altezzaclub

Sorry, no plug & play for you... The 5K is a great idea, new dizzy all throughout, but the advance curve is a dog & kills any performance you had. It will need a timing re-curve as I wrote about in The Girls KE70, either do it yourself or send to Melb. I love Banjo's idea of a programmable electronic system, on my long list of things to do one day...

Those are two very different cams. The 270-280deg (advertised) are usually mild for general driving. I use a Crow 276deg & it has a grumpy idle but drives just as smoothly as a stock cam except it has a tendency to surge on over-run at low speed. It just goes quicker than stock all through the range. The Tighe 104 is very similar. It will be easy to pull off in traffic, go hard up to 5500 or 6000, then start to run out of breath. For a town car its ideal, I use twin SU carbs and a 4.3 diff. You could easily pick any Tighe cam up to the 424 and drive them in a daily. The cams over 280deg suit an open-road car where you're not starting in traffic a lot. However Auckland's 873 has durations over 288deg, so it won't have much bottom end. Just think of how much in a piston/crank rotation those valves are actually closed for. The inlet valve will be opening while the exhaust is still open & staying open while the piston goes all the way to the bottom, and then comes up another 100degrees... so it only closes for the last 80degrees and from that is has to get enough compression to run smoothly. So at low revs it will push the fuel/air mix back out the carb, which is why they run so badly down low. The Auckland #12 cam is closer to the Tighe. Pay attention to the 50thou duration, that tells you how fast it opens. Some cams open slowly so they have a long duration, but you get bugger-all flow at small openings. A large valve lift is generally good, although it gives the valve springs a hard time, and their timing is crucial when running a skimmed head as there is a greater chance of a valve touching a piston. Don't forget to get the followers re-surfaced at the same time so the new cam surface has a new follower surface to wear in to. What sort of compression ratio are you aiming at?? Most ground cams like 10:1 or over. A stock comp ratio just won't get the best out of the cam. No matter which you pick, tuning the DCOE will make or break it. A choke that is too large will make it a coughing dying dog in traffic, so unless you're moving all the time make sure you err on the side of smaller chokes rather than larger, and make sure the jets work well down low. If you can get 27mm chokes grab them. I will always give away top end power for drivability unless its in a rally car.

The archilles heel of the FWD... although they seem to last longer than the tapered bearings of RWD. That's a nice improvement with the ST204 brakes, it would be easy to machine the rotor out to 55mm. Are you going to space it outwards to even the running within the caliper in and outwards?

"his point suggests u may not be 100% on the function of the pipe to the air cleaner. " Fair enough- That galv airbox I had made always has a little oil & condensation water in the bottom seam, so vapour on mine does go from the tappet cover back to the air cleaner. I figured all of the PCV valves worked like that, but either mine is crook or it doesn't suck enough at idle to keep the crankcase at negative presure. The 4AGEs don't have a PCV valve at all. There is a fixed port into the inlet manifold with a hose from the tappet cover and that's all. I'm looking forward to making a dry-sump setup for the rally car, then we have some serious vacuum on the crankcase. That one I will dyno for the difference!

"ok at idle, the atd pcv valve doesnt completely shut, it is a restricted leak at this point but still pulls to create negative pressure required in the crankcase." I thought they closed up as the high inlet vacuum at idle sucked the valve closed against the spring. So at idle you still shouldn't have blowby going into the air cleaner through the vent pipe. In deceleration it should be the similar, high inlet vacuum the same as idle, small amounts of blowby being produced, so it should suck the crankcase clean if its a restricted leak. Either way, I'm sure the difference won't show up on a dyno!

You don't need to run a PCV valve at all, just take gases from the tappet cover to the air filter. That allows combustion gases to escape out of the sump and get burnt. There is no reason to have the motor venting to atmosphere in that case, you block the second tappet cover vent. If you want to run a PCV to actually suck gases out when you accelerate, then you need the second vent to allow air to flow in both directions via the air cleaner. Under acceleration the PCV is open and air flows from the air filter into the motor to replace the gases being sucked into the inlet manifold by the PCV line. When your idling and the inlet vacuum is high then the PCV valve is sucked shut and air flows the opposite way in the other vent, dirty gases go from the motor to the air cleaner. This is just like not having a PCV at all, but at idle there is not much blowby. Under acceleration you have maximum blowby and the PCV system is designed to catch that. Jeremy that turbo diagram could do with more labels, I don't know if their PCV valve port is actually screwed into the inlet manifold, as that wouldn't work. Without a vacuum in the inlet manifold you can't suck the gases out of the motor, and I assume you don't get a vacuum in the inlet with a turbo.

I replaced the 4K clutch a few years back & one day it developed a bad shudder. Pulling it out showed that one of the thin spring-steel fingers had broken and moved sideways to sit jammed up on the next finger by the next rivet. This gave a bulge in the plate. So I went to Brake & Clutch locally & they sold me an Exedy kit, the only type available. It ran for a month or two and then slipped! I rigged a weight system on a drill press to see how many Kg it took to push in the pressure plate & found the new one only had 2/3 the pressure of the old. Brake & Clutch were not interested, and I fitted the old pressure plate to the new clutch plate... Still going strong... So some new stuff is not all that good, don't throw out the old clutch.

Drill & tap the Lynx manifold, I did it when I moved the brake booster inlet so I could fit the extractors on. That gives you brake booster vac, and as you said I T-pieced the PCV line into that so they both had full vac. Later I added a separate vac line for the PCV. The second tappet cover line goes to the inside of the air filter so it draws filtered air into the engine as the PCV draws dirty air out. When you're idling the dirty air goes into the air filter as the PCV is shut then. You could just catch tank the breathers, but if you don't have the Lynx vac inlet for the brake booster you'll have to drill it anyway. PM me if you'd like to borrow the drill & tap for that fitting. You can see where I blocked off the hole that was in the Lynx when I bought it, and re-located it to the edge. The PCV now goes in the middle of the Lynx manifold.

Yeah, the tube is pressed lightly onto the end washer, which is screwed on the end of the inner shaft. The tube is clamped into the strut top & bottom, so it can't pop off. I'm heading up in a couple of hours, be at the Woolshed until the 18th or so. Catch up if you're coming down that way.

Yep, that's the 1/2mm coat of paint they machine off.. A file would do it, its a meaningless outer tube of steel! There are pictures of it here https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/64027-how-not-to-build-a-rally-car/?page=8

For RA40s, that Bilstein outside tube just needs a light file, an absolutely smallest possible skim with a lathe to take the paint off. Mind you, I wonder how accurate their tube diameter is, maybe it depends on the particular strut off the production line. The gland nut they do make specially for this job. How much are the XT tubes too small by? I don't think we even sent the struts off for the second set of Bilsteins, I can ask Steve..

hmmm... going tarmac rallying Rob?? I can't see that your current system has anything wrong with it for gravel, its not that you can put much braking power through the gravel. We use RA40 struts & brakes, they lock up time and time again on gravel. We have the Sumitomo 4-pots but Steve reckons the caliper itself is too heavy. I like my Diahatsu ventilated disc with a swinging caliper, light, simple, and works fine, even on stock 13" rims. If we get problems with the RA40 brakes I'll try the same, some light ventilated system. RA65 strut length is wrong, I can't remember about the camber of the stub axle, Steve will know.

I think I usually put it in 5th with the handbrake on and kick the breaker bar as it hangs down.. been a while since I had to. 18V rattle guns are finding more & more uses at the Woolshed, but you never do anything up with them!

ooo.. looks like a nice clean tidy new workshop!

Banjo, you are the God of ignition systems! I just had to go & measure of course.. The Girls Beast with the 4AGE has primary 0.6ohm & secondary 14Kohm, coil came with the motor. The Hoonicorn with the 4K & electronic dizzy has the original coil in, primary 1.4ohm & secondary 7.2Kohm. Still runs the ballast too. They both run fine as far as I can tell, and hopefully will last a long time! -------------------- You're right Jeremy, 14Kohm. I've just come back & edited it.

Pretty impressive improvement, photo 2 and photo 4. Must have been exciting in photo 2 !

The fuel pump arm has to ride above the cam lobe, so it goes into the hole aiming upwards and you roll the pump horizontal to get it over the studs. I can't think of anything else that might stop it.

LOVELY looking cars, a great pair! Webers DCOEs are easy to tune. Once you have it running happily you need to decide if you have the right jets, not too rich or too lean through the rev range. If you're happy with the jetting then its only a matter of balancing the two units and the four idle volumes. That's the old 'plastic tube in the ear' system or a flow-meter to make sure each throat idles at the same flow. Adjust the two throats of each carb to get each pair the same, then adjust the interconnecting link to get both carbs the same.

It looks like that will keep you busy over the summer... Do you reckon it has all the fittings and bits for a full reassemble?

Steve said he ran into you guys there.. Great to see it back in action! Is the car any different this time??

Soft mounts are tricky. They have to be tight enough to hold pressure on the rubber O-rings & seal, but loose enough to allow the engine vibrations to be absorbed. Hence the Thackery washers. The 20mm odd thick rubber ones are great, but the little thin one-piece O-ring types just fall apart after a year or two. If you don't have any there's a chance of the fuel in the bowl becoming a foam at certain revs, but that may never happen.

""it still dies coming up to intersections in neutral. Also bogs a bit when you go to take off, "" Lean probably, idle circuit not up to it. Do the tune, and see if idle speed/mixture helps. Tappet gaps, plug gap, points gap, timing.. if you've done it all then its a distinct problem to chase.

The good KE70 one is here, very little will be different. https://www.dropbox.com/s/s0xs2udvrv9qfl2/downloadfile.jpg?dl=0

No common faulty wiring areas that I know of.. Do you have a wiring diagram for it? You should be able to trace the circuits back to a common point on a diagram, and as you do note the colours and see if they agree with the car itself. Maybe someone has had a play with it and assembled it wrong, or maybe something has broken. Most common problems involves bad earths, so grab a $10 multimeter and see what resistance you get from bulb to body in each case. Let us know what happens and we can go into more detail.

So that's been the last 4days watching the world's top drivers out in the dirt. I don't usually take photos, but shot a few to show that we were there.. This was a fast left-hander in the first dry days- JML, "Luckless Latvala" Mikkelsen and Tanak.. well, probably, I can't remember the order I took the photos in! Sunday it poured down in the morning and we luckily flew in to where Steve and his mates were camping in the bush. This meant there was a little tent to stand under as the drivers learned about clay roads in the wet. It didn't slow the top guys as much as the slower ones, but all the WRC cars had 'incidents' Steve ran into TRDKE70 & the crew in the KE70, they've managed to build another one and go rallying before we're even halfway built! Back to Orange now, back up in a couple of weeks and into it!