Boosted

Late to the party, sorry to hear about the unfortunate ending and parting of ways. Surprised you weren't aware of the padding, it's been required for the last 3 years or more, for CAMS/MA events at least. Part 11 of Schedule J

In WA they've figured out there's a risk of dehydration and sunburn if you're standing outside holding the Lollipop. So the lollipop person sits in the aircon cab of the cruiser and presses a remote button to switch the sign back and forth .... Progress !

Spring wouldn't hit, I'm just not a fan of those type of mounts as you can't effect a camber change without also affecting caster. I'd also resolved to keep the camber as stock, any additional camber pulls away contact patch, which on a front wheel drive, doesn't just affect your braking, but also takes away drive patch. The loss of braking on a RWD car is offset by the potential gains, but 0.75-1º is about all you want to run on a FWD and the AE92 has that standard. The only thing left to change then is castor and my experience with castor has always been more is better, so I looked at how far I could move the top of the mount, left some room for the weld around it and then went the maximum distance. As it stands I could of crept a little more as my Brother's TIG welds were smaller/neater than the MIG welding I was originally planning. Still, with the offset I think that now gives me nearly 4º of castor, plus I'm running the Nolathane Castor offset bushes in the lower control arm, which has the effect of pushing the arm/wheel forward and adding castor as well. The car handles pretty well on the short, sharp twisty stuff that I typically see on a Khanacross, but when it comes to the Autocross I'm getting OK turn in with a mid corner understeer/push that's affecting my corner exit. I'm also seeing a fair bit of wear on the outside edge of the tyre. Camber would fix the outside edge tyre wear, but at the expense of braking/drive. Castor effectively camber's up the wheel only as you're turning, which is exactly when you need it the most. There are potential negatives with running excessive castor as well, but power steering solves some of them and the rest tend to sort themselves out in the practical world.

Alright, so I'd mostly been doing what I said and just trying to wear the thing out. Couple of small issues, busted gearbox mount and things like that, otherwise had been enjoying just taking it out, throwing some spanners at it when I got home and then taking it out again. Guess that can only last so long though .... Everything seemed like it happened in slow motion, felt like I was heading for that tree for 3 minutes, but the video shows the real time it took. You can hear the tyre on the guard right after the bump, so that along with the half turn of lock that did nothing as I headed for the tree, leads me to believe that this happened before I got to the tree and possibly even before the bump and I just hadn't realised. I seriously expected the front of the car to be destroyed, fortunately the tree was dead and mostly just disintegrated on impact. The front bumper developed some big cracks, but I'd already bounced it off some tyres at an autocross, so wasn't that devo about that. The bumper brackets had copped a hiding as well, so replaced the left one. There was a small dent in the front of the bonnet, but it's so small I'm not doing anything about that. Unfortunately part of the tree fell down on the rear spoiler and got not just the spoiler, but the hatch itself. Again, not bad enough to be too concerned about, so going to get the fibreglass fixed by a friend, a dash of paint and that will be it. http://s1156.photobucket.com/user/angrygnome79/media/Corolla%20Mk2/20150614_191512_zps9bygh73l.jpg.html?sort=3&o=6 So the major bit to sort out was the strut top itself, which wasn't exactly repairable; http://s1156.photobucket.com/user/angrygnome79/media/Corolla%20Mk2/20150614_191257_zpsz3x1fqce.jpg.html?sort=3&o=7 I'd seen some minor cracks developing in the rubber, but hadn't figured on this sort of catastrophic failure, thought I'd get longer out of it. Crazy thing is, didn't break apart where I saw the cracks. Had a look in stock and didn't seem to have another good strut top, they all showed suspect signs that I was game to put back into the car. Never researched the price of the new ones, figured they'd be ex-japan, but perhaps there's an aftermarket version. Either way, I figured they'd be exxy and there was the option to improve things and given the recent (and now timely) purchase of a lathe it seemed a good idea to go custom. There are versions from XYZ and the such that you can buy and just bolt in, but I didn't want to mess around with caster angles and camber angles for each wheel alignment. And I already new the camber/caster was pretty close to the same on each side from a previous wheel alignment, though maybe the hit to the left hand control arm might have changed that, anyway I decided to go with a fixed design. I didn't want to increase the camber, after discussing with my mechanic mate and remembering back to pics of the FWD Honda competing in the local ARC round, camber seemed unecessary, even detrimental, so I just tried to dial in as much caster as I could. The keener eyes may notice the shock absorber shaft doesn't stick thru the nut, but I've actually stepped the nut, so the thread is down inside the uniball, I've got more than a nuts length of thread in there. The reason it's jacked up so high is to try and get as much of the shock absorber travel as possible. The standard arrangement does that by having a pressed metal spring seat and the 'turning' bearing bonded into the middle of the flexible rubber. Because I now had a spherical and needed to fit the 'turning' bearing in the spring hat underneath, I basically ran out of space for everything. In the end I've compromised on losing less than 5mm of suspension travel. If I had access to a milling machine, I would have turned the top nut and then milled a hex into it. As it was I was stuck by hex bar sizes and to fit over the spherical I needed at least 24mm, so 1" it was. Thinking about it now, I guess I could have done it with a smaller hex and sleeves and what have you, but this works and was a fun little project to turn out on the new lathe. Unfortunately work and other comittments have got in the way, so I've already missed at least one event, about to miss the next event and from there I think there's only one left for the year, so bit disappointing, but that's the way the cookie crumbles I guess.

Quota free, but not Free Netflix. I've also heard that because of FOX owning the license in australia, there's a bunch of shows that you won't get on Netflix because of that. If you can find a page that shows what's on Netflix, let me know, I looked and couldn't find it. WRC hasn't been shown on Australian TV for ages, that's about when I gave up on TV.

I thought clause 2.6 (which references 2.5) of CAMS Schedule J, meant that you couldn't make the front leg a 3D object. At least that's how some rollcage fabricators over here have viewed it. Or were you not going to compete in CAMS events anyway ?

Don't know about an 82, but on a 92 it's all 'stock' mounts that hold it in. E58 isn't a great swap unless you're looking for strength anyway. Heavy and final drive ratio is taller than standard.

Not sure, like I said I couldn't get my kit to fit the damn thing. Hard pipes to fuel filter and long bolts into the fuel rail. Easiest was looking like under the floor where the flex lines come from over the top of the tank and join the steel lines running under the floor. But you'd need the adaptors and test gear still. Fuel pump doesn't really fit with the symptoms to my mind. Perhaps that main ECU relay is failing and not letting enough juice thru to injector drives and all that fruit ? Really grasping at straws though

How warm does it get with each start ? Just spit balling, but perhaps the computers seeing temp and pulling out the cold start enrichment for subsequent restarts, which is covering bad injectors, fuel rail pressure or fuel pump ? Either way, I'd recommended against the cheap fuel testing kits on ebay. Gauge and everything looks good, but not a useful damn connections amongst the 70 pieces that came with it.

Tyre size ? gearbox ratio's ? How modified is the motor ?

Just to throw an option. My 4AGZE was messing around, wouldn't accept throttle and if it wasn't warm, wouldn't even start. Fortunately it did it while it was idling, sat there and idled happy as larry, but wouldn't take any sort of throttle. Turned out to be a toasted ECU. But I did have a CEL on and jumpering the diagnostics plugs I couldn't get the CEL to blink or anything.

Symptoms are a bit odd, but definitely worth checking the TPS. They have a setting as Toyota do this weird thing where it switches between an 'idle' map and a 'running' map, which is set by the position of the throttle.I forget the procedure, but I found it easy enough with google the first time. Usually responsible for a stumble on acceleration, but perhaps if it think's at idle it should be using the 'running' mapping, might explain the over fuelling. Usually if you've got spark and fuel happening at more or less the right time it will run and you can sort it from there, but EFI with all these weird sensors does complicate things.

Fuel pump only runs with live ignition. At least on mine if you just turn the key on, the fuel pump won't run. Runs while cranking though.

Maybe it's just the dodgy wiring on my AE92, but there's a plug in the signal wire that runs down to the starter motor. If you disconnect that and turn the key, fuel pump runs but it doesn't crank. I do this often for mine as the starter motor's a bit dodge, will fire first time with fuel there, but without it, let go of the key and the starter solenoid might not want to engage next time, problem goes away once it's warm, but I digress. With the key cranked you can hear the fuel pump running (though my car is gutted), so should be able to rule that out. Just thinking on mine there's a 'circuit opening relay' that opens power to the ECU. Pretty sure it will crank even without this relay working, but as it doesn't fire up the ECU, it won't run. Mate has done the battery lead backwards trick, not many fuses on an old escort so he actually smoked the cable to the starter motor and alternator. Fuses should have caught it on yours and now that you have dashlights it should be good, but may just pay to check those main cables, make sure nothing has melted thru.

Depends on what tools you have available. The bearings come off the spindle easy enough, but to change the shell out of the hub requires a punch and a big hammer. Installing them is a bit of the same, but with a lot more precision as it is possible to deform the bearing shell with trying to punch it in. And if you slip and score damage the surface of the shell it won't last very long. Best done with a workshop press. But if you know someone with the tools, it's not that hard, I'm sure there's YouTube videos describing it all.