altezzaclub

Ah, at least you know whether too rich or too lean! So, as you drive something reduces the fuel level or flow so when you stop there is not enough fuel to idle. Then slowly it catches up and has excess fuel for idle so it goes rich. The mechanical pump is chugging over slowly at idle, so it might take a minute to get the fuel back up to 'rich' level, whereas if you idle it from startup you won't burn the fuel level down to 'lean'. If I were you I would bodgy in a low-pressure electric pump before the mechanical, so it supplies more fuel at idle. Haven't you got that Repco one you used? That will tell you if it can be solved by more fuel low down. The mech pump obviously supplies enough higher up. Don't be despondent, I have the same problem on the new 4AGE. It now idles wonderfully when cold and while warming up, but once up to temp and you come to an intersection, when you lift off it dies to 400rpm or stalls out. If you flip the accelerator as the revs drop, it will grab the idle before it dies and poke it back up to 1000rpm, sometimes 1300. If you push the clutch in when driving and let it idle down slowly it will hold the 1000rpm. If I open up the idle screw when it is in the dying phase, it idles at 1600rpm in the 'normal' phase. So I'll spend the next few days doing the same as you, chasing an idle.

Yep, the guys are right. Pull all the front suspension off, because when you find the strut is ruined you will replace both at once, or at least both shocks with new inserts. Strip the struts back to stub axles, stand them on the edge of a bench and admire the differing stub axle angles. Look for slight bulges or signs of the cup coming off the strut tube. Go check the steering arms for matching, and the rack ends for straight. Then go buy a pair of lower control arms off a Corona RT and make sure they are 10mm longer. They will give you zero camber with new struts instead of the KE70s usual positive and help stop the understeer that got you where you are today. Search through this site for fitting Corona/Celica struts instead, and even chase up some coil-over prices. If you have it apart you might as well improve it, for as Banjo said, the KE70 has the smallest diameter, weakest strut of them all, which also limits the brakes and shocks you can fit.. New front wheel too I bet.

Have you used it enough to know if it runs hot?? Its always hard on the cooling system when you're on full power at very slow speeds. Tridon make hi-flow t'stats that flow 30% more water than the stock ones.

Just get an oblong of half inch thick flat steel about 200 by 150. I use it for cleaning up a lot of car parts when I want a surface sanded flat.

Yeah, losing the smoke terrified me! When I first drove the 4AGE I threw in a fire extinguisher to threaten it. Those weights would be interesting. The unsprung weight seems to get overlooked in a lot of conversions, and it changes the feel of the car a lot. Nothing off a fwd look like fitting?? The Suzukis and Mirages have small ventilated discs, but I haven't really chased it up since we put the rally car on hold.

Some people have used 5K pistons at 81mm... although I wouldn't guarantee it for all blocks.

just to go back to this bit- it runs OK when driving, but just doesn't idle and is pretty flat low down?? Have you hosed out the idle drillings since it started to run bad?? A blast of compressed air or carb cleaner aerosol? Not just the jet, but the passages in the carb body. Does screwing the idle mixture in and out have any effect? Can you see a jet of fuel being sprayed down the throat when you open the throttle quickly? I reckon idle circuit blockage too.

Just keep plugging away on the wiring, its the biggest part of the job. That diff will make it nice!

That's it! I forgot where you'd put it !! Thgis time I'll put the link somewhere I won't forget..

Nice! A lot of work has gone into that.

I haven't seen a diagram for that, they don't draw circuits by plugs for old cars like they do for new ones. You'll ahve to chase tehw ire colours for each item up the column, the key, the lights, wipers, horn, whatever... Here's the best diagram I've found, and if its not 2.28meg you'll have to pm me with an email address if Rollaclub cuts its size down. ------------------------------------------------------- Yeah- Shoot me a PM, R'club trims it back to 190Kb, so its unreadable.

I left the Ke70 lines stock and they feed a 4AGE without trouble. That's with a lift pump pushing the fuel forward to the main pump in the engine bay, maybe it wouldn't suck so well by itself.

Don't forget that these only restrict flow, not pressure. So they will starve it at high fuel demand but not affect it at idle.

Wouldn't the EGR just add dirty air to the inlet and not affect the fuel system?? Have you seen this happening? That's pretty definitive if you have. In theory the good ol' mechanical pump keeps a constant pressure going as it is rpm related, so low flow at idle and lots at high rpm. That leaves the float and needle to control the rest, and both of them you have sorted out. One other is the heat from the motor expanding the fuel in the lines, the problem that causes vapour-lock and used to push the fuel out of the fuel filter on one of my KE70s. Only if the motor has more heat being given off after being driven than just idling, which is most likely. That would put more pressure in the system after the fuel pump, so up the line and through the needle & seat. A long shot as the pump shouldn't pump against the increased pressure in the line anyway. Go for a run, let it idle at home and make sure it dies. Go for the same run, let it idle with the bonnet open and a wet rag on the fuel line/pump and see if it still dies. Best answer always.. "put a 4AGE in it!" Ah, no, my 4AGE does the same and its injected. Idles higher and higher from 1000-1300, then goes slower and slower until it dies. Doesn't do it when cold, only when hot. I think I might have it sorted now.

You can still buy bearings for the diff and set up the teeth properly. See if you can find a Celica one somewhere, the T-series banjo style. The stock Borg Warner is a terrible POS. You reckon that wing is not a front one by mistake?? ..or not put on the wrong way around? That will knock 10kph off the top speed...

Build it, then make a mount to fit. That is easier than trying to fit exhausts & inlets into a sub-standard place. You can easily bend the shifter with a welding torch.. its the sump that would need more work. I don't know how the gearbox lube system would handle it, but it has been done.

nah- I meant these ones, where the ends are f'glass packed with the engine side coming in through a drilled pipe & then aims straight for the solid rear wall of the middle chamber, where the sound pulses are meant to be absorbed. The center is dead empty so the gases can easily go to the exit pipe on the other side, which is drilled through into the rear compartment's fibreglass. I wish the manufacturers put more info out about their designs and how much they reduce noise with whatever restriction levels.

I wondered if the crank was slightly bent, looking at the wear to one side of the mains at the front, the other side of the mains at the rear. Not enough to worry about. ..and I reckon oil sludge and varnish will be the problem in the lifters. Strip & clean them all..Carb cleaner or paint stripper unless there are rubber O-rings involved.

Depends on the Police in your area... I always use the tri-chamber mufflers, I reckon they give good flow without much resistance and while not as quiet as stock they aren't enough to get you stopped. The middle chamber is just ampty space, the ends full of fibreglass. I have a 2" on the 4AGE and an inch & 1/2 on the 4K, and I reckon they are about the same. The 4AGE measured 85dB for engineering last week, enough for people to turn and look in the street sometimes. Straight-throughs I can't stand, far too noisy outside and inside, but they are often real cheap and have thin walls. One thing I learnt in Altezzaclub was how expensive mufflers are heavy as they have have thick walls, or multilayers sometimes, so the noise doesn't go into the car boot and resonate through the body. Grab a stock one off a big 6-cyl at the local wreckers and weld it on!

Well, its been running fine for a few weeks, down to Sydney for engineering and back. I'll ask the engineer if he wants his name mentioned, but I found him a great guy and he was OK with the overall car. Since then I've picked up a pair of new tyres and passed a sliding plate brake test here at the local Toyota dealer, so its just paperwork now. The idle still isn't right over the whole range, so I'll take a bit off the waxtat over the next few weeks. Its not heating up with short trips in Orange's winter temperatures, so I have a fine cold idle but it might be different in summer . It will get sorted eventually, and I'll add an idle-up circuit to cover the alternator drain when the headlights are on. I paint-stripped one of the factory alloy wheels, but haven't found a way to clean up the oxidation and staining that got under the clear coat. Then The Girl said she's like the 14x6 Cheviots on when these tyres run out, so we'll concentrate of refurbishing them instead. Always something to do...

Its not as hard as any other twin-cam engine swap. However, while on your P's just start to assemble the parts needed as the man who is not in a hurry always gets the best bargains. There are lists up on here of what you need, the major ones being the engine gearbox and cross-members, but you will also need fuel pumps, an exhaust, a cat muffler, radiators & fans, an air box, a COR relay box and a lot of planning. Get it listed out with an idea of the prices, then keep an eye out for a bargain. Check out 'the girls KE70' as my conversion will be one of the most recent, and go through the KE35/KE55 builds for what people did. There's no way to shortcut it unfortunately, you need it engineered and insured and that won't happen on your P's.

That will be interesting. The stock one is swaged into the disc that screws onto the tank, so you'll have to drill that out and enlarge it, then figure out how to seal the new line into the disc. All part of why I figured fitting the 8mm lines I had was just not worth it. Mine is running fine on stock lines and stock rad, I'm just waiting on the engineer to do the paperwork before its really legal. The final jobs will be to fit a higher temp fan switch, the one thing I can't find at the wrecker and the 90deg one sets the fan off all the time, and I'll keep plugging away on the idle until it idles at all temperatures. You'll love it when you're finally driving it!

Sure- They go in from the top so the main bearing end must fit up the bore.

Just push the clutch slave arm into the cylinder by hand. If it doesn't go in then its not set up corectly I reckon, as it shouldn't have the thrust pushed against the pressure plate. If that doesn't stop the noise then g'box input bearings are likely the cause. I wonder what a flogged pilot bearing sounds like, the little bearing the nose of the g'box rides in.. Where abouts does the clutch pick up?? Bottom of pedal travel? Middle? top?? Is that "up angle" starting high up, or ending high up? Is the pedal to m'cyl rod too long, or the m'cyl too small in diam?

Great trip! Pity you couldn't have pillioned out with a mate and both ridden back together!