altezzaclub

My Crow cam came with 16thou specs, and as you've found it was very noisy. I'm running 10 & 12 now, I don't think it is really crucial unless you're racing the car and the gap can be used to adjust the cam timing then, so long as there is a gap when its hot. One tappet is still noisy, I'm sure the rocker is worn away to a groove, its impossible to find without stripping it.

That does look good! Tell us truthfully, how much did you pay for her? I reckon a good four times a KE70 in similar condition, maybe 5 times...

I hear you Reed.. I went down with friends who had to vote, so I harassed the three clowns standing outside giving out pamphlets.. Greens, and Tweedledum and Tweedledee... None of them were impressed when I said they supported slavery and had to coerce people to vote for freedom, the irony was lost. One said if they didn't MAKE people vote then Australia would fall apart, like all those overseas countries... The idea of voluntary taxes was greeted with derision as none of them believed Aussies would give money to pay for their policies. The answer that their policies were obviously rubbish stopped them dead. Once they found out I was a Kiwi its all "Oh you're just here to go on the dole .." "Ah, no, Kiwis aren't eligible for the dole, or for old age pensions, or for any welfare or even student loans, but we pay full taxes" Once I walked away they all had a laugh, and then carried on pretending they were enemies of each other, when its obvious that they are ALL the same & its them against the taxpayers. Parasites, all of them!

2seconds! Well, you know how to get famous... a giant spectacular roll right in front of the camera! Unless you can get a kangaroo to run down the road in front of you when the cameras are around... Good luck- car looks great!

Well, off you all go, you have been ORDERED by your rulers to attend a certain venue within the next ten hours and fill out a form, or THEY VILL PUNISH YOU! So ironic really, all this bullshit about democracy giving you a choice and freedom, yet the FIRST thing they do is force you to vote! That' s all a Govt is for, coercing you into giving up your life for them. Seeing one party loses the election it all goes dead against the current PC nonsense pushed at schools that 'everyone is a winner' , so the only reasonable answer is to do away with elections, save tens of millions of dollars and have the two parties take turn about. Labor was in, now its National's turn, then Labor in four years.. Too bad about the media, the pollsters, the political analysts, the lobbyists.. Nothing to talk about at 'change of Govt' time, their lives worthless, they all committed suicide.

As far as I know the R31 Skylines had a Borgy like the KE70s, and they all whine. You need the minimum weight for something that won't quite blow apart. If you want to go abusing it you'll end up with a big heavy lump pounding up and down in the back of a light car, which won't be good for handling. I'd start with a T-series out of a Ceclia and work upwards as they break.

Nice! Thanks Rian! I'll join it all up in photoshop, its clearer than mine.

oh.. I thought is was for a square spare wheel! Does it get baffled? or are the flexible bags just open inside? I suppose they are full of some porous foam to stop the fuel sloshing...

Yeah, strip them both and clean them. Get a 10ml syringe without a needle from the chemist and push petrol through all the little drillings you can find, then hit them with an air gun if you have a compressor. Look out for non-return ball bearings in the pump jets, don't lose them. After the episode with the mudwasp on the rally car Webers, make sure the hose and connections between the carbs are clean too.

PM me your email address Luke & I'll email it. I think it loses resolution on the forum. Its not the best scan to start with, just something I found on the net myself. My Gregorys manual only has the headlight circuit, typically useless of them.

That is certainly where the last ones melted under the wrap Luke, each pipe heating up the one beside it. These one's I'll watch for the paint suffering, they seem fine so far. I thought the last ones failed from 100kph lean runs up hills, but actually hauling a big load slowly up forest tracks at full throttle in 2nd gear was probably much worse for them.

Unless you bought the jets new, swap all the jets just in case someone in the past drilled them. Swap the needle and seats over while you're at it. If the richness move to the second carb, swap stuff back one set at a time. Check that the chokes are held firm in the throats, that can be a problem. When you say the floats are the same, does that mean when you pop the tops off the fuel level in each carb is the same?? Especially if you do an ignition cut as the motor pulls really hard at 3000rpm. If one carb, (two chokes) are both too rich then fuel level is likely. If it has a flat spot as the main jets take over, the idles might be too big. That 55 should run a 2L, but that's not the reason only one carb is rich.

Well, that went fine, another couple of thousand Km added at 100kph in the boring bits and lots of fun in the Great Dividing Range. Again the fuel was similar, under 7L/100 for the straight bits and around 7.0 to 7.5 for more fun. Both boring bits were on non-ethanol 95 or 98, and maybe it helps a little. I did notice that when we changed from Caltex 95 to United's 95+ethanol it immediately picked up a lean hunt that I had to richen a fraction to get rid of. The oxy sensors went from just showing "L" at cruise to 18-20, but its not a good comparison when one is a road full of 25-65kph corners in winding mountain forests! Orange-Armidale 560km of 50:50 winding and open 7.9L/100 on United 95 Armidale- Kingaroy 590km of staightish road 6.6L/100 on local 98. (probably Caltex) Kingaroy-Casino 460km of straightish road 6.7L/100 on Caltex 95 Casino-Tamworth 400km of winding road 7.4L/100 on United 95 Tamworth- Orange 430Km of winding and open 7.2L/100 on United 95. We always use less coming back from Tamworth to Orange than going North... very odd. Anyway, I taped the webcam under the bonnet and ran the laptop as The Girl drove for a while, taking single shots and movies as she went up hills. With the sunshine on the road you can easily see the extractors, but when in shadow you can see the pipes glow. I had to lighten that photo so it looks grainy. So, is this standard for cars with extractors?? Would anyone else like to try with a webcam??

Ah, if you want to register it, check with the RTA or whatever WA uses first to see if it is at all possible. Then as Reed says, chat to your local engineer. If it is at all allowed then you'll need an engineer to certify it, and he will tell you what else you will need to do in the way of suspension and brakes. I think a mate of Steve's paid more for engineering certification for a 4AGE into his KE70 than he paid for the KE70 itself! People talk in multiples of thousands for engineers to sign a piece of paper. One of the first things would be to see how the sump of the possible new motors fit, as changing the KE70 crossmember and steering rack would bring a whole new level of compexity.

Nice jig Rob, you should make them for other people! As Dave says, knock up something like that and tack the mounts on, then get someone to weld it up. A good MIG is much better than an old arc welder and it will be plenty strong enough.

Use the gearbox it came with, I asume a Supra. Strip the KE70 bay and hang it in there to see where you can fit it, obviously the further back the better. Seeing it won't be registered you could take a grinder to the firewall and stick the extra two cylinders under the dash, which is what I did with a Datsun rally car many years back. The mounts are easy to fabricate, you'll have more trouble with electrics and gauges, findng a big enough radiator, and making the exhaust fit. Keep us up to date, it should be fun.

Ah, education is expensive! So now you're saving for some stands and an engine hoist... well worth buying when you're young, tools like that will make it easier for all your life! With the AE71 gear there you're halway to a 4AGE conversion already.

If you drive around town a lot, get a cam under 275deg and bike carbs or SUs, they will give you better zip low down. Webers with small chokes would do that too. If you are out in the 100kph and want top end take the cam up to 280deg or so and run a DCOE Weber or two to make it work at the 6000rpm end. I've got inch and 1/4 SUs, smaller than most guys who use inch & 1/2, and a Crow 606 cam that's 270deg. This makes it go from 2000rpm and I only take it up to 5000, but I wanted the better mid-range rather than the top end. It cruises at 100kph and overtakes fine with the extractors and head job, & a lightened flywheel. The build thread is here- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/ Next time I'll bore it out as much as I can and go for bike carbs to see what the difference is. I'd like to lighten the crank too. The cam will cost $150-$200, get the followers ground too. Extractors are $215, a new exhaust to finish it will be several hundred. Mine is 2" then inch & 3/4. Carbs & manifold a few hundrd to a thousand dollars. One guy on here is keen to make mo'bike manifolds for us. Lighten the flywheel $100. Lightening the crank probably more. Then balance the whole bottom end for about $150. Get the valves cleaned up, port the head to match the manifold & skim it 20thou Go have fun...

What carb setup are you planning?? Single DCOE, twins, 32/36 d'draught, Mukini quads?? Get that sorted and build the motor around that. Cams are easy to find, extractors also, so just bore it as big as you can and skim the head for some higher compression. Get used to the cost of 98octane going up and up if you raise it very much! kickn5K should have the engineering for you, but let us know what you do and how it goes.

Paying $2 is just as much hassle as paying $20, I'd go against a lot of tiny payments. Cruises are fine for the big cities, I assume that's where most members are too. All us country bumpkins would not make it... Altezzaclub runs with a VIP section. Ordinary membership is free, or you pay $30 for a lifetime VIP membership with some trinkets supplied (1/4widow stickers, plate spacers) and it gives you access to the VIP Lounge forum and discounts with sponsors. The discounts make the $30 very cheap the moment you buy some aftermarket performance part. That has worked for the last 10years, it pays for space on Invisionfree. I don't belong to Toymods because their joining process is too involved and they want too much information, but I'm on Club-K, AE86DC and BMSC. There are a lot of ways to run a forum site and some grow, some die. I'd happily pay a one-off $30 to Rollaclub, it is a great site.

Well done guys! We sat it out in the Woolshed, hopefully to have the car ready for the rallysprint down there later this month. Great video!! All 2nd-3rd-4th from the look of it, so all those other gears are wasted! Up for a 5.1diff??

Some motors had one thinner bolt as they used that chamber to pump oil up to the head, but I didn't think K's had that.

Got power at the coil?? or the starter solenoid? Have you sorted the wiring of the cutout switch at the gearlever??

It shouldn't, the throttle axle goes through the middle of the throttle plates so there is no tendency for the air flow (or the inlet vacuum) to suck them open or closed. Apart from the weight of the throttle linkages I can't think of anything that would open a throttle by itself. It will be interesting to see what causes it in the end.

For that price you can't go wrong! I've seen far worse ones sold for more, so you should get a great machine out of it.