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Western Revheads

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About Western Revheads

  • Birthday 06/20/1996

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  1. Okay so I'm a massive idiot, and I decided to maybe test the theory that perhaps the fuel pump and fuel gauge wires uses the same ground before doing all the testing stuff and it turns out that the tail-lights and the fuel pump/gauge all use the same ground, didn't think of it when I posted the for help. THE MORE YOU KNOW So next time check for grounding.
  2. hey everyone, so I've installed a new tacho instruments cluster into my ke70, it had the good'old quartz clock cluster, and everything works, but the fuel gauge, I don't remember if the old one worked (still have in just encase there is part failure), but I've taken out the rear tail-lights cause I'm doing rust repair, and I noticed that the fuel gauge wasn't moving and staying in the off position, when the car is running, all the other things in the cluster work cause Toyota just used a standard wiring loom for all KE70's. so the question is, does the fuel gauge wire run though the tail-lights wiring? not 100% sure. and I can't find a wiring diagram that says anything about it, so if anyone knows please let me know. I know that the loom in all together all the way to the back of the car where it splits of to the fuel pump and lights, and the lights split off the right light so does the fuel gauge work the same way. so is it a parts failure or a plug not being plugged in. I really don't want to take the cluster surround out again wiring loom split for lights (top plug) and fuel pump (bottom plug)
  3. yeah if you are looking at putting an auto in, then I guess just get the auto gearbox imported from japan, and/or go to a shop and get them to put a modern gearbox on and get it machined to fit.
  4. speaking of instrument clusters, does anyone or has anyone, had problems with the fuel gauge on there clusters not working?
  5. yeah when ever things like this happen on old cars, like the corollas, it usually ends up being the fuel system, not the ignition system, also i would suggest getting a new fuel tank asap, cause you don't want rust dirtying your fuel. if you can't get a new tank, clean it out there may still be rust in there but after most is gone get a big magnet and weld it to the outside of the tank away from the fuel pick up, so that if there is rust it works like a oil sump magnet. also get some engine cleaner and rust remover and mix it with the fuel, so that the fuel lines can get cleaned and so they don't get clogged up, it happens a lot more than you think, especially with car seen cars / sunday drivers, cause the fuel sits and sediments in the tank. so use you're fuel, modern fuel is designed and made to be used within 12 months and can damage a car if sitting in it too long
  6. solid cam just makes it go harder, better power and torque so you can see why, basically they allow for higher reving but can sound good or really shitty depending on setup also they don't work with every engine some other things i would maybe suggest in investing in is bike carbs, though the weber carbs you have are good, they might hold the engine back from a bit of power, bike carbs are built for high revs so they don't break as easy and depending on the ones you get can have your engine more efficient than those webers (which to be honest isnt that hard), plus they sound amazing, look up the fellas network on youtube for a video on their bike carbs, and install, (i recently bought matts off him and I can't wait to put them on my 4K)
  7. with 4K because its carby and has a manual choke, you won't really have much of a "normal" RPM depending on full choke/half choke/ open, also temp but mine can idle from 200-1000 rpm depending on choke openness
  8. omg, I feel so dumb right now, I was just afraid that if I used the diff or crossmember that I would brake them and ʞ©$ɟ shit up, thanks peps
  9. hey everyone, I've recently got a new trolley jack and I've never owed one before, and I was wondering if anyone could tell me where they position their trolley jack on their KE70?
  10. lets rule out a few things first, is the engine able to move past the stop spot if you move it manually, if so, then its probably a valve or interior part that could be snapped or bent or getting court, also check your starter motor, always good to change these to new when engines are out of a bay with no gearbox on them, could be that or electrical fault in the motor to battery and the motor is drawing to much from the battery and shorting out.
  11. yeah , I know I probably should have welded some new metal into the C pillar area, but to be honest, I only did it to get the car looking good to get a RWC, shhhhh, plus if I roll the car, the car crushing in the back corner is gonna be the least of my problems, the car has no safety features of any kind, no airbag, no collapse able steering column, doesn't even have the best crumple zones if any, being a large hood area with it mostly empty helps but not if there is a crash over 60kph. anyway, I did get the car to learn and experiment on, so if the bog in the C Pillar area cracks and falls out, then I'll replace it with some metal or fiberglass, as for the rear of the car, I'm going to do welding of new metal and brazing for the boot trim rubber area, and then fiberglass the gaps, just need to get the metal. can anyone recommend me a metal place or what kind of metal I should get and thickness? also I have a welder, but its just a cheap Super cheap auto branded one, haven't really welded before, I know how to weld but not really done it, I do know how to braze metal together and I've done that before. help me with recommendations please, I live in west melbourne BTW so please don't recommend metal places in NSW or Box hill ex..
  12. another update, same day as the last one above, I've started to attack the rear rust in the boot around the tail lights and the boot seal trim and the other areas of rust. I got my good mate Michael to help me out, I've known him since primary school so long ass time. anyway I started on the work by removing the tail lights and the rear bumper bar, easy thing to remove the bumper bar, it is held on by 4 bolts but mine were seized and I had to remove it the more difficult way of 8 bolts cause I didn't have an impact gun (I do now), then the lights decided to have rust on the bolts that held them in so it took me 30 minutes to get them out. then when Michael got there we started by using the wire brush drill attachments on the one electric drill I had, ( we have to but my Dad had taken the other one with him on a job that day) we got thinks back to bare metal, and no zinc or not rust coating was on the metal at all, or it was thin layer that we didn't see, as per usual Toyota Australia has done it again with shit metal prep on anti-rust coating back in the 1980s. after grinding a lot of stuff back we then put rust converter on the metal, most of the rust was around small spot weld areas as you can see. I forgot to wipe the rust converter with a coating of metho spirits before I packed up for the night and I got a small coat of surface rust on the chemical reactioned areas, but because the rust converter was still on the metal, all I had to do is lightly grind it back with the wire brush attachment, took me 2 minutes and it was nice and shinny again. after a lot of rust and rust converter, I realised that I had work for the next week and I needed to seal the car from any further rust so knowing where on the body needs work and that all of the rust that is left is not going to rust any further, I gave the car a can of white primmer. its not a big seal but it was only meant to seal it from the weather for a week. The rust that was there is now rust converted and all I have left to do is put metal in the areas that need it and do the body filler. so its soooooooo close to being done, I just need to get some thin metal sheeting to weld and braze into place. I also got some new wheels for the car as well the stock steal wheels are so much rusted that they are really only good for a spare wheel in the case of an emergency, or drift burners, but the ones I got where cheap and they look great on the car. they are aluminium wheels so they are light but they need a bit of a clean some new tyres and a really good polish.
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