altezzaclub

Nice- i've amended it slightly to show how a big points gap (new points) opens the points earlier from their closed position in the middle of the flat part of the shaft 'cam'. The worn points have to wait longer before the lobe pushes them open, the rotor has turned further, so the spark occurs a few degrees later. They also don't open as far and close sooner, and that upsets the coil charging time.

The neutral switch is under the center console, by the auto gearlever. Which signal wire up by the battery? Do you have a wiring diagram you can label it on for us? Check the wire that activates the starter solenoid. Do you get 12V at the starter when you turn the key to start? Check the coil +ve, do you get 12V with the key "on" and do you still get power there with the key on "start".

Don't forget there are two circuits running the coil! One comes on when you turn the ignition on, and it is the one that keeps the ignition on when you are driving. The second one only powers the coil when you crank it, and the first one is switched off. So when you first turn the key you use circuit 1, then you turn that off and use circuit 2, then turn that off as you let the "start' position go and use circuit 1 again. If you have a problem with the "start" circuit you can get power at the dizzy with the ignition on OK, but as soon as you crank it you lose ignition. So just make sure you are getting 12V at the coil with the key on "start". You can bypass it by running a wire from battery +ve to coil +ve and having permanent power on the coil while you try for a spark.

Well, when you find out what it is we will all be surprised! So, power goes from the coil to the module and back to the coil. That should fire the coil. Have you seen the dizzy turn? No use putting the cap on and not knowing the shaft pin has sheared! Do you have the tiny airgap between the rotating vanes on the dizzy shaft and the pickup sensor module? A points-type gap is way too large. Dizzy cap is OK? Not losing the spark becasue the carbon tit in the cap doesn't touch the rotor top? Does it make a spark plug spark is the question, it doesn't matter if the car won't start. Test it with the spark plugs all out and one plug on its lead with a bare wire wound around the thread and the wire bolted to earth.

I can't explain why it changed, but the best way to set points is with a dwell meter. That way it doesn't matter what the surface of the points is like, because once they are used the surfaces are not paralell or flat anymore. Grease on the rubbing block? I'm sure you did..

That is the simplest way to go. The slant just adds to the inlet convolutions, and to make it straighter you have to upright and make a new inlet manifold. With a blower on it doesn't matter that much, you just push air around the corners. Take photos as you go, I'm dyng to see it put together!

Now it won't allow me to put a link in the reply to a subject. So a couple of times today I've gone to put the front page of The Girls KE70 into a topic for some new guy, and it says "Forbidden, unexpected error.." The 2nd time I hit the "Link" button and just lost the reply, which invoked the first rule of the internet- A reply NEVER gets rewritten. I like the old Rollaclub system!!

Yep, but its too big for here. PM me an email address & I will shoot it over to you.

I'd pop the fuel tank out and wash it out with fresh petrol before trying the list Banjo has given. Having a car sit for decades really makes a mess of the mechanical bts.

Going for the alty mount (passenger's side?) or aircon mount on the driver's?? Making a new inlet manifold?? One that faces forward? Moving the battery down to the chassis on the driver's side? Easy to do and gives a lot of space on the passenger's. Uprighting the motor?! The way it is just makes everything to do with induction a problem.

haha! Struck me too.. Some version of Sabine Schmitz with an M3 on the 'ring

Just check that second wire coming back from the dizzy to the coil -ve carries a circuit and its not broken somewhere. Other than that, yeah looks like the module has died.

"Cough".. dizzy assumed to be turning the opposite way, points set on the wrong side of the shoulder.... An easy enough mistake to make.

Shoot him a PM- Basically the twin-cam drive bits were all mounted in front of the 4K timing gear, which is why you need the alloy block that carries the cam bearings and gears to stick forward. That's why it pays to be a machinist to build one... An amazing work of art!

Yep, great idea! Ever since I drove my son's Fiesta ST I've been keen on the lightweight high performance small capacity motors coming out as a reliable, quiet stock unit. Not for a race car but as a great daily driver, I wouldn't look to change the turbo for a bigger unit or modify it for performance They can jump us 35years of engine technology in one hit.

4K against 4AGE...It would be an uphill battle- Tommy's KE11 would do it. You have a side-cam 8valve 1300 trying to chase a twin-cam 16valve 1600, chalk and cheese. You have to nearly double to horsepower, effectively 58bhp against 112bhp. The problem with the 4K is that it will always be only 1300cc, so you lack the torque, and the 8valve non-crossflow will never be as efficient. The problem with a 4AGE is that it needs a new gearbox and a propshaft at least, and usually a new diff too. But its stock and reliable and smooth.. Both will cost plenty...

That narrows it down. So power goes into the coil +ve, out the coil -ve to the distributor, into the transistor pack module and sits there until the trigger spins past the sensor. That magnetic pulse opens the circuit to earth and the power flashes through the coil. That flow makes the coil produce the high voltage spark. So your problem is either- in the coil, its broken inside. You can test it with your 12V power wire on by shorting it out the -ve side, just tapping it on steel somewhere briefly. It should spark at the wire you're holding, and maybe spark off the plug lead. You could put a multimeter across +ve & -ve with one of them disconnected and it should give a resistance. or in the dizzy wiring to the electronics, so just check that the wires do take power all the way to the modules & back. Maybe one wire is broken inside. or in the modules, in which case you need new ones.

Ok, listen carefully- Is there any play between the back wheels if you jack up the diff & turn one wheel?? If the diff has been welded properly there should be almost half a turn of one wheel before it picks up the other and turns it. If there is no play at all then definately throw it away. You can weld the spider gears to each other in a diff, and it will lock the system like there was no diff at all. That just wants to go straight ahead all the time and forces the tyres to fight with each other and front against rear. Instant understeer everywhere unless you can get the tail to lose traction & slide. or, you can fill a tooth gap in the spider gear with weld, and then fill the matching teeth in the other gears. That lets the spider gears rotate around until the hit the weld, which gives you one wheel moving without the other and lets the car turn into a corner before it locks the diff. A much better idea, its what we rally with if we can't afford an LSD. You need that initial turn-in. But really, there is no substitute for a 4AGE conversion, its like the car should have been produced. They should never have used the 4K at all, or the 4AC. So as Ben says above, fix what's broken and just get the suspension, brakes and tyres back up to perfect while you save money for a 4AGE setup. Get some longer LCAs for the front, and a thicker sway for the rear. Remember it only spins the inside wheel when it rolls, so stop it rolling. Catch up with some of the Tassie guys and go for a drive in their cars, you'll soon decide what you need to aim for, they have some great stuff down there.

You shouldn't get detonation, the motor is doing no work at idle. Then when you open the throttle to get it to do some work the vacuum collapses and the ignition retards. You will hear any detonation or pinking anyway, its not like running a turbo, and it will be at wide-open throttle with the cylinders as full as possible and the ignition running purely on the centrifugal weights. More modern carbs run with ported vac, a port that goes into the airflow right at the throttle plate closing spot, so it gets cut off or very reduced at idle. It still retards as you open the throttle, but doesn't carry so much vac advance at idle. It is more active at high airflow speeds. You can run both ports at once on a duel diaphram distributor. What fuel do you use?? I just United's 95 all the time, modified 4K, 4AGE with cams and the 3SGE in the Altezza all run on it. You can run it w/o the vac at all, its just an anti-pollution thing. All our Corollas probably take up 20 modern cars with thier clean exhausts, so an extra bit of nitrogen oxides won't matter!

nah- Spins slowly and the radius is so small it has no centrifugal force. Weld the pin in and keep the gear removeable. Use a piece of dowel to get the followers out if the magnet doesn't do it. Life them slowly as the oil makes them stick to the walls. No need to lift the head. Something doesn't quite sound right, I didn't think there was much force on a cam. All it does is push the valves open, although I have see a pin broken out before. The cam will be fairly hard steel, brittle enough to snap occasionally. I suppose if the washer bent then the pin would get pushed hard if the wheel backed off a mm. Those washers are 2 or 3mm thick!

Check the points gap & timing just in case, a cold engine does give the ignition a hard time. If it is idling fine when its hot, then is a choke problem. The cable should open the throttle first, then close the flap over. You might find you only noticed the flap closing, and someone has adjusted the choke idle screw & inadvertently made it useless so it just closes the flap and doesn't raise the idle. Take a look.

What you is quite correct. Cars used to run no vacuum advance at all, it was added as an anti-pollution device in the 70s. The first ones came off the inlet manifold like yours, and the timing was set as you did. Take the vac line off and block it. (or the massive air leak into the inlet will lean out the mixture and the motor dies) Then set to 8deg advance, put the vac line back on and adjust the idle speed on the carb to suit. So you have it idling at 25deg- this is needed as a lean mixture is difficult to burn so you start the fire earlier. THAT is why there is a vac advance- you boot the car to accelerate and the vacuum collapses from the open throttle and the ignition retards. Then when you have speed up you back off the throttle, lean the motor out and the vacuum advances to burn the mixture thoroughly. If it is too advanced and you get pinking as you boot it, it won't be the vac advance, it has no affect when the throttle is open. The weights do the rest of the advance curve, and the usual way to find optimum advance was to floor the accelerator and listen for pinking. If there was none you advanced it a few degrees and did it again. You timed the acceleration with a stopwatch and picked the fastest time, as over-advancing will slow it down overall. Finally, 4Ks will take massive advance, I had one of mine idling at 18deg without vac and it drove fine.

Can't be welded back in?? Just braze the pin in and the piece back on, the overlap of the cam gear wheel holds it in place. You can always melt it out again in the future if you need to. Are 4K cams the same?? There are a couple lying around the Woolshed, but no 3Ks.

Throw away the diff... just a terrible idea! otherwise the car looks great, and the AE86 bits are a bonus! So- How much power do you want? How much money do you have to put into it? How much experience in doing your own mechanical rebuiling do you have? Those will determine what we suggest. Take a read through this- So the big decision is to either dump a couple of grand into the 4K or replace it with a 4AGE. For style, anything goes.. I like the "quad headlight/chrome bumper on 6x13" rims" look, but whatever you prefer is the way to go.

Yep- I've got two sets, one for each KE70, and three other sets spread around the farm. Ours were the $30 ones with blue and white plastic from a year or three back, but a vast improvement over stock lights and no troubles with them yet. My original home-made setup I did years ago when we bought The Girls KE70 was replaced by one set, then the original relays were used in the 4AGE conversion