altezzaclub

Dying to see how the suspension all works together!

You'd better give it a general going over- a compression test, check tappets and then ignition points gap and timing. Once you have a better idea of the general health of the motor, start with the fuel pump. Disconnect it from the carb and see if it is pumping fuel at cranking speeds. A blocked fuel filter would make it difficult at cranking speeds too. Then take the top off the carb and clean the needle & seat where the fuel comes in. Take out the jets and the idle screw then squirt fuel or carb cleaner through them and through the drillings in the carb body. I just use a small syringe without a needle. When its back together check that the accelerator pump actually pumps fuel into the throat, and that the choke closes over the throat and opens the throttle. A rebuild kit doesn't do much really, unless the accel pump is not working, the problems are usually from sludge drying out over the years and blocking jets & drillings. Here's the general picture-

Fire it up with the radiator cap off and a 0-110deg thermometer in the rad. Just let it idle for 15minutes, or slip a sheet of cardboard down in front of the radiator to speed up the warmup. It shouldn't heat up at all, then suddenly get warm all at once. That's when the t'stat opens. If it is gradual all the way then the t'stat is stuck open. Some radiator shops will clean the block out by removing the radiator hoses and sticking a giant water-blaster hose in. You can do the same by removing the water pump while you have the rad out for a flush sometime and sticking a hose down the side of the bores. As banjo said, the dirt and rust builds up at the back of the block around #4 cyl.

I doubt there are any, the skinny little KE70 struts and axles were a line of their own with Celicas and Coronas being larger. Where are you that they are so hard to find? There are half a dozen sets at the wrecker in Orange. Do you want the disc as well, or literally just the hub?

I recently ordered a pair of tie-rod ends for the KE70, and when they arrived they were short ones for steering box setups. The guys at onlineautoparts were happy to swap them at no charge, but the manual in front of him said the ones they sent fitted a KE70...

Corona XT130 struts are a bolt-in on KE70s, replacing the 48mm diam strut with a 50mm, and giving a far wider range of shocks able to be fitted. Also from Celicas. However in KE70s they also need Corona/Celica steering arms as the bolt spacing between the steering arm and the strut base is different. I'm not sure if they go straight into KE30s. Then the Celica steering arm is longer so you get slower steering response and less lock.. Fitting them does give a bigger hub, disc and caliper, but that adds unsprung weight and affects the lightness of the front end.

The lovely thing about Webers is that you can change almost everything inside to fit any motor. You can chase smaller chokes to restrict the airflow down to 1.3L limits and jet it to suit. You can see from this chart a single or twins are OK.

The 5th gear drops the revs by 300rpm at 100kph, so it helps a little but not much. Your other options are a 41. diff instead of a 4.3, not sure which you have, or taller tyres. The 3K lacks the power to pull much of a higher gear.

Grab your multimeter and disconnect any wire on the alty +ve, then see if there is a circuit between there and the body. The +ve terminal should be insulated from the body to allow it to pump power through the car. That's what the insulating washer should be doing.

As always I wrote down my username and password years ago, but when I tried to log in today it said the password had to be 6 characters long, and mine is only 5. That finished that, followed up by the Hotmail email I used on it no longer existing according to Microsoft. I think I'll just write it all off as a typical modern day incident as the internet matures. In reality we should be parking truck bombs outside their headquarters.

Check the amperage output of the alty. They are better than generators at low revs, but still have a lower output at lower revs. Ask an auto electrician or a battery shop to put an ammeter over it and check the voltage regulation. As you say, its a lack of power to the whole car & the fuel pump noise is just a symptom.

All you can do is chase up an old pair of struts with the wet inserts. You can make them stiffer going down by closing off one of the valve holes and easier coming up by taking out one or two of the spring shims. I haven't done Toyota ones, although we have a couple of stripped ones in the Woolshed somewhere, but we used to do this when we rallied Datsuns 40years ago. The track MX5 is exactly the opposite to what you need now...

Sounds like fun! What are the diff plans? If you weld it, don't weld the teeth together, fill the opposite teeth & leave some play in the diff. The real answer is a T-series out of a Jap car, Celica or whatever, then an LSD, but that's expensive. Same for shocks, anything for road use will suck you down onto the dirt, but Bilsteins for rally work are $1600 for a set. You''ll have to pull the original wet struts apart, change the valving with some Araldite and put in fresh oil. Take off the front sway bar, or even both, which is how we run. Find Sigma or Corona LCAs for more camber, everything to help it turn in. Read these- https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/64027-how-not-to-build-a-rally-car/#comment-641089 https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/69126-how-to-build-a-rally-car/?gopid=680040#entry680040 https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/ There might be something useful in them, we work cheap!

The cranking dying is probably poor starter windings. They are OK to start with then lose power when they heat up. Once its tuned and sorted it will start immediately so that won't be a problem.

More than that, you will see the paired cylinder's rockers cross over. So compression on #1 is when #4's exhaust closes upwards and inlet opens downwards. Compression on #2 is when #3's rockers are going past one another and about equal height. Like you say, the cylinder to be adjusted will have slack in both tappets.

Start a topic about it and post a couple of photos., then we can chat. Read this article and make a list. I think you'd be better to do a 4AGE first as it is simpler, you can always sell it afterwards as a complete unit or as a running car, and it will give you enough experience and confidence to finish an SR20 conversion.

Another week on it! Kitchen bench is in and holding the door jamb in place, wall panel replaced, mudguard box done and the TV stand re-made. The couch fits fine. Next is to sand & varnish the floor, then make a bed down the side opposite the TV cabinet. Back up in a week or two, when we start technical details like plumbing and siting it. Maybe THEN we can get into shed clearing and workshop concrete!

Civilised countries like Britain have all lights go orange at the same time. So, green, orange, red, red+orange, green... That way everyone waiting at the red has the orange time to get their shit together. I didn't think an army uniform was that disrespected, it must be contamination from the politicians. In the end, the Armed Forces are the thugs of the biggest gang in the land, and when the politicians make stupid decisions like Iraq & Afganistan the Army gets dragged in.

There are no winners.. But then again, there are no comparisons either, you only get one shot at being alive. So which decision was a good one can't be found when you can't try each option. However, one thing I can say is that its better tackled when you're young, there's no point in deciding you've married the wrong person when you're 60!

This is the best one I've found- https://www.dropbox.com/s/s0xs2udvrv9qfl2/downloadfile.jpg?dl=0 Possibly there was other damage, like a short out somewhere that has destroyed one of the 3 fusible links. You'll need a $10 multimeter from Jaycar or Supercheap, and you'll have electrics as an expertise by the time you're finished. Just start at the battery and trace 12V everywhere on the wiring diagram.

I didn't have to change anything when I put the 4AGE in, so the car is stock in the suspension & brakes.. Well, it inherited Celica rear drums with I fitted the diff out of an RA60, but that was years before the 4AGE. Maybe with the extra capacity you have to upgrade brakes and suspension, but you'd better talk it over with a couple of licencing engineers and decide who will certify it before you start. If you're in Sydney, check The Girls KE70 for the guy in I used, I can't think of his name right now. He was excellent.

Front brakes do 80% of the braking , so they are much bigger and heavier. The brakes of the halfcut will do the fronts, and the brakes on the diff will do the back.

I think the bolt spacings are different between the Jap RA40 and the Aussie KE70 struts. You don't need to change the brakes when fitting a 4AGE, all the rest of the car is quite stock on mine. As I said to the engineer, you still only drive at 100kph, and the stock brakes will lock up the tyres so that's all you need. Its quicker uphill, not downhill. However if you're going racing its a whole new ball game. The conversion I need to sort out is a small ventilated disc off an old Suzuki at the wrecker. A lightweight ventilated system would be better than a bigger heavier solid disc. Just the weight of the 4AGE & T50 has a noticeable effect on the handling, so adding more unsprung weight will just make it worse. We use RA40 & XT130 suspension on the rally car and Steve's road car as both have Bilsteins fitted. The larger strut dianeter gives a wide range of shocks compared to the stock KE70 ones. The bigger brakes are a bonus in the rally car.

Yes, hundreds of millions of photos around the web, so much knowledge and education gone, or now held hostage by them. Most of it will never be seen again, not many people have the $400 a month or the time to re-write their life.

No reason why not- Rob on here had one in his Dyna, went OK but pretty industrial. Peak power is at 4400rpm, which tells you what its designed for.. Plenty of torque though. They were used in the early Great Walls, so you can buy things like new rubber spark plug tube O-rings for the 4K from a Great Wall agent. You'd need a 3.7 or a 3.9 diff!