altezzaclub

Sounds good- Are you going to leave it rattle-can black and keep it as permanent cop magnet? Nothing screams "pull me over for a guaranteed defect" except maybe no springs & no muffler...

Well, certainly hundreds of thousands if this article is right! Buy a "new' car that has spent two years sitting out in the weather somewhere! No thanks... Amazing waste of the planet's resources, but all those car companies are "too big to fail..." http://www.zerohedge.com/news/2014-05-16/where-worlds-unsold-cars-go-die

nope- I've never seen one crack, although until last month I'd never see a 4K head crack either! So I have no idea where to expect them. Too much time over 8000rpm with some nasty harmonics building up? I remember this comment in the Wiki- One cyl pushing the block wall to the left and the next cyl pushing it to the right at the same time?

Nice page there, some interesting problems come through the door...

My philosophy entirely! If you're that busy with so many projects you would have to be retired! I remember the good ol' days of working each day and having plenty of time to do nothing in between..

Thankyou my man, that will be used later in the year when we have camber cranked onto the rally KE70. I'd better rescue the rack ends from the RA60 diff donor in case the wrecker puts it in the crushing pile!

Have a read of this and write a list..... http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/64432-how-to-tackle-that-engine-conversion/ If you want to do it easy just modify the 4K, or if you want to keep it period-correct get a 3T or an 18RG, or if you want to moderniise it go 16valve with the 4AGE or pull the motor and 6-speed out of an MX5 and drop the whole lot in.

As Dave says, put a jack under each LCA and get the tyres just off the ground, then try turning the steering wheel. Did he hit a kerb in the crash? ..or anything with a wheel? I can't see anything steering-related being damaged without some damage underneath.

Ah well, start with the 4K as you said- I will try to get Richo's 345K running in late June and we will see what happens when you bore a 4K block to 5K pistons and fit a 3K head for more compression with a Tighe cam and a single DCOE Weber... Those mods are all easy to do and not too expensive.

Ah- the killer with the modern motors is the ECU to produce spark, especially with the coil-over-plug ones. The old system of a distributor is terribly inefficient, but it doesn't need a computer. You could run the 1NZ with some aftermarket computer that just does the ignition system, but that would cost more too. Then the gearbox would kill it anyway... The 4k would be the way to go unless you can find a more modern RWD motor and gearbox together, like the Nissan SR20 or the 3SGE. Can you get a 5K from a van over there? The extra 200cc would be nice to have. How about a 3Y? Still a tractor motor but it is RWD and was produced long after the K motors.

Looks factory, like it should have been produced... Its going to be quiet to drive, not like a KE70 at all!

Why the 1NZ?? Not the most revvy engine with a bore of 75 and a stroke of 85, although it is one of the new low-fuel usage motors. How about a 2ZR-FE, 1800cc and still uses less fuel than a 4K. It would be more fun to drive for the same amount of work. Neither will have a gearbox that has RWD configuration, and you could fit Keihins to any motor if you don't want the computer to work. They would probably stop the ignition system working actually, you will need the ECU to get spark and the ECU probably needs the injection system running. All too modern for me I'm afraid.

So, originally an AE71 not a KE70, or a KE70 with an arduous conversion to 4A-C and T-50?? One of your children Blzbub?? Either way the 4AGE will be the final step. Should make a nice daily!

I'll bet you get rid of THIS camber!....

Pretty damm stunning! It started off as such a cheap and simple conversion too... I also reckon white wheels, the black wheels are just so 'high-school' now. .. when are you going to be happy enough with it to just drive it around? :laff:

It sounds like somewhere there is an air leak. Sadly you should have thrown away that two-piece manifold gasket and bought a $10 one-piece one. The whole thing is a disaster area, if you lay a straight-edge along the manifolds I'll bet the exhaust face is not at the same height as the inlet. Two different metals bolted together thirty years ago... I've never seen one flat. Ideally you should machine the two manifold's faces to be equal, but that's quite difficult, or unbolt the hotbox and do up the two manifolds separately. However the bolts always snap so a one-piece gasket and sealant has to do. Actually, first take the carb off again, pull out the jets and squirt petrol through all the drillings with a syringe or a can of carb cleaner just in case there is a bit of dirt in one. The problem could be lack of fuel as easily as too much air. Other than that, there is the carb-manifold gasket and spacer, or the throttle shaft clearance letting air in. I can't see that valve timing is involved, did you set the tappet gaps?? ..and I assume you set the ignition timing after changing points...

Here's what I reckoned. You guys can check the figures in case I've made a cockup...

Funny, I was going through this with Steve last night.. if you back-calculate the 4K head volume from the comp ratio of 9.1 : 1 it should be 34.5cc. If you use a compression ratio of 9.4 to one then the head volume has to be 32.6cc. I measured mine with a lab pipette & plastic sheet and got 31cc on a stock (I assume!) head. This is on KE70 4Ks. That was working with the published bore and stroke, flat-top 4K pistons and a head gasket of 79mm diameter and 1.1mm thick. (which I measured off a used one last night, don't forget the gasket is larger than the cyl bore) So maybe the factory measure in some technical way rather than just having whatever spark plugs and valves in there. Richo and I measured his brand-new shallow dish 5K pistons a month back and the dish was 5point something cc, I can't remember offhand, he wrote it all down as we measured his 4K and 3K head volumes. Basically, in a 4K block the dish removes the extra compression from having 5K pistons, so you still have to skim something to raise the CR. I'd be tempted to deck the block and the top of the pistons to remove some dish!! He's using the 3K head to raise compression, so a 3K head, 4K block and 5K bore. I'm dying to see it going!

here- check out the pink options. See what's in your carb as a comparison.

damm.... You're far more likely to find a 4K, even if you bore it out to take 5K pistons.

Set the timing first.. (before you bought plugs and leads..) 8-10deg should be fine. Set it without the vacuum advance hose on, then check that connecting the vac hose does alter the timing above idle. If it is on 8deg now, the problem is probably carb related. Google will tell you how to check the float level, you take the top off, hold it on its side and measure how far the float is from the top. DCOEs run on a low fuel pressure so you might need a fuel pressure restrictor. I bought one for about $50 for the SU carbs (they need low pressure too) and I can run it on 1psi quite happily. You could rig up a gravity feed from a jar to the inlet and see if that makes a difference. The last problem might be the jetting. You'd need to research the various jet sizes for a 1.5L with a single DCOE to get in the general ball park, the final jets would differ according to cam etc. All much easier with a mixture meter, so either pay some garage/dyno guy to check the fuel mixture as the motor works, or buy a fuel mixture display gauge & an oxy sensor. Check the timing and float level, then whip out the jets and post the statistics up on here, someone might have a good idea what you need. You'll have main fuel jet, main air corrector, emulsion tube, and then the same for the idle circuit. There will also be the 'choke' diameter in the throat. The DCOE idle circut is not like other carbs where it just restricts the amount of air going in, the DCOE idle runs the motor up to about 2000rpm before handing over to the main circuit. Sorry, forgot that bit- yes, make sure the needle and seat are clean with no tiny fibre lying across them.

interesting point- Any ideas Craig? I supose a KE70 5link weighs more than a couple of leaf springs too, its the cost of better handling.

Sounds good- get a cam that pulls from 3000-7000 as you'll use the mid-range more than anything else. Are you putting a 2" exhaust behind the extractors? That covers all the best value-for-money mods. Get a hard filter for the Weber as using socks means there is nowhere for one PCV tube to go, so you always have an open vent on the tappet cover spraying oil all over the motor. Rich has sox on his single DCOE in a KE30 as there is no room against the strut turret, and the oil vapour is a real pain. Even a catch tank still vents back to the atmosphere somewhere.

That's good, so the gasket is fine. Oil smoke should be blue-ish, over-rich is black, white is water vapour, so I suppose its just the cold weather making it more noticeable. A service shouldn't affect it, change the oil and filter, check plugs, points, & timing,... would you do it yourself?

I reckon there's a crack between the valves in Mayo's head that Steve has being skimmed as we speak. There's only a couple of mm between the valves, so maybe it goes nowhere. Time will tell with that one. I know that one was driven around for quite a while with the head gasket blown, in fact until it couldn't be driven anymore.