altezzaclub

Funny, I was going through this with Steve last night.. if you back-calculate the 4K head volume from the comp ratio of 9.1 : 1 it should be 34.5cc. If you use a compression ratio of 9.4 to one then the head volume has to be 32.6cc. I measured mine with a lab pipette & plastic sheet and got 31cc on a stock (I assume!) head. This is on KE70 4Ks. That was working with the published bore and stroke, flat-top 4K pistons and a head gasket of 79mm diameter and 1.1mm thick. (which I measured off a used one last night, don't forget the gasket is larger than the cyl bore) So maybe the factory measure in some technical way rather than just having whatever spark plugs and valves in there. Richo and I measured his brand-new shallow dish 5K pistons a month back and the dish was 5point something cc, I can't remember offhand, he wrote it all down as we measured his 4K and 3K head volumes. Basically, in a 4K block the dish removes the extra compression from having 5K pistons, so you still have to skim something to raise the CR. I'd be tempted to deck the block and the top of the pistons to remove some dish!! He's using the 3K head to raise compression, so a 3K head, 4K block and 5K bore. I'm dying to see it going!

here- check out the pink options. See what's in your carb as a comparison.

damm.... You're far more likely to find a 4K, even if you bore it out to take 5K pistons.

Set the timing first.. (before you bought plugs and leads..) 8-10deg should be fine. Set it without the vacuum advance hose on, then check that connecting the vac hose does alter the timing above idle. If it is on 8deg now, the problem is probably carb related. Google will tell you how to check the float level, you take the top off, hold it on its side and measure how far the float is from the top. DCOEs run on a low fuel pressure so you might need a fuel pressure restrictor. I bought one for about $50 for the SU carbs (they need low pressure too) and I can run it on 1psi quite happily. You could rig up a gravity feed from a jar to the inlet and see if that makes a difference. The last problem might be the jetting. You'd need to research the various jet sizes for a 1.5L with a single DCOE to get in the general ball park, the final jets would differ according to cam etc. All much easier with a mixture meter, so either pay some garage/dyno guy to check the fuel mixture as the motor works, or buy a fuel mixture display gauge & an oxy sensor. Check the timing and float level, then whip out the jets and post the statistics up on here, someone might have a good idea what you need. You'll have main fuel jet, main air corrector, emulsion tube, and then the same for the idle circuit. There will also be the 'choke' diameter in the throat. The DCOE idle circut is not like other carbs where it just restricts the amount of air going in, the DCOE idle runs the motor up to about 2000rpm before handing over to the main circuit. Sorry, forgot that bit- yes, make sure the needle and seat are clean with no tiny fibre lying across them.

interesting point- Any ideas Craig? I supose a KE70 5link weighs more than a couple of leaf springs too, its the cost of better handling.

Sounds good- get a cam that pulls from 3000-7000 as you'll use the mid-range more than anything else. Are you putting a 2" exhaust behind the extractors? That covers all the best value-for-money mods. Get a hard filter for the Weber as using socks means there is nowhere for one PCV tube to go, so you always have an open vent on the tappet cover spraying oil all over the motor. Rich has sox on his single DCOE in a KE30 as there is no room against the strut turret, and the oil vapour is a real pain. Even a catch tank still vents back to the atmosphere somewhere.

That's good, so the gasket is fine. Oil smoke should be blue-ish, over-rich is black, white is water vapour, so I suppose its just the cold weather making it more noticeable. A service shouldn't affect it, change the oil and filter, check plugs, points, & timing,... would you do it yourself?

I reckon there's a crack between the valves in Mayo's head that Steve has being skimmed as we speak. There's only a couple of mm between the valves, so maybe it goes nowhere. Time will tell with that one. I know that one was driven around for quite a while with the head gasket blown, in fact until it couldn't be driven anymore.

It hurts, but sooner a fox than a 'roo! Night time is dangerous in Oz.

I like the idea of a single DCOE Weber. Cheaper would be the Weber 32/36 d'draught of course, better for air cleaner setups and PCV hoses, but not as cool! Twin SUs would probably cost the same as the Weber, but they'd be older and although cheaper on fuel on a trip they would lack the punch around town. The efi would be the most technical for me, but you might be more up to date with it. Is it still going to be a daily?? What sort of cam?? Are you porting the head? Make sure you get the bottom end balanced, it will rev much smoother and last longer.

The gold-coloured XX KE70 I bought recently had a leaking head gasket, it always started on three cyls then picked up the 4th after 10-20seconds, then ran fine all day. After being away for a couple of weeks in The Girls KE70 I checked the water in the gold one and saw it was down, and the battery was flat, so I filled the rad up and charged it o'night. The next day the water was down again but the oil was overfull.. :o Off with the head and I could see the mark between 2 and 3 where the gasket wasn't sealing, so off to a head shop. They ph'd and said they'd found a crack in the head going outwards from a valve seat, although I haven't driven the 100km round trip to pick it up yet. Has anyone else had a head crack?? I thought they just warped on these motors.

..or are there any bubbles coming up the radiator outlet when it first starts?? First thing in hte morning take the rad cap off before you start it, fill the rad right up then start it and let it idle. Bubbles come up after a few minutes and push water out. Starts on 3cylinders then catches the 4th?? Same thing Dave is getting at, white smoke is often water vapour from a head gasket leaking.

Are the ratios the same? I know there were two different 2nd gears in the early boxes, but I don't know if they were related to the spline count.

Not vital- The KE70 idles at 1000rpm. Drop it back and see if its happy running slower. If its stock it should idle at 600 without a problem.

1- Does the piston & rod push further back into the slave cyl OK with the clutch pedal up? Just grab the clutch fork lever and push it towards the front of the car a few mm. 2- Does it do that just after you've pushed the clutch pedal down then up? 3- If you take the slave cyl off, does the clutch fork & release brg travel back and forth OK? One problem would be hydraulics that are working outside their designed range and don't return correctly. Another would be having the release bearing drop off the end of its tube.

A- Softer springs (if you're using the XT130 struts and springs) Keeps a smooth ride. B- Cut off the spring perches and mount them lower down on the struts. Keeps the same ride. C- Cut a coil or two off the springs. Gives a harder ride. Remember to measure shocks 'n springs to see what will get smashed first when it bottoms out. You might have to cut the shock shaft shorter, or fit longer bump stops.

I found a white bonnet in better condition than the purple one, with the usual Toyota problem of the frame un-gluing itself from the top panel. I laid it down in the grass with the sides supported, siliconed along the joints and put some weights on the frame to press them together. Even covered it with a tarp to stop the rain getting on the silicon. Next day it had been disturbed, and when we picked it up a damm cow had walked all over it, crushing the frame and adding an extra few inches of bend in the bonnet across the car! Oh- Those strange marks on the floor were lines of iron filings from the grinder & they had been lined up by the current in the Mig welder!

Well, Steve's back at Uni and I'm back in Orange with a long list of jobs to do... With the seats mounted the next big job is the roll cage, which will wait until the June holidays. We finished off with other odd stuff, like getting the fuel tank in- The firewall was mounted and sealed- Steve and Richard spent a night at the workbench, Steve grinding valves in a 4K head for his daily, Richo porting out the 4K head for his 345K. The next day was time for valves to be fitted, when to our horror we discovered we'd ground them into the warped head! So there is a very grubby but straight head still lying under the bench and MAO's original head is off being skimmed! I was down there by myself when storms arrived, so I jammed the rally car right at the back and reversed The Girl's KE70 in as far as I could and covered the bonnet. Just in time, this is as the hail started.. In the end the stones were no larger than 8mm, so they probably wouldn't have damaged it. It was very localised, as usual..

being "Do not let the smoke out of the wire!" Wires conduct electricity as smoke, and if the smoke escapes nothing will work... ATOYOTA the diagrams I found again were for models other than the G200, most being the G100 series and others older. You seem to have an unusual one there when it comes to the web.

had to look it up... Ausrotary had a topic on it- I supose this refers to the 5K electronic dizzy with the slow advance curve as stock. Time to change the springs inside! I'm still running the stock coil with the 5K electronic dizzy, so maybe I can make it even better with an MEC 723. Seems fine currently. We used a Hotspark type on the Celica with a GT40. That always worked perfectly.

Good grief! You must have cornered the whole market! You have to ask yourself why they didn't just use one cam chain.. Surely it wasn't too hard to run that chain you have fitted up and over the cams with an idler wheel to take up the slack. I suppose everyone was trained in side-cam thinking back then. So with 9.7 comp and 40mm carbs this is not too serious. We still have Grumpy's motor at the engineers, but I'll measure the comp when it gets back as the pistons were touching the head...

that's why the KEs run an 8V coil with the ballast resistor. They work at 100% efficiency when cranking, then the resistor drops the usual 12V to 8V when running. However if the Charade doesn't have a resistor then its designed to start at 8V. There only needs to be one wire on the coil +ve in that case, it should supply full voltage when cranking and when running, but obviously 'full' voltage is only 8V when starting. The other factor would be a poor battery that coulsn't crank and supply the coil with enough voltage. That's a worry, so we can assume the coil is fine. Is there anything else involved, or just a coil and a transistorised ignition pack inside the dizzy both of which you swapped at once for no result? How about you feed the coil +ve from another battery using jump leads and see what it does. That will guarantee 12V to the coil. If that fixes it then start hunting for some wire in the circuit that is robbing current from the coil +ve, or a bad earth on the coil -ve side. There are stacks of Charade wiring diagrams on the web, the one I looked up had a ballast resistor, so can you post a link to the diagram that refers to your model?

PM insanity (Steve) or I if you need some odd bits, we have half a donor fastback and the remnants of the rallycar coupe in the paddock.

X2 !

hmm... vents... I was thinking of a badly fitting bonnet that sits high at the rear.. Years ago when I had a fibreglass bonnet the rear corners were only a single skin and the reinforcing cut diagonally short across the corner. That left very flexible corners that looked fine when parked but lifted up to let air out when going fast... I should get Steve to come and work with you for a week or two to learn real welding! The tech course was fine if you weld clean steel on a bench while standing up.