altezzaclub

Good to know its still happening! We're still to sell two Coronas, clean out the tank shed (a massive job), get a concrete slab laid inside and THEN its back onto the rally car!

LoL ! Well done! Definately not a common problem!

Nice! Keep sprayng the anti-rust stuff into it to keep the salty air out.

Nice toys! I suppose you have lots of old cars tucked away in the backblocks of the island just waiting to be discovered and restored.

Hover your mouse over his name and send him a message.. Its 6months since he was last on here.

Nice! Not quite a 124 Spyder, or a Lancia, or MGB... but very similar... Something Italian..

Either lean or rich.. What does it run like when accelerating, cruising and slowing down?? Lean from still having dirt stuck in the idle circuit, so although the jet might be clean there might still be something blocking a drilling passageway, or lean from having an air leak into the inlet manifold. Rich from having dirt in the needle & seat that has been pumped there after the carb rebuild, or from having the wrong float level, which is hard to do. Either would flood the car at idle.

Just count the diff rotations- Fix one wheel with a crowbar so the other turns freely, turn the pinion 4 turns and see where the turning wheel has got to. The KE70s are 4.1 and 4.3 so they had a lower gearing in the auto there.

Lol !! We think the same of our politicians too! I didn't realise the geology of the Phillipines was magnetic, but I suppose there must be a few places on the Earth that are like that. Impossible to run machinery well. Does the solenoid open & the idle come in as the revs come right down?? Does it pick up the throttle easily if you want to cruise after you have slowed down, so you gently add accelerator?? What is the vacuum-electric switch like?? I like that invention!

Now THAT is clever! But still, those figures are terrible compared to a KE70 running a highway in Aussie.

Still haven't fitted the alloy rad, it copes OK with the stock one but takes longer to drop excess heat after a run up hills or sitting in traffic. As an exercise I looked up a manufacturuer of electric rad fans and calculated that their cfm rate worked out to about 20-25kph. So up to that speed your electric fan is pulling air through the rad, and above that it just gets in the way of the airflow. We checked the volume of water that the 3-row and the 2-row alloy rads held and there was bugger-all difference! They hold about 1.75L I think it was, most of a 2L water bottle. We'll weigh them next time I'm up at the Woolshed.

Not much harder than a 4AGE, looking at SQs list. Plain mechanical engineering like making engine mounts is not hard, and the airbox & dizzy problems seem to have been sorted. The motor is still just a motor, same as fitting a 3SGE in there. The only swapping around will be the ancillaries like the dizzy and water parts on the back of the head.

Council haven't grabbed it yet, so if you want to build a race car come and get it. Shoot me a PM... Strip the interior, fit a cage & some race suspension & off you go! In Orange Cental West NSW. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/73113-sr20-motor-for-sale/

OK, got it- Davies Craig figures are about 1000cfm for a 12" fan. If that area is about a 3/4square foot, then the air comes out at 1300ft/min, which is about 23kph. So an electric fan running in a car is overtaken at 25kph driving speed, and every speed above that is being made less efficient at cooling. I've got a bright idea on how to solve this... might take some time...

It might.. The manufacturers usually have cold air intakes fitted, like the KE70, but these are not performance orientated. So an aftermarket one might have less drag in the filter setup and allow more air through, or not have the bends that allow designers to fit it in an odd place, or not have the quietening design to keep noise down.. Certainly the colder the air the denser, so the more that can be crammed into the cylinders. The cold air part is mostly in slow/stationary traffic as a 100kph wind going in under the bonnet evens the temperature out quite quickly. Its over 30deg outside today, and there's nothing a cold air intake can do about that! Vaguely on this topic, does anyone have an idea of electric fan wind speeds?? At what speed does the car overtake the fan air?? I figure the electric fan only does something useful when stopped or crawling along slowly, and once you're doing 50kph the car's motion cools the rad. From some speed upwards the fan is just adding drag to the air going through the radiator, and the shroud just gets in the way & makes the rad less efficient.

..and if you ever crash it you will regret the time very very much!! Nothing like putting hundreds of hours into a build to make you a careful driver!

Nice condition! Worth looking after.. Motor and gearbox swap is not too hard, just drain all the oils and water first. The auto can really make a mess of a garage floor! Don't forget there is auto oil in the bottom of the radiator. Hang onto your 4K, you can use it as a dummy motor for head porting and making manifolds for carbs and all sorts.

How bad is the fuel usage?? The Girls KE70 with its 4AGE just did 6.7L/100km Walcha to Orange, while the Hoonicorn with its 4K did 7.3 last month on the same trip. Its about 600km fill to fill. That's pleasant 100kph driving through mountains for most the distance, then a boring run up the New England Highway for about 1/3 of it.

Well, sounds like its a stock 4K and you know enough to strip it and find the rattle. If you rebuild it you know its good for years to come, although it will probably cost more than an unknown bought engine you just fit and hope.

I run one to get fresh ambient air into the carbs rather than warm air that has been through the radiaitor and heated up. That's only because I can't run the stock cold air inlet on the KE70, but you should be able to if it is all factory still.. Mine pressurised the airbox and leaned out the rear cylinders until I put a vent valve on it that opens under 100kph pressure and closes when going slow. Its in "The Girls KE70"

Search for the red and blue... ooops- OK, R is red for wiring, and L is blue (because they used B for black..) So RL is a red wire with a blue stripe. From your fusebox (12) the red/blue wire goes to the gearbox reverse light switch, then to the lights at the back. We need to know if your gearbox has been converted from auto to manual (different wiring, and the hole for the gearlever has been cut differently) and what colours the wires are that you have.

Where abouts do you live?? 4K engines are common and cheap. I don't know what a jem engine is, Holden Gemini?? Throw it away! Also, what gearbox is on it?? To return to a Corolla motor might be difficult unless you have a donor car for engine, gearbox and driveshaft. How much do you know about working on cars and what can you do yourself??

Nice! Want to put up a build thread?? What did the efi come out of?? Are you in one of the CT car clubs?? I was in CPMCC for years...

Yes ! You list out what you think you need in the way of throttle bodies, plenums, manifolds, sensors, ECUs etc, and we will add to the list. The only way really is to buy a complete 3T-EU motor with everything on it and use all the parts. I reckon trying to gather parts and buy odd bits will be all too hard.

Check them & see if they are worn. Jack up the LCA and watch the LCA-balljoint movement, or feel it as you lift the LCA. I've only replaced one set of the 4 sets of LCAs I have.