Western Revheads

Okay so I'm a massive idiot, and I decided to maybe test the theory that perhaps the fuel pump and fuel gauge wires uses the same ground before doing all the testing stuff and it turns out that the tail-lights and the fuel pump/gauge all use the same ground, didn't think of it when I posted the for help. THE MORE YOU KNOW So next time check for grounding.

thanks man I'll try it after work on sunday

hey everyone, so I've installed a new tacho instruments cluster into my ke70, it had the good'old quartz clock cluster, and everything works, but the fuel gauge, I don't remember if the old one worked (still have in just encase there is part failure), but I've taken out the rear tail-lights cause I'm doing rust repair, and I noticed that the fuel gauge wasn't moving and staying in the off position, when the car is running, all the other things in the cluster work cause Toyota just used a standard wiring loom for all KE70's. so the question is, does the fuel gauge wire run though the tail-lights wiring? not 100% sure. and I can't find a wiring diagram that says anything about it, so if anyone knows please let me know. I know that the loom in all together all the way to the back of the car where it splits of to the fuel pump and lights, and the lights split off the right light so does the fuel gauge work the same way. so is it a parts failure or a plug not being plugged in. I really don't want to take the cluster surround out again wiring loom split for lights (top plug) and fuel pump (bottom plug)

yeah if you are looking at putting an auto in, then I guess just get the auto gearbox imported from japan, and/or go to a shop and get them to put a modern gearbox on and get it machined to fit.

speaking of instrument clusters, does anyone or has anyone, had problems with the fuel gauge on there clusters not working?

yeah when ever things like this happen on old cars, like the corollas, it usually ends up being the fuel system, not the ignition system, also i would suggest getting a new fuel tank asap, cause you don't want rust dirtying your fuel. if you can't get a new tank, clean it out there may still be rust in there but after most is gone get a big magnet and weld it to the outside of the tank away from the fuel pick up, so that if there is rust it works like a oil sump magnet. also get some engine cleaner and rust remover and mix it with the fuel, so that the fuel lines can get cleaned and so they don't get clogged up, it happens a lot more than you think, especially with car seen cars / sunday drivers, cause the fuel sits and sediments in the tank. so use you're fuel, modern fuel is designed and made to be used within 12 months and can damage a car if sitting in it too long

solid cam just makes it go harder, better power and torque so you can see why, basically they allow for higher reving but can sound good or really shitty depending on setup also they don't work with every engine some other things i would maybe suggest in investing in is bike carbs, though the weber carbs you have are good, they might hold the engine back from a bit of power, bike carbs are built for high revs so they don't break as easy and depending on the ones you get can have your engine more efficient than those webers (which to be honest isnt that hard), plus they sound amazing, look up the fellas network on youtube for a video on their bike carbs, and install, (i recently bought matts off him and I can't wait to put them on my 4K)

with 4K because its carby and has a manual choke, you won't really have much of a "normal" RPM depending on full choke/half choke/ open, also temp but mine can idle from 200-1000 rpm depending on choke openness

welcome mate, big aussie welcome

omg, I feel so dumb right now, I was just afraid that if I used the diff or crossmember that I would brake them and ʞ©$ɟ shit up, thanks peps

hey everyone, I've recently got a new trolley jack and I've never owed one before, and I was wondering if anyone could tell me where they position their trolley jack on their KE70?

welcome a big hello from Australia

lets rule out a few things first, is the engine able to move past the stop spot if you move it manually, if so, then its probably a valve or interior part that could be snapped or bent or getting court, also check your starter motor, always good to change these to new when engines are out of a bay with no gearbox on them, could be that or electrical fault in the motor to battery and the motor is drawing to much from the battery and shorting out.

yeah , I know I probably should have welded some new metal into the C pillar area, but to be honest, I only did it to get the car looking good to get a RWC, shhhhh, plus if I roll the car, the car crushing in the back corner is gonna be the least of my problems, the car has no safety features of any kind, no airbag, no collapse able steering column, doesn't even have the best crumple zones if any, being a large hood area with it mostly empty helps but not if there is a crash over 60kph. anyway, I did get the car to learn and experiment on, so if the bog in the C Pillar area cracks and falls out, then I'll replace it with some metal or fiberglass, as for the rear of the car, I'm going to do welding of new metal and brazing for the boot trim rubber area, and then fiberglass the gaps, just need to get the metal. can anyone recommend me a metal place or what kind of metal I should get and thickness? also I have a welder, but its just a cheap Super cheap auto branded one, haven't really welded before, I know how to weld but not really done it, I do know how to braze metal together and I've done that before. help me with recommendations please, I live in west melbourne BTW so please don't recommend metal places in NSW or Box hill ex..

another update, same day as the last one above, I've started to attack the rear rust in the boot around the tail lights and the boot seal trim and the other areas of rust. I got my good mate Michael to help me out, I've known him since primary school so long ass time. anyway I started on the work by removing the tail lights and the rear bumper bar, easy thing to remove the bumper bar, it is held on by 4 bolts but mine were seized and I had to remove it the more difficult way of 8 bolts cause I didn't have an impact gun (I do now), then the lights decided to have rust on the bolts that held them in so it took me 30 minutes to get them out. then when Michael got there we started by using the wire brush drill attachments on the one electric drill I had, ( we have to but my Dad had taken the other one with him on a job that day) we got thinks back to bare metal, and no zinc or not rust coating was on the metal at all, or it was thin layer that we didn't see, as per usual Toyota Australia has done it again with shit metal prep on anti-rust coating back in the 1980s. after grinding a lot of stuff back we then put rust converter on the metal, most of the rust was around small spot weld areas as you can see. I forgot to wipe the rust converter with a coating of metho spirits before I packed up for the night and I got a small coat of surface rust on the chemical reactioned areas, but because the rust converter was still on the metal, all I had to do is lightly grind it back with the wire brush attachment, took me 2 minutes and it was nice and shinny again. after a lot of rust and rust converter, I realised that I had work for the next week and I needed to seal the car from any further rust so knowing where on the body needs work and that all of the rust that is left is not going to rust any further, I gave the car a can of white primmer. its not a big seal but it was only meant to seal it from the weather for a week. The rust that was there is now rust converted and all I have left to do is put metal in the areas that need it and do the body filler. so its soooooooo close to being done, I just need to get some thin metal sheeting to weld and braze into place. I also got some new wheels for the car as well the stock steal wheels are so much rusted that they are really only good for a spare wheel in the case of an emergency, or drift burners, but the ones I got where cheap and they look great on the car. they are aluminium wheels so they are light but they need a bit of a clean some new tyres and a really good polish.

Hey everyone, big update, I'm doing a lot of stuff to the corolla atm, last month February 2017, I did some C pillar rust repair, as its my first time doing any major rust repair please don't judge me, I didn't cut out any metal that I could save with rust converter, because if I did cut it out I would have had a worse hole than I started with. I did some videos on it on my YouTube Channel, I'll link it at the bottom of the post. I didn't have to much knowledge going into it besides grind out thin weak metal and use rust converter to save the strong metal and paint the metal to seal it to stop it from rusting more, I forgot to paint it before I bogged it though so I hope it doesn't rust again. The rust that was there looked like it had been bogged up before by the previous owners friend or something cause it was shit as. I started by grinding the thing have and putting rust converter on it and let it dry before removing it with a rag dampened with metho. (thumbnail from my youtube video haha) then I covered it with body filler/bog, and sanded it smooth then once I got it smooth I taped off the windows and area and using primmer white, I built up a few layers (4 coats) waiting for it to dry each time, then diamond topcoat, (2 coats), then clear coat, car looks shinny now in that area only hahahaha. from start to finish it took me 2 days, to get it done, I started late each day because of work. If you want to watch how I COMPLETELY FAILED at it, I split it into 2 videos so people could just skip if they wanted to the end part 1 part 2

I got an AE86 passenger chair the other day for a massive $20, so cheap and in great condition too, anyway I swapped the OG seat which was torn, but still comfy btw, which tbh I would still use if it wasn't ripped and didn't smell like ass and human slim. But I swapped the seats, and it looks amazing, the seat itself is wider and sits a little lower, not as comfy, but its clean and looks good next to the bucket seat. I'm proud of it, so interior is done no more need to fix that, its all done. BTW I love the bucket seat, its way way way more comfy than the OG seat it maybe on static rails but its far enough back for me and all the people I know who will drive it. also if anyone is wondering if the KE70 stock seat rails fit the ae86 chair they don't without washers and drilling the rail fixing holes larger, bending the mounts on the seat to the left on the RHS and drilling holes in the rails for the seat to mount into. This was trial and error, but the AE86 chair is about half the weight of the KE70's chairs.

sweet guys thanks, good to know that its just moving ancillaries, awesome thanks :)

hey everyone, I was looking online and found a really good priced 4age 20v blacktop out of a ae111 corolla, and I was wondering, if the engine needs to be RWD converted from FWD, I know it sound like a dumb question but the few FWD engines that I've seen or even owned, have had completely different designs than a RWD engine. I was gonna put it into a KE70 so RWD awesome 4 door thats lite, but I heard that I need to swap crankshafts and stuff around. So the REAL question I guess is does it need to be converted and how do I go about doing that? thanks. *photo of engine from advert*

thanks ninja jesus for providing a parts source, I was thinking about doing this to my KE70 also until I found out about the price for all the parts,

try corolla spares in NSW australia the have doors galore there and lots of door seals they have a facebook page https://www.facebook.com/corolla.spares/

yeah it can be done but finding a full power steering rack then having the cross member and then having lcas from the ae86 and powersteering pump from an ae86 and then the power steering pulley that needs to be swapped over to the fan pulley that drives the radiator fan, (ae86 has electric fans or so I've been told all the ones I've seen anyway have that) and then getting electric fan then replacing the steering wheel shaft, (teeth on the end of the shaft don't fit the ae86 power steering rack) when its just easier to pump up your front tyres about 3 psi more and then have thinner tyres for less surface area so easier to turn. money vs Air (free)

yeah deffenantly a 4k motor, like altezzclub said keep it or keep the stuff that's swapable, like heads and dizzys and stuff, also if your looking for a replacement engine the 1981-84 corolla KE70 had the same engine 4kc and you could even get if you want the 4ac out of the ae71 which is a 1.6 L instead of the 4kc 1.3L so a little more power, also if you want to get some more power out of them replace the stock carby with bike carbs you can pick them up for a $100 to $300 depending on what brand. makes them sound amazing tbh way better than the stock sound, (more tough sporty sound) the fellas network videos will probably help here.If you do decide on going with an engine swap may I suggest either posting in the sales page in the forums or join the E chassis Australia page (on facebook just hit request to join and someone with add you) and just post a WTB post for an engine, you'll get like 20 responds within a day.

hahahaha yeah weight that I need for registration and RWC hahahaha

I've just relized that I've never really mentioned how much rust was in the car, only body work rust,