altezzaclub

Another trip up a couple of weeks later and into it! We started on the steel scrap pile- and cleared at least the corner to the right in the photo- Then more distractions. A flight to Coffs Harbour last Thursday, luckily we squeezed through between cloud on the mountain-tops and fog in the valleys- ..and we joined all the Jetrangers, Hughes, Eurocopters and other multi-million dollar choppers flying works teams supporters around. I did have to learn how an ipad works & how to navigte with GPS to find a hole in the forest to drop into, not all pads were nice open fields like this one.

Sounds like a tinny plate vibrating somewhere, some cover on the exhaust or around the engine. Cable clutch?? Cable not rubbing on something as the motor tilts when you accelerate??

This is not easy! ..and it needs to be tested to make sure it does earth back to the body well or you get false negatives. Everything I tried when working in the boot the other day was painted, and the tail light bolts didn't earth to the body reliably. Gave me quite a surprise, but because they are pulling on the rubber seal and they move and vibrate enough to get dirt under them its to be expected

Sometimes.. How's the red light performance? The resistor on the tank sensor might be pretty crappy, I've seen some horrible ones. Its easy to get out, just a handful of phillips screws in the boot and it lifts right out. Clean it up and have a look at it. The variable resistor arm can be very carefully re-bent to make a better connection. Failing that, there's a chance of a bad wiring connection at the plug you'll have to pull off, and after that you're left with the wiring at the gauge end. Mine never shows full, and the red light comes on before it reaches "E" so its range is small, but it is reliably constant.

Look up oldskewltoy and PM him for ideas, he does porting as a business, some amazing work! Generally, buy the gasket you're going to use, measure that and the inlet manifold, and make all three diameters the same. Having an inlet manifold diameter smaller than an inlet port is no problem, that lip reduces the reversion back up the carb, but it pays to have a smooth tunnel all the way to the valve. You can see the gasket I used here- https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/ The port size depends on the cam and the revs you will use, overall larger ports flow slowly at low-medium revs and don't fill cylinders very well. I have them larger at the gasket than the valve because the velocity of the air increases as the diameter narrows so it retains inertia going past the valve. Make sure the casting around the back of the seat is smooth and continuous with the seat, and the same as the seat merges into the combustion chamber. The inlet is the important one, the exhaust gets pumped out. The downdraught carb is a pain if you're using that, the air has to turn that 90deg bend under the carb. All you can do is smooth any sharp edges & corners from machining the casting in the factory. A single Weber DCOE makes a much better job of it.

That's a pretty small budget, unless you're talking motor only. You'll need a hydraulic clutch setup & pedal box, crossmember sortout, beefy gearbox, new driveshaft, new diff... Nothing in there will handle much horsepower. We recently priced a 4AGE conversion & suspension/brakes upgrades, came to $10,000 with a few grand in there for labour. That's the simplest, as all the parts come stock from Toyota.

Now we're down to 'what sort of lumpy'? A misfire in an otherwise smooth idle?? A constantly up and down like hot cams do? Did the mechanic have any ideas? Too much advance will make it rougher than too much retard, but these are pretty forgiving motors and its probably not that far out. You could try knocking a few degrees of advance off. How does it drive?? Perky and keen from low down? Too much retard makes it sluggish, too much advance makes it difficult to get moving initially. How many turns out is the idle mixture screw?? These problems are usually solved by adding 4AGE..

Still at the wreckers in Orange.. Liable to be crushed at any time tho'....

As I understand it, this 'coolant' stuff used to be called anti-freeze, it depresses the freezing point. That's because it lowers the freezing point in snowy places like Orange, and no-one gave a shit about boiling-point elevation. They tossed in some nitrite to act as a corrosion inhibitor and everyone started using it instead of just those living in the snow. If your motor won't stay cool on water, then you have problems. It shouldn't go above 100deg, so you should never need to rely on the glycol to give you an extra 10deg to boiing point. The pressurising of the sytem already pushes the boiling point up. I love the engineers arguing in the comments about the 'myths of the cooling system'! They're such engineers! Women could be stripping their clothes off in front of them and they'd still be arguing over which engineering equation to use! Then some guy comes in and says "I did this and it worked!"

Idle is when the fuel pump is running slowest and has a harder job pumping fuel... You might as well start on the journey you need to take and give it a tune-up. Take the plugs out and check they have the right gap & all are firing to the same colour. Turn the engine with a spanner on the crank & check the points gap, then the timing. A timing light is really handy, but if you watch the rotor turning as you turn the motor with a spanner you will see the points open as the dizzy shaft shoulder pushes on the rubbibg block. For #1 cyl this is when the crank pulley timing mark is about 10deg before TDC. You can set the pulley to 10deg, then loosen the dizzy, turn on the ignition and turn the dizzy around that point of opening the gap and it will spark. Tighten the dizzy at that point. A timing light is much easier. Check the tappets while the plugs are out & you have the spanner on the crank. That only leaves the fuel system, so warm the motor up and re-set the idle mixture & the idle speed. If that doesn't fix it, then there is something wrong, as distinct from something being out of adjustment. Let us know how you go, we can start chasing problems then. Is it the stock 4K carb on there??

'connectors image map'.. Haha! how old are those?? 1990s on?? Year 2000 on?? They don't exist for old cars. Anyway, the best quality KE70 wiring diagram that Banjo mentioned is here- https://www.dropbox.com/s/s0xs2udvrv9qfl2/downloadfile.jpg?dl=0 The wiring colours are there, and the ojects they wire to, so it should identify any unknowns you have. It looks an enormouse job that you have there.

That's not good.. Either the box is not working, or the motor isn't developing any power. You need a good strong idle setup to get the car moving, it will take the first 1500-2000rpm before the idle circuit hands over to the main circuit. What happens if you have your foot down when you put it into drive??

I wouldn't, but try it and look for wear after going around corners and hitting a few potholes.. There is enough flex in the rim and the bearings to take up that gap. How about spacers?

So true!! If you can use it as a daily, get it registered and warm up the K motor while you do the suspension. Then chase motor, g'box & diff in a couple of years while you drive it. If you won't be using it as a daily, do the same but use it for gymkhanas or sprints or any sort of trackwork you can find. A decent DCOE Weber, extractors & a cam can all be sold on afterwards, and if Tommy can pull 120bhp out of one you can too.

Wow! I've never seen a KE70 with power steering over here. They're so light in the steering I suppose Toyota didn't offer it. How many bhp will you save it you take it out?? ..and are the steering arms shorter than a manual's, as they are on many cars??

The budget better be $10,000 or you will be disappointed! On a 5hour drive Steve & I worked out what it is going to cost a mate of his to have us build a weekend drifter KE70 for him. 4AGE, T50, Tseries diff, OS Geiken LS, suspension, shocks, brakes... a drive in-drive out package if he bought us an AE71. There's about $3000 in labour in there, which you'll probably need unless you've done engine swaps before, the rest is buying parts. Hunt down "How to do an engine conversion" on here and have a read. I haven't got it bookmarked. He did buy a RWD 4AGE for $1500 over the weekend, so $8500 to go, and an AE71 for about the same price. Being an AE71 means he gets the hydraulic clutch, the pedal box, the crossmember and the T50 gearbox, and some of that you will need to buy on top of the parts in the price list. No tyres or rims in there either...

A labour of love! As you must have seen on here, we have different headlights to those. It looks like you have power steering. Do you have a steering box or rack & pinion?? Is it a 4K motor??

haha! Bilsteins, snow tyres and a big rear wing.. then over the border to Finland! You know you want to!

Well, another 10day trip up there, full on busy but no damm rally car building! It started with a mate of Steve's changing the head gasket on his Cressida and not having it idle afterwards. I figured the stepper motor must be crook, but I'd never seen one before... Anyway, we stripped it to bits & the water from the blown HG had seized up one tiny ball bearing, so some careful lube had it running just fine. That meant Matty was a volunteer for cleaning the Landy! I've been trying to sneak some work in on the Landrover spraymobile that desperately needs suspension and steering upgrades, so Matty waterblasted it clear of 50years of grease and dirt while Richo & I pulled the 200B out of the donor Datsun. The Landy hauled the shell back to the paddock (anyone want it??) and then the motor went into the orange 200B wagon. Steve & I finished cleaning up the car trailer we've used for a few years now and that is ready for sale now (anyone want THAT?? Around $2k) We headed up to Brissie for a day trip buying a new lightweight 'KE70 only' tilter and tried it on another mates KE70 on the way home. That was because they headed for Sydney the next day to buy an AE71 for Ronnie, and a 4AGE as well on the same trip! The trailer went just great, tows well and is lighter than the old one, but we can't haul anything over a ton on it. Meanwhile we'd been off getting yet another scarifier as the big one we bought last time needs too much work. That ones a seed drill actually, and this one is simpler. Steve's little bro Richo & I spent a few days welding and engineering it generally, and hopefully with new tyres it will be out there in a paddock cutting grooves for crop sowing later this week. That only left a detail on the caravan.. Steve bought a gas shower and was all excited, until I looked in the water tanks... The Woolshed has sunk over the 50 or more years, and the tanks are on a concrete slab that hasn't, so the gutters are lower than the top of the tank. On one tank we chiseled out the concrete liner for a space, then cut down the steel wall to lower the 'downpipe' below the tank top. That's being held down by the length of rusty steel pipe, you can see the other little downpipe aiming upwards on the second tank. That left only one problem Steve had with hanging up his washing... Anyway... The Girl's 'Beast' is running beautifully and a joy to drive! LoL, she can't have it back! Maybe rallying next trip.. Oh, hang on.. WRC Coffs harbour!!!

It does to the tappet gap... Can you check that one and get it down to the correct gap?? Any slop in the rocker pivot on the rocker shaft. The rocker face at the tappet gap will wear to suit the valve top, so you will get a cut-out forming on the rocker face. The feeler gauge will bridge that gap, so although you measure 8thou, the gap to the valve stem might be 12thou. In the past we've used a wire of the right diameter, or set them on the cam timing with a protractor. .. or set it down a few thou and see if it shuts up! Failing that, maybe its something else entirely. Can you isolate it with a screwdriver on your ear?

I had a T-series yoke welded onto the KE70 shaft by a driveshaft shop & it vibrated. I took it back a couple of times and he even showed me it on the machine being balanced. After a year or two I was in Melb and gave it to Knox driveshafts, who said it was a some thou eccentric. In the end they cut it off and re-made it. So yours may not be as good as it should be, but in a way that is difficult to measure with a felt-tip pen! Another trick as per Rebuilder's is to put a circlip around the driveshaft at the rear end and spend ages driving around seeing how bad the vibration is. Rotate the circlip 90deg each time and move it along the shaft. Sometimes it will get worse, and sometimes better. You might minimise it that way. Possibly the pinion bearings are bad enough to vibrate, or the gearbox output bush, but I doubt it.

Sure, I'll check one out tomorrow..

I use them, but as typical I've done a porting job, raised the compression, fitted a ground cam & extractors. Definately its faster and uses less fuel, and the SUs are very tuneable. They come off a 1L Austin Healey Sprite or a 1L Mini Cooper, amongst others. They won't bog down, you can tune that out of them, but I don't know if they are any better than the Asian. Give it a go and see.

"The numbers without the W are all tested at 210° F or 100° C which is considered an approximation of engine operating temperature. In other words, a SAE 30 motor oil is the same viscosity as a 10w-30 or 5W-30 at 210° (100° C). The difference is when the viscosity is tested at a much colder temperature." So the oil cooler shouldn't help. You have SAE50 at idle when at hot temp, and you can't improve on that unless you can find 20W-60. How about a new oil pump instead? Can you strip yours and refurbish it? Not much you can do about the edges of the impellor, but if the endplate is groved you can grind that back smooth. Pretty desperate stuff! Better with new bearings on the worn crank, I did that on the Girls KE70 and it shut the knock up.

Start with Ian Carpenter at Kreative Enterprises in Windsor, he did mine & I found him very helpful.