rallydad

Hi All, Been a while since I've been on here as the 'rolla has been gathering dust as other priorities took over. Wondering if anyone can assist with the below. I have found a Lexus J160 6 speed box and intend to purchase SQ Engineering adaptor for 4age. Condition of box unknown, but I do know the clutch assembly including fork and slave cylinder is missing along with shift selector assembly. I understand the J160 box will place the shift lever farther back in the tunnel and there are solutions available to address that and I am willing to play around with adapting another slave cylinder and clutch fork if they are too expensive new. (Any help here?) My question, Is there another shifter that will fit that is readily available on another vehicle. (I can make light modifications if necessary) I am located NSW Mid North Coast so have very limited access to wreckers or people with knowledge on these things. Any help gratefully received and thanks in advance! Cheers

Ah yes that is true.. Think I'll stick with the BP for now.

It has AFM included in loom... Use with custom airbox and I can use standard ECU?

Hi all, Found a complete silvertop 20V 4AGE with loom, ECU and 5 speed RWD gearbox and bellhousing to suit. No clutch, crossmembers or dizzy relocation setup. Assuming it runs well, whats it worth? I have bigport 4age with T50 gearbox currently installed and running well in AE71 club car used on dirt. Is it worth the drama to upgrade? Cheers

Gday AJC, Have you checked shaft wear/play in the dizzy? I have no experience with a dick smith kit but have used electronic 5k van replacement dizzy and found it a huge improvement on my old flogged out 4k points type setup. There was nothing inherently wrong with the old points type design but it was just too damn old and the shaft bearings were shot. The advance springs were worn out too. Shaft play put my timing all over the place. New bearings were impossible to find and without a lathe and a friendly machinist it was way cheaper and easier to replace with 5k electronic. (from memory 7k also fits)

Talk nicely to the other guys/racers in the pits you'll probably find someone who can help out. Best of luck hope you get it sorted.

I had a similar issue about a hundred years ago with a rally car that I installed sidedraft dellorto carbs on. The engine had a waaaaaay lumpy cam and sounded rough at idle and up to about 4,000 rpm and was really grumpy above that. I assumed it was the cam. It never ran right consistently but from time to time would clear its lungs and absolutely haul right up to 9,000 rpm Now I changed EVERYTHING electrical, stripped down the carbs, checked fuel pressure and flow, took the bonnet off and went for a night drive looking for sparks, you name it I looked for everything. I just couldn't solve the problem. Anyway I sold it for a bargain price when I finally had enough and the guy who bought it called me up and said "hey I found your problem, the throttle linkage was only pulling one of the 2 sidedraft carbs open" How stupid did I feel? Very. Turns out the car was set up just right except for my simple linkage stuff up. (No he wouldn't sell it back to me!) When I was experiencing the car revving cleanly all the way to 9,000 rpm it was the vacuum reaching such a high level that it opened the butterflies on the carb that wasn't connected properly. This probably isn't your issue but I had looked at my linkage a thousand times and never noticed and of course as I had made it I assumed it was right. Have you had a second pair of eyes go over your setup? Couldn't hurt. Never assume anything. Hope this helps.

Thaks Rob, please spread the word we welcome out of town competitors. You missed a cracker day mate By running wide on exit without bars I mean oversteer. So, with front and rear bars, it was point and power and hitting the apex with nice oversteer though having to constantly adjust with the wheel to keep the front end pointing where I wanted it. Looking at rally footage of RWD cars, this seems to be about right? Or is this because i'm a pleb? I found after taking the bars off meant the front end was more obedient, however the rear then stepped out a lot more and the whole car ran wider on exit as it required a lot more lock to correct and in fact I hit the lock stops a couple of times and had to back off the power to catch the rear. Now while this is great for spectators and heaps of fun when you have lots of runoff it's not exactly safe given some venues we use have tree stumps, fences etc. I would think rally tyres will help with this (more grip) but once again this event stipulated road tyres only. Sidenote: The steering has no "self centering" effect, bars on or off is this a result of winding in more castor/camber or are AE's lacking this anyway?

OK, so the Lap dash yesterday was not only a heap of fun but also very surprising with the result. 1st run with sway bars on resulted in the quickest time. So I said to myself: self, you should have a crack at this today. So I did. 6 runs in total the first three sway bars on. Although the car was quick, it felt as though it was fighting me to stay on the racing line, so I tried sway bars off for the last three runs. It felt more controllable through the corners, however it developed a tendency to run wide on the exit of the corners but with plenty of runoff it wasn't a problem other than I may have cost myself a little time, even though the lap times were steadily decreasing. The track was very greasy in the morning and dried out over the course of the day, so in hindsight I probably should have taken the sway bars off first up to encourage a little more weight transfer and put them back on for the harder, grippier conditions in the afternoon. No matter, I entered the day with a view to experiment with suspension and a 3rd overall out of 31 entries I am more than happy with. I certainly wouldn't run without at least the front bar in the bush at this stage with it running wide although rally tyres would probably help this. More experimentation to go on here. Maybe it's my driving style or i just need more time in the car. Next event is a couple of months away. Another grass khanacross. I'll try bars on and off for that and see what happens. :2thumbs:

:paperbag: Umm, sorry to disappoint Rob. Yeah we've had some drama's not least of all the amount of events washed out or cancelled by rain and a broken website but all good now. The website is the best place to get info. Supp regs are here at www.coffscarclub.com.au and contact details for the relevant people also. We don't have a home track unfortunately (although we are working on that) so events move around depending on who has been kind enough to loan/rent us a venue This Sunday's event is not a rallysprint (i wish!!) but a dirt lap dash. Course is approx 1klm with a sort of kidney shape layout and surface is dirt/gravel. Held on the Coffs motorcycle club flat track. A good shakedown for the new setup I reckon. Come down if you want it's a good fun day with good spectator viewing and facilities. =) Just bring some WARM clothes... Please PM me if you need more info i'd like to keep this thread on track if that's ok. Yep, that's what I reckon too! Corolla + 4AG + locker = FUN!!!! :thumbsup:

OK, camber plates in. A bit of fecking around to make them fit, and more work to do before i'm happy with them but for now they'll do. Welded the bog warmer also. What a difference! The car is much more responsive in the front and with the locked diff it's much more flickable and predictable. Low speed understeer seems to be fixed - although I was on bitumen for my "test session". Yet to see how she goes on gravel. Also now does awesome doughnuts... turns on the front inside wheel and whizzes around at amazing speed... I'm sure this will come in handy in motorkhana at some stage My only gripe is I have lost steering feel from neutral position to about 1/4 turn in each direction where it then gets quite heavy. I suspect i've dialed in a little too much camber and will back it off a bit. Dirt lap dash this Sunday at Coffs Harbour, will have a play with settings and try the sway bars on and off.

Sounds good unfortunately no rallies for me this year unless I can "scratch me happy". Plan on a couple of S1 rallysprints (no cage req) this year at Nabiac to see how the old girl goes. Cage next year if I can persuade a certain mate to help and then possibly a club rally. All depends on budget and time but plenty of khana in between. Camber plates should arrive today... Fitting and testing with cig locker Saturday :2thumbs:

Worth some thought. A much better option to secure the damper would be to weld a threaded collar to the outside top of the strut tower (a bit of your coilover tube would do), and make a threaded cap with female thread and hole/shaft seal drilled/fitted. If you're desperate i'm sure there would be some galvanised water pipe and fittings laying around the woolshed... :jason:

Ride height is high enough at the moment... Would I not be better off shortening the strut leg and fitting a shorter body insert with a long enough shaft to give me full damping on the downstroke if I was to go this way? Rob, i'm working with what I have at the moment including the shiny new king springs that I had made after researching rally forums. The XT130 struts that I have to go in will probably end up as coilover if I can't make this setup work. I have ordered some camber plates should be in my hands next week. Mate's workshop time booked next weekend to fit these and weld the diff. While its on the lift, i'll play with the front end geometry and see how we go. Not in it for sheep stations, so I can afford to take my time and play around between events. I enjoy the tinkering tyo be honest.

If I weld the spring perch as per above, this will increase ride height?