric was moved to the lower farm. All went well until he crested the steep drop to the driveway and when he changed down there was only a box full of neutrals! He bled off enough speed and coasted into the driveway, and we avoided mentioning it until Pete said we'd better put the truck away before it rained.. Turned out a selector shaft had jumped off, so it was soon fixed. Of course we needed to clear room for it in THAT shed, so we used the tractor to load old machinery up on top of 44gal drums, then dragged them into place with a chain through the 'window'. Then we loaded half the drums into a disused stable. Once we found what the rabbits had done to the dirt underneath we used the tractor to level the ground, and then IT died! That was the fuse to the fuel pump relay, so easily fixed again, although I don't know why it blew. Finally we had the space for the Capella, and spent an hour or two trying to get it on 4 inflated tyres. With that moved across the shed we unloaded the Cedric. Of course its battleship length jammed the tail in the dirt going down the truck ramps and it all turned to shit as usual. In the end we had it all arranged. Today was all day to put a new radiator & alty in Mao the KE70. Not quite done, and after that will be the leaking axle seal on the Landcruiser.. after that is a very smart KE70 to re-motor and sell, and THEN we might have space for the rally car!

A lot of these conversions are not very well done in the details, and noisy fuel pumps are typical. If I was a Facebook user I could listen to your link, but just get under the car with the ignition on and look for it. A screwdriver against your ear and held against the steel body will magnify the sound if you need it. The wagons have such a flat tank that getting fuel out is a pain, so a lift pump will be inside the tank. That pumps to a surge tank to supply fuel when it all runs away in the flat tank, and then finally a pressure pump takes fuel from the surge tank and pumps it to the injectors. If the lift pump is sitting against the tank metal it will be noisy through the car, and if the pressure pump is mounted firmly it will do the same. The rubber ring around the pump doesn't insulate enough, and if the fuel line touches the body by it then its all over. I use a VL Commodore mount on the main pump, it hangs the pump in midair on two rubber bungs. My lift pump sits on its fabric filter just touching the bottom of the tank.

Does it lock up sharply like its hit a wall, or firmly but gradually?? Check the tappet gaps as you start stripping. A bent valve will have a big gap, although its not usually a K problem. Do the spark plugs look brand new, or damaged at all?? Any indications he took it apart before you bought it?? Fresh threads on manifolds or tappet cover bolts? Its very odd as a moving car has enough momentum to destroy the innards of a motor completely after some disaster happens, and having a motor jam like this suggests either it was a problem caused when the motor was stopped or its an artifact. A moving car will smash a spark plug that falls apart & a dropped valve will put a rod out the block. Do you reckon it stops at TDC?? Which cyls??

Grab a similar panel off another car, even a rooted panel from a wrecker- bonnet or door. Just strip the paint off it and use that, it will be a siimilar thickness and type of steel. We've just chopped bits off the old rally Celica for panel steel. Have a road adventure to Walcha and chop the bits you need out of a body up here!

Yep- If you haven't got access to a welder then at least fibreglass over it before you fill. Bog itself has little strength and poor adhesion over big holes. Fibreglass has a lot more strength and is more flexible so it can move with the steel, especially if you can get it on both sides of the metal. I used it on the holes around the boot of the gold KE70, they were in the same spots.

Those are pretty typical Km for modern engines, the engineering is just light-years ahead of the 1980s. I expect alloy blocks with liners are most common now too. You used to be able to fit new liners to motors that had them back in the 80s, you could buy a kit of liners/gaskets/pistons with rings to fit. Some were wet liners with O-rings at the bottom, some dry pressed liners. When I'm bored I'll hit the wrecker for a look too. The gearbox adapter will be the trick.

I was talking to Steve about this last week- The 4AGE is geting older and older and will be harder to find, so we need to jump a couple of generations & get into some new motors. What's the water setup on the back like Banjo?? That will always be a pain to fit against the firewall. At least we can get past the old 'dizzy sticking out the back of the head' problem now. Older cars (1950s Armstrong Siddeleys spring to mind)) had a curved plate of metal behind the radiator, across the front from chassis rail to rail, & the engine mount was in that, so it can be done OK. I reckon straight-forward engineering problems like mounts are the easiest ones to solve. Getting the cooling system set up can be worse, and finding a modern gearbox would be vital as the T50s are all worn out now. Any options to the J160?? In the end, dropping in the whole lot from an MX5 makes sense!

I wondered about this back when I converted the Girls KE70 to 5K dizzy and I looked at getting a modern 'dry' low-impedence coil. As it happens I've never got around to it, so its still running the stock 4K coil that was in it when we bought it 10years ago, although now the whole motor and everything is in the Hoonicorn. Its still got the ballast resistor on it too. I assume you've checked it at night to see if its sparking out somewhere, and no doubt its the worst sort of miss that only occurs under load sometimes. Is it worth tossing in any coil to see if the miss vanishes, and then tossing in any spark plugs to see if that get rid of it??

You will probably have to get the driveshaft (cardan?) made up of your rear half and a T50 gearbox front half. The AE71 Corolla, which is the KE70 with a 4AC motor, will have the right shaft. As Spirit said, they have the cross-member, the pedal box, the whole gearbox and hydraulic clutch as well. So either buy an AE71 and a 4AGE, or even better find a wrecked AE86 to get motor, gearbox, hydraulic clutch, pedal box, front cross-member, and driveshaft. Then you could also use the larger AE86 struts & brakes, which need the AE86 steering arms. As its a race car you can make stuff fit in a way that we could not drive on the road here. Make your own motor mounts, modify the KE70 pedal box etc. --------------------------- Vous devrez probablement obtenir l'arbre de transmission (cardan?) composé de votre moitié arrière et d'une moitié avant de boîte de vitesses de T50. La Corolla AE71, qui est le KE70 avec un moteur 4AC, aura l'arbre droit. Comme l'a dit Spirit, ils disposent de la traverse, de la boîte à pédales, de l'ensemble de la boîte de vitesses et de l'embrayage hydraulique. Donc, soit acheter un AE71 et un 4AGE, ou encore mieux trouver un naufrage AE86 pour obtenir le moteur, boîte de vitesses, embrayage hydraulique, boîte à pédales, traverse avant et arbre de transmission. Ensuite, vous pouvez également utiliser les plus grands AE86 struts & freins, qui ont besoin des bras de direction AE86. Comme c'est une voiture de course, vous pouvez faire des trucs en forme d'une manière que nous ne pouvions pas conduire sur la route ici. Fabriquez vos propres supports de moteur, modifiez la pédale KE70 etc. ----------------- Also hoping Google translate works!

The aircon will be a giant job, as I found when I took mine out. Even the corner vents have different plastic ducts. PM me if you need parts, I stacked it all in the Woolshed. ..or take a holiday, drive up to the farm in Walcha with all the gear and we can fit it in a day or two.