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altezzaclub

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Everything posted by altezzaclub

  1. Well, that was to be proved in real life for a while. Weren't the car clubs talking about having to do repeated emergency stops from 160kph to conform to the latest ideas from Govt? Before mandating bigger brakes I feel the 'authorities' should have to prove the stock brakes are inadequate. It just seems to be a myth that bigger brakes are needed when you fit a bigger engine, even if stock brakes will lock the tyres up. Once those tyres are locked it doesn't matter how much bigger your brakes are.
  2. If you want a road trip, contact Insanity. There are a few extra KE70s on the farm near Armidale.
  3. I doubt that you can, athough I'd love to find out that you can! The Hall Effect sensor tells the dizzy when to fire the coil, the dizzy software reads the sensor input against time and it ramps up the advance according to a fixed curve. To play with the timing you need a programmable ECU, which these days you can buy I think. Just use an old mechanical dizzy you can lock. Sell the electronic one for a hundred bucks or fit it to another 4K.
  4. What's the story with compression ratio and boost?? How much boost will it take at the stock compression? I'm not a turbo man, but some guys on here have done it all & I'm sure they have sorted the problems with that.
  5. ..which is what I used to use in the 1960s.. Kero and diesel 50:50, fire the motor up and let it idle for a few minutes. Maybe turn it off and leave it overnight, then fire it up again and idle it before dropping it out and changing the filter. It won't lubricate the bearings under load, so don't drive it or rev it.
  6. Either charge the battery overnight or jump with another battery as well. Just make sure there is a spark at a spark plug. Make sure there is petrol being pumped down the throat when you hit the accelerator. I know the pump on my gold car is dodgy and that makes it hard to start. Then pour about 20ml of petrol straight down the carb and start it on full choke.
  7. Ah- the good old days! The Quattro was AWESOME, in the real meaning of the word! A big brutal pig with an unmistakable howl...
  8. I've never seen one, and the only one I remember reading about on here in Aussie was imported from the USA and converted to RH drive. You might have to do that. Chase Club-K in NZ as I'm sure some ended up there, and also in South Africa. Cape Town's Box Boys are on AE86drivingclub forums, the KE70 is The Box Corolla over there. The Phillipines have their own version as the Charmant, you might grab one of those. The difference is in this post, but you can Google them anytime. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/25896-ae71-2-door/ They are the coolest car, but so rare.
  9. We used the epoxy putty on the rally car tank at a braized joint that was weeping fuel. It didn't adhere as well as I expected, the fuel would leak out under it until I realised the system wasn't venting through the new-style cap on it. Once I drilled out the one-way valve in the cap it was OK, the problem was pressure build-up as the temperature rose during the day. CRC used to make a treacle-thick epoxy in a kit with a patch of fibregalss cloth, that used to work better.
  10. This might be late, but I'm planning a horizontal bar across the car between the main hoop legs that will be bolted to the transmission tunnel. Is that the one you said you weren't keen on? I figure the transmission tunnel is the weakest part of the floor and this would help strengthen it. If you cut the whole floor out between the sills I don't think the car would be significantly weaker. I suppose the giant 'X' of diagonals in your hoop will do the some of that work, as well as resisting twist of the main body.
  11. well... its all here- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/69126-how-to-build-a-rally-car/page__gopid__680040#entry680040
  12. Work out the fastest speed you ever get to in a street sprint and then work back through engine revs & whichever gear is 1:1... so you hit that top speed at max revs in (usually) 4th gear with a 'whatever' diff ratio. I'd expect a 4.8 The lower the gear ratio the faster you'll accelerate. Do it like this- 185/60X13 RE88 has a circumference of 1.735M, so in a Km it turns 1000/1.735=576times At 160kph it will turn 160*576/60=1535rpm The motor is hauling 7000rpm through a one to one gear, so the diff ratio you need is 7000/1535=4.6 If your tyres are bigger then you need a lower diff. We use a 4.8 in the rally car, with 14" tyres, as its all acceleration and hopefully no long stretches at 6800 in 5th!!
  13. No, but you'll have to find those nuts from underneath by the look of it. You can see in this photo I had the dashtop out on the bonnet and the rest of the dash was inside, although pretty well taken apart. Sadly I wasn't trying to remove the dash to do anything in particular with it, so I just hauled it all out without noting how I did it.
  14. Not unless they're halfway through pulling a dash out! You're looking for 8mm studs facing downwards between the black steel panel in picture C and the dashpad, I think... Not something you can see in a car with the dash still in! Yep, they're there- I just lay on the floor of The Beast and right up under the windscreen was a nut on a stud. In the most impossible to reach place of course!
  15. Ah- THIS is what Govts are for! Distorting the free market and stopping people getting what they want! This time Aussie is on the receiving end for once! http://www.drive.com.au/motor-news/australias-fastest-holden-grounded-under-prohibitive-laws-20140508-37x0q.html?utm_source=outbrain&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=outbrain_amplify
  16. Cam grnders reckon 0.4" is the max for stock springs, but one of the Mods on here has run more lift than that with no problem on stock springs. Might have been Philbey- it was mentioned last year. Crow sell valve springs for higher lifts, or get Holden 202 off some particular motor. Just search Rollaclub for it, its on here somewhere.
  17. ...unless someone jams them in and ruins the little pins. Take them out and let us know which way around they are. If one bulb is harder to turn than the other it would suggest one is jammed in backwards..
  18. Isn't there a whole lot of 8mm nuts under there that hold the dash pad down with studs?? The studs are fixed into the steel frame of the pad and point downwards through slots in the black steel dash top. That's the panel you see at the very front part of where the winscreen is glued in. I did it on the rally car earlier this year and it all fell apart OK. I can't remember the sequence of which part came off before what.
  19. From further up the coast... I'd say its not worth running it past 6000rpm. The mans from Vancouver- http://www.hachiroku.net/forums/showthread.php?t=25084
  20. Surely the stuff of wet dreams! What can your father in law find for you over there.... even a 2-door KE70 with a 2TG!
  21. Damm those 2-door sedans are rare over here! It doesn't sound like it needs much work, you're starting with a good engine/gearbox combination already.
  22. Find one at a wrecker and remove it... take a squeeze bottle of soapy water. Its not the sort of thing that will stand being mailed.
  23. Yes, the holes are related to the cam teeth, so you go forward a hole, forward a hole, then forward a tooth and back a hole. Well, that's my Datsun experience, I have never had an adjustable K camwheel. What you need is the head on, the cam in place with only two rockers in a cyl and a dial guage on a valve collet top. You put a circular protractor on the crank pulley and turn from TDC. When the cam lobe opens you will see it instantly on the dial guage and read it off the protractor. That will let you set it up according to the cam cutter's specs, and then you change it a coupe of degrees either way once you have it all running and want to change the power band. You might as well build the little steel fitting that holds the dial gauge on the head somewhere, and we drilled the pulley bolt and tapped it for the circular protractor. That way you are set up for doing this for decades to come.
  24. Here's the lights wiring diagram- You can see that a greeen (G) wire supplies the park lights from the tail light relay. Power to that is the white wire from the fuse in the kick panel relay box, and switching is by the LG (blue & green) of the light switch. Use a $10 multimeter to see that you have power at the bulb and a circuit to earth.
  25. ah- also forgot to mention left foot braking.. If you left-foot brake deep into the corner you can modulate the pressure to hold weight down on the nose while turning. So you brake hard to get the speed you want but don't lift your foot right off while you turn until you start to accelerate. Even on fast corners where you don't need to brake & change down, just leaning on the brakes a little with your left foot will stabilise the car. You don't need to lift off the power. Another skill that is not promoted by the Govt mainstream but it is worth learning.
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