altezzaclub

Yeah, that's the hardest time for a carb. The motor is off idle and has to produce power, but the throttle is hardly open to give any flow. The idle jet is still doing most of the work then, so take it out, take out the adjusting soeed screw and hose petrol or carb cleaner through the drillings. I use a syringe full of petrol, but an aerosol with a tube on will do it. If you've got a compresor follow it up with a blast of air. My twin SUs struggle with the same thing, although the surge is only when I lift off at those revs. If that doesn't fix it, the timing is also difficult at those revs as it is the steep part of the timing curve. Any slop in the advance weights or dizzy gears might be the problem.

Any clues on the stutter? Do you reckon lean or rich when it does it? Does the carb have a window for fuel level?? Does it idle fine? What sort of rpm or what speed in which gear when it plays up? Slight throttle on or slight throttle off, or over-run with no throttle? It might pay to start by pull the top off the carb and clean out the jets and drillings in there.

1- Find 5K and buy it 2-Pull out 4K, drop in 5K 3-drive away... I'd pop the head off the 5K and check everything, do a valve grind and a little porting, fit a Weber carb, get the cam ground while its all apart, fit extractors and a sports exhaust. That's the usual plan for warming up a K motor. The 5K is basically a 4K with a bigger bore, and usually with hydraulic tappets. They have two types of dished pistons that act as the combustion chamber, the shallow O-dish and the deeper D-dish, so the heads are very shallow. Everything else like crank, bearings, timing chains is 4K. You can bore your 4K block to take the 5K pistons, but arguments are for and against because it makes the walls thin. Search for 5K conversions on here and PM the guys concerned, some of them have done great things with them. Tommy pulled 130RWHP out of his here- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/19886-my-ke-11/page__hl__%205k__st__390

Wiki says a 4K-C does 43KW at 5200rpm & 90NM of torque. The 7K produces 60KW at only 4600rpm & 140NM at 2800. So yes, a grunty motor but remember its from a van, so its not going to be a sporty revvy motor in a car. You could change the cam, but you'll never overcome the problem of the long stroke. They also mention the bigger gearbox to haul loads in a van. You can get that 60KW out of a 5K at 5200rpm, but not as much torque. Its a nice idea for a motor upgrade, a lot easier than fitting the 4AGE, but a long way from the 85 or 90KW you get.

Wooo..! that's some shopping list! Planning on any competitive work in it?? Trackdays or hillclimbs or such? Be a waste to just drive all that gear to work and back...

Isn't it easier to change the face of the dial? Fit a plastic sheet on it with the figures in the correct place?? Repaint the stock speedo face? We use to stick a round disc on the outside of the Datsun speedo with speeds marked on it for closed-odo rallies, where accurate speed was crucial.

So, going through it.. If the red charge light goes out when its running, the alty should be good. If your multimeter shows over 13V when the car is running, you can be sure the alty is good. If the starter solenoid doesn't click when you turn the key, check the black wire going to the solenoid for power. It may be a problem in the wiring or in the key switch. If the starter "clicks" when you turn the key to 'start', then the solenoid is working even if the starter doesn't turn over. It might not be working enough to fire the starter motor, but it has power so any problems are not in the key. The lights might flicker or dim slightly when it clicks. If the starter turns over a little but not enough to start, then the key and the solenoid are working, but you might have worn brushes in the starter, a poor earth or poor 12V supply, or solenoid contacts that are burnt. If the starter cranks OK but the car doesn't fire, it could be fuel or spark. Time for a tuneup for the electrics- the points, condensor, spark plugs need checking and replacing if bad. Then set the ignition timing. Fuel side, the pump needs to be working, but if it is bad you will probably suffer starvation when your foot is hard down overtaking someone, it should manage idle OK. You can take the air cleaner off and see if a fuel jet is sprayed down the throat when you flick the throttle open. If the pump jet is spraying fuel, you have fuel in the carb. You could take the top off the carb and see if there is sediment in the bottom of the carb, but that won't stop it starting usually. Pop the float off while you're in there and check the needle and seat. If there is a fibre on the seat you might be suffering flooding while trying to start. This- doesn't agree with this- Could you have a short circuit in the electrics that drains the battery?? A car alarm you don't know about (Which I had on one car..) or the stereo not wired in correctly?? Overall- check the voltage when its running and make sure the alty is charging. check the points and re-gap if they look newish. If they are burnt then replace them and the condensor. check the plugs for gap. If the electrode is burnt away replace them. check the timing. 10deg at idle will run it fine, no dizzy vac connected. You could set the tappets while you're in there if they are noisy, it never hurts to learn these things. Check for the accelerator pump next time it doesn't start correctly. Let us know exactly what happens and we can start the next round of suspects... coil, idle cut-out solenoid, head gasket.. If you need a hand in doing any of this, just ask.

Don't do it up so tight Bulant, and if you take it off use a silicon sealant on both sides. I think the common problem is to screw them up so much it squeezes the rubber out, but overall its not a brilliant design. A rear leak is very common, and the hardest to get to if you want to fix it.

Got the paperwork, so all done! Thankyou to Ian Carpenter at Kreative Enterprises in Windsor! A great guy with a fascinating background in hotrods and modifying cars. I'm back up to Walcha tomorrow to swap cars again, in the snow apparently... Rally Sweden!

For me it was easiest to run alty wires under the rad to the original wiring on the passenger's side. An extra one goes up to the COR relay box just above the alty, and the electric fan wires come out of the same loom. I'm using a Camry plug on my alty too, also that odd plug on the ECU. I had to run a few wires down that driver's guard but I didn't put them in the loom. That will be much neater.

On the next diff just fill a set of teeth with weld, opposite each other on the spider geears. So they can turn untl they all hit a welded gap at once, then they can turn back the other way until the same point jams. That allows about 1/3 of a wheel turn before they lock, which lets the nose turn in much better rather than be pushed straight ahead. Because the welds are being crushed they can't snap, you'll have to break 4 teeth off before it fails.

...and for next time you've learnt you don't have to pull all the dash out to change pedal boxes.. A dog of a job! Who wants to be first to remote the clutch master to the passenger's side. It just needs a length of tube across under the dash to a master cyl in the LHD position. Looking forward to seeing the bumper on sometime.

Are you going to pay them for painting the underside of the bonnet, boot & the door frames and stuff?? or get a few aerocans of Royal Blue and do them first??

Did you loosen it a little before doing it up?? If not, try that. Make sure you smack the locking tab flat before doing it, and make a bar to bolt onto two bolt holes and take up the leverage as you turn the socket. The pinion nut pushes two thrust bearings together, they locate the pinion shaft in the diff. Between them is a crush tube that should keep them the right distance apart at the correct toque to get an oil film on the bearings. However you actually do it up until you get a certain torque friction when the shaft turns, just like doing the front wheel brgs to a touch of play. It measures the friction as the pinion turns, but not the crownwheel, so its only a few mm movement. I think you're up for a full diff strip, but start with taking out the front bearing & crush tube and seeing what is wrong. If the bearing surfaces look OK then try doing it back up. In theory you always need a new crush tube, and you will need the torque friction for when it is correct. Its only an inch.lb measurement, so you might have to make a little weight set on an arm to measure it. Its the pinion pre-load, if you can find the data for it. If the nut was always tight then something sad has happened inside.

Well, now you've reached the sad ending of "what would have been.." with a lot of work and a lot of money gone into something that is basically a fantastic car but not quite... How would you tackle the whole project & what would you do differently if you did it again??

Not quite so simple.. Don't forget that a voltmeter won't read the same voltage at the relay once the relay is working. It reads 12V when a circuit is not connected, but when current is flowing the voltage drops according to the resistance of the stuff in the circuit. So if the solenoid resistance is about 4ohms, then 12V will drop 8V to your 4V with 2 amps current. Grab your multimeter and measure the resistance at the solenoid terminal. What was the original problem with the starter?? Does it start now?

Yep, you have to bridge the wires in the plug that was the park disabler. I use a fuse... Handy to take with you when you park the car in unsavory areas.. Mine were-

& & interesting shit... I can't believe they make DOT 5 in silicon and DOT 5.1 in glycol, its is guaranteed to confuse people! I'm sure DOT 4 will do you.

Use the stock starter wire, I think its black, on the pass side. I found two wires that went right around from driver's coil area to the pass electrical box, & used them both. Very handy, already loomed in.

Yes, it was. Those little springs were the only ones I could find of a large enough diameter, and even then we ran them upside down so they fitted as best we could. They will fit the KE70 vaguely, but the inner diameter is a mm or so smaller than the diff spring mount I think. I still haven't drawn up a full wiring diagram of what I did and now I probably won't remember it all... I swapped The Girls 4AGE KE70 for the Golden Girl with its 4K yesterday and the difference was instant. No power of course, but lighter in the steering, clutch and gearbox, so quite different to drive.

White smoke... condensation?? Oil is blue smoke and unburnt fuel is sooty black, but white I thought was condensation. The sort of thing from a blown head gasket. What else did you do at the same time, and how was it running beforehand?

A black art, one that I don't know enough about. Talk to as many guys in the pits as you can and find someone who builds shocks, I reckon the chance of best outcome from an off-the-shelf unit is pretty slim. We are lining up Murray Cootes for the next rally car, I think MCA is the top of the list for motorsport currently.

Sounds like that is definately involved. Dad had a leaf (he reckons) in the tank that periodically blocked the intake and the car died, but by the time you stopped the motor was off , the suction gone and the leaf floated away, so it re-started fine. Pop the fuel level gauge plate out of the tank and shine a torch in to see what the fuel pickup tube looks like.

Sounds like the springs are too stiff for the shocks to control. Slap in some softer springs and try it, then a different set of shocks and see if it still does it. Diff head angle also has a role to play I think, it needs to start below horizontal and screw itself up to level under power.

Banjo you didn't proof-read it! I know what you mean, you know what you mean, but it isn't what you wrote... You're right, half a degree negative is all you need, even if the cool guys run some crazy shit.