altezzaclub

No, I wouldn't do it for those situations either, especially something boosted. The O-dish is 4 or 5mm deep, it would be easy enough to whip 1 or 2mm off the top. We did measure the volume, Richo has the figures. Filfrederick's 4K twincam went out to 4AGE pistons and hauled great rpm, but until its done 50,000km no-one knows how well it lasts. The list I accumulated from people who have done it is on this page- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/page__st__60

LoL !! How come I never noticed that! So that only leaves a wagon with a manual box and a low diff, compared to Justin's 4speed in a sedan.

That's odd as the gear ratios are almost exactly the same, and certainly 4th is, so its only the speedo drive gear that is screwing you around like Parrot said. One box must have been used in an auto and one in a manual, or maybe its a wagon g'box. KE30-55 Auto had 4.3 KE30-55 Manual had 4.1 KE36 Manual had 4.5 KE38 Manual had 4.3

Well, I'm halfway through doing it on Richo's motor. Its just a matter of boring the block out to take the 1.5L pistons, and enough people have done it and found that works fine. There are no other changes you need to do, just us the shallow "O"-dish 5K pistons with everything else 4K. If I do it I'll deck the block and pistons a tad to help the compression as the dish removes the compression gain from the 1500cc into a 1300cc head. There's no changes to lifters or anything else. I just haven't had a motor that needs rings yet!

hmm.. the only thing I can remember is that the rear yoke is smaller than the KE70 in flange diameter. Its 45.8 in the photo here, and the hole spacing is symmetrical. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/65709-how-to-fit-a-celica-diff-to-a-ke70/

I wish! Seams in old cars are full of oil and dirt and shit, never mind the filler and the paint. It takes ages with a wire brush cleaning up as you go and the crap stops the weld melting in properly, not to mention the toxic fumes. Look after him, you're lucky to have an uncle who volunteers for that sort of thing! Lol those mufflers are gigantic!

They do pop off the rim easier than than they should, according to a rally mate who owns tyre shops. Halfway through a corner with the outside front wheel loaded up, the tyre rolling underneath and you hit a sharp little pothole or hollow in the road... I'm not sure at what size they get to be a problem, these guys say a 15x8 can take anything from 215 to 245, so a 205 would probably be fine. http://www.tyresizecalculator.com/tyre-wheel-calculators/tyre-size-for-rim-size-width-calculator

Hot 4K... An aged side-cam 1.3L... just enough to keep up with the traffic... enough to make a lot of noise but go nowhere... How much power do you want? Is 100bhp OK? 150? 200?? 100bhp is pushing the little 4K pretty hard. You could expect 100bhp/L from a factory racing motor in the 1970s and 1980s, before VVTi and 16valve twincams. What is the car for? Daily driver to work in traffic? Night drags? Weekend trips away? Got money?? REAL money? Willing to put $15,000 into it? Minimum of $10,000?? or even just $5000 for a hot 4K? You could bore the 4K to 1.5L with 5K pistons to help, or go to a 7K with a bit more work. Lots of better motors for power than the 4AGE, but they all involve 2L. The 3SGE, the 18RG, the Nissan SR20 are all available in RWD and will make driving a KE70 effortless. I found the 4AGE to be OK, but underwhelming, its still only a 1.6L.

We stripped the struts, trimmed the spring seat off the tube and re-welded it on at the required height. We wanted them higher, not lower, on the Celica. So it can be done, depends on how keen you are. It keeps the ride quality you have as it uses the same springs and shocks, but in your case you should get increased camber and more bite in the front once its done. Make sure you work out what will smash itself to bits when it bottoms out one day- the shock piston, the rubber top mount, the spring coil-binding, the stub axle breaking off.... You need to plan these sorts of things. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/64027-how-not-to-build-a-rally-car/page__st__75

Well, really its only a head change, the block is a 4A for both motors. You could run a 4A-C with a single cam and carbs or a 4A-GC with twin cam and carbs. I suppose its the way people drive once they've fitted the twin cam motor that upsets the Govt, I don't see people running stock rims and tyres and stock suspension with the change in head. Somehow the Govt just sees a kid who can't see over the dashboard in a car with rigid suspension scraping along the ground on its massively wide rims and stretched bald tyres while making enough noise to wake the dead. I'd happily drop one into The Girl's KE70 and not change anything else just to get the extra 300cc and ease of holding 100kph up hills, but it all gets so expensive and complex with the engineering.

See if you can do it without upgrading the brakes. After all, you will not be travelling any faster, the 4K will do 100kph and that is all you're allowed to, so why should the same body need bigger brakes. On top of that, I've never had the 4K brakes fade and I've given them a hard time going down tight mountain passes in the Great Dividing Range, so they are quite adequate as they are. They will lock up the tyres in an emergency so you just can't get brakes any better. A different story if you're going racing....

As a general philosophy I always do that! If you get it running and registered at least you get to drive it around while you line up the conversion. Otherwise it just sits in the shed and the sheer enormity of the project overwhelms you and it never gets finished.

Its probably the best use for them as you can use the torque rather than revving them out on a race track.. The long stroke means they won't rev as high as a smaller over-square K, so keep that in mind when picking a cam. Same with carbs, get smaller rather than a bigger option to maximise the airflow velocity. Gav knows what he's talking about, PM him.

Go to your local Chery dealer and see if the early Chery SUV that used a Toyota 3Y has them that fit. Rob got a set from the dealership he works at and reckons they are the same, but I will email him now to confirm. Nope- A Great Wall SA220 uses them!

true- a nice package overall... If only they had sold that as a KE70 GT.

Strip the carby and hose out all the jets and drillings with petrol or carby cleaner, it sounds like there is shit blocking fuel flow either in a jet or a drilling. Check the points for gap as blzbub says, and if they need opening up check the timng afterwards. Check the spark with a screwdriver across the open points and ignition on in case the condensor is leaking and the spark is very weak. If a fuel filter is blocked I'd expect it to start and rev fine, but stutter when the load comes on as you drive away. For it not to start the float bowl would be almost completely dry, which is pretty unlikely.

Good grief!- It makes you wonder why no-one thought of that a decade or two back. Billzilla has a panel right behind his intake trumpets entry and said just having the radiused entry worked as well as having a complete trumpet in open air. Well done!

Well, after my gold car head was found to be cracked I was giving a head by Rob and by Steve. Coincidentally Steve and I checked them out today, and Rob's had really deeply angled seats that only contacted the valve on the very top edge. I popped around to Rob's with it after I'd cut a valve onto one and he said it was from a guy who worked it over for performance but actually he (Rob) had never used it. ..and he had no idea where the valves for it had gone to or how they were cut. I think I'll make the 100km drive to chat to my engineer in Bathurst about valve seat shape to suit the head seat, its all education...

We have a '92 Pulsar SSS that was aquired for my son a few years back, and now that he has bought a new car he handed it back. Reliable, handles well, takes lots of luggage, and the more common 1.6L is probably a more economical motor than SSS SR20. On the other hand, the 90s Hyundai Excels are cheap, reliable and simple, along with the Kia Mentos. Both of them were cheap to buy new and there are thousands being driven around by young people now.

Yep, they're stock ports alright! :laff:

We wanna listen in!!

Gott Damm! Anything that clean is cheating! Absolutely brand new and never been on a motor it looks like!

Look at the builds and PM some people... Here's ours- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/

White, blue, red, yellow... popular colours. What colour is it inside the engine bay? Keep the thread up to date with it, I'm thinking of the same thing for the end of the year..... It will be nice to see how easily it all comes together.

Half a day to a day...