altezzaclub

Ouch! Imagine that young lady by the time she gets a driving licence- she will run rings around the examiners and the cops!

That did the job and the car moved it no problem. We cleaned up the base and moved the new tank onto it. The tarpaper was so well stuck it stayed there. The next day we plumbed the tank in, and cut the bottom part of the steel tank in half vertically. Those bits we tipped on their side facing each other and wired them to the garden shed. Another disc on the grinder and I cut a doorway into a new 2M high by 2M wide by 3M long aircraft hangar! The "smaller" top piece the lady who rents it said she would use as a raised garden.. Then back to Coolangatta to drop off bro, and 1000km back to Orange. Now I have the Gold car to play with too they can interact. First was fitting an electric fan to The Girl's KE70- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/68673-how-to-fit-an-electric-fan/ ..and the diff/wheel size question is more complicated! Seeing the auto runs a 1:1 top and a 4.3diff stock, it cruises at 4000rpm at 100kph. Then I have the blue car with a 3.9 that only hauls 3125rpm at the same speed, nice and slow but actually uses more fuel on long hauls than a 4.1 as it works slightly harder all the time. So I reckon swapping the diffs will work, gearing the auto up with the 3.9 and the manual down with the 4.3, and 100kph will be 3560 for the auto and 3445 for the manual. Fit the 14X6 mags I have lying around and the auto will get down to 3445rpm also if I use 175/70X14 tyres on them , exactly the same as the manual in 5th. I'd better wait until The Girl gets back from South Africa and we decide who's driving what and how far...

Well, I'll update this one and see how we go on a new thread... The last trip up to the farm was to finish getting the Celcia ready for the final rally of the year, and it included a trip up to K'roy to fit a new water tank. I've got a 10acre block up there that we were always going to retire on, but it hasn't happened so its rented out. The original steel tank started leaking, but as I'd already bought a new plastic tank there wasn't a lot of urgency. I ordered another plastic tank and after the rally car I went up with my brother. First up was to cut the tank smaller, it was 4M wide by 2M high, and was full of thirty years of mud! It took 7 discs to cut around it,but we finally got the top off. We couldn't budge it, so out with a rope and the KE70! Nope, also fail! So we pushed stuff under it, starting with a crowbar and working up to a long length of timber until we had unstuck it from the several layers of tarpaper it had glued itself to.

Here's the wiring diagram- Once I had the relay wired in it was easier to hook it up. The 12V ignition live is already there, that powers the relay switch, and it earths out through the thermoswitch. That's the terminal in the next relay plug as I couldn't have that going to earth. Main power from the alternator I took from my headlight mods a few years back, and then it goes out to the fan motor through the only terminal inside the relay box. As my box lies down where the battery used to be, it will be at the bottom of a stock relay box. I kept the fan plug and just used a strip connector to wire power in and earth out to a handy spot on the thermostat housing. It all tidied up reasonably and it works when I short out the thermoswitch wire. When I'm keen I'll take the rad cap off and stick in a 110deg thermometer, then leave the motor idling until the fan starts. Firing it up the first time and I was amazed how much quieter it was! The fan adds a lot of roar to the background noise. That's where the extra 20bhp comes from! True story! http://phystutor.tripod.com/stang/fans.html :laff:

Originally I'd been chasing thermoswitches at the wreckers too, for that drain hole at the bottom of the rad. No such luck, that drain is only 10mm and the switches were all bigger. Plan B moved it to the top, into the vacuum switch hole on the thermostat housing. Naturally this was 3/8, and everything 3/8 at Tridon is 3/8Gas while the KE70 uses 3/8NPT. 3/8Gas, also known as BSP, (British Standard Pipe) has 19threads/inch, while NPT has 18tpi. We decided this was not a big deal, some sealant would help and NPT is National Pipe Taper, so it would tighten up sooner or later. I bought a TFS111 for $30something dollars, it opens at 90-95deg, hotter than most as it will be at the top of the rad. Its a single-wire, so it can only earth the relay. http://www.tridon.com.au/Products/Product.aspx?SG=8&S=35&G=483&P=2014 The relay was the final component, and as I wanted to keep the wiring as stock as possible I thought I'd use the KE70 relay box. I found a relay that fitted the plug labeled “radiator fan” but it was 'normally closed'. I needed a 'normally open', so it closed when the thermoswitch went to earth and the relay fed power to the fan. This opened up days and days of research into the many relays and generations of plugs, with the final final answer being that.... there is no 'normally open' relay that fits a KE70 relay plug! KE70s are the first of the relay-box systems, where earlier cars just had random relays around the engine bay and later ones had mini-relays (then micro-relays) in printed circuit boxes. That funny black box is a mechanical monstrosity, made of layers of 2mm plastic sheet with strips of aluminium running around between them. This was all to take power from a wire to a relay or fuse and back to another wire without ever crossing a third one. So I grabbed a NO mini-relay from a late 80s Camry and wired it to a relay plug in the KE70 box. Nope, every relay plug has one terminal going to earth, and with a single-pole thermoswitch I need all 4 wires live at some point. I ended up wiring two relay plugs to the new relay, and being unused by the factory it was easy to find 3 unused wires and a 12V ignition supply. However this meant ages tracing every contact in the box to see where it went and make sure it didn't join something else. The wrecker 'donated' a box to me that I ripped apart and worked from. You can see that some of the wiring loomb comes inside the relay box, while other plugs are 'outside' under a rubber boot. I ended up using three terminals on the factory “radiator fan” relay, and one on the un-named relay plug beside it. The Camry mini-relay just sits there, its the perfect size and can't move around.

First, a donor car- Down at the wreckers I looked through his caravan full of electric fans, but they were all old junk. I searched through the cars until I found one with a modern narrow flat motor, in a Mazda 121 that was just the right size. I bought that and a set of brand-new looking KE70 front brake hoses, and a pair of rear shocks for $20, so I don't know what the actual fan was worth. I trimmed the plastic surround back until it sat 10mm off the rad and put the long arm over the rad drain plug. I'd planned on using that plug hole for a thermoswitch, but this was plan C or maybe D already. The fan had sat in holes with pins in the Mazda, but I'd turned it sideways & made a long bracket for the pins, and the 4th attachment was a piece of alloy too. An extra hole in the rad frame made sure that mount couldn't turn.

Buying a gold XX flat-front (the Golden Girl) gave rise to a few changes in ideas for The Girl's KE70, also known by her (wryly, I suspect) as The Blue Beast... Both made in 1983, the flat-front had a problem which showed as having new plugs, new leads, new dizzycap, points etc.. So someone had been chasing the misfire it had when it started every morning. Also, it had a new radiator... Instant answer! The rad had died, the engine over-heated and the head gasket is weeping. Chasing this around, I found the water pump bearings were ratshit and it had a rigid fan. Leaving the Toyota factory some 6months later, The Beast as a slanty had a silicon fan. So the Golden Girl was fitted with The Beast's silicon fan and water pump and I bought a new pump to put on the slanty. I was about to finally fit the electric fan I'd been planning to for ages! It was also time I had the frame soldered back onto The Beast's radiator, the chassis flexing had worked it off a year back and I'd just put a piece of wire across the back of the rad to hold it in place! So out with the rad and into it!

OK, so long as the PCV seals under vacuum, otherwise it will leak air into the manfold at idle. At idle the PCV should be closed and fumes go into the air cleaner via that second vent. When you accelerate the air flow reverses. Is the idle mixture screw turned in & out until you get maximum rpm on a hot motor?? I usually leave it on the "inwards' side of max rpm. Ignition timing, idle speed screw, float level and choke all affect it.

What happens at 100kph? or going up hills??

If you were idling, which is the most likely time for the fan to come on, you might hear it. I've just removed the fan from my 4K and the silence is quite noticeable! I don't expect it to come on at 100kph, and you wouldn't hear it anyway. If you're worried, get a 110deg thermometer, take off the rad cap and put the thermometer in. Start the motor and leave it idling. You could time it on a watch, as you will see the temp suddenly go up as the thermostat opens, then slowly climb over 80deg, and the fan should come on around 95deg. You could note the point where the gauge needle is at important temperatures, mainly when the thermostat just opens, and halfway between that and 100deg. The pressure of the radiator cap will mean it won't boil until over 100deg normally, so you have some flexibility if the fan comes on at 95. If the water is getting to 98 and the fan hasn't come on, turn it off and have the fan system checked.

What PCV setup do you have on it?

Well, you work it out.. it has a thermostat to make sure it heats up quickly... It has a fire in each cylinder at over 1000deg C Why would you be touching an engine anyway... haven't you got a girlfriend? So, does the temperature gauge show its over halfway?? Does a thermometer in the radiaitor show it goes over 90deg when idling?? Have you any scientific or engineering facts to back up this assertion? -------------------------------------- Actually, to put it in context, my 1994 Sentra would be up to running temperature within a Km of starting it in the morning, and I'm sure cars have got better at heating up faster in those 20years. A cold engine is a bad engine! More wear, more atmospheric pollution, more fuel used.

Can you dilute it well with fresh fuel? The best part of the petrol does evaporate over 6months and the heavier fraction left behind does not fire as well.

How many times did you start it?? Just once?? Did it run on faster than the starter motor? The clicking sound could be the solenoid running on a flat battery and not being able to supply enough current for the starter to turn..

Nah- unless there is a lot of rust inside the fuel flap just bog it! Its so easy to get a welding distortion in the side like that, then you'll use more bog on that than you would just filling the non-structural rust hole!

I've re-used them dry, or often put a smear of grease on each side. Too complicated to put a sealant on, you don't want silicon sticking in those holes.

Does the SU have the choke fitted and pulling the jet down? There is no pump jet so they will run very lean at starting rpm. Try taking the red flexible hose off and spraying engine start in there. That would bypass the turbo and confirm that all other systems are working OK. You could try tow-starting it as cranking speed is very low and once it is running you mght find a turning problem. Stick a few degrees of advance on too, if the total advance worries you don't take it over 2000rpm when its running until you've sorted everything out.

Anything is better than the Govt getting rght behind it and making out that they are responsible for Australia being the wondeful country that it is... Worship the flag adn you worship them! They definately don't believe that a country's culture is a product of private citizens doing what they they want, and would rather have Govt-sponsored culture that ends with statues of Lenin everywhere. I would be a great day for Govt to not be allowed to spend a dollar, so all politicians & public servants, all quangoes all subsidised companies and all beneficiaries give up a day's pay, ABC shuts down and we hear nothing from The State while we enjoy ourselves! What is "Australia"?? An island that is defined by a Govt's wishes as a country that they control? or an island that is defined by the interests, lifestyles and actions of the people who live there, quite independent of the Govt?? makes me cringe... /rant!

Yes, but don't use a ballast resistor or the red will feed your dizzy only 9V. That's why mine is on the key-side (12V feed) of the ballast resistor.

My electronic one has two wires, one red, one black. Red goes to ignition, so I have it on the key side of the ballast resistor. Black goes to coil -ve. A stock mechanical ignition just has one wire, which goes to coil -ve.

Dead right! ...as I found when I pulled one apart at the wreckers this morning. Thankyou Sir! So all the wiring is where it should be under the relays, but the plugs from the loombs have empty ports. I found the earlier Camrys (maybe late 80s-early 90s) have similar relays, while the later ones have new designs. Sadly the one I purloined is 'normally closed', and I need a 'normally open'. I'll pop down there again on Monday. Hopefully this project will look more 'factory' than my headlight conversion!

Today I picked up an electric fan (Mazda 121 or similar, newish small hatch) from the wrecker for $5, and $40 worth of thermoswitch. Welll, actually I got a set of new front brake hoses, a pair of rear Monroe GT gas shocks and the fan for $20. Having mounted the fan on the rad I was working out where to put the relay, and found that there is a space for one in the KE70 relay box! So some KEs must have had one! The big question is... does anyone know which wire to hack into for the thermoswitch, such that the ignition/relay/fan wiring retains as much KE70 as possible. Meantime, I'll go look at the KE70 wiring diagram. Writeup to follow....

Its a Govt Dept... They're not paid to be efficient, accurate or correct. The public is always wrong. What's worse, seeing your car obviously doesn't exist, they will revoke that non-registration you use and you will have to prove it is a '76. Probably the cars were not sold, or at least put on the roads here until '76, and yours was made late in '75.

Excellent- first thing is to pull off the wires on the coil +ve and the ballast resistor +ve and make sure that the coil gets power when you turn the key to crank it over, and the ballast gets power when you just have the key on 'ignition'. Run the negative wire of the tester straight to the body somewhere to earth it. Then both of those wires go to the +ve of your new coil. Once you can confirm power to the coil +ve, hook it up and check the coil -ve for 12V to earth, then with it all hooked up and the points open, check 12V to earth on the points arm. If the points are closed you won't get a voltage reading as it goes straight through them to earth.

Ah- you definately do have wiring problems! OK, the "R" on the coil name stands for 'resistor', and that would have been a 9V coil. Without the 'R', the coil will be 12V. So you will have to run both the 'start' ignition wire that is on the coil +ve normally, and the "run" ignition wire that is on the ballast resistor normnally, both to your coil positive. This is because the 'start' wire feeds 12V to the 9V coil when cranking, so the coil works at 100% efficiency under the reduced voltage from the starter motor load. Then when it starts the ballast resistor drops the coil feed to 9V and just dumps the other 3V out as heat. Your new coil will run at 12V when driving, but struggle a bit when starting under 8 or 9volts. Not that it will worry you, I expect it will be fine for years yet. Now, the temp gauge wire is earthing out if the gauge goes to 'hot' when the motor is not running. I have a feeling it is on the oil pressure sender unit, as that goes to earth when the motor is off. Find the temp sender wire and trace it. On both my cars it is yellow-green on the temp sender, and yellow-black on the oil pressure sender. Those wires join into a loomb behind the dizzy.