altezzaclub

oh.. I thought is was for a square spare wheel! Does it get baffled? or are the flexible bags just open inside? I suppose they are full of some porous foam to stop the fuel sloshing...

Yeah, strip them both and clean them. Get a 10ml syringe without a needle from the chemist and push petrol through all the little drillings you can find, then hit them with an air gun if you have a compressor. Look out for non-return ball bearings in the pump jets, don't lose them. After the episode with the mudwasp on the rally car Webers, make sure the hose and connections between the carbs are clean too.

PM me your email address Luke & I'll email it. I think it loses resolution on the forum. Its not the best scan to start with, just something I found on the net myself. My Gregorys manual only has the headlight circuit, typically useless of them.

That is certainly where the last ones melted under the wrap Luke, each pipe heating up the one beside it. These one's I'll watch for the paint suffering, they seem fine so far. I thought the last ones failed from 100kph lean runs up hills, but actually hauling a big load slowly up forest tracks at full throttle in 2nd gear was probably much worse for them.

Unless you bought the jets new, swap all the jets just in case someone in the past drilled them. Swap the needle and seats over while you're at it. If the richness move to the second carb, swap stuff back one set at a time. Check that the chokes are held firm in the throats, that can be a problem. When you say the floats are the same, does that mean when you pop the tops off the fuel level in each carb is the same?? Especially if you do an ignition cut as the motor pulls really hard at 3000rpm. If one carb, (two chokes) are both too rich then fuel level is likely. If it has a flat spot as the main jets take over, the idles might be too big. That 55 should run a 2L, but that's not the reason only one carb is rich.

Well, that went fine, another couple of thousand Km added at 100kph in the boring bits and lots of fun in the Great Dividing Range. Again the fuel was similar, under 7L/100 for the straight bits and around 7.0 to 7.5 for more fun. Both boring bits were on non-ethanol 95 or 98, and maybe it helps a little. I did notice that when we changed from Caltex 95 to United's 95+ethanol it immediately picked up a lean hunt that I had to richen a fraction to get rid of. The oxy sensors went from just showing "L" at cruise to 18-20, but its not a good comparison when one is a road full of 25-65kph corners in winding mountain forests! Orange-Armidale 560km of 50:50 winding and open 7.9L/100 on United 95 Armidale- Kingaroy 590km of staightish road 6.6L/100 on local 98. (probably Caltex) Kingaroy-Casino 460km of straightish road 6.7L/100 on Caltex 95 Casino-Tamworth 400km of winding road 7.4L/100 on United 95 Tamworth- Orange 430Km of winding and open 7.2L/100 on United 95. We always use less coming back from Tamworth to Orange than going North... very odd. Anyway, I taped the webcam under the bonnet and ran the laptop as The Girl drove for a while, taking single shots and movies as she went up hills. With the sunshine on the road you can easily see the extractors, but when in shadow you can see the pipes glow. I had to lighten that photo so it looks grainy. So, is this standard for cars with extractors?? Would anyone else like to try with a webcam??

Ah, if you want to register it, check with the RTA or whatever WA uses first to see if it is at all possible. Then as Reed says, chat to your local engineer. If it is at all allowed then you'll need an engineer to certify it, and he will tell you what else you will need to do in the way of suspension and brakes. I think a mate of Steve's paid more for engineering certification for a 4AGE into his KE70 than he paid for the KE70 itself! People talk in multiples of thousands for engineers to sign a piece of paper. One of the first things would be to see how the sump of the possible new motors fit, as changing the KE70 crossmember and steering rack would bring a whole new level of compexity.

Nice jig Rob, you should make them for other people! As Dave says, knock up something like that and tack the mounts on, then get someone to weld it up. A good MIG is much better than an old arc welder and it will be plenty strong enough.

Use the gearbox it came with, I asume a Supra. Strip the KE70 bay and hang it in there to see where you can fit it, obviously the further back the better. Seeing it won't be registered you could take a grinder to the firewall and stick the extra two cylinders under the dash, which is what I did with a Datsun rally car many years back. The mounts are easy to fabricate, you'll have more trouble with electrics and gauges, findng a big enough radiator, and making the exhaust fit. Keep us up to date, it should be fun.

Ah, education is expensive! So now you're saving for some stands and an engine hoist... well worth buying when you're young, tools like that will make it easier for all your life! With the AE71 gear there you're halway to a 4AGE conversion already.

If you drive around town a lot, get a cam under 275deg and bike carbs or SUs, they will give you better zip low down. Webers with small chokes would do that too. If you are out in the 100kph and want top end take the cam up to 280deg or so and run a DCOE Weber or two to make it work at the 6000rpm end. I've got inch and 1/4 SUs, smaller than most guys who use inch & 1/2, and a Crow 606 cam that's 270deg. This makes it go from 2000rpm and I only take it up to 5000, but I wanted the better mid-range rather than the top end. It cruises at 100kph and overtakes fine with the extractors and head job, & a lightened flywheel. The build thread is here- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/ Next time I'll bore it out as much as I can and go for bike carbs to see what the difference is. I'd like to lighten the crank too. The cam will cost $150-$200, get the followers ground too. Extractors are $215, a new exhaust to finish it will be several hundred. Mine is 2" then inch & 3/4. Carbs & manifold a few hundrd to a thousand dollars. One guy on here is keen to make mo'bike manifolds for us. Lighten the flywheel $100. Lightening the crank probably more. Then balance the whole bottom end for about $150. Get the valves cleaned up, port the head to match the manifold & skim it 20thou Go have fun...

What carb setup are you planning?? Single DCOE, twins, 32/36 d'draught, Mukini quads?? Get that sorted and build the motor around that. Cams are easy to find, extractors also, so just bore it as big as you can and skim the head for some higher compression. Get used to the cost of 98octane going up and up if you raise it very much! kickn5K should have the engineering for you, but let us know what you do and how it goes.

Paying $2 is just as much hassle as paying $20, I'd go against a lot of tiny payments. Cruises are fine for the big cities, I assume that's where most members are too. All us country bumpkins would not make it... Altezzaclub runs with a VIP section. Ordinary membership is free, or you pay $30 for a lifetime VIP membership with some trinkets supplied (1/4widow stickers, plate spacers) and it gives you access to the VIP Lounge forum and discounts with sponsors. The discounts make the $30 very cheap the moment you buy some aftermarket performance part. That has worked for the last 10years, it pays for space on Invisionfree. I don't belong to Toymods because their joining process is too involved and they want too much information, but I'm on Club-K, AE86DC and BMSC. There are a lot of ways to run a forum site and some grow, some die. I'd happily pay a one-off $30 to Rollaclub, it is a great site.

Well done guys! We sat it out in the Woolshed, hopefully to have the car ready for the rallysprint down there later this month. Great video!! All 2nd-3rd-4th from the look of it, so all those other gears are wasted! Up for a 5.1diff??

Some motors had one thinner bolt as they used that chamber to pump oil up to the head, but I didn't think K's had that.

Got power at the coil?? or the starter solenoid? Have you sorted the wiring of the cutout switch at the gearlever??

It shouldn't, the throttle axle goes through the middle of the throttle plates so there is no tendency for the air flow (or the inlet vacuum) to suck them open or closed. Apart from the weight of the throttle linkages I can't think of anything that would open a throttle by itself. It will be interesting to see what causes it in the end.

For that price you can't go wrong! I've seen far worse ones sold for more, so you should get a great machine out of it.

Find out what is holding it open- Could be something external in a linkage, or a mis-aligned/loose throttle plate.. I dunno, find it first and then tackle it.

There are pretty self-explanatory- Blowing up Grumpy's motor doing burnouts with a full tank of 98... can't leave that in there- ...and I sorted Nell's Datsun 1300 ute after they mis-fitted a new carb so it couldn't have the throttle cable fitting AND a stock air cleaner, it had to be one of the other! ..and his little bro & I stole a 4K straight out of a paddock-basher he'd just bought and he never knew until he went to start it. THAT classic is on a phone video I must get my hands on! Happy 21st mate !!! Enjoy the day!

Next time it happens just kill the ignition and brake to a stop without touching the throttle, then take a look at it all to see if one carb is still open and not closed to idle. For the motor to race it needs more air and enough fuel, so if it is sporadically leaking just air through the brake booster line or similar it will lean out. The only way to get fuel and air together is past the throttle plate really.

Well, nothing on the car really, except another couple of thousand Km up to work on the rally car and visit my bro in Coolies. That's 5 full tanks and it went like this. Black dots, Orange- Tamworth on United's 95octane E10 7.5L/100 Red dots Tamworth- Casino on Caltex 95 7.5L/100 Yellow dots Casino-Coolangatta and back on Matilda 95 E10 7.1L/100 Green dots Casino down to Walcha on United's 95E10 8.6L/100 Black dots Walcha- Orange on caltex 98 7.2L/100 So there's not much in it, I reckon the bad run from Casino down was the massive headwind that day and I was going more the 110kph than the 100. They're all about 500km, so a good day's drive. I took the air inlet off and the flap while watching the mixture going up, so a few tanks have gone through without it and it seems to make no difference. The reason for it really lies in hot summer days at low speeds. I'll put a new pinion oil seal in the 4.1 T-series I now have and try that next. I'm only home for two days then back up to Queensland, Kingaroy for some work on a rental house, over to Coolangatta and down to Armidale to drop the girl at UNE, then home again.

Its the POWAAH.... If the pedal goes soft at that time then something is holding the throttles open, but if it doesn't then its quite likely something else entirely. I'm sure you have opened and closed the throttle carefully while watching the carb linkages... There are no sticky points anywhere from idle to wide open and back?? Sometimes wear in the axle/housing will jam a little going one way and not the other. Are the two throttles directly connected to the center quadrant with the cable, or can the cable relax back without the throttles closing?? (hence my three springs) How about sticking a webcam under there with a torch and driving with a laptop on the passenger's seat recording it?? If they have been rebuilt it might be worth disconnecting the linkages and checking that each throttle plate closes completely and easily. If the plate is not centered in the axle it can hold the throttle open, but usually that causes a high idle & engine racing.

Yes, you would have to upgrade the diff and gearbox, and the suspension, and then brakes as well for any of those motors. The car would be heavier in the nose and go much to quick to stop easily. I'd settle for a 1600cc if there was a nice twincam with a good gearbox behind it, the 4AGE with the Aisin Altezza 6speed being the best bet. Maybe some 1800cc 4cyl could do it, a bit more torque for hills. The 1300cc of the 4K is fine for cruising at 100kph in The Girl's KE70, but if the hill is steep enough for 3rd gear it will slow to 80kph. It woudn't take much to overcome that problem.

Make sure your head fits up in the little triangle above you, and you can easily get your legs and bum over the side intrusion bar and past the secondary front vertical one. Personally I'm not a fan of that CAMS cage. The one in the rally car will cause the crash by forcing a poor visibility situaton from a bad seating position, and then may keep you alive long enough to burn to death because you can't get out in a hurry.