artinvest

Hey All, In the process of putting a turbo on my 5k and was wondering if anyone can post a picture (or write a response) of how they have connected the oil return pipe to the engine/sump. I am making a manifold up and placing the turbo where the carby currently sits and then the carby will sit in front of it facing the front of the car. The issue I have is because of the 5k engine slant in the car (ke10) the oil sits higher in the sump on the side that my turbo is on. Cheers Shane

As those of you with the early rolla's know, trying to find new parts that actually fit for the steering (pittman, tie rods, idler and so on) is near impossible. I have heard that you can have new joints injected into the old parts, has anyone else heard of or had this done??

I thought I would start a fun thread on the silly over the top things people do for their Rolla's. Times when you have put the old Rolla ahead of the misses and or family. For Me: I knew I had crossed the line, not when I came to the realisation that I could have bought a brand new corolla from the caryard for the money I have spent on my restoration but when I had a painting done of my car ( I own a company that supplies fine art and investment art to auctionhouses and galleries throughout Australia so thought what the hell). I decided to get Jasper Knight (One of Australias most famous contemporary artists) to do a painting of the car so that I can hang it in my house - Ironically the painting is worth almost as much as the car and to add salt to the wound I have already chosen the spot for the painting to hang and it involves pulling down my wedding photo.

Hey Buddy, Recently went through the whole carby thing when replacing my 5k in my ke10, my 5k is mildly worked with a 40thou bore, ported, balanced, new internals everywhere. Accepting that the carby can make or break my engine performance (and after spending a small fortune on the engine already) I decided to tracked down and talk to a few k series engine racers who build pretty tough k engines, I was advised from the start to go with the DCOE40, they recommended that I go for the single as a double is just massive overkill and in fact they were running single carbs in their race engines. I ended up getting hold of a fantastic reconditioned DCOE40 with manifold from recarb for around $700 and would recomend them everyday - the carby was in sensational looking and working condition (you can also get from them a reproduction weber style DCOE40 if that sort of thing floats your boat). After much discussion and going through the dyno reports of other similar engines we decided on the following for my carb Venturi = 30mm Mains = 120 Air = 200 Emulsion = F15 Pump = 40 Everyone you speak to will have a different opinion about sizes and reality is that nobody is really wrong as every engine is different and every driver likes a different feel, however these sizes worked really well for my little beast with absolutely no flat spots and great acceleration.

Thanks for the info, I did replace all of my rubbers last year but the boot one was a real dodgy fit so got rid of it. I will go check out clark rubber. Cheers Shane

Hey Mate Just went through a bit of a diff issue with my 1967 ke10 as I had previously replaced the diff which I bought off a friends friend and now needed the brake cylinders redone. Anyhow ends up the diff on my ke10 is from a datsun 120y, it is known as a borg warner 68 (bw68). It is pretty well a straight bolt on and as I have just found out you can pretty well bolt on most of your current ke10 brakes - also has the 4x110 pcd. The datsun 120y was delivered to the USA. As a side note some early ke10's were actually delivered with the BW68 diff. Hope this helps

Does anyone know who makes a decent rubber boot seal for a 67 ke10?

Thanks for the reply mate, The sizes that I have been suggested by recarb Australia are; Venturi - 30mm Mains - 120 Air - 200 Emulsion - F15 Pump - 40

I have just replaced the 5K engine in my car. The new engine is a 5K also and has been bored out 40thou and has had some mild cam work done, I have a set of extractors and the new engine has been fully balanced and ready to go - all except my current carby is crap. I am looking at upgrading my current carb to a side draught weber DCOE40 and am after some advice on the jet sizes and venturi size. Any help would be appreciated Cheers Shane

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Here is a picture of the crack. The machinist who was about to bore it out saw it and filled it to see if it was a scratch or if it blew out and therefor was a crack - ended up being a crack My 67 Rolla was originally a Tassie Rally car and as such the engine has had a hard time, when we opened it up the 4k head that was on the 5k block was heavily ported out, the block was bored to 20 thou and the engine was running on an 11.1 compression - no wonder the old girl shit herself, she used to go like a bat out of hell though Anyhow I have chased up a new 5k engine. Got a good deal $150 for an engine that was imported in the late 90's with only 30,000 Kms on it- has been sitting in a shed ever since - a nice virgin block - so take 2 for a 40thou bore out, new cam, cleaned up crankshaft, new set of deep curve pistons (I plan on adding turbo in the future so might as well put these in while its open), bigger exhaust, new seals allround, fully balanced, back on with the extractors and an upgraded carby Still after a decent carby for an upgrade from the original asian that was on it if anyone has one floating around.

I have since found out that the block has a crack in it, so I am on the hunt for a new 5k donk as well.

Hey Buddy I appreciate your advice on this. I did forget but they did mention a larger exhaust. I will certainly go with the hard filter - I prefer the look of the filter anyway. Now to see if anuone on here has a weber and manifold laying around otherwise Ill have to go a refurbished one again thanks for the advice cheers shane

Hey Mate, Thanks for the info. My mate is doing the engine work on the car for me and after pulling the donk apart we had a bit of a chat with an engine guru of his. To answer your questions the car is a bit of a hobby take it out a few times a week if I am lucky thing. I have already bare metal resprayed and had brand new interior fitted, new rubbers, brake upgrade - am presently on the hunt for a decent set of 14 inch rims with a 4x110 pattern The advice from both parties was that if I wanted to keep the 5k engine (which I do) then value for money there was a few things I would do that would make a difference and there were a few things that could be done that would cost a bomb and in their opinion not really be worth splashing the cash on. They recommend; 1. The bottom end are already bored out .5mm they suggest taking them out to 40 thou - I need to replace the pistons anyway due to number 3 being shot 2. polish up the crankshaft 3. new bearings and balance 4. new cam - they recommend a fairly off the shelf version with nothing really fancy to allow for high and low rev 5. Currently running the original carb - they have recommended a side draft single weber as they believe any more then one carb will be a waste of fuel - I am steering towards the single webber over the EFI as I like the sound you get from a carb 6. I already have extractors so that is sorted.

Hey All, I am after a bit of advice on a decent carby setup. Due to the seal going in cylinder 3 of my 5k engine I am jumping at the opportunity to do a complete rebuild of my engine, I have plans to bore her out, upgrade the cam, lighten the flywheel and so on (I know many will say replace with a 4age or similar but I love my little 5k so am happy to throw the cash at it), I have the original asian carby on and am wondering peoples opinions from experience; should I be upgrading to a dual webber / single webber and or is a 7k efi upgrade the better option.