altezzaclub

I think its a great idea! We're very short of RWD 16valve options after we run out of 4AGEs, and the MX5 ran for many years. Comes with the 6-speed box in the later versions too. Get a build thread started!

I did, but the engineer has since closed down and gone to work for the mine... I'm sure there's some hot builders in Bathurst, I'll ask Rob when I get back to Orange if you PM me in a week to remind me.

Did you hose fuel through the carb drillings when you had the jets out?? I use a syringe to do it, most people blow compressed air through. Shit will build up behind the jets and narrow the arteries, just like cholesterol! The flat spot sound like its still lean under acceleration, so make sure the accelerator pump is squirting a jet of petrol down the carb throat when you open the throttle quickly. It could be dirt under the non-return ball or a rotten diaphram.

Check out what we did here: the one-piece exhaust gasket and make sure the studs and bolts all work fine. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/27374-one-piece-manifold-gasket-who-makes-them-4k/ You can listen for gasket leaks with a bit of 5mm plastic tube in one ear when you first start the motor. Check the 'hotbox' gasket between the inlet manifold and the exhaust manifold, the head to exhaust manifold and finally the exhaust manifold to exhaust pipe. Unless the weather isv ery warm where you are, it should need choke, so maybe its running too rich. Carb float level too high would be a start, shit under the needle seat, or filthy air filter is less likely. Leak in the booster line, or in the booster diaphram. Does the pedal get sucked down when you start it with your foot on the brakes? Pushing on the pedal should momentarily lean it out as it sucks air from the booster, then it goes back to normal. That's normal and it should do that. Covered in un-burnt oil is normal from taking them out of Toyota's abysmally designed head! Covered in black burnt oil is either too rich or poor oil rings. Check how much oil per 1000km it uses. Ideally plugs should be light brown around the middle electrode and black around the outer edge. Take it out for a run, nail it to 80kph and instantly flip it into neutral and turn the key off. Take out the plugs on the roadside and look, that will tell you what they are burning like under power. You can do the same at cruising speed, rather than in the shed at home where you are really just looking at them from idle speed. Grab someone's compression gauge and check the compressions with wide open throttle, and if all cylinders are similar & over 140psi, don't worry about the motor it will go for years!

The correct torque is only 4nm, so you would need to be using a torque wrench when working on your car to get a feeling for that. When I started on the rally car with Steve I put bolts with a few nuts each in the vice and had him tighten them up to the normal torque for each size bolt. Then he checked them with a torque wrench and spent an hour learning how to tighten each diameter bolt up correctly with a ring spanner. This would be a good exercise for anyone who is working on cars. Sadly most of my cars have had precious owners who have been gorillas! Try to get the nuts off with the studs in place if the stud thread is OK, maybe make a little bent fork that you can push the nut down with while you turn it. If not I'd lock two nuts against one another on the stud, just hold the lower one and turn the upper one down onto it then turn the whole stud out as the nuts lock up. If not, there are stud removing tools around. Is the motor out or still in the car? Mine leaks because I'm not going to try to drop the sump and seal it until I take the motor out next, its a dog working under there.

How low do you want to take it?? Just cut the rear springs with a grinder if you're only taking a coil off. Those technotoy springs won't fit correctly as your KE70 springs are cut at one end (which is why you can easily cut another coil off) while the technos are ground flat at both ends They won't sit in your spring base correctly. Spend a few hours at a wrecking yard with a tape measure and a set of calipers measuing what is there. The wrecking yards basically give springs away for free, or maybe a few beers. A KE70 is not worth paying AE86 prices for parts! Your problem with coilovers is that you will carry the weight (and stress) on the KE70's shock absober mounts, and they will probably fail.

Well, I will admit I've never seen that before! At least now you know how to put it on properly.. Still, even if it came off the crank it wouldn't go anywhere, its held in place by the gearbox input shaft and you'd lose drive to the g'box. instantly.

oooohh..... I see ! 50ft.lb or so I think they should be, same as a head bolt.

The old trick was to stick your ear onto the handle of the biggest screwdriver you owned and press the blade onto different parts of the engine. That helped pin the noise down, it cuts out all the background chatter a motor makes. There is so much noise in the video I don't know which one you're worried about! Loose flywheels should be pretty rare, and they should stop making a noise if you press the clutch down. Did it backfired badly before the noise? We had fuel fumes in the crankcase blow up one day and it bent the splash guard inside the tappet cover down onto a cam lobe, making a terrible knocking sound every time that lobe came around. Has a tappet shim jumped out? Can you take the top cambelt cover off and run it with a timing light on to see if the noise synchronieses with a cam in a certain place. It weill be interesting to see what does cause it.

Yeah, pull the top off the carby and see what is lurking in there. The fact that it ran great once you'd blown it out suggests a carb problem, rather that than a burnt valve, but perhaps more dirt is getting pulled into the jets. Other than that, I don't know... Is the timing jamming at full advance? Even with the electronic dizzy you are still using the advance weights under the dizzy baseplate. Make sure the dizzy cam turns back and forth easily, just grab the rotor and see if it swings each way..

oooh nice!~ I know what these are! You'll be able to bounce this car like a basketball..

http://www.wrc.com/news/toyota-unveils-new-wrc-eligible-rally-car/?fid=19348 Toyota Motorsport is developing a rally version of the GT86 sports car that will be eligible to compete in the World Rally Championship. The car, known as the TMG GT86 CS-R3, will be built to R3 regulations, with a 2000cc boxer engine, rear-wheel drive and a six-speed sequential gearbox. It will be made available to private competitors, with delivery expected for the 2015 season. The car will be built by Toyota’s german-based motorsport division, Toyota Motorsport GmbH (TMG), the company that masterminded Toyota’s successful WRC programme in the 1980s and 1990s, securing four drivers’ and three manufacturers’ WRC titles. Nico Ehlert, TMG’s principal engineer customer motorsport, said: “Rallying is in our blood at TMG so it is very exciting to announce that we will be expanding our rally operations. The GT86 CS-R3 promises to be a thrilling car on the rally stages; with rear-wheel drive we can expect some dramatic action which is sure to be entertaining for drivers and fans alike.” In a statement, Toyota Motorsport said today’s announcement ‘strengthens TMG’s commitment to customer motorsport and rallying, both of which represent key aspects of its long-term business strategy.’

Read up about it before you lift a spanner to take it apart. The bearing preload is set on the nut that holds the pinion in, so how much you do it up is important. If you just do it up tight you will ruin the preload and desroy the bearings. Before you take it apart you will need to measure how easily the pinion turns with no driveshaft or load on, and then after you fit the seal you do the nut up to get the same preload. I'm halfway through doing it, but of course I pulled it apart before measuring the preload so will measure it on my spare diff. Education is expensive...

Very nice! Clean the spokes of the Hurricanes off for a bit of contrast, I have a set in gold that look much better since I did that. I like the black window trim, also on my list to do so its nice to see how it turns out. Such a shame Toyota never released the car like this! 4AGE, sports suspension, T50, LSD...

We were down at the BMSC Tumut rally. The Stanza is the Stanford one, the white one here that's number 10- http://action2image.photoshelter.com/gallery/Tumut-Valley-Rally-2013/G00008.T88bQjVS0/

I picked up a pair of O2 sensore from a Commode at the wreckers for the Jaycar mixture display. Its narrowband and reads from 11 through to 20. You're probably right that the sensor is stuffed, you should definately be reading rich under accceleration. I also find it takes a minute or two to warm up and start reading correctly. Then its lean for deceleration, 18-20 or just "L", cruise is about 16-18, slight acceleration is 14.7 and hard acceleration is 12 or so.

haha! Strange you should mention that, I've just been thinking the same thing. I don't think we can do a job like TRDKE70's though...

So... do you reckon the cage added 50% more weight? We looked over a gent's immaculate Stanza at yesterday's rally, and he said its done 61rallies in the umpteen years he been driving it! I couldn't believe it, everything was just so neat and clean and straight and tidy and ... like yours and the opposite to ours! Those extinguishers in? I moved one of ours to under the navigator's knees so we can always access at least one, front or rear.

Naturally they couldn't excape without some garden work, I needed a bean frame pipe welded. After the usual arguments about who was the best welder, it was shared! Then into the Slowdeo and a 550km drive up to Walcha. Meanwhile, I'm in for a quiet afternoon in the garden and an early night! ... then the plans for going faster start!

Well, that wasn't too bad.. Pete couldn't come as he was feeling crook, so he'd loaned us his Slowdeo and a mate of Steve's came to do service. Up at 5am Saturday to drive the 300Km to Tumut, arrived in time to catch half the driver's briefing, and straight into the hot seat. Seeing he hadn't driven it since rolling it in May he was taking it easy, a good idea as it was a high-speed blast around wide smooth roads in the mountain forests. Sadly not suited to The Big Girl, flatout in 5th is not her scene. Still, Steve ran around 16th for most of it, then the terratrip died halfway through a stage and there was still another stage to refuel. We couldn't find anything wrong with either probe and put it down to overheating, and sure enough it was working again for the next stage. It dropped him to 19th there but he finished at 14th overall, with not a mark on the car. Amazing really, all that wiring and rebuilding worked perfectly! We had a beer afterwards and grabbed the results, then I hauled the Slowdeo back up to Orange and we hit the pit at about 1am. Took a 'roo on the way back, they are Aussies greatest road danger, but luckily the Boss' ute didn't get marked. Yet another new navigator, but this time he is really good. Josh has driven in motorsport as well as navigated before, so maybe now we can really get organised!

He was even allowed to take it for a paddock-bash before it went on the trailer. No Mothership this time, so we're rolling with a borrowed trailer and a borrowed ute... They headed off to scrutiny while the Girl's KE70 headed off to gate-opening duty for the big truck. ..and I'd better post this and make a move to Orange. We will see how tomorrow goes!

Well, travel day has arrived! Amazingly its as good as what we can get it in the time... The Big Girl may be battle-scarred and pretty rough, but she's a goer! The inside is just what I wanted, plain and simple, and lightweight.

Then we got distracted because Nell ran out of water in the farmhouse. She takes water from the high tank on the woolshed, beside the workshop. That only fills from the high roof, so the two tanks that fill from the main roof don't get used. We took her pump off the windmill well and pumped the water from the low tanks up onto the high roof and let it fill her tank. Nothing like a couple of radiator hoses to make things work, although the pump did suck the intake one flat! So by the late afternoon we had one door and one guard on, and in a stroke of genius I donated The Girl's dash-mat for this rally to make the dash look more civilised... Inside I had managed to get all the wiring AND the lights working, so we have an oil pressure gauge, a water temp gauge, (both are capillary direct-readings) ) an ammeter, an oil pressure/ water overtemp combined light and a charge light... information overload for a rally driver, they can't handle complicated things.... Today we finished the assembly, and although there is more I'd like to do, it has to be in Tamworth for scrutiny in the morning and in Orange by tomorrow night! I'll get pics before we load it....

Well, back up here almost a week now! Fought my way through the piles of KE70s all waiting to become paddock bashers and spent more hours on the re-wire. We have to leave tomorrow for a rally on saturday 850km away in Tumut, and yesterday morning it looked like this... We had just got the motor and box in on Tuesday, and fitted the bumper and spots. I needed the motor in to chase the instruments and find out if the highly modified wiring actually worked. The usual indicators/horn/wipers were all easy, but the engine stuff had changed. The first problem was that out temp gauge woldn't screw into the head, the probe was too long. We found a spacer in an odd place... That was cut down to a few mm and fitted. The gauge is an adjustable warning type, so it earths out a light and a buzzer at whatever temperature you pick. Inside I was proceeding at snail's pace, it was taking forever to re-route the stock wiring and modify relays and stuff to do new functions.

Yep! Most interesting.... I would reckon a 33 would out-perform a 28 too, but there is always more to it than just the size. Seeing we've been pumping water around the farm I'm thinking of a home-made engine dyno... it doesn't matter what it says in absolute terms, its just for comparisons exactly as you did.