altezzaclub

...aaand.. this one was interesting because I'd just read that since the time that I was born (1950 or so) the number of laws in the USA has increased by 18times! So for every law then we now have 18, assuming Aussie is the same as America and I can't see it being any different. NZ realised a decade or two back that no one person knew all the tax laws and the demands of the tax parasites were purely random. That was when David Henderson had a massive stoush with IRD and Parliament got involved. Suddenly the MPs realised they knew nothing about how their tax was gathered, and more importantly, they didn't want to know, just so long as it kept rolling in! So, want to build a garage out the back...

Continued, with videos, here- http://www.gizmag.com/duke-engines-axial/33631/?utm_source=Gizmag+Subscribers&utm_campaign=5fd7132cbc-UA-2235360-4&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_65b67362bd-5fd7132cbc-90650217

..and while Julie Bishop is wanking on about how ISIS can't be eliminated, AND carefully avoiding pointing out that they were formed, trained and armed by the USA to get rid of Assad's Govt in Syria... we have more clowns closer to home! Infinity pools are the ones where the water flows over one side to be collected and recycled, so you have a drop straight off one wall. ...and so it goes on! You are being lined up for another reaming by your masters over the 'recognition of aboriginal rights' referendum. Those above you have a picture of the future, one that they have probably been told to have by the UN, and careful advertising will make sure you all vote for it. .....or at least a close enough vote so they can bullshit the results to get the answer they want. Once it is recognised that Australia belonged to the abos and it was taken from them by the whites, you will have the happy situation of NZ currently, an endless gravy train of claims for billions of dollars for things your great-grandparents did! (or never did at all, but no-one can stand up and call the claiments liars as it is all done in a secret court!) Naturally the clowns in power don't care, its taxpayer's money and it makes them look good as they help the "poor and underpriviledged". You have until Oct 30th to make a submission and a 'suggestion' of the question that should be on the ballot paper. Watch this space...

So are we talking Duco or Dulon here? I was spraying when Duco was the norm with enamel as the alternative, and then this new Dulon was introduced for metallic paints. Long before everyone went to 2-pack Urethanes, and I think there are newer systems since then. Duco was a nitrocellulose laquer, with Dulon being an acrylic- Great solvents! These kids sniffing petrol know nothing! Ah- more Wiki- We would progressively thin the top coat over successive coats to get a better shine, and mix clear laquer in with the colour on the last couple of coats to give it some depth. Probably the reality is summed up here- Using urethane is difficult but the results are better and last much longer. Nice idea, but the rally car gets sprayed in brushing enamel with turps thinner!

Needs some white! Sigh.... Steve is flat-out this year so we haven't touched ours for months. We'll start again after Xmas.

Get out your trusty $10 multimeter and turn it onto 12V DC. Put the black lead on a metal fitting for earth, unplug the wires on the fan and stick a probe into each wire with it all turned on. If you can find a 12V feed there then you know power is getting to the fan, it should be the LG wire. You can see from the diagram the main feed is through the heater fuse and the relay is switched on via the wiper feed. So full power goes to the heater motor and the speed is controlled via its earth, like the headlights work. You should have power to the LG (blue/green) and the LR(blue/red) with with ignition switched on. If there is no power to LG it is a fuse or wiring connection, but power to LG and not LR means the motor is burned out. If you have power to both those and the heater fan doesn't work on "high", then the switch or it's earth is borked.

So that is 3-4mm down the dipstick? About half a litre? The Girl's KE70 would use that in 1000Km trip up to Qld, and my Gold car doesn't use oil. See what the compression test says, if the oil rings are not great the compression could also be poor. It would be nice to have 150-160psi on all cylinders. 130 would be very worn, and any one low cyl would suggst a broken ring or burnt valve.

Single DCOE or twin?? Richo has a single on his 345K, I'll link him this if you have a single.

Nah- get an Exel, dirt cheap and cheerful, reliable, millions around as first cars and they even have their own rally class! Unless you want a RWD, in which case there is no option to a Corolla! A BMW is far too costly as a first car (either buying or maintaining) and the rest of the RWDs are impractical sports 2-seaters like RX7s and Nissan Sylvias. I remembered why I love them this morning when it was just drizzling with rain and I had traffic islands to drive around.... Just try not to crash it... we will run out of KE70s one day and they aren't as survivable as newer cars.

So what are you going to do?? It is no good driving it like that. The options really are to put it on a dyno for an hour while you check the mixture under load and try various jets to get it right. If the dyno man has a box of jets that fit you just buy the ones you need. or you could do it yourself but you'll have to buy an oxy sensor and a mixture display, and then keep buying jets until you get the right ones. that's still cheaper than buying jet drills and making small jets larger.

Sounds right- how is the fuel usage compared to stock?? Rich runs cool, lean runs hot.

Ah, OK- a plug misses a firing so one cylinder has to be jammed up on compression for no gain? That gives a quick misfire/cutout. If the compressions are low or the oil is getting up into the cylinders that will give it a midfire too. Check how clean the plugs are when you have them out for a compression test. If you go driving first to warm them up and don't let it idle before you turn it off you will get a better idea or how oily they are when running. You might as well buy a compression gauge as they are fairly cheap and you'll use it planty of times over the years. Maybe the coil/points/condensor take out a couple of firings that drop the revs more. That would be more noticeable as it kills several firings in succession. If you fiddle with the wiring while its running can you make it do it?? ..and the next time it rains at night take a look under the bonnet if you're driving. That's the ideal time to see green sparks jumping everywhere as leads and coils break down. Carb problems are usually slower acting on the revs and usually repeatable.

I'd say the tacho jumps but not the motor... 4Ks don't "jump" in revs at any time! If a faulty PCV was bleeding air/oil vapour from the crank to the inlet manifold it would affect the idle speed a lot. If the compression rings are worn/broken then compression will bleed down into the block and yes, the PCV will burn more oil vapour. Compressions will be low on a compression test. If the oil rings are worn then oil will go up into the cylinder and be burnt out the exhaust, causing that hazy blue smoke when you acclerate. The compression test may be normal if the compression rings are still OK. So, how many Km per litre of oil?? What compressions on the cylinders??

What a guy! I'd believe him when it comes to evaluating which fighter was best, at least he has flown all of them! Nothing sounds better than a big Merlin coming out of a dive, I miss Auckland's Warbirds over Howick.

Been there, done that- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/page__st__45 The vac advance is only to advance the timing at cruising speed when the mixture is running lean. It helps with fuel efficiency and emissions. The moment you accelerate it collapses and you run on the springs and weights. Mark out the crank pulley and generate your own advance curve, and see how it compares to mine.

Any advantage in standing the rear shocks up vertical?? Doesn't matter if you chop 'n weld a turret in each side of the boot floor, its not regoe'd.

Measure yours and compare it to mine- I fitted the Celcia's into a KE70 and the difference was not noticeable, but your KE will be narrower again. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/65709-how-to-fit-a-celica-diff-to-a-ke70/

Yep- Yep again- try and tuck them against a chassis rail on the body, they do get stressed and will crack on a stock mount if you drive hard enough. I took it back and the gingerbeer checked it, and even showed me it on the balancer. I wonder if its eccentric even if in balance, but I'm changing the diff head to a 4.1 right now so I'll see what its like afterwards.

OMG! The Shed!! THE SHED!!! That body is going to be sooo neat and clean...

Do you have a wirng diagram for it, both the original KE70 and how the 4AGE was patched into it?? ..and did it run fine before this or are you just wiring it up before driving it with the new motor??

Jono is right, it is easist to put leaf springs on the Celica diff. You could keep the lower arms as anti-tramp rods, but they will need to pivot on the same distance forward as the leaves do. They have to move in the same arc as the diff goes up and down, while the rear of the leaf is flexible in length on its swinging rear coupling. Probably the stock 5-link mounts on the diff will interfere with the leaf mounts, so the two bars will have to have their mounts moved over. The panhard could be used too, but there is a large mount to make for it on the chassis. To mount the top arms you will probably have to change the floor, so if you're in for making floor pan changes then use all the five link arms on the TA60 diff. A lot of work and no chance of rego I expect. The one-piece driveshaft will be OK, its not that long, but making sure it is balanced correctly is the trick. Mine still vibrates around 60kph and really annoys me, so I'll have to find another engineer to re-do it..

Mine used push the fuel backwards through the pump, through the filter and leave an air lock in the filter every now and then. The airlock collapsed overnight and the fuel came back, but occasionally if I fired it up after an hour or two it ran for a minute on the carb bowl full of fuel and died. It wouldn't suck fuel back along the line so I had to pull the line off at the steel pipe and put it in a jar of fuel... Its all due to the fuel vapourising from the underbonnet heat when you park and pressure building up in the lines. My solution seems to be turning the fuel filter upside down so the bubbles can escape back to the tank without emptying the filter. I expected the return line to handle all this, same as it should in your case. I've blown my return clean with compressed air but it didn't solve the problem. Certainly check the fuel line for tightness and cracks, but if that is OK then make sure the return line is working.

Take the plastic cover off in the boot floor and check the wiring, Something may have come off or broken. Make sure its getting 12V there and the guage goes to Full if you short the wire to earth.

Yep- I took the 2" extractors along a 2" pipe to the longest 2" resonator we counld get, fitted under the passenger's floor as usual. From there it is 1.75" back to a "sports" muffler, an 'open center' tri-chamber that absorbs noise well while still flowing cleanly. That sounds good on the road and is fine inside the car, it runs with a cam and twin SU carbs, although it is still drony after a couple of hours at 100kph. That's all on a 4K. build is here with a couple of sound files- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/

That's very telling. #3 is not working at idle, but sounds like it works OK when the revs are up. That would suggest idle circuit on that cyl if you're running twin sidedraughts, possibly the idle tuning. Plug and lead can be swapped to check them. ------------------------ Ah- stock motor and carb back in- Check compressions as a burnt valve is more noticeable at idle too.