altezzaclub

What else is wrong?? Had a compression test done?? It may be ready for rings and bearings, or a bit of porting and a better carb setup while you have the head off.

4-2-1 move the power lower, better for rallying. I haven't seen any for sale recently, they all seem to be 4-1.

lol- the list just keeps on growing! The joys of buying a old car... I can't remember if the stud goes ito the coolant, but it shouldn't leak anyway. Once you've caught up with the coolant things should be sweet for you.

Fit two and use sealant! Has the exhaust flange been bent slightly from being tightened up too much?? That would close the corners in and not clamp in the middle.

Well, its all very straightforward- bluntly, its not going to work! Look up lLoyd's build, he has done everything you want to do. You can PM hm and have a chat, but I can't see you using a car like that as a daily. Seeing I do 1000 or 2000km trips every month or two in mine, I can tell you than some things are to be avoided- mainly Low profile tyres, anything below 60series just crashes into potholes and whatever on Aussie's pathetic roads and destroys rims. Low hard springs, for exactly the same reason, after 6hours in a car you really feel it, it pounds you to pieces! Noisy exhausts, which always come with modding cars but deafen you after hours of a droning roar. If you want a drifter, you can do it with a 4AGE and still manage to get that on the road legally. It won't be a good drift car, and it won't be a good road car, but it will be the sort of compromise young guys put up with for 6months before they flog it off. The black window trims look good, I must get on and do mine!

Ah, but this way we all get to see how good the product is! Nothing is worse than buying something brand new and finding it doesn't do what it was sold to do! The blue ones also need some work, I did it here- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/#entry445764

I paid $215 from the local exhaust shop in Orange. The usual blue ones, Pacemakers I think they are.

I think its a great idea! We're very short of RWD 16valve options after we run out of 4AGEs, and the MX5 ran for many years. Comes with the 6-speed box in the later versions too. Get a build thread started!

I did, but the engineer has since closed down and gone to work for the mine... I'm sure there's some hot builders in Bathurst, I'll ask Rob when I get back to Orange if you PM me in a week to remind me.

Did you hose fuel through the carb drillings when you had the jets out?? I use a syringe to do it, most people blow compressed air through. Shit will build up behind the jets and narrow the arteries, just like cholesterol! The flat spot sound like its still lean under acceleration, so make sure the accelerator pump is squirting a jet of petrol down the carb throat when you open the throttle quickly. It could be dirt under the non-return ball or a rotten diaphram.

Check out what we did here: the one-piece exhaust gasket and make sure the studs and bolts all work fine. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/27374-one-piece-manifold-gasket-who-makes-them-4k/ You can listen for gasket leaks with a bit of 5mm plastic tube in one ear when you first start the motor. Check the 'hotbox' gasket between the inlet manifold and the exhaust manifold, the head to exhaust manifold and finally the exhaust manifold to exhaust pipe. Unless the weather isv ery warm where you are, it should need choke, so maybe its running too rich. Carb float level too high would be a start, shit under the needle seat, or filthy air filter is less likely. Leak in the booster line, or in the booster diaphram. Does the pedal get sucked down when you start it with your foot on the brakes? Pushing on the pedal should momentarily lean it out as it sucks air from the booster, then it goes back to normal. That's normal and it should do that. Covered in un-burnt oil is normal from taking them out of Toyota's abysmally designed head! Covered in black burnt oil is either too rich or poor oil rings. Check how much oil per 1000km it uses. Ideally plugs should be light brown around the middle electrode and black around the outer edge. Take it out for a run, nail it to 80kph and instantly flip it into neutral and turn the key off. Take out the plugs on the roadside and look, that will tell you what they are burning like under power. You can do the same at cruising speed, rather than in the shed at home where you are really just looking at them from idle speed. Grab someone's compression gauge and check the compressions with wide open throttle, and if all cylinders are similar & over 140psi, don't worry about the motor it will go for years!

The correct torque is only 4nm, so you would need to be using a torque wrench when working on your car to get a feeling for that. When I started on the rally car with Steve I put bolts with a few nuts each in the vice and had him tighten them up to the normal torque for each size bolt. Then he checked them with a torque wrench and spent an hour learning how to tighten each diameter bolt up correctly with a ring spanner. This would be a good exercise for anyone who is working on cars. Sadly most of my cars have had precious owners who have been gorillas! Try to get the nuts off with the studs in place if the stud thread is OK, maybe make a little bent fork that you can push the nut down with while you turn it. If not I'd lock two nuts against one another on the stud, just hold the lower one and turn the upper one down onto it then turn the whole stud out as the nuts lock up. If not, there are stud removing tools around. Is the motor out or still in the car? Mine leaks because I'm not going to try to drop the sump and seal it until I take the motor out next, its a dog working under there.

How low do you want to take it?? Just cut the rear springs with a grinder if you're only taking a coil off. Those technotoy springs won't fit correctly as your KE70 springs are cut at one end (which is why you can easily cut another coil off) while the technos are ground flat at both ends They won't sit in your spring base correctly. Spend a few hours at a wrecking yard with a tape measure and a set of calipers measuing what is there. The wrecking yards basically give springs away for free, or maybe a few beers. A KE70 is not worth paying AE86 prices for parts! Your problem with coilovers is that you will carry the weight (and stress) on the KE70's shock absober mounts, and they will probably fail.

Well, I will admit I've never seen that before! At least now you know how to put it on properly.. Still, even if it came off the crank it wouldn't go anywhere, its held in place by the gearbox input shaft and you'd lose drive to the g'box. instantly.

oooohh..... I see ! 50ft.lb or so I think they should be, same as a head bolt.

The old trick was to stick your ear onto the handle of the biggest screwdriver you owned and press the blade onto different parts of the engine. That helped pin the noise down, it cuts out all the background chatter a motor makes. There is so much noise in the video I don't know which one you're worried about! Loose flywheels should be pretty rare, and they should stop making a noise if you press the clutch down. Did it backfired badly before the noise? We had fuel fumes in the crankcase blow up one day and it bent the splash guard inside the tappet cover down onto a cam lobe, making a terrible knocking sound every time that lobe came around. Has a tappet shim jumped out? Can you take the top cambelt cover off and run it with a timing light on to see if the noise synchronieses with a cam in a certain place. It weill be interesting to see what does cause it.

Yeah, pull the top off the carby and see what is lurking in there. The fact that it ran great once you'd blown it out suggests a carb problem, rather that than a burnt valve, but perhaps more dirt is getting pulled into the jets. Other than that, I don't know... Is the timing jamming at full advance? Even with the electronic dizzy you are still using the advance weights under the dizzy baseplate. Make sure the dizzy cam turns back and forth easily, just grab the rotor and see if it swings each way..

oooh nice!~ I know what these are! You'll be able to bounce this car like a basketball..

http://www.wrc.com/news/toyota-unveils-new-wrc-eligible-rally-car/?fid=19348 Toyota Motorsport is developing a rally version of the GT86 sports car that will be eligible to compete in the World Rally Championship. The car, known as the TMG GT86 CS-R3, will be built to R3 regulations, with a 2000cc boxer engine, rear-wheel drive and a six-speed sequential gearbox. It will be made available to private competitors, with delivery expected for the 2015 season. The car will be built by Toyota’s german-based motorsport division, Toyota Motorsport GmbH (TMG), the company that masterminded Toyota’s successful WRC programme in the 1980s and 1990s, securing four drivers’ and three manufacturers’ WRC titles. Nico Ehlert, TMG’s principal engineer customer motorsport, said: “Rallying is in our blood at TMG so it is very exciting to announce that we will be expanding our rally operations. The GT86 CS-R3 promises to be a thrilling car on the rally stages; with rear-wheel drive we can expect some dramatic action which is sure to be entertaining for drivers and fans alike.” In a statement, Toyota Motorsport said today’s announcement ‘strengthens TMG’s commitment to customer motorsport and rallying, both of which represent key aspects of its long-term business strategy.’

Read up about it before you lift a spanner to take it apart. The bearing preload is set on the nut that holds the pinion in, so how much you do it up is important. If you just do it up tight you will ruin the preload and desroy the bearings. Before you take it apart you will need to measure how easily the pinion turns with no driveshaft or load on, and then after you fit the seal you do the nut up to get the same preload. I'm halfway through doing it, but of course I pulled it apart before measuring the preload so will measure it on my spare diff. Education is expensive...

Very nice! Clean the spokes of the Hurricanes off for a bit of contrast, I have a set in gold that look much better since I did that. I like the black window trim, also on my list to do so its nice to see how it turns out. Such a shame Toyota never released the car like this! 4AGE, sports suspension, T50, LSD...

We were down at the BMSC Tumut rally. The Stanza is the Stanford one, the white one here that's number 10- http://action2image.photoshelter.com/gallery/Tumut-Valley-Rally-2013/G00008.T88bQjVS0/

I picked up a pair of O2 sensore from a Commode at the wreckers for the Jaycar mixture display. Its narrowband and reads from 11 through to 20. You're probably right that the sensor is stuffed, you should definately be reading rich under accceleration. I also find it takes a minute or two to warm up and start reading correctly. Then its lean for deceleration, 18-20 or just "L", cruise is about 16-18, slight acceleration is 14.7 and hard acceleration is 12 or so.

haha! Strange you should mention that, I've just been thinking the same thing. I don't think we can do a job like TRDKE70's though...

So... do you reckon the cage added 50% more weight? We looked over a gent's immaculate Stanza at yesterday's rally, and he said its done 61rallies in the umpteen years he been driving it! I couldn't believe it, everything was just so neat and clean and straight and tidy and ... like yours and the opposite to ours! Those extinguishers in? I moved one of ours to under the navigator's knees so we can always access at least one, front or rear.